Rotary Nav Light Switch
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- Skilled Systems Installer
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Rotary Nav Light Switch
I am trying to finalyze the plan for my winter re-wiring project. In plannng my distribution panel I am bothered by the thought of dedicating 4 breakers to nav lights. It seems to me that a more practicle approach would be a single breaker feeding a 4 position + off rotary switch.
So far my google efforts for such a marine rated DC switch have been unsuccesful. Does anyone know of a source for such a product? A mounting plate with spaces for labels would be great too.
Alternatively, reccomendations on a different solution would also be appreciated.
So far my google efforts for such a marine rated DC switch have been unsuccesful. Does anyone know of a source for such a product? A mounting plate with spaces for labels would be great too.
Alternatively, reccomendations on a different solution would also be appreciated.
The board does not cut itself short!
The only switch controlling all lights I remember seeing was ~$200, if that matters. I sure hope there are other options.
It doesnt combine all lights, but I like this idea:
http://www.sailorssolutions.com/index.a ... =LEDNAVSW1
It doesnt combine all lights, but I like this idea:
http://www.sailorssolutions.com/index.a ... =LEDNAVSW1
- Tim
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What about a small separate panel for the nav lights? This one is just a representative suggestion that I found during a quick Google, but it's an idea that I have been harboring for the future.
http://www.borelmfg.com/nav_light.htm
http://www.borelmfg.com/nav_light.htm
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- Master Varnisher
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- Ceasar Choppy
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I think you are looking for this from Aquasignal(?)
More here: http://www.aquasignal.info/ecat/htdocs/ ... tem_id=655
I really like this switch-- except for the fact that you can't use your deck nav lights while sailing-- since this switch ties them in with the bow or steaming light. Wondering how hard it would be to eliminate that problem?
More here: http://www.aquasignal.info/ecat/htdocs/ ... tem_id=655
I really like this switch-- except for the fact that you can't use your deck nav lights while sailing-- since this switch ties them in with the bow or steaming light. Wondering how hard it would be to eliminate that problem?
- Peter
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The description at Ahoy Captainsays " In every switch position an additional lighting function, such as deck lighting, can be switched on or off by pulling or pushing the switch."Ceasar Choppy wrote:I really like this switch-- except for the fact that you can't use your deck nav lights while sailing-- since this switch ties them in with the bow or steaming light. Wondering how hard it would be to eliminate that problem?
Is this what you need?
Cool switch .... I'll add that one to my re-wire wish list.
Thanks for the link!
- Ceasar Choppy
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Yup. Pull out for the decklight.
I suppose I could wire it so that the steaming light comes on when pulled out, but it makes sense to have the decklight on that circuit since you may need it an any time. The steaming light is only on when you are motoring.
I have a tricolor and deckmounted navlights. It would make sense for me to wire in tricolor for sailing only but I use either the tri color or the deck-navs when I'm sailing. Wiring it the way they recommend would preclude me from turning on the deck-navs without the steaming light.
The only way I can see this working is to put the tricolor or the steaming light on a separate switch-- which sorta defeats the whole purpose of having everything on this switch. That, and I'd like a solution that does not allow for both tricolor and decknav on at the same time (don't get me started on the yahoos I've seen in sailboats this past summer with both tri and deck navs on).
Still, I think this switch is a great idea... kinda like the light switch on my old Benz.
I suppose I could wire it so that the steaming light comes on when pulled out, but it makes sense to have the decklight on that circuit since you may need it an any time. The steaming light is only on when you are motoring.
I have a tricolor and deckmounted navlights. It would make sense for me to wire in tricolor for sailing only but I use either the tri color or the deck-navs when I'm sailing. Wiring it the way they recommend would preclude me from turning on the deck-navs without the steaming light.
The only way I can see this working is to put the tricolor or the steaming light on a separate switch-- which sorta defeats the whole purpose of having everything on this switch. That, and I'd like a solution that does not allow for both tricolor and decknav on at the same time (don't get me started on the yahoos I've seen in sailboats this past summer with both tri and deck navs on).
