I am beginning to set up my boat for use with a chute Triton 629. when i purchased the boat it came with a chute that i have yet to measure. I did lay it our next to an old head sail and the luff of the head sail was approximately 5' shorter than the luff/leach of the chute. I have no spin pole or any previous provisions for mounting. I am basically looking for any info you all can provide as for mounting stowage sheeting, length of pole? where does everyone sheet and run there foreguys to? Are the chutes generally hoisted to mast head or fractional? what do you all use for topping lift and down haul? I've looked thru a bunch of pics but never really found and good shots of mounting points. pics greatly appreciated
Thanks
Brandon
Spinnaker Pole
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- Damned Because It's All Connected
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Re: Spinnaker Pole
Is that spinnaker in good condition?
Good enough to let it determine your hardware configuration?
Step one: measure the luff and foot of that spinnaker and compare to the "standard" Triton spinnaker sizes (reference Sailrite).
If it's close enough to either the standard fractional or masthead design, then go that way. If it's in-between, you have decisions to make. 5' longer than the jib luff sounds like masthead to me.
I use the jib halyard as my topping lift. I don't have roller furling, so it's handy.
I do have a tang and block for a topping lift on the mast, roughly at the height of the spreaders, but I've never bothered to run a dedicated topping lift.
I only bother to rig a downhaul in very puffy conditions, and then I just tie directly to the foredeck cleat.
I run the sheets through my genoa (160) blocks. Really not a significantly different sheeting angle than running to a snatch on the transom.
In most conditions I don't bother to run the guy forward. When I do feel compelled, I just run through a snatch tied off to the mid-deck cleats.
The ring on the mast must, IMHO, be on a track.
For ideal pole length, measure from your forwardmost shroud chainplate forward to wherever you want the end of the pole to lie on deck when stowed. Mine lies happily inboard of the forward base of the bow pulpit and outboard of the padeye for the lifelines.
Good enough to let it determine your hardware configuration?
Step one: measure the luff and foot of that spinnaker and compare to the "standard" Triton spinnaker sizes (reference Sailrite).
If it's close enough to either the standard fractional or masthead design, then go that way. If it's in-between, you have decisions to make. 5' longer than the jib luff sounds like masthead to me.
I use the jib halyard as my topping lift. I don't have roller furling, so it's handy.
I do have a tang and block for a topping lift on the mast, roughly at the height of the spreaders, but I've never bothered to run a dedicated topping lift.
I only bother to rig a downhaul in very puffy conditions, and then I just tie directly to the foredeck cleat.
I run the sheets through my genoa (160) blocks. Really not a significantly different sheeting angle than running to a snatch on the transom.
In most conditions I don't bother to run the guy forward. When I do feel compelled, I just run through a snatch tied off to the mid-deck cleats.
The ring on the mast must, IMHO, be on a track.
For ideal pole length, measure from your forwardmost shroud chainplate forward to wherever you want the end of the pole to lie on deck when stowed. Mine lies happily inboard of the forward base of the bow pulpit and outboard of the padeye for the lifelines.
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- Rough Carpentry Apprentice
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Re: Spinnaker Pole
fairly good no patches and material seems good seems like a heavy chute.Figment wrote:Is that spinnaker in good condition?
Good enough to let it determine your hardware configuration?.
seems like they only have an a-sym listed maybe i'm missing it?Figment wrote:Step one: measure the luff and foot of that spinnaker and compare to the "standard" Triton spinnaker sizes (reference Sailrite)
seems like a pain to trim if you have to run fwd every timeFigment wrote:I only bother to rig a downhaul in very puffy conditions, and then I just tie directly to the foredeck cleat.
where abouts are your 160 blocks, so do you fly your chute on just the sheets and no guy?Figment wrote:I run the sheets through my genoa (160) blocks. Really not a significantly different sheeting angle than running to a snatch on the transom. In most conditions I don't bother to run the guy forward. When I do feel compelled, I just run through a snatch tied off to the mid-deck cleats.
do you have a line / jam cleat to adjust height or just move the pole by hand and pin it?Figment wrote:The ring on the mast must, IMHO, be on a track.
Thanks a lot for the responses if anyone has any pics of placement that would help a lot.
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Re: Spinnaker Pole
found some info of my own but keep it coming
http://www.tritonclass.org/articles/spi/spinpix.html
http://www.tritonclass.org/articles/spi/#jibing
http://www.tritonclass.org/articles/spi/spinpix.html
http://www.tritonclass.org/articles/spi/#jibing
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Re: Spinnaker Pole
From Chesapeake bay Triton fleet website
# Spinnaker Pole: Spinnaker poles may be 10’ 0” long maximum. It may be hoisted by means of topping lift and guyed as preferred by the owner. Track stop for vertical travel of pole may be a maximum of 7’ 0” from top of the deckhouse.
# Spinnaker Pole: Spinnaker poles may be 10’ 0” long maximum. It may be hoisted by means of topping lift and guyed as preferred by the owner. Track stop for vertical travel of pole may be a maximum of 7’ 0” from top of the deckhouse.
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- Damned Because It's All Connected
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Re: Spinnaker Pole
I know sailrite's database used to show symmetric spinnaker information. I don't imagine that it was ever a big seller, but still very odd that they'd remove it.
I don't find myself trimming the foreguy often. I set it for a particular point of sail, and that's that.
My 160 blocks are roughly at the aft end of the cabin deadlights.
Yes, I fly sheets-only. The fractional chute is plenty small enough to fly without dedicated guys. The masthead may be marginal. IMHO, you only need dedicated guys when dip-pole gybing, and that really only becomes worthwhile when the boat gets into the 33-35' range.
I move the pole by hand and pin it. Again, not something that gets adjusted much unless drastically altering the point of sail.
I don't find myself trimming the foreguy often. I set it for a particular point of sail, and that's that.
My 160 blocks are roughly at the aft end of the cabin deadlights.
Yes, I fly sheets-only. The fractional chute is plenty small enough to fly without dedicated guys. The masthead may be marginal. IMHO, you only need dedicated guys when dip-pole gybing, and that really only becomes worthwhile when the boat gets into the 33-35' range.
I move the pole by hand and pin it. Again, not something that gets adjusted much unless drastically altering the point of sail.
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Re: Spinnaker Pole
Much of the spinnaker measurements rely on the "J" measurement: from the front of the mast to the pointy-end of the boat or the forestay chainplate.
For cruising it doesn't matter so much, but I suspect the reason the Chesapeake Bay Triton Fleet limits the pole to 10 feet is because that is the J on a Triton.
The chute specs should be the hoist length (from deck to block) and the "girth" or widest part of the sail should be 180% of the J.
You might also try baconsails.com to see if they have the Triton spin measurements.
For cruising it doesn't matter so much, but I suspect the reason the Chesapeake Bay Triton Fleet limits the pole to 10 feet is because that is the J on a Triton.
The chute specs should be the hoist length (from deck to block) and the "girth" or widest part of the sail should be 180% of the J.
You might also try baconsails.com to see if they have the Triton spin measurements.