Pearson Ensign Restoration

seasailor55 · Post by **seasailor55** » Thu Feb 16, 2012 2:57 pm

Posting pictures of an ongoing restoration project for a youth sailing program. 1965 Pearson Ensign.

seasailor55 · Post by **seasailor55** » Thu Feb 16, 2012 3:15 pm

Another picture. 1965 Pearson Ensign

hebert01 · Post by **hebert01** » Thu Feb 16, 2012 7:40 pm

I'll be interested to follow this along. Did e boat come with the transom cut away and replaced with wood?

Hirilondë · Post by **Hirilondë** » Thu Feb 16, 2012 11:51 pm

It looks like they found a boat so far gone it isn't worth the effort to salvage.

CalebD · Post by **CalebD** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 1:47 am

Hirilondë wrote:It looks like they found a boat so far gone it isn't worth the effort to salvage.

Tsk, tsk Hirilonde.
This is for a youth sailing program and maybe the kids get a chance to work on the boats as well.
I'm not an expert on Ensign's but there is a pretty big fleet of active racers and sailors at my club. They seem to be a good platform for learning a sloop rig that are actually safer then some of the more sporty dinghies that are often used.
That said, a 1965 hull probably was made with polyester resin. Why the transom shows as all wood is a reasonable question. Perhaps various motor mounts degraded the 'glass' exterior. It is easy enough to slather some epoxy and cloth over the transom and call it mostly done. The fore deck needs to be rebuilt as well as the cockpit.
A bit of work? Yup, but it can be done.
Hopefully it will be.

Hirilondë · Post by **Hirilondë** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:52 am

I guess it all depends on what the point of the exercise is. But for the life of me I can't see one here at all. There are so many boats in better shape selling for little or being given away that I just don't see the need for the expense of money and time that one will take. If they are teaching boat repair then they should start with realistic repairs to be made, not slathering epoxy over poorly made wooden transoms. And if the point is to get the kids out sailing then this route is completely ridiculous.

CalebD wrote:They seem to be a good platform for learning a sloop rig that are actually safer then some of the more sporty dinghies that are often used.

I couldn't disagree with you more. Dinghies are by far the best boats to learn sailing on. Sailing is a skill of feeling the forces, and no keel boat gives the same sensory experience as a tender dinghy. And tipping over is not particularly dangerous, quite the contrary, not teaching how to deal with a capsize is even more dangerous. Forced capsize should even be part of the teaching plan. They should go get some sloop rigged Dyer Dhow 12 1/2s, Blue Jays, or such if teaching sloop sailing. Or if it is just beginner sailing there are even smaller cheaper boats like the Optimist Pram, Dyer Dhow 9, Sea Dog, Tech Dinghy, etc., to choose from. I bet they could find some that were fixer/uppers if that is the best route.

Just because some one has a derelict Ensign does not mean that is what they have to use.

Crazer · Post by **Crazer** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 1:53 pm

To be clear, this restoration has been going on for a while. It is the subject of a long thread on the boat design forum. It initially started as an "improved Ensign" project, but then the owner decided to just proceed with restoring it as an Ensign. As far as I know he has obtained a new deck and is well along in the process and I have no doubt she will be beautiful when done. The thing that has to be understood is that there IS NO POINT when it comes to restoring an old sail boat. If you want something to sail, there are ten thousand affordable boats in sailing condition for every project boat out there. And it sure as hell isn't an investment. I've already put more into my boat then it'll ever be worth and I'm just getting started. So really we're all nuts, this guy just went a little bit further with it then most of us would. But doubtless it's about the experience for him more than anything.

I don't know anything about it being for a youth sailing program, but if that's true well that just proves my point. He wants to do it for the experience of having done it. That's all there is.

Here's the thread on boatdesign.net: http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/sailbo ... 74-15.html

seasailor55 · Post by **seasailor55** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 3:08 pm

Crazer is correct. It's been going on for awhile. I just thought that some folks on the forum might be interested to hear of the ressurection (so to speak) of a 47 year old classic. I'm certainly enjoying the rebuild, and with it's large cockpit, versatile sail plan, foam flotation and lockable cuddy it makes a nice keel boat trainer, to say nothing of the classic lines.