Still, I think this switch is a great idea... kinda like the light switch on my old Benz.
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Why not run the wire for the tri-color from that switch to a follow-on SPDT switch with one position being the tri-color and the other being the deck mounted running lights? That way you are assured that only one or the other will be illuminated, not both.I have a tricolor and deckmounted navlights. It would make sense for me to wire in tricolor for sailing only but I use either the tri color or the deck-navs when I'm sailing. Wiring it the way they recommend would preclude me from turning on the deck-navs without the steaming light.
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- Master of the Arcane
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Reason enough as I see it not to use that switch, as clever as it may seem. Tricolor is really for off-shore. The Coast Guard still hasn't recognized mast top running lights. Not being able to use deck running lights alone, like you have expressed concern about, would be irresponsible if you ask me. The mini panel thing Tim shows allows any combination. It does however leave the responsibility of using only proper combinations up to the operator.Ceasar Choppy wrote:
Wiring it the way they recommend would preclude me from turning on the deck-navs without the steaming light.
Dave Finnegan
builder of Spindrift 9N #521 'Wingë'
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Gresham’s Law of information: Bad information drives out good. No matter how long ago a correction for a particular error may have appeared in print or online, it never seems to catch up with the ever-widening distribution of the error.
builder of Spindrift 9N #521 'Wingë'
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Gresham’s Law of information: Bad information drives out good. No matter how long ago a correction for a particular error may have appeared in print or online, it never seems to catch up with the ever-widening distribution of the error.
- Ceasar Choppy
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Just a quick hijack/rant here:
Why is it that so many sailors who pride themselves in being so safety conscious and fastidious about things like the COLREGS unlike their powerboat brethren, like to flaunt the rules on proper navigation lights??? I do a lot of night sailing and I've seen it more and more over the last few years.
Usually its just using both tri color and decknavs while sailing. Sometimes its tricolor and steaming light while motoring. But the worst is decknavs, steaming light AND anchor light. To someone who does a lot of night sailing, the latter looks a LOT like a tug pulling a barge less that 200 meters.
So even though you might think the belt and suspenders approach to lighting is a good one, just think how others out there will actually see and interpret (or misinterpret) your lighting configuration. The COLREGS on navlights are pretty simple and there is no reason you need to make a personal exception!
Why is it that so many sailors who pride themselves in being so safety conscious and fastidious about things like the COLREGS unlike their powerboat brethren, like to flaunt the rules on proper navigation lights??? I do a lot of night sailing and I've seen it more and more over the last few years.
Usually its just using both tri color and decknavs while sailing. Sometimes its tricolor and steaming light while motoring. But the worst is decknavs, steaming light AND anchor light. To someone who does a lot of night sailing, the latter looks a LOT like a tug pulling a barge less that 200 meters.
So even though you might think the belt and suspenders approach to lighting is a good one, just think how others out there will actually see and interpret (or misinterpret) your lighting configuration. The COLREGS on navlights are pretty simple and there is no reason you need to make a personal exception!
I hear you, Caesar. The first boat I cruised on, I was just crew, without much to say about the way the boat was run. The skipper felt that it was best to put "all his lights on" at night in order to be seen (I'm not talking about an imminent collision here, either). It drove me nuts. Like, let's just go down the road with headlights and taillights on all four corners of the car, so we're sure to be seen. :tears hair:
I think if I wanted to improve my chances via lighting, I'd stick with the prescribed lights but just get bigger, brighter ones.
Okay, rant off!
Rachel
I think if I wanted to improve my chances via lighting, I'd stick with the prescribed lights but just get bigger, brighter ones.
Okay, rant off!
Rachel
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I've requested a quote for a complete custom dc panel from mobile marine electrical to include an off + 4 rotary nav light switch. If the price isn't too much more than stock panels I will purchase the custom panel. If the price scares me I may just have them make me up a small nav switch panel.
