bristol 27 build date and trailering.

[ghostwriter247]

I was hoping somebody might help me date the year on a 27 foot bristol. I know its hull 232 but the year is a mystery as when it was originally documented they did not put the year on it.

This might be a dumn question but can you use jack stands on a flat bed to trailer a bristol 27 if they were bolted down in some manner? Ive got a 30 foot flat bed gooseneck and the truck to haul it but am looking for ideas for the supports since im buying the trailer for the boat. Sourcing the adjustable pads are what has me stymied.

I looked into cradles but one yard wanted about $850 for a used cradle for it.

Any ideas on modifying a flat bed to accept the supports or should i just go with the cradle?

Thanks

Josh

[Hirilondë]

I suppose you could weld the poppets to the trailer. The big advantage to a cradle is that you could jack it up in the yard and pull the trailer out from under it. Presto, you are on the hard. Your trailer is now free to go do something else.

[Lloyd]

Josh
I have a short list of a few Bristol 27's. I own #200 which is a 67, list shows #202 as a 67, then the next one is #238 as a 68.
Hope this helps.

[ghostwriter247]

Thanks for the dating! That narrows it down considerably. Hopefully somebody might have a date on either side to figure out 67 or 68

[Quetzalsailor]

Let's hope Chris Campbell signs on to this discussion. I think he's built a cradle for his Yankee 30 and he'll be trucking it again soon.

[Chris Campbell]

I didn't actually build the trailer for my Yankee, but it is a modified skidsteer trailer, with jackstands welded on, and it's working out just fine for me. Here's a couple of photos (click for larger):



Pardon the mess - but note the square steel cross beam which has been added - there are three of those, the other two are further aft.


If you'd like more pictures I can run outside and take some.

Cheers,

[Chris Campbell]

Even if you wouldn't like more pictures, I've run outside and taken some - here they are (click for larger).

Shows the three cross-members which strengthen the trailer where it takes most of the weight (it was originally meant to haul a Triton, with a longer keel, but it's doing fine with a heavier yankee on a shorter keel).


Same view, broader perspective


Side view, closer-up than the last one


Aft crossmembers - note that only the middle one is actually under the keel, but there may be some weight transferred by the 2x8s, although probably not much. Makes me think (the trailer doesn't seem to bend) that the strengthening is overkill, but that's always nice on the highway)


View from aft


Bow support


Cheers,

[ghostwriter247]

Thanks for the pictures. I think with time being what it is im gonna go pick up the cradle and go the flat bed route for now.

does anyone have a bristol out of the water right now? I was wondering what the measurment was from keel to top of the deck to know what the height would be on the trailer.

Thanks for the responses.

Josh

[avd155]

I have a Bristol out of the water right now and a rough estimate to it's height from bottom of the keel to the deck would be about 6ft 6in (maybe a little less - based on walking around the boat). If you need a more exact measurement, e-mail or PM me and I can grab it for you.

This is just another thought, but part of the video on this page ( http://bristol27.com/videos/ ) shows a fairly good idea of what the keel looks like of a Bristol 27. While that's not really the focus of the video, it might give you some ideas.

I'll also say that you should post some images here or e-mail me photos of your Bristol 27 if you get a chance :)

[ghostwriter247]

Thanks for the measurements. I've got a few pics that i will try to get up. its one of the perks of being a professional photographer. a camera is never far away. LOL

Looks like I will go pick up my boat the weekend of the 31st of this month. Im not sure im looking forward to another 18 hour one way trip this month but oh well. Luckily my Father in law has a pole building i can put it in so oila, instant workshop if everything works out.

The hull and decks are sound (no squishiness) but it needs work. I checked the knees and bulkheads and they all looked good and seemed solid. no cushions or engine though. I was pretty amazed at how water tight she was. bilge was dry and water marks look like a some leakage through decks fittings and windows but pretty minor.

She's been neglected but doesnt seem too bad. Ive seen a lot worse for the price.

and so begins the saga...

[avd155]

One great thing about the Bristol 27, is that they didn't run balsa wood all the way to where the hull meets the deck; there's about a 4 - 5" gap. The balsa is completely sealed off from this gap between the hull and deck, encased in fiberglass.

This means that all the stanchion bases, and most places where you would be inserting deck hardware, are actually solid fiberglass. For me, this meant that my boat had very little core damage.

