Adding a Removable Forestay

[Vince124]

Looking to add a removable inner forestay mainly for a storm jib; I’m avoiding the use of a sleeve-type storm jib around the furled headsail if I can help it. The plan is to run the forestay from the mast down to the deck approximately 24” aft of the furler using a heavy folding padeye or U-bolt with appropriate backing. The chain pipe/anchor prevents a closer attachment
1. I’m hoping to get some recommendations on what type of tensioning attachment others have used to attach the removable forestay to the deck.
2. I see two attachment possibilities at the mast: (A.) Attach the inner forestay on the mast itself using tangs (preferred method), keeping the removable forestay parallel with the main forestay, which would bring the top of the removable forestay a few feet down from the top of the mast. Any recommendations on hardware or other type of attachment? (B.) The masthead has two slots with pins forward of the mast. Currently the main forestay is pinned in the aft slot, while the forward slot has a spare/spinnaker halyard. If I move the main forestay to the forward slot (turnbuckle threads should be able to accommodate), I could pin the inner forestay in the aft slot. This seems less preferable, as the headsail will likely contact the removable forestay even when pulled back in its “stored” position.

[atomvoyager]

Here's a link to a discussion of inner stay tensioning devices:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=6438&p=52899&hilit=solent#p52899

I would keep the headstay and spinn halyard where they are and add your solent stay to a mast hound within about 2 feet of the top of the mast so that the backstay will support the load. You don't need to have the solent stay exactly parallel to the headstay. Ask a rigging supplier for a suitable mast hound.

[Vince124]

Thanks. I'm not sure how I missed that post, but it's exactly what I need.

[Vince124]

Here's a link to a discussion of inner stay tensioning devices:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=6438&p=52899&hilit=solent#p52899

I would keep the headstay and spinn halyard where they are and add your solent stay to a mast hound within about 2 feet of the top of the mast so that the backstay will support the load. You don't need to have the solent stay exactly parallel to the headstay. Ask a rigging supplier for a suitable mast hound.

Other than a backing block, did you find it necessary to further reinforce the padeye on deck? I know some will attach a chain plate to the chain locker bulkhead.

[atomvoyager]

Each situation is different. It depends on how close the deck pad eye is to the chain locker bulkhead and how strong that is attached to the deck, how stiff is the deck and how much unsupported area it has in the region of the pad eye, how big the boat is and how large of a sail will be on the inner stay and how large of a backing plate block you can use. If in doubt then yes you should attempt to tie the load into the bulkhead or hull and there are various ways to do that. Can you attach a photo or sketch with dimensions of the pad eye in relation to sides of hull and chain locker bulkhead or describe it?

[Vince124]

Each situation is different. It depends on how close the deck pad eye is to the chain locker bulkhead and how strong that is attached to the deck, how stiff is the deck and how much unsupported area it has in the region of the pad eye, how big the boat is and how large of a sail will be on the inner stay and how large of a backing plate block you can use. If in doubt then yes you should attempt to tie the load into the bulkhead or hull and there are various ways to do that. Can you attach a photo or sketch with dimensions of the pad eye in relation to sides of hull and chain locker bulkhead or describe it?

James- The boat is 26’, the storm jib is 57 square feet and if it matters, the mast is approximately 32.5’ and the “I” measurement is 10’. In the picture below, the pad eye is just behind the chain tensioner and is directly above the chain locker bulkhead. The bulkhead screws into a thin fiberglass flange , while the cored deck is quite stiff with 3/8 plywood and some pretty beef glass for the top layer. I was thinking to install a 6” x 8” G10 backing block rather than mess with the bulkhead.

[atomvoyager]

Since the bulkhead is close to the pad eye I would just use the G10 plate as you described and the bulkhead will pick up any potential deflection load. It's most likely strong enough as is but if unsure about the strength of the bulkhead to deck bolted joint you can stiffen it with fiberglass or make an L-shaped backing plate out of 2 pieces of G10 fiberglassed together that bolts thru pad eye bolts and bulkhead. Or get a local metal fab shop to weld it together out of 3/16" stainless or 1/4" aluminum.

[Vince124]

Thanks. I'm going with my original plan of just using a simple backing block.