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- Ceasar Choppy
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I don't think many sailors realize that the light configuration tells you what the boat is any more. Again, it is failure to learn the need skills and info. Light patterns are becoming less and less reliable as information as more people invent their own.Ceasar Choppy wrote:Just a quick hijack/rant here:
Usually its just using both tri color and decknavs while sailing. Sometimes its tricolor and steaming light while motoring. But the worst is decknavs, steaming light AND anchor light. To someone who does a lot of night sailing, the latter looks a LOT like a tug pulling a barge less that 200 meters.
Dave Finnegan
builder of Spindrift 9N #521 'Wingë'
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gresham’s Law of information: Bad information drives out good. No matter how long ago a correction for a particular error may have appeared in print or online, it never seems to catch up with the ever-widening distribution of the error.
builder of Spindrift 9N #521 'Wingë'
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gresham’s Law of information: Bad information drives out good. No matter how long ago a correction for a particular error may have appeared in print or online, it never seems to catch up with the ever-widening distribution of the error.
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Well the panel quote finally came back. $1300 for an m series dual battery selector, linklite, rotary nav light switch, and 14 breakers. Too rich for my blood. I have the same components from Blue sea plus an auto charging relay and 3 24 hour breakers priced at $760.
Have any of you ever used any of the Blue Sea 360 components? It seems like a way to build a professional looking panel while maintaining flexibility on it's contents.
Individual modules are available from multiple sources but if you want them tied together in a single panel you have to order through one of Blue Sea's "partners". I am curious how the modules connect together and if it's possible to assemble a professional looking panel on one's own.
Have any of you ever used any of the Blue Sea 360 components? It seems like a way to build a professional looking panel while maintaining flexibility on it's contents.
Individual modules are available from multiple sources but if you want them tied together in a single panel you have to order through one of Blue Sea's "partners". I am curious how the modules connect together and if it's possible to assemble a professional looking panel on one's own.
The board does not cut itself short!
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I am wiring my panel and the first 4 breakers are 1. Running (deck lights) 2. Tricolor 3. Steaming and 4. Anchor. In my adled mind the plan was to have two running light options, runnning and tricolor. Now that I am actually doing the work I realize I can't follow the ABYC single switch guideline and wire the steaming light and the 2 running light options using breakers alone. I could wire the deck lights with the steaming light and leave the tricolor as the only running light option or I could ignore ABYC and turn on both the steaming light breaker and the running (deck) light breaker when under power. Thoughts?
The board does not cut itself short!
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- Master of the Arcane
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Breakers are primarily for protecting circuits. You could make a switch panel for exterior lights and power the whole thing off of one breaker. This would save breakers for other stuff and still be ample protection, even when a couple lights were on. It would also mean you could use any needed combination of lights and be ABYC compliant.
Dave Finnegan
builder of Spindrift 9N #521 'Wingë'
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gresham’s Law of information: Bad information drives out good. No matter how long ago a correction for a particular error may have appeared in print or online, it never seems to catch up with the ever-widening distribution of the error.
builder of Spindrift 9N #521 'Wingë'
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gresham’s Law of information: Bad information drives out good. No matter how long ago a correction for a particular error may have appeared in print or online, it never seems to catch up with the ever-widening distribution of the error.
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I guess what I am doing a poor job of asking is if there is a way to wire the switches so that the steaming switch illuminates the steaming light and the bow and stern lights and the running switch lights the the bow and stern lights. In my head the only way to make this work is to wire just the steaming light to the steaming switch and the bow and stern lights to the running switch and to turn both switches on when under power. This would seem to be at odds with the ABYC single switch rule.
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- Tim
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ABYC A-16.6.6 indicates the following:
I think that covers your concern. Clearly there is not a way to make one switch do it all when you require two separate lighting schemes depending on whether you're under power or sail. ABYC has taken this into account with this exception.ABYC A-16.6.6 wrote:EXCEPTION: Auxiliary powered sailboats may use additional switches to satisfy underway conditions for both sail and power.
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