![Image](http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/2232/sailplan1ka7.jpg)
Thats the sail plan, when the file is bigger the numbers are able to be read.
There is a thread around here somewhere asking about Triton mast heights. I think most of them come in around 36'10" for the sloop rigs and maybe 30' for the yawl rigged boats. Nothing is set in stone with Tritons and there is always the chance the mast isn't original so there really is no way of knowing other than measuring it yourself. For bridge clearance I would want something over 40' taking the topsides height into account. If my memory serves most of those bridges are either really high or really low so hopefully it will be a pretty clear cut decision for you either way.What is the bridge clearance on a triton?
Conservatively, for an Atomic Four, figure a gallon an hour. At a comfortable cruise speed I have calculated closer to 0.6-0.7 gallons an hour but that will depend on a lot of factors. A gallon an hour should keep you safe unless you run wide open throttle the whole time (you will easily reach hull speed at lower throttle settings)What kind of fuel mileage should I expect?
You will get a lot of different answers to that one. The most common choices I think are under the V-berth, either along one side or under the 'filler' piece, behind the head in the small closet area, or under the port settee. There really isn't a lot of room and your choice will depend a lot on how much you really think you will need it and how many other items are competing for the same space. And then you could relocate the toilet into the V-berth area as has been discussed around here and that opens up a lot of interesing possibilities. Keeping the head where it is though, I would say close nearby and don't expect to store two weeks' worth of waste water.Since the head is currently without holding tank, where is the best spot for one?
Ah, perhaps that's what is (was) for. I thought it looked a little bit delicate for starting the A-4, but I thought I'd post them both just to be sure. So it looks like the bottom (chunkier) handle is what Zach is looking for. The paint and finish level on that one do match the engine better.Ceasar Choppy wrote:Are you sure the top handle isn't for a roller furling boom?
First thought: too many pronouns. Be more specific.Zach wrote:Good info to know! Sure wouldn't like to get whacked by a hand crank...
Boats broken down! Stuck in Coinjock, NC. Prop shaft is not turning, has slid back and jammed the rudder.
Transmission shifts gears, and the gears inside spin. The whole assembly moves fore and aft when working the shift lever, with a metalic click... as if the transmission shaft has broken internally.
The hub on the shaft is still connected to the prop shaft. The prop shaft will spin if I hold a lot] of pressure against the shift lever.
Had a diver hop over and see if the prop had sheared the key, he hammered backward on the prop and it slid out. Prior to that the prop shaft would spin when engine was in gear.
Any thoughts?
So I assume by "in gear" that you feel a positive clunk in the shifter. Otherwise I would think a non-turning shaft means you are not in gear or the engine isn't running. Just curious, do you have the original 2 foot removable bronze shift lever that is directly connected (through linkage) to the transmission or has the shifter been upgraded with a cable linkage type affair? Maybe you have a sloppy or slipping shift cable?...the propeller shaft does not spin when in gear.
Does the shaft the coupling is connected to spin? It doesn't sound like it but the coupling on the prop shaft is held in place by a key and a set screw. If the key is missing (anything is possible with old Tritons) then the set screw could easily loosen enough to let the two parts stop turning together.The coupling does not spin
Which cover are we talking about here? The cover on the transmission? That confuses me because you don't need to remove the cover to see the engine output shaft or the prop shaft. Removing the cover just shows the guts of the transmission.with the cover off I can spin the prop shaft by hand and the main shaft of the transmission does not spin.
I would have to agree with that. You might be able to find just the transmission for an A4 and replace it but I have never seen one on its own. Yanmars make a nice upgrade.Mike wrote:If the shaft and coupling are moving fore and aft you're toast
I'm 95% sure I have one, believe it or not. I don't know if it works as I never had cause to swap it out. Access to where it's stored is a challenge, but if you pull yours, Zach, and you're sure it's bad, let me know and I'll go check and see if I still have the thing.You might be able to find just the transmission for an A4 and replace it but I have never seen one on its own.