Product for Removing Vinyl Stick-on Letters/Numbers

triton318 · Post by **triton318** » Thu Feb 19, 2009 8:34 pm

Does anyone know of a product that helps remove old vinyl stick-on numbers and letters from a hull? Or a method for doing same?

Thanks.

BristolJonny · Post by **BristolJonny** » Thu Feb 19, 2009 8:59 pm

I think I read somewhere that a little bit of heat will make them peel right off. There is a magical temperature somewhere between warm and hot where the glue will release but the vinyl won't break apart.
Of course I've never tried it myself, but I'm a master lurker, and just recently read the tip!

BristolJonny · Post by **BristolJonny** » Thu Feb 19, 2009 9:00 pm

wow speaking of lurker, my first post!!! Hi everyone, I hope I helped answer your question :)

Post by **Tim** » Fri Feb 20, 2009 7:23 am

A hair dryer or heat gun (turned down rather low) works wonders. A bit of practice will show you exactly how much heat is enough to allow you to peel the letters without them tearing.

Remove any remaining adhesive with solvent.

s/v Groovy · Post by **s/v Groovy** » Fri Feb 20, 2009 11:45 am

I also used some of these to take off the old registration numbers last summer.

http://www.scraperite.com/

triton318 · Post by **triton318** » Fri Feb 20, 2009 9:57 pm

Thanks; I'll try heat this weekend.

Quetzalsailor · Post by **Quetzalsailor** » Sat Feb 21, 2009 8:30 pm

Use the heat gun gingerly and with painters' razor blade holder and nice, new sharp blade (any burrs on a damaged blade will be more prone to scratch the gel coat. Both the vinyl, the glue, and the gel coat will be softened by the heat, and you wish to only damage the vinyl. Experiment with how little heat you can use; one trick is to play it near your fingers(!).

I've done it mostly successfully; I polished the few scratches out with auto polishing compound. Remaining glue can be solved with lacquer thinner w/o damage to the gel coat.

Chris Campbell · Post by **Chris Campbell** » Sun Feb 22, 2009 8:58 am

Acetone ought to soften the glue without damaging the gelcoat, making scraping easier than with heat, I think.

Quetzalsailor · Post by **Quetzalsailor** » Sun Feb 22, 2009 3:09 pm

Neither acetone nor lacquer thinner will destroy the vinyl within a reasonable time. The solvents have to attack the glue from the edges.

(Recall the posts of a couple years ago, lacquer thinner is a varying-by-manufacturer melange of solvents, most of which is acetone.)

The current house project is painting the center hall, all three floors. Lacquer thinner takes even old drips of latex paint apart, thank goodness.

bcooke · Post by **bcooke** » Sun Feb 22, 2009 3:46 pm

(Recall the posts of a couple years ago, lacquer thinner is a varying-by-manufacturer melange of solvents, most of which is acetone.)

I have been told many times by a PhD paint chemist that laquer thinner is a grade of tolulol / tolulene. Acetone is a bit different.

Hirilondë · Post by **Hirilondë** » Sun Feb 22, 2009 4:29 pm

Most lacquer thinners contain tolulol/toluene variations and/or xylene, all of which are very nasty but powerful solvents. If any of these are in a product you use I recommend you read the MSDS for it.

bcooke · Post by **bcooke** » Sun Mar 01, 2009 2:49 pm

I must hang my proverbial head and correct my previous statement about the contents of laquer thinner.

I asked the specific question today to my paint chemist buddy and was told that,

Paint Chemist Guru wrote:"Laquer thinner is a commercial name with no fundamental base components. It can contain any number of solvents and there isn't one that makes it 'laquer thinner'. The actual composition changes every few years as the government regulations on VOC's and other technicalities get changed. In addition, whatever the manufacturer can buy cheapest is a factor. Tolulene (tolulol is just a commercial name for tolulene), acetone, xylene, and a bunch of other solvents can all be used and are frequently substituted as price, availabilities, and government requirements change. If the solvent mixture will cut laquer then it can (and is) packaged as laquer thinner. There is no base material or formula for it."

I retract any former statements on the matter...

Idon84 · Post by **Idon84** » Sun Mar 01, 2009 3:50 pm

When I worked at a vinyl shop signing police cars, commercial vans etc, we used a pressurized steam gun and some of those plastic razor blades linked to above. Get under one part and gently work your way out. I would think you could use an iron too but would be defiantly more dangerous to the surface. Heat guns takes 2nd to the steaming option for me. Granted the heat gun and I have had several bad encounters over the years and I shy away from them.

I think above anything else patience and time. Heat will make the job WAY easier, but cleaning up everything will take time.

When I sold this car because sailing was taking more of my time I spent close to 3 hours removing this 6 layer vinyl Casper sticker I made so I could keep it. Got about 98% of it off without any issues. The 2% was due to impatience, scraping when I should have been heating etc. If I didn't care about the sticker, 45 minutes with steam.

One last thing. If your considering vinyl know that the "metallic" vinyl's are infinitely more difficult to remove. They become brittle over time and even more so with heat. Not impossible, just more patience required. Also don't use designs with sharp corners. Radius corners will adhere better and last longer.