To answer some questions, a bit of history: The boat was donated to a 501c3 youth sailing program, complete with rig, sails, trailer, etc., but missing the factory deck and cabin. The transom was removed (don't ask me why!) and replaced with treated pine 2x12s. A donated original 1965 deck was obtained, complete with all hardware, mahogany coamings, and cockpit benches. The boat was gutted down to the hull and is in the process of being rebuilt. Our expenses have been minimal thanks to donated parts, and volunteer labor. When complete, it will join a pair of sailing dinghies, a pair of Hobie 16s, and a very nice fully equipped donated Cape Dory 22. Our students start with classroom training, move to the dinghies, then to the catamarans, and then to the keel boats, in an effort to get them familiar with different types of sailing. Part of the program is boat repair and maintenance, and the students have been involved in the planning and scheduling of workdays, obtaining information regarding Coast Guard required equipment, and performing restoration tasks, (they're finding out that there's a lot of bottom to sand on a 22' full keel boat!) etc.

Carl-A259 · Post by **Carl-A259** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:03 am

The more I look at the pictures I don't see how the replacement deck fits because that is not the Ensign style transom, something is way off there. I'm not talking about the wood, it's the shape.

seasailor55 · Post by **seasailor55** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 1:40 pm

Correct. The original transom was cut off at some point in the past, along with approximately 3-1/2" of the bottom rear of the hull (apparently to accommodate the straight 2x12 treated pine planks). A new transom is currently being mocked up for fabrication and fairing into the hull. The replacement transom will match the original one with crown and camber and the original hull configuration(including the missing 3-1/2") restored.

Crazer · Post by **Crazer** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 4:41 pm

seasailor55 wrote:Correct. The original transom was cut off at some point in the past, along with approximately 3-1/2" of the bottom rear of the hull (apparently to accommodate the straight 2x12 treated pine planks). A new transom is currently being mocked up for fabrication and fairing into the hull. The replacement transom will match the original one with crown and camber and the original hull configuration(including the missing 3-1/2") restored.

Glad to hear you decided to go that route. Someone fifty years further down the line will be grateful! Thanks for sharing this here, and do keep us updated. I've enjoyed watching things progress so far.

seasailor55 · Post by **seasailor55** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 8:48 pm

Thanks. The "improved Ensign" version was an attempt aimed at building a deck from scratch in lieu of the missing one. The decision to restore to original came when the factory deck was donated with all the hardware, and I feel it was the right one. I gave up trying to justify this whole project a good while ago, and we're plowing ahead one step at a time, thanks to some great advice and encouragement. A man from Georgia who is restoring a Pearson Electra sent us a box of original parts, including skene chocks, and rudder and tiller hardware. I keep the Ensign parked (moored?) where I can see it every time I drive up, and sometimes climb into the cockpit and just sit there planning the next phase. I have some pics of various stages of the process (some of them pretty discouraging at the time) and have tried to post them, but I get an error message stating that the files are too big. Maybe I can resize them.

Carl-A259 · Post by **Carl-A259** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:00 pm

If the scouts ever plan on class racing they will be glad you went this route. Wouldn't you rather just graft on an original stern section, I think it would be easier. Scott , Did the tiller parts ever arrive? Are you satisfied? Carl

Carl-A259 · Post by **Carl-A259** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:03 pm

Sorry, Scott, I didn't scroll down to the end of thread, I see you got the parts ,GREAT!!!!

seasailor55 · Post by **seasailor55** » Sun Feb 19, 2012 4:55 pm

I explored grafting on an original stern section, and if I had one I would. If there were another Ensign in my area, I'd approach the owner about letting me make a female mold off the rear of the hull. I even queried Ensign Spars as to the possibility of having a transom with about 4" of hull created in the original mold, when I contacted them regarding the laminate thickness of the original transoms. They gave me advice and suggestions on how to proceed with building onto what I have. And yes, I did get the parts and they're just what I need. I'll have to have our rudder shaft cut down, and a slot machined into it, as it's 72" long (13" too long) with no key way slot. Maybe it came from an Electra, who knows?

