Help Un-Stepping Mast - Cal25
Help Un-Stepping Mast - Cal25
Hello All
The mast beam in my Cal25 is sagging a little and I'm debating dropping the mast to replace it. The Cal25 forum is pretty dead, hopefully some one hear can help.
There is some obvious sagging in the beam, but how much is too much? I dont want to take on a job if it's not really needed, but also dont want to put of a potentially serious issue. Is there a rule of thumb, or should I just replace it?
If I decide on replacement, is stepping the mast something I should attempt, or should I man up and pay a marina? There is a good how to on the alberg30 site, http://www.alberg30.org/maintenance/Spa ... ppingMast/ . Any other recommendations out there? It seems reasonable to build a similar rig from from 2x4's, some plywood and then a few blocks and some line.
This sounds like one of those things that seems difficult before you do it, but then it's pretty routine. Am I over thinking this?
My boat is in the water currently, and I would like to keep it that way if possible.
Thanks for any ideas!
The mast beam in my Cal25 is sagging a little and I'm debating dropping the mast to replace it. The Cal25 forum is pretty dead, hopefully some one hear can help.
There is some obvious sagging in the beam, but how much is too much? I dont want to take on a job if it's not really needed, but also dont want to put of a potentially serious issue. Is there a rule of thumb, or should I just replace it?
If I decide on replacement, is stepping the mast something I should attempt, or should I man up and pay a marina? There is a good how to on the alberg30 site, http://www.alberg30.org/maintenance/Spa ... ppingMast/ . Any other recommendations out there? It seems reasonable to build a similar rig from from 2x4's, some plywood and then a few blocks and some line.
This sounds like one of those things that seems difficult before you do it, but then it's pretty routine. Am I over thinking this?
My boat is in the water currently, and I would like to keep it that way if possible.
Thanks for any ideas!
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- Candidate for Boat-Obsession Medal
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c,
my initial thoughts. Removing the mast is a straight forward rigging problem. In the link you showed the A frame was made of a more robust material than 2 x 4's, but then again your mast is smaller. The A frame allows the mast to be suspended free between the legs and then lowered, ensure any plywood gussets do not interfere. Their step by step process is well thought out as long as one does not skip or consolidate steps without experience. Make sure you have somewhere to put the mast once down, it's longer than the boat. I would not attempt alone.
Several questions as far as if the beam should be replaced. In looking at interior photos of the Cal 25, the beam seams to be encased in the headliner and trim. Can you determine if the beam changed over time? Do you sail your in high winds with high loads? Can you see any cracks in the beam itself? What is the beam made of? Is is encased in fiberglass? Is it easy to replace? I hope this helps direct your thoughts. This site is all about intelligently diving in and givin' it a go. So just taking the mast down can be fun.
r
my initial thoughts. Removing the mast is a straight forward rigging problem. In the link you showed the A frame was made of a more robust material than 2 x 4's, but then again your mast is smaller. The A frame allows the mast to be suspended free between the legs and then lowered, ensure any plywood gussets do not interfere. Their step by step process is well thought out as long as one does not skip or consolidate steps without experience. Make sure you have somewhere to put the mast once down, it's longer than the boat. I would not attempt alone.
Several questions as far as if the beam should be replaced. In looking at interior photos of the Cal 25, the beam seams to be encased in the headliner and trim. Can you determine if the beam changed over time? Do you sail your in high winds with high loads? Can you see any cracks in the beam itself? What is the beam made of? Is is encased in fiberglass? Is it easy to replace? I hope this helps direct your thoughts. This site is all about intelligently diving in and givin' it a go. So just taking the mast down can be fun.
r
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- Deck Grunge Scrubber
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In my experience, the most important aspect of dropping or raising a mast is having a sufficient number of warm bodies. A Cal 25 doesn't have a whole lot of mast, so as long as you think it out and plan well there is no reason it can't be an easy stress-free experience.
As to the sag in your beam, it's hard to assess with out seeing a picture.
As to the sag in your beam, it's hard to assess with out seeing a picture.
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- Rough Carpentry Apprentice
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cmartin,
As a former owner of a Cal 25 (and still racing on them...) I'm pretty familiar with dropping the mast. Not a very difficult job depending on where your boat is located. My boat was(is) at a dock which contains about 12 Cal25's but that isn't really necessary. What would be nice is if you have a boat on either side of you that will let you use their spinnaker or jib halyards briefly. If you just run them around the base of your spreaders, unbolt the rigging, lift the mast just a little with the halyards while someone controls the base of the mast it comes down quite nicely.
If not, well that's trickier.
Also, I completely rebuilt the overhead and the mast support beam. I have some instructions that I wrote up years ago and can email them to you if you wish. Again, not as bad a job as you may think.
Best.
As a former owner of a Cal 25 (and still racing on them...) I'm pretty familiar with dropping the mast. Not a very difficult job depending on where your boat is located. My boat was(is) at a dock which contains about 12 Cal25's but that isn't really necessary. What would be nice is if you have a boat on either side of you that will let you use their spinnaker or jib halyards briefly. If you just run them around the base of your spreaders, unbolt the rigging, lift the mast just a little with the halyards while someone controls the base of the mast it comes down quite nicely.
