Teak end grain on sea hood

[Tallystick]

I'm working on my sea hood, the front and sides of which are being constructed from 1" solid teak. I have the choice of either covering the end grain on the front board with thin teak strips, or I could use a 1/2" roundover router bit to impart a rounded edge. The first choice would be more durable, the second choice better looking. In either case, the sea hood will be thoroughly varnished.

Which would you do?

[Tallystick]

Agreed. Pics or it didn't happen.

Ok, so here are all the pieces straight off the table saw and router. Still have to trim up the first slat to fit. Also have to add the contour on the front piece, but I've got a template made for the curvature so that shouldn't be a problem. The last photo is a close up of the rosewood that I made into U-channels to cover the aluminum hatch tracks, as well as the mating surfaces on the underside of the hatch. That makes a low friction rosewood on rosewood contact, and provides a really smooth sliding action.

I need a better camera.

[Hirilondë]

I have the choice of either covering the end grain on the front board with thin teak strips,............ The first choice would be more durable,

What makes you think that?

[Tallystick]

Because the only significant damage to the original teak on my boat was rotting that started at the end grains, and I know wood deterioration generally starts at the end grains. On the other hand, a thin strip could delaminate and expose the end grain, or moisture could possibly get trapped in between the pieces. I've seen several other sea hood designs that did cover the end grain, but those I believe were mahogany. So I'm wondering if I would need to bother with that since I'm using teak, and the sea hood will be kept varnished.

Sounds like your opinion is that I shouldn't worry about covering the end grain. Just thought I'd ask before I do any further milling, or epoxy it together.

[Hirilondë]

No, I don't see any need to cover end grain of any wood. If rot is your concern then any means of sealing the end grain will help. Just keep it well varnished, or oiled or what ever. When ever you glue a piece of wood across the grain of another you risk the glue joint breaking. Wood expands and contracts in width due to moisture. This can put a huge load on the glue joint, and can lead to the joint failing. This is far less likely to happen with teak because it is so stable due to it's natural oils, but it can happen. If the glue joint partially fails then it opens to absorb moisture and traps it thus speeding up rot instead of inhibiting it. Add in the heat and drying effect of the sun, moisture of the rain and all the other elemental variances of being exterior and wood on deck is particularly vulnerable. Because a sea hood has to end up completely sealed I would keep joints across the grain of another piece to a minimum, do them really well and make sure to keep the whole thing well varnished. I would also make a point of inspecting thoroughly, at least at varnishing time. But then that is one of the advantages of yearly varnishing, it makes you look closely at all of your exterior woodwork at least that once a year.