Interior paint recommendations please!

Shoalcove · Post by **Shoalcove** » Sun Feb 03, 2008 2:25 pm

As I wrestle with an oncoming cold, an apparently endless winter and a long list of house projects that can't be delayed another year (she thinks), I escape into the spring worklist. One of the things I'd like to do this year is repaint the white down below. The interior is a mix of teak and white painted surfaces with teak trim. I'm planning to go with an offwhite color and a semi or satin finish and I would like to get some ideas on what other folks have done. I tried searching but every second post here seems to have paint in it!
I remember seeing a post where some one had used house paint inside which seems reasonable. I just refinished a bathroom vanity with Benjamin Moore low luster melamine which layed out to the nicest finish of any paint I had ever used. It looked sprayed on. Has anyone tried that in a boat? I have no pictures but I have aquired a digital camera for Christmas so the future possibility exists... Thanks to all, David

LazyGuy · Post by **LazyGuy** » Sun Feb 03, 2008 4:55 pm

Shoalcove,

For paint down below, all is fair game. It is not much different than a house on the beach. The big concern is if the white down below is Formica or similar high pressure laminate. Benjamin More makes a primer for Formica or you can use one of the LPU primers such as Brightsides primer. From there, all is fair.

For the teak trim, I just re-did mine this spring. Teak oil is hell on sandpaper and the two part teak cleaners are hell on the rest of the interior. The only thing that works is to take a 1" scraper and scrape it down to fresh teak. A quick going over with 180 grit, then 220 grit and you are ready to go with the teak treatment of choice (although for interiors, I am partial to two coats of Teak Oil followed by annual coats of lemon oil because the acid in the lemon oil minimizes the mold.)

Shoalcove · Post by **Shoalcove** » Sun Feb 03, 2008 7:03 pm

Thanks, my interior is mostly plywood and solid teak (1980 CheoyLee) so nothing fancy there to worry about. The teak is all satin finished varnish. With a CheoyLee, familiarity with a varnish brush is unavoidable!
The paint below appears semi gloss, I've been thinking of satin (low gloss) exterior alkyd ? oilbased house paint since there are tinting and availability options not found in Marine paints. Using the melamine paint was considered after seeing how it flowed out. I expect that there may be more input after the big game. Go Pats! Best regards, David

LazyGuy · Post by **LazyGuy** » Sun Feb 03, 2008 8:03 pm

Yup. Not a football fan but I grew up in Boston so how could I not be rooting for the Pats that are behind by 3 points right now but it is still very early.

If you are looking for a marine paint that is easy to use, you will not be disappointed with Kirby paint. A buddy of mine is a wooden boat builder/repair guy. He swears by it. If you do not want shiny paint, Kirby is the way to go.

They also have some excellent "off whites" plus they will mix up anything you want.

By the way, suddenly, the Pats are ahead. 7-3 Yahoo!

Hirilondë · Post by **Hirilondë** » Sun Feb 03, 2008 8:12 pm

For painting wood Kirby is great stuff. It is still made with little automation using old recipes. Great stuff for semi-gloss and satin. I used the water based Awlgrip for my interior fiberglass, came out great.

suntreader · Post by **suntreader** » Sun Feb 03, 2008 8:26 pm

I just finished the second coat of primer on my interior, top coats to come tomorrow. I'm using Sherwin William's products. I'm of the opinion that a good quality oil based enamel from Sherwin Williams or Benjamin Moore is perfect for interior work. Just don't mess with water based stuff and remember that prep work is 90% of a good finish so make sure you do any sanding or priming that is needed. I'd also stay away from the big box store stuff, I go to the Sherwin Williams store and buy the high end oil based enamels.

'House paint' is a pretty broad term, on the low end it could refer to some white latex form the big box store, you wouldn't want that stuff anywhere near a boat. An exterior oil based enamel that you might use on a porch or house exterior is what we mean by 'house paint' for the interior of a boat. Watch out for 'porch' or 'fence' paint, they tend to be pretty low end products great at providing weather protection for a fence but they chalk, and look lousy up close.

David

Peter · Post by **Peter** » Mon Feb 04, 2008 1:06 am

I swear by Zinsser : see details in this link
which includes a post by me extolling the virtues of Zinsser.

My Vega interior is done this way and it's very tough, scrubbabale (is that a word?) and looks great in a satin finish. It's stood the test of time.
I bought it at Home Depot (in Canada, eh!)

triton #227 · Post by **triton #227** » Mon Feb 04, 2008 1:26 am

I used oil based white rustolium. It sticks to any thing and has great coverage, and dries rock hard. I get it at Lowes for $29.95 a gallon.

