Introducing Katie-J

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Thu Feb 03, 2022 10:59 am

thanks for the tips Atomvoyager.

to be honest i think i went i bit crazy with the whole fairing thing....
the fibreglass was indeed somewhat porous some of it the primer was able to cover and some dont.
i will follow your advice and start slow with 80 grit, on a orbital to remove the excess first.
i do have 100 grit sandpaper to stick on a long board, so i guess that would be next step.

will keep you guys posted as always

cheers!!

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Fri Feb 04, 2022 7:01 am

about 6 hours worth of sanding and almost all of portside is machine sanded to 80 grit.
looks and feel good to the touch

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Tue Feb 08, 2022 3:38 am

work in progress

there still some material that has to come out but im almost there
my plan is to get a normal household PVC pipe that is slightly larger than the stern tube, insert it into that cavity and then completely fill everything with slightly thickened epoxy and a layer of cloth in top to smooth it out

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Fri Feb 18, 2022 9:17 am

finally got everything out

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Fri Feb 18, 2022 9:18 am

because the mixing ratio is 1:1 :5-25% (primer:converter: reducer) i was able to apply 2 coats at 2.5 litres. whereas with the protective primer i was able to stretch it to one full coat, but still missing the jack stands areas. it was that much thicker.
waited 3 hours between coats as recommended by alexseal

first coat

second coat

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Fri Feb 18, 2022 9:20 am

stainless steel A frame which basically turns the boat from a deck stepped to a keel stepped mast one
im almost certainly not going to reinstall this as i am working in a substitute version which will be lighter and less intrusive

Pionier · Post by **Pionier** » Mon Feb 21, 2022 12:43 pm

When i am at the boat again I will make a picture of our mast step reinforcement. We have to do it again because it wasn't done properly, but we think we need to reinforce it a bit different. When you use a straight beam, only the middle beam is support and the 2 side beams (arrows in the picture) seems to float. And don't touch the beam. We think they should be supported too!

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Fri Feb 25, 2022 7:36 am

Hi Pioner

thanks for your post!
i agree with you, those 3 struts should be supported as well. in my case the portside one was completely rotten due to water intrusion. the center and stb werent bad, but i cut them as well.

im thinking of getting 3 struts running longitudinally, 6mm thick stainless, which will then be supported atwartships. but first im going to glass and laminate some G10 to flatten out everything as there is a slight upwards bow in the molding.

please post more photos of your boat!!

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Fri Feb 25, 2022 7:42 am

new cockpit drains glassed in.
after much thought and mental notes i still managed to glass the portside cockpit drain the wrong way!
the port side drain is a T because the galley drain will connect therein the future. the stb side one is a straight one

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Fri Feb 25, 2022 7:45 am

stern tube.......post?!

decided to use a normal pvc pipe to create an oversized channel for the stern tube.
then poured thickened epoxy to lock it in.
little did i know that 2 leaks would develop causing me to lose 2/3 of that epoxy, but its all good now (final photo to come)

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Fri Feb 25, 2022 7:47 am

exhaust and bilge pumps thru hull glassed into transom.

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Fri Feb 25, 2022 7:50 am

got around to cut that 30 mm thick G10 to make the backing plates for the chainplates and epoxy them in today.
will be laminating a few layers of biaxial on top (3-4 layers should be enough i think)

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Fri Feb 25, 2022 7:53 am

decided to patch up some openings i had on bulkheads/partitions with G10

and while that was curing, i thought the jammers should go, so off they went.
need to fill those holes for the coming wet season

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Sat Feb 26, 2022 8:49 am

moved the jackstands today for the first time, so much happened since Novemberf!!
gave a 40 grit grind on the spots and proceeded to fairing

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Sat Feb 26, 2022 8:52 am

started going thru the rudder also.
took me an hour to split it in 2 halves.
was expecting to be in way worse condition that it is, but glad im replacing the whole thing

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Sun Feb 27, 2022 7:15 am

patching up the galley bulkhead

and port side on the main bulkhead.

stb aft babystay chainplate backplate

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Sun Mar 06, 2022 8:57 am

painting the topsides

got 2 coats on today.
didnt get any close up photos, but there is a ton of orange peel to be dealt with upon sanding.
as i was applying the first coat it took me awhile to see the runs so i made a decision to go back and eliminate them, knowing i was trading one evil for another.
not sure if im making the same decision next time.
the paint was actually flowing out nicely and performing as i was expecting so i can attest to what alexseal promises.

obviously the second coat took on the surface imperfections of the first one and couldnt compensate for it (nor was i expecting it to)

aniway the whole thing was always going to be sanded with 400 grit before applying more coats.

the paint goes a long way.
one coat : both sides of the hull using 500 ml of paint, 250 ml converter, 225 ml reducer (reduced at 30%) and had a surplus of around 100 ml in the end.

oh and almost forgot.....effing mosquitos!