I'm not sure if this is a feature specific to the Bristol 27 design, but it should be used more widely considering how often core rot is a problem.

[ghostwriter247]

I remember when i first started researching sailboats this was recommended and part of what impressed me about the bristol 27 was that they did that. I've been pretty set on the Alberg designs for a couple years and the bristol 27 always stood out as a bargain on the resale market overall for what you got in the little details like that.

Mine has the dinette interior which im warming up to. Although you open the cockpit storage and can see into the quarter berth. Mine also has just the low sill instead of the bridgedeck. I havent decided yet but im seriously considering adding a bridgedeck storage.

one thing at a time though. First i think im gonna hose it down and see if i need to tackle rebedding all the deck hardware

any chance you know who sells the replacement opening portlight for the smaller oval windows? I want to say it was gray by bomar but am not for sure.

[Hirilondë]

Mine also has just the low sill instead of the bridgedeck. I havent decided yet but im seriously considering adding a bridgedeck storage.
.

The primary purpose of a bridge deck has been to make the cockpit volume smaller and the companionway opening above the level of the swimming pool the cockpit becomes when pooped. These make the boat safer. Using that space as storage is simply a prudent decision for the use of space. Whether this is necessary in a coastal cruising boat or not is debatable. It certainly can not hurt. And if you like the idea from a space utilizing perspective, then the added safety is a bonus.

[Rachel]

As Dave alludes to, it all depends on how and where you are going to use the boat. For a dedicated open-ocean cruiser, a bridgedeck is a good idea.

On the other hand, this means you have to climb up and over and back down every time you go in and out of the cabin, whether you are at sea or in a quiet anchorage (which for many people is more often). You also get less light, less ventilation, and less "connection" between a person down below and someone in the cockpit.

As an option, I might consider a method to secure the lower drop board in place in rough weather. Then you have security at sea, yet it's something you can remove in port to enjoy the pleasant aspects of a lower sill.

Granted, a secured drop board will not be as waterproof as a bridge deck, and some water might seep past it, but if it's strong it should keep the green water out until the cockpit can drain (depending on how it is all set up, and on how your cockpit/sill/drains are configured, which I can't see). Then again, it depends on your plans and just how you feel about it. You want a set-up that you feel happy with and confident in, of course.

Rachel

[Hirilondë]

On the other hand, this means you have to climb up and over and back down every time you go in and out of the cabin, whether you are at sea or in a quiet anchorage (which for many people is more often). You also get less light, less ventilation, and less "connection" between a person down below and someone in the cockpit.

"Damned because it's all connected" I forget who says this, it must be someone important. ;-)

[Rachel]

Fig-MENT!

[ghostwriter247]

im definitely gonna put in a bridgedeck at some point, just for the safety aspect. I would like to take it up to the great lakes and the coast maybe next season. for right now ill prolly leave it especially just to facilitate getting in and out of the interior as I work on it and while i do a little lake sailing to get used to it.

[One Way David]

I'm not a boat hauler, but a few comments.

Not all boat stands/jacks are build the same. Some I've seen I'd have no problem adapting to a trailer, some I wouldn't. Consider the static stand forces versus the road jostling forces.

Your inquirery into the height may be a limiting factor. Well, outside of the A, number one all time limiting factor, time.

I'd bet one could fab up a cradle a lot cheaper than $800-900 using timber and steel. Many of the pads I've seen on trailers are the same as used on stands/jacks. The stand/jack idea could also easily be fab'd into a sled to get off the trailer as mentioned above as the cradle is.

Dave.

[ghostwriter247]

Looks like next thursday im heading back to virginia to pick up my boat.

i was wondering about trailer size and bed size.

I've got a 30 foot flatbed gooseneck lined up to buy but unfortunately it was stolen and we may not be able to get it out of impound as its now "evidence" in time to take it. so i may be stuck renting one.

I've noticed that quite a few boats on flatbeds shorter than the boat. My concern is getting to virginia and having it not fit. the cradle is 5 x 10 but im a bit unsure of how long or high the overhangs would be or the height clearance at the front to fit over the neck. For those unfamiliar with the keel size its here http://bristolowners.org/27/B27draw.jpg

Any guesses on where it should be place in relation to the axles for tongue weight? The people loading the boat seemed to have a good handle on how to load sailboats but it would be nice to have a better idea to work out forward clearance for bed size.

Thanks a bunch

Josh