Installing the Boomkin

[Skipper599]

I'm currently in the process of installing a S.S. boomkin assembly on the transom.
It will be well attached by a couple of 41/2" X 4" flange plates, through bolted, each having 5 - 3/8" machine screws.
I made up, and had contemplated using slightly larger (area) 1/2" thick Teak pads between the S.S. and the f/g transom - basically to hide some minor damage to the gel-coat around the edges of the flange plates.
I'm having second thoughts now. I don't think I will do that, for one thing, it creates more finicky varnish work, but mainly because i believe I would be introducing a potential problem should the teak shrink, break, and fall apart.
I'm wondering what other medium I might use in place of teak? - - - I'm thinking like a Nylon pad - - - something similar and durable. - - - Any thoughts on this?

[Rachel]

How about fiberglass pads? I'm thinking of the pre-made FRP board from someplace like McMaster-Carr.

I don't know how much shaping might be required as I can't see what the installation area looks like. The FRP is not* as easy to work as wood, but you would have something that is basically the same material as the boat, so could be finished in the same way and would have the same expansion characteristics, etc. The fiberglass also takes sealants and doesn't creep (not sure what you mean by Nylon exactly, but something like Starboard does not take sealants well and is subject to creep under load).

Rachel

*As Doug caught below, I had somehow edited out the "not" in my original posting. I'm just putting it back now so no-one has to be thrown off track until they read Doug's correction.

[earlylight]

One possibility is that McMaster-Carr sells pre-fabricated fiberglass in varying thicknesses which could be painted to match the surrounding gel-coat. Just a thought.

[Quetzalsailor]

Bob, you can certainly use the McMaster Carr fiberglass as suggested above. However, it's quite dense and all, but not very pretty. I don't think it will take a fine finish directly; sanding will bring up glass. You'd have to shape the pieces, coat 'em in epoxy and paint, or coat 'em in gelcoat. Alternatively, you could make up stainless 'patches' to cover the issues. Shaped to match but exceed the boomkin's flanges' size, I think no one would catch on. Teak pads would be functionally fine, and maybe dressy, but who needs to work so hard to keep 'em varnished? I've got four such pads between air intakes and the deck. They won't survive my next refinishing!

[bigd14]

How about fiberglass pads? The FRP is as easy to work as wood

G4 FRP is as easy to work with as wood (well, really really hard wood). I love this stuff. However, be forewarned that its not quite the same as wood! I should have known better, but I found this out the hard way by trashing a really nice Forrest carbide tooth table saw blade. The stuff also leaves a persistent, nasty burning smell in your shop, which in my case permeated the entire house for weeks since the shop is in the basement. I had to blow fans for several days, and had to change the filter and bag on my shop vac and run a bunch of sawdust through it to clean out the FRP dust. I now do all FRP work outside using a skil saw with a gnarly blade on it for rough cuts, and a portable bench belt sander to finish the edges. Never again will I work with that stuff inside!

[Rachel]

Doug,

Oopsie, I had said NOT as easy to work as wood, but then I guess somehow I edited out the "not" without noticing. Geez. I'll see if I can go back and correct it. Definitely harder to work than your typical wood. The dust is nastier, too.

Quetzal,

The McMaster Carr FRP board will take paint just fine. I've seen or used Bilgekote, Brightsides, and Alwgrip with no problems. It's basically just like finishing fiberglass topsides (except it starts out nice and smooth).

[Skipper599]

Thanks to everyone for your comments and suggestions. Having hung the iron on the blunt end I think my idea of a pad under each flange is probably going overboard.

It looks as if my "fitting" skills have paid off with the flange plates fitting well against the transom and exhibit no gaps. As well, the "scars" are not quite as bad as I thought.

Given these facts, I shall simply remove, and re-install the boomkin with a good bedding compound. I shall never see those marks when sailing offshore.