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Sun Mar 27, 2022 7:34 am

painting is done!!!

this is the so called "show coat"
not bad for a first timer i would say
got way more runs that i had on previous coats but it will be wet sanded to 1000 grit, then to 1500 grit, then buffed and polished, so im expecting to get most of that out.

i am really really happy with the end result and will recommend these paints. i can totally see a more experienced person avoiding pretty much all the runs i had and ending up with a perfect finish.

some people went by the boat and were amazed it was done with a roller. all of them assumed it was a spray job.

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Sun Mar 27, 2022 7:48 am

bilge work/prep for keel assembly

in the meantime im having the bilge ready to receive the keel back.
ive glass a bilge partition, slightly bigger than the original, to better accommodate the bilge pump to be installed later

now was the time to get the bilge tank skin moulded, so i did just that. got the shittiest gaff tape i could find (the brown stuff you see) taped it to the bilge, cut the biaxial and laminated 2 layers with epoxy.

next day it was solid enough to be released, it did fight a little but it came out alright in the end

the idea is to make 3 extra tanks out of this skin: 1 for water, 2 for extra diesel.
i will be laminating more biaxial as well as glassing in the aft and fwd ends and baffles. the plan is to get everything very smooth on the outside edges so that, in a hurry, i can throw the tanks (specially the water one) into the dinghy or raft without worrying about puncturing it.

i opted to glass the skin now because not having the bolts protuding would make the process easier. i can now cut and glass accounting for them

after the skin removal i applied an water tank epoxy liner paint to the bilge. it is the same stuff i will be using on my integral water tank, and since it cures to hard a surface i think it will perform great. will be doing a second coat tomorrow.

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Sun Mar 27, 2022 7:54 am

also got the cutlass bearing pressed into the stern tube

got the holes enlarged to accommodate for the new nuts

placed the stern tube in position (already with the nuts epoxied in but still gelling so that they will set in the correct position)
and applied more thickened epoxy to better bed the stern tube when the time comes to apply sikaflex.
tomorrow will tell how this went

i will be laminating a couple of layers of cloth to better lock the nuts inside.

Post by **CapnK** » Sun Mar 27, 2022 2:57 pm

You are getting a lot of work done, and it's looking nice. That finish on the paint is just 'Wow!". Looks like you are getting close to start building the interior - during the rainy season?

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Mon Mar 28, 2022 5:33 am

hi!

i wish i could work during the rainy season but its too hot inside the boat.
for now the plan is to splash mid/end of next month., then wait until october and get it out again.
we have typhoons in Macau that´s why i have to get it back

i will get some templates done to speed up the furniture building next season since im stripping the deck back to bare fibreglass and painting them as i did the topsides. While its not a bigger area there is a lot more shaping to do.....by hand hehehe. fun dusty times ahead!

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Mon Mar 28, 2022 5:36 am

glassed in the backing plates for the marelon thru hulls

then painted them with the epoxy lining paint

and had a bit of paint left so i couldnt let it go to waste, and gave a quick and dirty coat on the bilge skin tank

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Mon Mar 28, 2022 5:37 am

and im calling this a success!
perfect substrate for a bit of sikaflex goo to do its job and prevent water going in

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Tue Mar 29, 2022 11:06 am

time to install the new keel bolts
got this great antiseize from Loctite which i applied liberally

aft bolts

fwd bolts
i successfully managed to tap a new thread for a 19mm bolt. it was actually quite easy and straightforward, but its clearly visible that the bolt has a slight foward tilt. side to side has no issues.

general view of all the bolts
they still need to be trimmed to final lenght

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Sat Apr 02, 2022 5:26 am

Keel day!!

