Triton outboard well

[wenqiangwang]

Hi James, I am in the middle of my outboard well construction on my Triton. I am trying to use this thread to ask questions about the well and hopefully can help other people that will do the same thing in the future.

My first question is about mainsheep rigging. Once the outboard well is cut, how to rig the main sheet? Do you have brands and model numbers of the blocks you used on Atom?

Thanks in advance.

[atomvoyager]

The three point end of boom sheeting tackle I use is from Garhauer.com:
One DOUBLE BLOCK WITH SHACKLE 30-17 US (on the boom).
One 30-19 US SINGLE STAND-UP SWIVEL BLOCK (on stbd side of deck. This one is not in their online catalog but you can phone them for it).
One MS-SJ SWIVEL JAM WITH DECK MOUNT WITH 30-14 US SINGLE BLOCK WITH BECKET MOUNTED TO IT (on port side of deck. This one you also need to phone for).
I mount the blocks on 1.5" high teak blocks to get better clearance over motor lid and lifelines. The main sheet is 3/8" double braid polyester so you should be able to go down in size from 30 series to 27 or 25 series to save money since both of those are strong enough and listed as accepting max 3/8 line. But the tighter fit may mean more friction and jamming in some situations where you are pulling in fast lots of slack line.

[wenqiangwang]

Thank you, James. The information is quite helpful!

[wenqiangwang]

Hi James, when you have a chance, could you tell me how to close the shaft hole? I plan to haul out my boat soon. Since I now go with the outboard well design, I don't need the shaft anymore. Could you give me a pointer on how to close the shaft hole?

Thanks,
Wenqiang

[atomvoyager]

After removing the prop shaft and shaft tube I cut a wood plug to fit in the outside of the shaft hole and then add layers of plywood with thickened epoxy followed by one layer of fiberglass and fairing compound. I usually ignore the inside of the shaft hole since it is well sealed from outside but you can glass that over also. If the shaft tube is glassed in or otherwise difficult to remove I leave it in place and cut it off flush on the outside. You can see some of the work beginning at 2:10 in this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S6h-P_IZZn0

[wenqiangwang]

Thanks James. Sounds a good idea.

[wenqiangwang]

Hi James,

A quick update. My boat projects is near the end for this summer (Here in north west, raining season is comming). I have finished the outboard well (the open one). Hauled out the boat, sealed the propeller shaft hole. Painted the bottom and topside.

There is still a lot of work to do. But I am satisfied with what has been done. Those cannot be the case without your help. Thanks again!

BTW, I am looking for a rolling furler for the boat. What's your recommendation?

Thanks.

[svMira]

I've got a Furlex and I'm not a fan. The closed body with internal line compression 'wings' and barely large enough drum size don't seem like good ideas. The guide at the top of the extrusion doesn't look like it ever had a chance of working in the long term. Mine is old and haven't had a new one, and mine looks like it had a few installation/repair anomalies (the extrusions were installed in an odd order), so this is a critique on a single used unit with little experience, but I'd go for something else next round personally.

[atomvoyager]

She looks great. Congratulations. I use a Harken MKIV UNit 0 on my Triton with a 7/32" headstay. They are sized according to headstay diameter. If you use 1/4" wire then you need the more expensive Unit 1. I also generally use the MKIV on the boats I refit and like the features, performance and quality. I have long link plates on mine but the Harken ones are pricey and maybe longer than you need so you can instead order an extra toggle for the bottom for better anchor clearance.

[wenqiangwang]

Thanks for your quick reply, Marvin and James! I think Furler will be a critical and pricey component on my boat. I will do some more research.