seasailor55 · Post by **seasailor55** » Thu Feb 23, 2012 4:58 pm

Here are some more pics of the early days of the '65 Ensign restoration process. Dirty nasty work, but it had to be done to make way for all new mast step supports, bulkheads, and v-berth. The old wood could be pulled out by hand, but the builders used plenty of resin, and it took a 4" angle grinder to remove it. Curious thing was, whenever we got into grinding down the the resin, a purple powder would appear. It looked and felt like blue carpenter's chalk. ????

Carl-A259 · Post by **Carl-A259** » Fri Feb 24, 2012 10:21 pm

It was carpenters chaulk, that's what they used to thicken epoxy for tabbing.

Carl-A259 · Post by **Carl-A259** » Fri Feb 24, 2012 10:25 pm

Scott, before your team starts measuring and installing bulkheads and fixtures , place the deck on even if it's only temporary so the the hull isn't distorted when glassing in. You sure don't want to end up with a deck that doesn't fit.

Carl-A259 · Post by **Carl-A259** » Sat Feb 25, 2012 10:02 pm

Scott , I have a stern section that could be grafted with as much of the hull as you need for this job. I would cut it off after you give me the measurement needed. I'll be home Sunday and Monday only. $75.00 and I'll ship COD.

seasailor55 · Post by **seasailor55** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 1:06 pm

Carl-A259 wrote:It was carpenters chaulk, that's what they used to thicken epoxy for tabbing.

I thought so, as the color didn't show up until I ground through the top coat of resin

Carl-A259 wrote:Scott, before your team starts measuring and installing bulkheads and fixtures , place the deck on even if it's only temporary so the the hull isn't distorted when glassing in. You sure don't want to end up with a deck that doesn't fit.

We have the deck in place (temporarily screwed) to ensure accurate bulkhead measurements, and to determine how much was cut off the hull.

Carl-A259 wrote:Scott , I have a stern section that could be grafted with as much of the hull as you need for this job. I would cut it off after you give me the measurement needed. I'll be home Sunday and Monday only. $75.00 and I'll ship COD.

Sounds good, as it would save me a lot of work by not having to form up and mold the new transom and hull section with flanges. I need 4" of hull attached to the transom to facilitate grafting it on.

seasailor55 · Post by **seasailor55** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 1:43 pm

More pictures of the Ensign including one showing the butchered transom as is. Soon to be remedied, I hope. The rudder and shaft have been removed, as the shaft (post) is too long and would not allow the deck to sit flush on the hull. It will be cut down to fit the deck and cockpit.

seasailor55 · Post by **seasailor55** » Wed Feb 29, 2012 1:42 pm

A few pics of our donated Cape Dory 22. Another Alberg design with classic lines. It came to us complete with trailer, rig sails, and boxes of spares. Repairs needed included: freeing and greasing frozen seacocks, refinishing all exterior teak, repairing, filling, and sanding deck scratches and gel coat cracks, refinishing teak and holly cabin sole, installing a new battery and depth finder gauge and checking the electrical system. The deck has since been stripped of hardware preparatory for painting with fiberglass primer and two-part polyurethane (Hatteras Off-White). Once the boat is painted, all the hardware, refinished teak, new navigation lights, and an outboard bracket will be installed. Looking for a launch (relaunch) date sometime in March.

ILikeRust · Post by **ILikeRust** » Fri Mar 09, 2012 4:03 pm

Crazer wrote:I've already put more into my boat then it'll ever be worth and I'm just getting started.

Amen, brudda!

BOAT=

Break
Out
Another
Thousand

ILikeRust · Post by **ILikeRust** » Fri Mar 09, 2012 4:06 pm

seasailor55 wrote:Curious thing was, whenever we got into grinding down the the resin, a purple powder would appear. It looked and felt like blue carpenter's chalk. ????