April 2nd, 2022, the day the keel went back on.

keel bolts trimmed to size

in the meantime the crane guy arrived and we did a dry run, making sure everything when where it was supposed.
just before the first try we decided to persuade that fwd bolt that had a bit of tilt: found a long enough pipe, protected the thread and made it go vertical like it should.

during the dry fit, we saw that the fwd bolt hole could be improved as well as the one for 3rd fwd bolt and they were slightly enlarged from the inside with a drill bit.

we were happy with it and then let the boat hanging just above the keel but already with the bolts inside the holes. the keel's weight help maintaining the hull in the right position.

we then squeeze 5 cans of 4200 onto that top surface
i am the dirty guy on the left

by now i was inside the boat with all the tools needed.
the hull was lowered onto the keel and i proceeded to install the washers and nuts. then the squeeze out begun and i had the guys looking after it on the outside. a lot came out so, im completely sure that no area was starved of 4200

fwd keel bolts:
note the slightly bigger G10 washer below the metal one
it seems i misplaced the small G10 washers for the half inch bolts, so those blue gloves are my attempt to create a barrier between the metal washers and the 4200 squeeze out that came up thru the hole, so that when i find them i only have to undo the nut and place everything in order

aft keel bolts

eveything looks great and very very solid.
i must say im quite happy to have done this job, looking at these new bolts makes it all worth and really increases the confidence for the whole boat. i can safely say that the keel isnt going anywhere!

i will return tomorrow and tighten the nuts again after the 4200 had almost a day to cure.
i will then find a torque wrench and torque the bolts closer to launch date

back where it belongs!

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Tue Apr 05, 2022 7:49 am

ball valves install

got the 3 of them done, looks and feels solid
the cockpit now drains to the sea as it should!

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Tue Apr 05, 2022 7:57 am

bilge tank skin fitting after making holes to accomodate for the bolts

easy task, just got a hole saw of appropriate size and punched it through

and it fits!!

having the holes done and the tanks skin fitted made me realize that i will, most likely, end up with 5 smaller individual tanks.
and the reason is weight, i can see someone getting injured in a stupid, and totally avoidable way, by lugging some diesel/ water to and fro the cockpit and im not having that. it will come with a price: more holes and potential leak sources, and im not happy about it but getting injured is worst, in my book.

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Tue Apr 05, 2022 8:00 am

laminating the hull-keel joint

sanded some of the excess 4200 and left some of it as fairing to be completely honest lol.
then glassed over it.
it look way better than that 2-inch-wide-mickey-mouse-joke-of-a-lamination, that was there thru habit and failed long ago.

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Thu Apr 07, 2022 10:18 pm

Hi all

question for the more diesel engine knowledgeable;

Is there any reason for me to not tap in a oil drain plug/tap in the oil sump?
My engine is a yanmar 2GM20

i will have access to the sump and i just think that having a oil tap and a collecting oil pan makes for an easier and more effective (given that i would tap the hole in the aft section of the sump, thus taking advantage of the engine pitch to drain it) oil change. it also saves me having to install those pumps which to my mind is another thing to potentially break.
the smaller pumps only moves the oil from one location to another, the bigger pumps do collect the oil inside but they make for a bulky item that i really want to avoid.

Thanks!

YouTube · Post by **atomvoyager** » Sat Apr 09, 2022 9:19 am

I haven't done this but heard from others that adding a plug works assuming you have space under the pan for a drain container. If not, apparently you can attach a hose with petcock to the plug and use an extractor pump as others have described in the thread below:
https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f5 ... 644-2.html

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Sun Apr 10, 2022 7:39 am

Hi atomvoyager

My doubts stemmed from the fact that there might be some reason stopping the original manufacturer from doing it, though i couldnt see why, after all its an oil sump just like any other.

I will install the drain it as i was thinking of, since im in a mold making mood, to actually mold a small removable container to that spot on the bilge, that way i have something i can use and it has is own unique storage place, out of the way.