Shoalcove · Post by **Shoalcove** » Mon Feb 04, 2008 10:05 am

I see there is quite a range of products to do the job. Unfortunately, Kirby Paints are not readily available since I'm in Canada and the shipping would be horrendous. Thanks for the Zinsser tip Peter, I'll look into that. As far as house paint go , I tend towards Benjamin Moore and only use their good stuff in my house so I'll make sure that the boat gets top quality. It's not so much that I'm trying to economize as much as there seems to be very limited marine choices and my experience with some of them has been only so-so. I've used one and two part poly from International, Petit and Ameron as well as enamals from a couple others over the years and none layed out nearly as nicely as the Melamine I used on my bathroom. I wonder if the home market may get a bigger share of the R&D budget and be more suitable than advertised. Best regards, David

Post by **Tim** » Mon Feb 04, 2008 10:18 am

For interiors, I love this semi-gloss Premium Yacht Enamel from Interlux. Outstanding flow and leveling characteristics, and just the right sheen (in my opinion) for interior parts. Full-gloss polyurethanes and other paints just look way too shiny for interiors (and I personally find all one-part yacht polyurethanes to have undesirable application characteristics).

Whatever you choose, get only the best of the line. I have yet to find any top-line paint that isn't worth the extra money when compared to low-or mid-range versions of that same paint line. This goes for any single brand or manufacturer or line that I've used, from latex house paint to linear polyurethane yacht paints.

Rachel · Post by **Rachel** » Mon Feb 04, 2008 1:17 pm

Tim: I had been planning to ask you about the Interlux Premium Yacht Enamel, as I'd noticed that you used in on Kaholee. Now I've got the scoop on this and more.

Peter: I can never see too many photos of the sapele interior of the Vega. I always get a little delightful surprise, because Vegas tend to look rather plain (in a nice practical and purposeful way) on the outside, and then you go below, and "Wow!"

Just for the record, what is the particular Zinnser product you used? I know them as shellac people.

Rachel

Peter · Post by **Peter** » Mon Feb 04, 2008 4:52 pm

Rachael:
I usedthis one in a satin finish.
I call the Vega my "Q" ship :-) Tramp steamer on the outside, luxury inside.

Rachel · Post by **Rachel** » Mon Feb 04, 2008 6:06 pm

Thanks, Peter.

I looked at the Zinsser paint and I see that it is has an acrylic latex base. Charlie J. hasn't chimed in on this thread, but I know that's what he's been using on boat interiors for years, and that he has been very happy with it. From what I understand, it's nothing like the older, "rubbery" latex paints that I've thought would not be good aboard.

And I'm so relieved that no-one will have to make the tragic "sacrifice of décor" anymore:

Zinsser wrote:No need to sacrifice beauty and décor to get guaranteed mold & mildew-proof* paint film protection

I hadn't heard of Q-ships; one learns something new all the time in boating.

Rachel

Shark · Post by **Shark** » Mon Feb 04, 2008 6:13 pm

Shoalcove,

I agree with your comments regarding Benjamin Moore Melamine paint. It levels beautifully and looks like a spray finish if applied carefully. I used a fine foam roller and brush with this paint to refinish a chest of drawers and a small bedroom table. In both cases the results were excellent.

My only caution regarding this paint is that, like most oil-based paints, it yellows over time. I used their gloss white paint. Keep this in mind when selecting a colour for your boat's interior.

CharlieJ · Post by **CharlieJ** » Mon Feb 04, 2008 8:21 pm

Yep- Semi Gloss ACRYLIC latex paints are the ticket as far as I'm concerned. Water base, water clean up, little or no smell. Paint today and sleep in it tonight ( with some ventilation).

Scrubable, durable, little or no mildew problem ( add a mildewcide if you want) and available all over.

What's to not like?

Shoalcove · Post by **Shoalcove** » Tue Feb 05, 2008 10:08 am

The choices keep coming! Charlie, do you use interior or exterior latex paint on your boats? I've seen some photos of your boats and there is no doubt that you wouldn't use a substandard product. All the advice I've recieved has had merit and all seem like good choices. Since I sail with my two kids and a dog I'm anticipating that repainting won't be a one time event. Perhaps I'll be a test bed for all the products!! Best regards, David

CharlieJ · Post by **CharlieJ** » Tue Feb 05, 2008 11:23 am

Well- the paint of choice for years for INSIDE a cabin, has been Sherwin-Williams Incredi-coat. An interior Acrylic Latex. I usually don't mention the brand and type because for some strange reason, Sherwin-Williams doesn't SELL that particular paint nationwide. It's only available, so I've been told, in Texas and Louisiana.

