Seized throttle and shifter levers

[Tallystick]

Anyone have experience with freeing a seized throttle and shifter lever assembly? The control cables work fine, but the shifter levers are seized up and I can't move them at all.

I've got the assembly off the boat, and I'm planning on soaking it in phosphoric acid, then using heat, pb blaster and smacking the thing with a piece of wood to hopefully break free the corrosion bond. May have to pony up for a new unit, but they are pricey.

Any other suggestions?

[CalebD]

Your plan sounds pretty good to me.
I'd take it slow and try not to break something.
I also wonder if there is some kind of tool like a Dentist's pick or metal nail file that you could use to get between the levers and try to get the corrosion out.
I'm assuming the levers where probably chrome plated so the corrosion is more like aluminum corrosion?
Good luck with that one.

[Tallystick]

Well the corrosion is in the bearing/rotating assembly. It's appears to be iron rust. The theory behind phosophoric acid treatment is that the rust gets converted to magnetite aka black oxide. The red iron rust is lower density than iron or magnetite, so it expands and clogs up the parts. Converting the red rust to magnetite causes the oxide to shrink, which breaks the corrosion bond and allows enough clearance for the parts to move. It will definitely take time for the acid to penetrate into the rotating assembly.

This part may be to far gone, but it's worth a shot anyways. I did find a nearly identical two lever motor control on ebay new for $150, so I at least have that option if unseizing doesn't work.

[Carl-A259]

Throttle and shift lever?? I thought the shift lever stuck through the floor and the throttle bolted to the side of the cockpit?? If all fails I have a stock throttle lever if I can find all the parts.

[Tallystick]

This one is the style my boat has. http://www.ebay.com/itm/330485206505?ss ... 1438.l2649

[CalebD]

I am familiar with Naval Jelly which contains the phosphoric acid.
It is worth trying to soak it for a while in that.
Also consider PB Blaster as an alternative soaking fluid.
I'd even try Marvel Mystery Oil which has rust inhibitors in it.
Perhaps you can press out the axle or pin?

[Tallystick]

The phosphoric acid I'm using is Jabsco prep and primer. It's very thin so it can penetrate better than naval jelly. Same principle though. There is a brass part that is squared off where a control cable attaches. I tried unscrewing that but gave up after the wrench started to round off the metal. Not certain that removing that piece will help, but if the rest of my ideas fail, maybe using a vice to unscrew the brass piece would be my last ditch effort.

Right now the assembly is in the Jabsco phosphoric acid solution. Just being patient with it for now. Plenty of other boat projects to work on in the meantime.

[Tallystick]

The smaller lever is now freed. Doesn't take much effort to move it now, but the motion is slightly rougher than a new lever. Not a big deal as far as I'm concerned. The larger lever may be more difficult. I didn't realize there was a plastic washer inside until after my propane torch turned it into a molten foam. Now I'll have to bolt the assembly to my workbench and opt for the brute force method. Either the base or lever will break, or the lever will be freed.

[Carl-A259]

These new are on Ebay for $87.00 by boaterbits. DUAL LEVER SIDE MOUNT MARINE ENGINE CONTROLS 60053

[Tallystick]

Yep, that's the one I was looking at on ebay. The seller has a buy it now price for $150, and several auctions going as well. The high bid is $87.00 for the auction closing later today. I'll be interested to see what price it closes at. Good to know I've got a backup option, but not ready to give up on my old unit quite yet.

[Tallystick]

That worked. Both levers are free. Small lever turns with one finger. The large lever is a bit tighter, but should be totally usable.