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Sun Apr 10, 2022 8:04 am

polishing

a friend came over to lend a hand and give me some visual references for a finished look.
we did a small window at 1000 grit, then 1500 grit, then cutting compound and finally the finish product.

i didnt took any photos of that test (didnt remember to) but to be honest i was expecting a bigger glare at the end. dont get me wrong i think it is going to look good and my friend was happy about it (he is a bike mechanic/builder so he is used to polish things) its just that the final glare given by the paint its real good.

at the same time i could easily see that the reflection gains a superior definition, kinda like a better resolution print if that makes sense.

as i mentioned before, i had quite a number of runs and other imperfections in the final result, most of them will be flatten out by the 1000 and 1500 grit.

the following is an example of that, the first photo is the painting end result, the second shows the flattening process after one pass at 1000 grit

after one pass

as you can see one pass is not enough which meant i had to go back and redo it a couple more times, which in turn led to some paint beind sanded and exposing the primer

there is a few patches like this unfortunately. i guess i will live with it for a few years until i forget how tedious and hard it is to sand a hull and do it again! the good thing is that one can sand the last layer and put more coats on.

one of the biggest takeaways about this process is longboarding. i didnt do it, because im a bit tight on time and also because it is hardwork, but i can now see how longboarding the whole thing would have improved pretty much all imperfections and laid the foundation to an even better finish.

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Sun Apr 10, 2022 8:15 am

since i had my friend coming to help out and i really wanted to mark the waterline i had to cheat a bit.

i waited for sunset set the laser and applied the tape following the line. (sorry no photos of that)
next morning i was thinking: well, i'll go nowehere with this tape, given that with the polishing i will lose track of it even if a use a sharpie, but i didnt want to laser it again (despite the fact that there is a slight difference between port and stb but no one will notice it)

with the tape in place i sanded with 80 grit just enough to make a line and without destroying the tape - thus damaging the paint. it came out nice and i was able to remove it and have a good reference to apply it again

as you can see i painted too low on the blue and end up sanding quite a bit of it. i had lost track of the original waterline. could have saved some time and paint!

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Sun Apr 10, 2022 8:19 am

this is the result so far
all we've done so far is apply cutting compound, next weekend we will apply the finish one.

waterline painted with 2 coats of primer and you can also see the difference between cutting compound and the 1500 grit stages

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Wed Apr 13, 2022 8:44 pm

hi all
the supplier mixed up the size of my transducer (boat speed, log, etc) which means i have a 2 inch hole in the boat i have to close, until i get it out again.

was thinking laminating a patch over it (4 layers of glass), something i can easily dril with a hole saw.
you fellas think that would be enough? i would like to refrain from glassing a G10 cap on top, which might be somewhat difficult to remove in the future.

the hole is 1 foot and a half below the waterline

YouTube · Post by **atomvoyager** » Thu Apr 14, 2022 9:41 am

I don't follow what you mean by " i have a 2 inch hole in the boat i have to close, until i get it out again." Does that mean you just need a slightly smaller hole in the same location or something to do with launching the boat without totally filling the hole and then at next haulout redrilling it smaller or something else? Anyway, yes four layers of something thick like 1708 is enough if the bonded area extends far enough for a large enough contact area.

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Thu Apr 14, 2022 9:49 am

hi atomvoyager

i was refering to the 2 inch diameter hole on the photo which will accomodate the log transducer.
my supplier shipped me the shorty version of the tranducer so i cant use that. lead time for replacement is going to be at least a month and i want to splash on the 23rd.

so i do have that hole to plug until i haul the boat out again (that what i meant by "until i get it out again").
the biaxial i use isnt 1708, its plain 400 gr biaxial cloth so maybe a few more layers will be needed i guess

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Fri Apr 15, 2022 12:17 am

waterline and AF painting on std side

still need to relocate the stands, apply barrier coat and AF on those spots.
portside still needs barrier coat and AF

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Sat Apr 16, 2022 3:33 am

decided to epoxy a 6mm G10 washer to close the transducer hole no glassing on top. this way i need only to crack it open with a chisel
will pour some epoxy from the inside just to bulletproof the solution and wait for the next haul to open and install the gear

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Sat Apr 16, 2022 3:35 am

also took the chance to prime (barrier coat) portside side

and relocate the stands on starboard

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Sun Apr 17, 2022 8:53 am

installing the shaft seal

dry fit of a Lasdrop Gen II unit onto the prop shaft
it was quite easy because i can insert the seal thru the tapered end making things much smoother and less worrying about potential damage to the seals.

yes, the transmission shaft coupler looks horrible, it will be replaced next season.