If not, well that's trickier.
Also, I completely rebuilt the overhead and the mast support beam. I have some instructions that I wrote up years ago and can email them to you if you wish. Again, not as bad a job as you may think.
Best.
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - under reconstruction
1988 Mako 26 CC - don't laugh, it needs work too.
1970's vintage Snipe
1970 Islander 37 - sold
1968 Cal 25 - sold but still racing...
Wave Man
1982 C&C 37 - under reconstruction
1988 Mako 26 CC - don't laugh, it needs work too.
1970's vintage Snipe
1970 Islander 37 - sold
1968 Cal 25 - sold but still racing...
Wave Man
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- Rough Carpentry Apprentice
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Rachel wrote: (I can't get the HTML right on this....)
In Annapolis it's referred to as Cal 25 Row. Scroll down to the last picture in my latest post and you'll see most of them in all their faded glory!
Cheers!
Anyway, yeah, now that you point it out, that does sound a bit odd doesn't it? :-oThank goodness, as that can't be very common ;)
In Annapolis it's referred to as Cal 25 Row. Scroll down to the last picture in my latest post and you'll see most of them in all their faded glory!
Cheers!
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - under reconstruction
1988 Mako 26 CC - don't laugh, it needs work too.
1970's vintage Snipe
1970 Islander 37 - sold
1968 Cal 25 - sold but still racing...
Wave Man
1982 C&C 37 - under reconstruction
1988 Mako 26 CC - don't laugh, it needs work too.
1970's vintage Snipe
1970 Islander 37 - sold
1968 Cal 25 - sold but still racing...
Wave Man
Thanks, good info. I'll try to get to the boat for a photo of the beam in the next few days.
Thanks for the encouragement. Sometimes I get in over my head, hopefully this time I'll be at least somewhat prepared.
Thanks for the encouragement. Sometimes I get in over my head, hopefully this time I'll be at least somewhat prepared.
I was down there a few weekends ago. I'm just far enough away to make weekday races a hike. Besides, my boat handling skills stink!Cal 25 Row
- Tim
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The correct protocol for quoting a specific person, if you are choosing not to quote their entire post, is this. The key is the = sign, and the person's name in quotations.Ronin120 wrote: (I can't get the HTML right on this....)
Code: Select all
[quote="Person"]Cut and paste the relevant portion you wish to quote.[/quote]
Person wrote:Cut and paste the relevant portion you wish to quote.
---------------------------------------------------
Forum Founder--No Longer Participating
Forum Founder--No Longer Participating
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- Rough Carpentry Apprentice
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Tim, thanks. I figured either you or Rachel would show me the way.Tim wrote:Following this code protocol will make the quote display in this manner:
cmartin, I'll be back down at Cal 25 Row again this coming Sunday so if you're around I'm sure we can probably go on board my old boat and show you what's involved. Or I could go on just about any of the Cals there because they either need it done or have had it done.
PM me if you wish.
Cheers.
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - under reconstruction
1988 Mako 26 CC - don't laugh, it needs work too.
1970's vintage Snipe
1970 Islander 37 - sold
1968 Cal 25 - sold but still racing...
Wave Man
1982 C&C 37 - under reconstruction
1988 Mako 26 CC - don't laugh, it needs work too.
1970's vintage Snipe
1970 Islander 37 - sold
1968 Cal 25 - sold but still racing...
Wave Man
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- Master of the Arcane
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- Boat Name: Hirilondë
- Boat Type: 1967 Pearson Renegade
- Location: Charlestown, RI
There sure is. I can't see the spot with the pealing varnish well enough to say, but some type of failure is occurring. It seams that the beam is either delaminating of simply being crushed. A close up of the pealing spot after stripping the varnish will tell a lot more. Not sure it matters though, once a laminated beam fails, it needs replacing. Or at the least, sistering up after jacking up the cabin top to its original shape. Not so sure I like that idea though.cmartin wrote:It's hard to capture the scale of the deflection in a photo, but safe to say there is some deflection.
Dave Finnegan
builder of Spindrift 9N #521 'Wingë'
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Gresham’s Law of information: Bad information drives out good. No matter how long ago a correction for a particular error may have appeared in print or online, it never seems to catch up with the ever-widening distribution of the error.
builder of Spindrift 9N #521 'Wingë'
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Gresham’s Law of information: Bad information drives out good. No matter how long ago a correction for a particular error may have appeared in print or online, it never seems to catch up with the ever-widening distribution of the error.
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- Candidate for Boat-Obsession Medal
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A really good article in the current Good Old Boat by folks who routinely drop a bigger boats' (CD 27) mast. Read it and steal the useful parts of their method. The biggest difference between you and them is the 'routine'. You can think of 'one off' solutions for their tabernacle and telescoping gin pole.
I agree with the others: it's time to do the work. Deflecting the deck merely damages more boat.
I agree with the others: it's time to do the work. Deflecting the deck merely damages more boat.