When I tore out the cabin sole in my 1968 Pearson Wanderer and then ground down the remaining resin/glass flange and ground it smooth to the surrounding hull surface, I encountered a couple pockets of some mysterios bluish-purple substance. Didn't seem like power, but it sounds like it might the same thing you're talking about.

I was wondering the same thing - as I hit it, it first made me concerned I had gone too far - what the heck is this blue blob?

seasailor55 · Post by **seasailor55** » Wed Jun 27, 2012 11:38 am

Still progressing on our Cape Dory 22 restoration. Areas of the deck and cockpit sole have been recored with new balsa, gel coat cracks and gouges have been filled, all Coast Guard required safety equipment has been purchased, and the boat is nearly ready for painting with fiberglass primer, two-part polyurethane (Hatteras Off-White) finish coat, Petit Sand colored non-skid areas, and red bottom paint. Reinstallation of lifelines, winches, teak trim, and deck hardware will be next.

Once the CD22 is finished, our Ensign project will begin in earnest, with fabrication and installation of mast step supports, bukheads, cabin sole and v-berth. Fiberglass repairs on areas of the hull will begin, with sections of the foredeck core and the king plank needing replacement, as well as fabrication of a new transom with outboard motor supports and backstay chainplate. Fairing, sanding, and painting the hull and deck will be next. Whew! I'm getting tired just listing everything!

seasailor55 · Post by **seasailor55** » Mon Jul 16, 2012 12:16 pm

Here are some photos of our CD 22 being painted.
Primer: PPG Amercoat 235H two part epoxy
Finish: PPG Amercoat 450H Hatteras Off-White two part Aliphatic Polyurethane.

The top photo shows the boat with the hull faired and sanded. The next two are application of the epoxy primer. The next one is of application of the polyurethane finish coat. The last two are of the finished hull and deck.

What's not shown is: recoring and fairing 3 deck and cockpit areas, and many hours of filling and fairing gelcoat cracks and gouges.

The photos don't show it, but the hull and deck are smooth and glossy.

seasailor55 · Post by **seasailor55** » Mon Jul 30, 2012 12:51 pm

More photos of a Cape Dory 22 restoration. Masking and painting non-skid deck areas.

I masked off the non-skid deck areas using 3M painter's masking tape, which leaves a clean line when peeled, and doesn't harden over several days exposure to the sun. I had some Amercoat 450H polyurethane tinted a sand color, added hardener and some Rhino non-skid polymer particles, and applied it using a 3/8" nap 4" roller. The coverage was good and the particulates were well dispersed in the paint.

seasailor55 · Post by **seasailor55** » Thu Aug 02, 2012 4:56 pm

Non-skid dry and masking tape removed. The surface is glossy but has great traction, wet or dry.

seasailor55 · Post by **seasailor55** » Thu Oct 04, 2012 10:04 am

Continuing our restoration of Cape Dory 22 # 161, all teak was removed, stripped, sanded, reinstalled, and coated with Penetrol. Penetrol produces a transparent, slightly flat finish that doesn't build up and chip or crack like varnish. Once the teak is saturated and dry, maintenance consists of a periodic wipe down with a soaked rag.

earlylight · Post by **earlylight** » Thu Oct 04, 2012 11:53 am

Wow, it is amazing how the refinished teak sets her off as a vessel of beauty. Keep up the good work and keep the pics coming!

Cruiser2B · Post by **Cruiser2B** » Sat Oct 06, 2012 8:42 am

Looks Great!

seasailor55 · Post by **seasailor55** » Tue Nov 06, 2012 6:41 pm

Continuing our restoration of Cape Dory 22 # 161, we scheduled two Saturdays to finish installing deck hardware. The stainless bow pulpit was drilled for the bow light wiring to pass through the port rear rail, and a matching hole drilled in the deck prior to setting with 3M 4000 sealant and stainless bolts.