by now i had already tested the hose end of the seal on the stern tube and found it to have a bit of a gap.
i decided to get a bike air chamber cut a section and wrap it around the tube

i thought everyting was in order and then installed the whole thing. went back out to see the shaft and was happy that i had enough of it out to fit the prop. it was then i realized i didnt account for the anode!
after a couple of measurements i determined i had to cut 60mm off of the hose

everything is very tight, as in im working with very tight tolerances but i got it installed

lasdrop recommends pressing the spring seal onto the hose end by about 6 mm and i got just that as you can see from the next photo where a 6 mm gap is visible between the spring seal and the transmission coupler (before pressing the seal it was just flushed with the coupler)

on the wet end of things i still had to trim the anode a few mm to get everything in place without buttjoining pieces together

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Sun Apr 17, 2022 8:58 am

this is a teaser for whats to come

it is a male mold plug to accommodate the top end of the keel bolts
i bought a simply plastic bowl, used a hole saw , puched a hole in the middle and the used another plastic cut to get it to its final height, araldite the 2 together for a quick job.

lets see how it goes for glassing around those tight corners....

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Wed Apr 20, 2022 7:54 am

bilge tank build

got some time today to check on the glassing on the bilge tank
came out pretty good i reckon.
not sure if i can reuse the same template as the gaff tape having some crinkling texture to it didnt made for a seamless detachment from the glass and i had to pry it out forcefully with a flat screw driver

outside view

inside view

view with tank installed

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Tue Apr 26, 2022 12:16 am

back on the drink

and ready for rainy season

no leaks whatsoever so it was a really smooth process

Post by **CapnK** » Fri Apr 29, 2022 8:40 am

CONGRATS!!!

...and she is looking very fine...

Hope you figured out the keel bolt molds, that seems a good idea. My hopefully not-my-Islander much longer has a shallow bilge and exposed bolts, and while they are in great shape, keeping them dry is a non-stop job. I'd thought of making individual cup-dams using PVC pipe just to keep bilgewater off the bolts themselves. Your skin is an even better 'fix'!

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Sat Apr 30, 2022 5:11 am

building pvc pipe dams around the bolts was actually my first thought as it also was building permanent tanks, it woulda ve been easier i guess, but then i would have to bring fuel hoses inside the cabin and diesel being what it is i decided that any spill would mean more work, smell, and headaches than a not-so-easier- initially speaking,- project.

This way i can fully empty the bilge and do whatever work needs doing (cant really foresee what it would be apart from the bolts but aniway). Its also easier to inspect and clean those tanks ashore than in situ.

it also affords some flexibility for potential future owners, as they might decide not having the tanks and keep the space for other things.

it was a fast 5 month period getting all this done and im taking a week off boat projects, i need to get a smaller tent (like a pop up thingy) to enable me working thru my days off on projects like the tank, rebuilding the engine, templating and cutting the furniture, rebuilding the rudder, etc

would really love to have Katie J sailing a year from now, and i think its possible, but not in a completely finished fashion, that will take an extra season.

Post by **CapnK** » Mon May 02, 2022 12:22 pm

Looked backed thru the thread and now I think I fully understand that you bilge tank as-is will be cut up, turning it into 5 smaller tanks - correct?

A thought on the bolt/nut molds - I've read of some people using AquaNet brand hair spray as a mold release agent. Maybe a dose or two of that over top of the tape, prior to layup might help...?

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Mon May 02, 2022 4:50 pm

yes, the tank will be divided into smaller compartments for easier transport

well im never going to look for hair spray the same way! im not sure i can find that particular brand where i live, but im sure something comparable must be available. i will give it a try

pmnfernando · Post by **pmnfernando** » Fri May 06, 2022 1:59 am

getting the synthetic rigging readied for the future

It is not Dyneema, it is Vectran which is a LCP, or liquid crystal polymer. Not so UV resistant as Dyneema, but more resistant to abrasion.
The splice used was a Brummel Lock.

The terminals are Bluewave stainless. Thought about the same in aluminium, but costs.....

The stays will be covered with a sheath from parallell cord ropes (used in rope access, work at height). and possibly with a Marlow dyneema sheath on top.

Since this type of fibre is not commonly used, i will be having a small stay, tied to the guardrail at all times, built and protected just like the ones used on the standing rigging so i can better inspect and determine the decay rate.