I'm in the process of dropping the rudder off of my boat (to replace a worn rudder bearing) and can't get the tiller head off of the rudder post. The tiller head appears to be a solid block that is fitted over the top of the rudder post and held in place by a bolt that screws in from the top. There is a keyway cut into the post that the tiller head slides over. Here is a picture:
I've removed the bolt but some light persuasion with a hammer has been unsuccessful so far. One alternative is to drop the rudder shoe off the skeg and just yank down on the rudder itself to try and get some movement in the tiller head, but I would welcome other ideas. I plan on returning with some liquid wrench tomorrow.
Thanks in advance!
MD
Tiller Head Removal
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- Rough Carpentry Apprentice
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- Skilled Systems Installer
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Re: Tiller Head Removal
Looks like a pulley puller and some tapping would ease that off...
Liquid wrench will certainly help.
Liquid wrench will certainly help.
- earlylight
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Re: Tiller Head Removal
The pulley or gear puller is the tool to use but don't waste your time and money on Liquid Wrench. Use what tha professional mechanics use (either PB Blaster or Kroil). Both of these should be available froma a good automotive parts store.
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- Bottom Paint Application Technician
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Re: Tiller Head Removal
I free up a lot of frozen fittings like that at work. (I'm a motorcycle mechanic) The gear puller is the right tool; put it on, get it spring-loaded tight, and hit the bolt of the tool with a small (3 lb.?) sledge. If you can get a small propane torch to the fitting without damaging what's around it, heat is your friend, especially once the puller is good and tight.
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- Master of the Arcane
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Re: Tiller Head Removal
Yes to the puller, the swatting, and the penetrating oil.
To that add time and patience. Say, a couple weeks with the penetrating oil.
I've left a puller, under load, on my propeller/shaft and it came off several days later.
Be sure you understand the mechanics of your application. Be sure you're pushing against the shaft. Protect the shaft and the threads against damage, perhaps by dropping a few steel washers down the recess. Maybe push against a sacrificial bolt (don't hit it!). See how you can back up the force of the swatting; no sense breaking something or having the force dissipated uselessly. At worst, you are only working with the inertia of the shaft and the rudder; better to add the inertia of a chunk of steel (a larger sledge, for example).
When heating, load the puller up, then heat, then swat it. A mechanic would probably wait till things cool down before reheating; it's the differential heating and expansion of the outside part that is the idea.
To that add time and patience. Say, a couple weeks with the penetrating oil.
I've left a puller, under load, on my propeller/shaft and it came off several days later.
Be sure you understand the mechanics of your application. Be sure you're pushing against the shaft. Protect the shaft and the threads against damage, perhaps by dropping a few steel washers down the recess. Maybe push against a sacrificial bolt (don't hit it!). See how you can back up the force of the swatting; no sense breaking something or having the force dissipated uselessly. At worst, you are only working with the inertia of the shaft and the rudder; better to add the inertia of a chunk of steel (a larger sledge, for example).
When heating, load the puller up, then heat, then swat it. A mechanic would probably wait till things cool down before reheating; it's the differential heating and expansion of the outside part that is the idea.
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- Rough Carpentry Apprentice
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Re: Tiller Head Removal
Thanks. These all sound like good suggestions (and an excuse to buy a new tool). Did not get out to the boat today due to a fever. Perhaps tomorrow.
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- Rough Carpentry Apprentice
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Re: Tiller Head Removal
Great suggestions all around. This what I love about this forum (thanks to Tim especially).
15 minutes with some PB Blaster, a gear puller and a blow torch, and she popped right off. You can see in the picture below the two nickels I used to protect the threaded hole in the end of the rudder post -- excellent way to spend ten cents on the old girl ...
15 minutes with some PB Blaster, a gear puller and a blow torch, and she popped right off. You can see in the picture below the two nickels I used to protect the threaded hole in the end of the rudder post -- excellent way to spend ten cents on the old girl ...