Source for Devoe Bar Rust 233H

[jknight611]

Anyone have a source for Devoe Bar Rust 233H, the link James provided seems to be out of service. I am building 2 30 gallon water tanks, that have 2 layers of 1708 glass/epoxy and I want the additional protection of a good coating (white). I have googled until, and I find several vendors of Bar Rust 235 but I want to rely on Jame’s expertise.

Thanks
Jay

[atomvoyager]

I no longer have a source for 233H and don't know about suitability of 235 but I recently contacted another tank coating supplier who suggested using Interline 975P. There may be other products out there suitable for potable water but the expense to get them certified is too much for them to bother.

Contact:
John Carson
Account Executive
Marine and Protective Coatings

843-693-9412
john.carson@akzonobel.com

www.akzonobel.com

[jknight611]

Thanks much, appreciate it. I found an older MSDS that indicated that Sherwin Williams Tile Clad was acceptable for potable water. Not on the new MSDS. And the local Sherwin Williams dealer cut me a deal on the paint when I told him I am building a boat, win/win! I appreciate your site James thanks for the support.

[atomvoyager]

Thanks for the info on Tile Clad. Looks like it comes in a 2 gal kit. That's probably enough to do 3-4 tanks but you can use the leftover for coating bilge or lockers. I've read that any epoxy coating used for water tanks should be mixed perfectly accurately or 1-2% resin rich since the toxic part that can leech out is mainly uncatalyzed hardener due to inaccurate mix with excess hardener. It would be interesting to talk to an expert in manufacturing epoxy tank coatings to find out if there is some important difference between them or if most 100% solids types are inert and safe for drinking water. West System used to recommend their standard epoxy for tanks with a resin rich mix advised but stopped recommending it for legal purposes. Also, the charcoal water filters I use take out any epoxy taste and I wonder if they also would remove any harmful chemicals.

Let us know how Tile Clad works out for you and how easy it was to apply, how bad the odor was and how long it lasted. I've found it best to let the coatings cure several days before assembling the lid. I'm assuming two coats is sufficient.

[atomvoyager]

I just had a long talk with tech support at my regular epoxy/fiberglass products supplier uscomposites.com . He recommended to use their 635 Epoxy Resin System for fiberglass tank construction and then for final inside water tank coating use any 100% solids, solvent-free epoxy coating as they will be non-toxic and suitable for potable use, such as their 150 Thick Epoxy System. Apply 2 coats 150 thick epoxy mixed with 3-1 medium cure hardener. If you use other types of slow or fast cure ratio hardeners they will not give best results. If your temps are too cold then warm the resin before applying and use space heater to cure. You will need to clean very well after cure with WARM soapy water. Epoxy resin is acid based so do not clean with alcohol or acetone. Use charcoal filter in line to ensure contaminants are captured.

It is not certified for potable water so they can't legally claim that but that is just a typical liability issue. If you were still really concerned about any health hazard you could have a water sample analyzed. These are amber colored coatings and I'm not sure if adding color tint is suitable for potable use so I won't be doing that but if needing a solid color then you can use a white base coat such as Total Boat Total Protect before applying the clear coats.

[jknight611]

Thanks James, I appreciate it. Tile Clad HS is a high solids epoxy, it went on easy, coverage is very good. I have 2 water tanks each calculated to be 50 gallons with a mid tank baffle. 2 FULL coats of the TileClad HS (and I mean full coats) used about 1/2 gallon of the 2 gallon kit. It flows out very nicely to a nice smooth surface which I hope will prevent funk from attaching itself to the inside of the water tank. After 3 days cure time I couldn’t feel anything like blush. I still wiped the inside of the tank with clean clothes and vinegar. Before I put the tanks in service I will flush them well with as hot water as I can roust up.
All considered, quite happy with Sherwin Williams Tile Clad HS for my water tank coating although the data sheets don’t indicate that it is acceptable for potable water .

PS, Oder wasn’t terribly bad, mostly gone in 6-8 hours.

[atomvoyager]

Thanks for the update and good to hear it was successful.