Cheers,

Bluenose · Post by **Bluenose** » Mon Mar 02, 2009 10:40 am

triton318 wrote:Does anyone know of a product that helps remove old vinyl stick-on numbers and letters from a hull? Or a method for doing same?

Thanks.

My experience with vinyl stick-on numbers has been exactly the opposite. I can't keep them on the boat. So the only experience I have for removing them is sailing. Sometimes they just come off. Some are ripped in half in what looks like a failed struggle for life. Every year I sailed the Bluenose I replaced some, but not all of the vinyl number. Never did really figure out why some of the number won or lost the adhesion lottery.

On Bolero I just couldn't bring myself to deface Tim's gorgeous work with those cheap looking vinyl "sitick-ons". I am still in denial on this issue.

Bill

triton318 · Post by **triton318** » Mon Mar 02, 2009 6:54 pm

Bluenose wrote:On Bolero I just couldn't bring myself to deface Tim's gorgeous work with those cheap looking vinyl "sitick-ons".

Maybe you could document Bolero, then you won't need any vinyl stick-on numbers.

Case · Post by **Case** » Mon Mar 02, 2009 7:48 pm

Huh?

I am under the impression that... as long you have no motor, no registration numbers are needed at all! No stickers, no nothing. Just some papers to show the Coast Guard if they deign to bother you.

Maybe its just Maine only. Maine is pretty lassiez faire on these things. Could change soon, though. From my point of view, regulations are not there to make thing safer for people, they are there so the authorities can fine you, make $$ to keep bloated bureaucracies going. It really disgusts me, lets leave it at that.

- Case

Rachel · Post by **Rachel** » Tue Mar 03, 2009 1:06 am

I think it all depends on the state. I've lived in states where, for example, kayaks did not have to be registered; then in other states where they did. Also, I know that in some states you do have to put on numbers even if you are documented (but not others).

Vinyl numbers on Bolero would be very hard to do, I can see that.

Rachel

Post by **Tim** » Tue Mar 03, 2009 7:19 am

Registration numbers are a necessary evil in many states, but get some decent ones made at a sign shop. They usually cost around $10-$20 for the pair. There's no reason they have to be horribly ugly; they can match other graphics and complement the boat if done correctly (not to say that it's not nicer to avoid them).

Many states require registration and number display for all boats. Maine does not for boats with no mechanical power (oars or sail only), and also doesn't require separate registration when a boat is documented, but it's not the norm.

Idon84 · Post by **Idon84** » Tue Mar 03, 2009 3:27 pm

Wa state doesn't require state registration #'s on CG documented vessels or vessels W/O an engine of any kind.

Sign shops are the ONLY place to get custom vinyl. Store bought is of lousy quality. Make sure the sign shop rounds all square corners for best adhesion as stated above. Also there are different grades of vinyl. Talk to you sign shop for details.

I would rather have removable, affordable vinyl than painted on graphics under just about all circumstances. I have never made an ugly piece of vinyl, often times people comment on my vinyl work thinking it was paint from a distance. I love the stuff.

Rachel · Post by **Rachel** » Tue Mar 03, 2009 5:59 pm

Tim wrote:Registration numbers are a necessary evil in many states, but get some decent ones made at a sign shop. They usually cost around $10-$20 for the pair. There's no reason they have to be horribly ugly; they can match other graphics and complement the boat if done correctly

I don't know that this is nation-wide, but in Wisconsin, for example, the registration numbers were required to be 3" high and in block lettering. They were also required to contrast with the hull color*"

*Things I can't remember for sure: Whether it was 3" or 4", and whether the only color choices were white or black; but you get the idea.

Rachel

PS: That's not to say that you shouldn't get a nice, easy to align (they usually come on a single backing sheet all lined up already), set of numbers from a sign shop, even if they do have to be "block" lettering. There's nothing worse than when people just buy those cheap block letters at the corner store, and then they are all catty-wampus.

Post by **Tim** » Tue Mar 03, 2009 6:17 pm

True enough--reg. numbers should be block, but my point was that the colors can match what you might have chosen for the name, such as gold leaf and white outline, or what have you. They don't need to be dull. And there are many "block" letter styles that are far more interesting and still meet requirements.

Hirilondë · Post by **Hirilondë** » Tue Mar 03, 2009 7:03 pm

My registration numbers for RI are the 3" block type as specified. They are black on a white board designed to by hung from my life lines. Doing this hanging board meets the requirements in RI at least. My problem is that I seem to forget to take them out of my hanging locker. They seem to stay there all season. I always remember to re-up my registration and apply the new sticker to the boards. Maybe some day I will remember to display them when I go sailing. Then again, maybe not :>)

Bluenose · Post by **Bluenose** » Wed Mar 04, 2009 11:56 am

Idon84 wrote:Wa state doesn't require state registration #'s on CG documented vessels or vessels W/O an engine of any kind.

Sign shops are the ONLY place to get custom vinyl. Store bought is of lousy quality. Make sure the sign shop rounds all square corners for best adhesion as stated above. Also there are different grades of vinyl. Talk to you sign shop for details.