The bronze anodized toe/rub rails were dry fitted, trimmed and installed using 3M 4000 and stainless screws. The originals were teak, but they were unsalvagable according to the donor of the boat, who purchased and supplied these. We then installed the stainless lifeline stanchions and ran the lifelines.

earlylight · Post by **earlylight** » Wed Nov 07, 2012 12:07 am

Very nice! :-)

seasailor55 · Post by **seasailor55** » Wed Jan 09, 2013 6:56 pm

Another photo of CD22 # 161 with toe rails, bow pulpit, and lifelines installed and waterline masked off. Cabin eyebrows and outboard bracket will be next, along with Cobalt Blue boot stripe, gold cove stripe, registration numbers and medium blue anti-fouling paint.

seasailor55 · Post by **seasailor55** » Tue Apr 02, 2013 12:22 pm

Latest progress:

Outboard bracket installed, bootstripe applied (2 coats PPG Amercoat Cobalt Blue), bottom painted with 2 coats PPG Medium Blue antifouling. Teak cabin eyebrows installed. Hawkeye digital depth finder installed. All interior woodwork refinished in satin polyurethane. Cabin sole refinished, running lights installed.

Almost launch day!

earlylight · Post by **earlylight** » Tue Apr 02, 2013 12:45 pm

Congrats on a very nice restoration of a classic. She is vessel of beauty.

seasailor55 · Post by **seasailor55** » Wed Sep 25, 2013 4:41 pm

CD22 # 161 "restoration complete after 2 years. The boat was launched last Saturday. Final touches included refinishing all exterior teak with Honey Teak polyurethane, new sail and tiller covers in Toast Sunbrella, and modifications to the trailer.

She sails wonderfully. A little tender at first, then stiffens up and goes at it. Surprisingly quick for a 3200 lb. full keel boat. We named her "ADVENTURER" in honor of the Venture Crew scouts that raised the restoration funds and did a lot of the work on the boat. Sail training can now begin in earnest.

earlylight · Post by **earlylight** » Wed Sep 25, 2013 7:47 pm

Congratulations, she is a beauty1 Tell your Venture Scouts that they should be proud of their accomplishments, Now all that hard work pays off in fun on the water.:-)

seasailor55 · Post by **seasailor55** » Fri Oct 04, 2013 9:10 am

Sailing!!!!

earlylight · Post by **earlylight** » Fri Oct 04, 2013 9:47 am

Congratulations, she looks like a real sweet vessel. :-)

seasailor55 · Post by **seasailor55** » Fri Oct 04, 2013 5:32 pm

Thanks, Dick

She's got all the bells and whistles that come with being a Cape Dory - the bronze hardware, the ash, teak, and holly woodwork, and the 3/16" rigging with six shrouds plus forestay and backstay. We are very fortunate to have her, and she's the flagship of our program.

Next up: restoration of a donated 1978 Paceship PY23. The boat came to us with a trailer, outboard, complete rig with sails, a roller furler, and lots of gear. The hull and deck are in good shape, with a good cleaning, polish and wax needed. There is some plumbing and some wiring that need attention and woodwork that needs replacing. My hope is to have it ready to match race with the Cape Dory. They are similar in size, beam, and sail area although radically different from each other.

earlylight · Post by **earlylight** » Fri Oct 04, 2013 8:41 pm

seasailor55,
I had a dock-mate some 20 year ago who had a Paceship 23. If my memory serves me correctly, she was a very quick boat in her day and her owner sailed her like she was a spirited dinghy. :-)
Best of luck

Carl-A259 · Post by **Carl-A259** » Sat Oct 05, 2013 3:45 pm

What happened to the Ensign??

seasailor55 · Post by **seasailor55** » Mon Oct 07, 2013 10:00 am

I did some research before we accepted the PY23, particularly about the build quality and performance under sail. They are reportedly well built for a production boat and quick for a 23 footer. A former owner stated that "it's not a dinghy and not a keel boat despite of that chunk of iron down there". Our boat has a 150% genoa on a roller fuler, which equates to almost 290 sq. ft. of sail area on a 2460 lb. boat! Might get pretty interesting in a good breeze, but ample freeboard combined with high cockpit coamings, lifelines and self righting ability at 90+ degrees should help.