But I'm certain other makers have a comparable paint.

Remember - I only use this in enclosed cabins, NOT on the open boats I build. On the boat I delivered in 2006 ( Core Sound 17) I painted the interior with Easy-Poxy. On the Core Sound 20 I delivered last Dec, I used Brightsides. I really HATE working with Brightsides too. Never have thought much of the paint, but you sometimes use what the customer wants, eh? It's a decent paint, but I've found it gives very poor coverage and is difficult to work with. I really prefer the Easy-Poxy.

I haven't tried the Premium Yacht Enamel Tim mentioned, but I definitely intend to give it a shot. On something of mine- I don't try new stuff on customers boats- grin

Oh- and thanks for the compliments on my boats. However, I think ( so my wife has told me) I'm sorta retiring from the building business, at least for a while. She wants me to take her cruising, so I guess I will have to comply- BIG GRIN!!

Rachel · Post by **Rachel** » Tue Feb 05, 2008 11:30 am

CharlieJ wrote: She wants me to take her cruising, so I guess I will have to comply

I guess sometimes duty calls. Try to make the best of it ;)

CharlieJ · Post by **CharlieJ** » Tue Feb 05, 2008 6:27 pm

ONE more project to finish first. Gotta finish Mark's boat. Then maybe we'll even make it over to see you - who knows?

suntreader · Post by **suntreader** » Tue Feb 05, 2008 11:25 pm

I stand corrected on water based latex, as long as it as the acrylic too. I'll have to check that out. I've used my share of Brightsides, its been my deck paint of choice (with Interdeck for the non-side) and it has held up well. Interior I wanted a satin so that was part of picking the Sherwin Williams product.

I've got to mention the Tile Clad paint one more time, that is the Sherwin Williams marine/industrial epoxy paint. That stuff is unbelievable, thick as syrup, tough as nails, I'm using it in lockers and utility areas (engine room.)

David

CharlieJ · Post by **CharlieJ** » Wed Feb 06, 2008 12:02 am

I've heard of the Tile Clad once before. I will look into that for redoing my own cockpit lockers during this spring haulout.

We HAVE to haul out this year- been three years in May and the bottom paint is really beginning to show it.

We also have Interdeck on our boat- I really like it. When we launched after the restoration we only had time to get one coat on before leaving on a cruise, and that single coat has amazed me with it's durablilty, even on the foredeck where anchor chains have pounded it during several month long cruises. But now it too must be recoated. I suppose three years is a good life span for a single coat huh?

kabauze · Post by **kabauze** » Wed Feb 06, 2008 1:29 pm

I'm using a Benjamin Moore contractor-grade semi-gloss alkyd on Nevermind's interior. It's excellent paint that covers and levels well, and they easily tinted it to match my Formica work. Ben Moore also makes a one-part polyurethane similar to Brightsides (M22) which I'm going to evaluate for fiberglass and maybe decks.

CharlieJ wrote:Yep- Semi Gloss ACRYLIC latex paints are the ticket as far as I'm concerned. Water base, water clean up, little or no smell. Paint today and sleep in it tonight ( with some ventilation).

Scrubable, durable, little or no mildew problem ( add a mildewcide if you want) and available all over.

What's to not like?

I would have loved to go with a acrylic latex, but didn't for these two reasons:
1) Adhesion: If there is old paint on the boat, and you don't know what type it is, latex might not be the best choice. It doesn't stick to old alkyd very well.
2) Later removal: eventually all paints need renewal, and sanding old latex can really be tough. It's soft and clogs paper quickly.

Has anyone has specific experience with latex paints and these two problems?

Summersdawn · Post by **Summersdawn** » Wed Feb 06, 2008 3:17 pm

Adhesion shouldn't be a problem as long as the surface is well prepped and has the recommended primer on it. Think of all the houses that used to be finished in oil that are now latex - the ones done properly are holding up fine.

I have no idea how the new acrylic latex paints sand. Should be easy to test though.

CharlieJ · Post by **CharlieJ** » Wed Feb 06, 2008 8:06 pm

you're talking apples and oranges here. The acrylic latex enamels bear little to no resemblance to the old latex paints. They AREN'T soft and they sand very well. In fact it's a really hard paint. We are preparing to spray paint the rear wall of my wifes art studio tomorrow with an acrylic latex enamel, over an old aluminum siding wall, coated with who knows what. I expect no difficulties.

Just don't compare the acrylic latex enamels to the old latex wall paints- totally different animal.

And you best get used to using them because it ain't gonna be all that many more years before alkyd enamels ( solvent based) begin to really be fazed out, due to EPA requirements.