I would rather have removable, affordable vinyl than painted on graphics under just about all circumstances. I have never made an ugly piece of vinyl, often times people comment on my vinyl work thinking it was paint from a distance. I love the stuff.

Saaaay Whaat?

Is this Christmas come early time? Now all I have to do is find an alternative place for the delightful random color yearly registration sticker?

Thanks for this info.

Bill

Yippee no numbers for Bolero.

forrest · Post by **forrest** » Wed Mar 04, 2009 1:16 pm

Not to be a wet blanket, but this
http://apps.leg.wa.gov/RCW/default.aspx?cite=88.02.030
says of exempt vessels:

(7) Vessels under sixteen feet in overall length which have no propulsion machinery of any type or which are not used on waters subject to the jurisdiction of the United States or on the high seas beyond the territorial seas for vessels owned in the United States and are powered by propulsion machinery of ten or less horsepower;

(8) Vessels with no propulsion machinery of any type for which the primary mode of propulsion is human power;

I have an ongoing debate with a friend over this, so I thought I would finally look it up to put it to rest.

Cheers

David · Post by **David** » Wed Mar 04, 2009 1:52 pm

I think Washington is like Florida, in that documented vessel don't have to display the state registration numbers, but do have to display the annual registration decal.

Idon84 · Post by **Idon84** » Wed Mar 04, 2009 2:19 pm

Bill,

Just contact your local CG Office to ask the questions. I spoke with them last year for the same reason. I didn't like the numbers on my bow either but had to put them there because I would not have passed CG documentation. I didn't have a waste holding tank etc. Your vessel must be up to CG specs. You WILL need to still have the square "TAB" like sticker showing you have paid up through 2010 etc. Check out this link to the frequently asked questions...

http://www.uscg.mil/hq/cg5/nvdc/nvdcfaq.asp#01

There are some limitations, but the CG officer I spoke to was INCREDIBLY helpful in telling me what I needed to do.

Working in the Legislative arena here in Olympia I'm not surprised to find the RCW in contradiction to the national registration laws. Our clubs fleet of 21' Olympic Stars do NOT have a registration numbers, nor does my 17' thistle or my friends 21' highlander. None of which have any "mechanical" propulsion.

Back to the RCW's talking about whom is exempt...
"(4) Vessels that have been issued a valid number under federal law or by an approved issuing authority of the state of principal operation."

This "Federal Law" would be the CG Documentation. Documentation is simply registering the vessels in the USA not just WA state(which you must still do, just no numbers). A local boat policemen isn't looking for the numbers as much as he is looking for the square TAB that shows the expiration date(RED Square in front of #)
From the CG Link above

Documented vessels do not display their official numbers on the outside of the hull, but are identified by the name and hailing port.

Good Luck! My wife and I still want to come up and check her out!

Idon84 · Post by **Idon84** » Wed Mar 04, 2009 2:19 pm

YES DAVID!

David · Post by **David** » Wed Mar 04, 2009 2:41 pm

Bryon,

<< because I would not have passed CG documentation. I didn't have a waste holding tank etc. Your vessel must be up to CG specs. >>

I think all the CG cares about is who owns the vessel, who has liens on the vessel and its intended purpose. I don't think they ask nor care about "inspectable" qualities of the vessel. Basically a recreational vessel must be owned by a US citizen.

Here is a link to the USCG Documentation Center FAQ:
http://www.uscg.mil/hq/cg5/nvdc/nvdcfaq.asp#02

David

Idon84 · Post by **Idon84** » Wed Mar 04, 2009 2:57 pm

Your probably right... I can't find anything that states that in the rules. Can't remember the exact circumstances of the conversation but I remember coming away from the conversation thinking I needed to upgrade the boat first. Canada, apparently, didn't have any issues with vessels that dump waist right overboard like mine. Also my vessel didn't have ANY ID# at all. I used the Canadian Reg. # carved into the interior woodwork as the VIN# when I applied for title here. The CG mentioned that I would need to permanently put that number (small like a vin#) at the top Starboard side of the Stern.

Either way I intend on getting it up to law and documenting.

Good info but wrong topic... Wasn't this about removing vinyl once? Sorry Tim!

Bluenose · Post by **Bluenose** » Thu Mar 05, 2009 12:48 am

Thanks for all the good info about Washington state registration and I apologize for so thoroughly dragging us off topic. In any case I may test the system with a combination of laziness and placing registration letters low on the list.

Cheers, Bill

Good Luck! My wife and I still want to come up and check her out!

By check her out I hope you mean you want to come sailing. She looks nice and all that at the dock but pretty is as pretty does.

Idon84 · Post by **Idon84** » Thu Mar 05, 2009 12:33 pm

VERY TRUE!

Plastic Classic Forum

Product for Removing Vinyl Stick-on Letters/Numbers

Product for Removing Vinyl Stick-on Letters/Numbers

Re: Product for Removing Vinyl Stick-on Letters/Numbers

Re: Product for Removing Vinyl Stick-on Letters/Numbers