Carl - we still have the Ensign, it's still on the restoration list, and we have obtained all the plywood needed for the mast step, cabin sole, bulkheads, and V berth. I've also located a source for teak for the cockpit floor. As a matter of fact, we joined the Ensign Class Association and they traced our boat's history. It appears that it is hull # 956, which was originally purchased by a man from Shreveport, LA. , and that it was moved to Galveston, then Lake Charles, LA. some time in the early 80's. The PY23 is much closer to being ready for launch, so we're planning to do it first.

seasailor55 · Post by **seasailor55** » Wed Oct 23, 2013 11:12 am

More photos of a 1978 PY23 restoration. Gave her a good bath, and removed the black and green algae. The hull and deck still need a good buffing and wax, but should shine up nicely. I tackled the corroded stainless, brass, and carbon steel cockpit drain (which had broken off under the cockpit and was allowing rainwater to collect in the hull), and replaced it with a Marelon cockpit drain with strainer set in polyether sealant. Lots of fun lying in the bottom of the hull accessed through a cockpit seat hatch! I'm considering building cockpit lockers to seal up that large open area under the cockpit and then opening up an access hatch from the rear of the cabin. I don't like the idea of relying on cockpit seat lids for keeping green water out of the hull even though there will be a 1200 GPH bilge pump there. For now, however, the hull and cockpit are buttoned up and watertight.

Crazer · Post by **Crazer** » Wed Oct 23, 2013 7:59 pm

Just wanted to give a shout out and a "thanks!" for this thread. Really cool stuff, and quite inspiring. I may be buying a Typhoon Senior (earlier model of the Cape Dory 22) so I'll be referring back to this thread to keep myself going as I work on her.

seasailor55 · Post by **seasailor55** » Tue Oct 29, 2013 1:59 pm

Crazer wrote:Just wanted to give a shout out and a "thanks!" for this thread. Really cool stuff, and quite inspiring. I may be buying a Typhoon Senior (earlier model of the Cape Dory 22) so I'll be referring back to this thread to keep myself going as I work on her.

Thanks. It's a lot of work, but I enjoy it and restoring the boats on my property instead of a boatyard enables me to save money, work at my own pace, and accomplish things a little at a time to keep things moving.

Tyhpoon Senior. Nice boat, and a rare one at that. Cape Dory only built 56 of them. Essentially a CD 22 hull with a different cabin profile, a simple interior, a fractional rig, and 300 lbs. more ballast.The outboard well is a nice touch and keeps the stern uncluttered. These boats really sail, and a 140% genoa to counter the weather helm they develop in a good breeze is a big help. A gentleman that lives a few miles from me was restoring one a few years back and built a custom trailer for it.

seasailor55 · Post by **seasailor55** » Wed Dec 18, 2013 2:20 pm

Continuing restoration (refit?) of the 1978 PY23. The wooden part of the rudder head was (er...rotten) and crumbled when I removed the 1/4" aluminum plate cheek pieces. Using the outline of the rotten wood and a drawing from the PY23 Owner's Association website I was able to create a new rudder head. I laminated some MDO plywood to a thickness of 1-1/4" (the fiberglass rudder blade is 1-1/8" thick at the head) and cut out, shaped, and drilled the new rudder head to match the cheek pieces and the stainless tiller bracket. I then applied Honey Teak polyurethane, which gave the unpainted MDO a rich honey brown hue and a nice finish to the visible ply layers.

The tiller was gone except for a rotted stump, so I laminated a curved 40" long tiller from alternating 3/16" X 1-1/2" white fir and red oak strips to a thickness of 1-1/2". I plan to taper the forward 8" gradually to 1" square and round the corners with a router bit. Honey Teak polyurethane will finish it off. There was some slack (clunk!!) in the rudder blade pivot, so I slid a 1/2" ID X 5/8" OD X 1-1/8" long bronze sleeve bushing onto the rudder pivot bolt. Nice and tight, but still allows free movement of the rudder blade. Next up, putting the boat in slings and raising it to drop and inspect the centerboard, clean and paint the iron keel including the slot, and replacing the centerboard pennant. Ordered a fuel pump kit and water pump kit for the 6HP Johnson outboard.