Rachel · Post by **Rachel** » Wed Feb 06, 2008 8:08 pm

That's what made me not like latex paint; the fact that it was so "rubbery" and hard to sand. But I'm given to believe the acrylic latexes aren't like that. I'll be interested to hear what people who have used/sanded them have to say.

R.

radicalcy · Post by **radicalcy** » Wed Feb 06, 2008 11:32 pm

kabauze wrote: Has anyone has specific experience with latex paints and these two problems?

I used Sears VERY Best exterior latex on the interior of my Columbia Sabre almost 3 years ago. It's still tacky where covered by vinyl cushions. Anywhere it has been exposed to open air, it's fine.
Larry Wilson

CharlieJ · Post by **CharlieJ** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 4:07 am

Rachel- You've sailed aboard Tehani- that's what the interior is painted with. Acrylic Latex enamel.
Sands just like alkyd enamels.
Washes just like alkyd enamels.
LOOKS just like alkyd enamels.

Except it dries faster, thins and cleans up with water and doesn't have the long residual odors of Alkyd enamels.

radicalcy- I'm not at all surprised, but that's a different paint.

Again- do not confuse the regular latex paints with ACRYLIC latex enamels- they are vastly different paints.

Shoalcove · Post by **Shoalcove** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 1:27 pm

I've certainly used a lot of interior latex. We've used Benjamin Moore's top of the line paint in the house for years and really like it. I've shied away from using latex on the boat interior mostly because I had never heard of anyone having done it. I don't mind trying new things but I hate sanding all the paint off the insides of my boat! I used some B-M water based primer and latex paint on my steel front entry this winter and it looks great so perhaps that is the way I'll go. One of the problems with the oil based products are the slow drying time particularly in our cool (cold) Nova Scotian springs. Since the boat is a couple hours away the wet paint really limits what I can achieve on a trip down. The B-M acrylic latex I've used is dry in an hour easily and you could get a couple coats on in a day. Thanks for all the help. David

CharlieJ · Post by **CharlieJ** » Mon Feb 11, 2008 4:40 pm

Well- I looked into Tile Clad. OUCH!!!

Minimum quantity 2 gallons ( 1 gal part A, 1 gal part B), $106 dollars for the two gallons??? WITH my contractors discount!!

I don't think so.

Post by **Tim** » Tue Feb 12, 2008 7:06 am

I hope you never price Alexseal or Awlgrip...

CharlieJ · Post by **CharlieJ** » Tue Feb 12, 2008 9:54 am

Awlgrip's a bit different. I can get that in quarts as needed, plus I'm usually shooting an entire topsides or deck. Or an entire boat if one of the smaller ones I build. In the last 10 years I've painted 18 boats, ranging from a 6'6" dink through one designs and catamarans, up to a 25 footer, so yeah- I'm well familiar with paint costs. I still think Awlgrip is vastly over priced too.

But on the TileClad- I'm sure it's good paint, but painting the cockpit lockers on my boat, plus the bilge area and lazzerette took 1/2 gallon of paint. Now what am I to do with the OTHER 1 1/2 gallons? Just really seems expensive to have to buy 2 gallons at a time, for a 1/2 gallon job.

Particularly when I have lockers, laz and bilge area painted with an acrylic enamel that's 3 years old and still looking fine. That costs 25 bucks a gallon.

bcooke · Post by **bcooke** » Tue Feb 12, 2008 1:43 pm

I still think Awlgrip is vastly over priced too.

*Useless tangent warning*

The only thing that determines price is what the 'market' at large will pay for it. From Awl-grip's point of view, the price they set returns the maximum amount of return. It is a balance between the amount of product sold and the profit per unit sold.

Therefore, the price is exactly where it needs to be.

The fact that we don't like it or won't pay it ourselves is irrevelent.

Besides, 'What the boat wants, the boat gets ... Money is just a silly, nonconsequential, concept'

*end of random useless tangent*

-Britton

CharlieJ · Post by **CharlieJ** » Tue Feb 12, 2008 1:58 pm

[/quote]

Besides, 'What the boat wants, the boat gets ... Money is just a silly, nonconsequential, concept'

-Britton[/quote]

ROFL- yep- that's why neither my wife nor I save receipts for things on the boat, unless they are needed for warranty stuff. Otherwise anything that gets spent on the boat is just spent money.

And she'll spend money for the boat quicker than I will- and I'm not complaining-grin

bcooke · Post by **bcooke** » Tue Feb 12, 2008 2:07 pm

Hehe, unfortunately, I forgot what would happen when I clicked the 'yearly expense report' on my personal finance software. The biggest expense category was 'Boat' with a big red slice on the pie chart.

Wow; no wonder I am broke...

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