Rotary Nav Light Switch

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Capn_Tom
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Rotary Nav Light Switch

Post by Capn_Tom »

I am trying to finalyze the plan for my winter re-wiring project. In plannng my distribution panel I am bothered by the thought of dedicating 4 breakers to nav lights. It seems to me that a more practicle approach would be a single breaker feeding a 4 position + off rotary switch.

So far my google efforts for such a marine rated DC switch have been unsuccesful. Does anyone know of a source for such a product? A mounting plate with spaces for labels would be great too.

Alternatively, reccomendations on a different solution would also be appreciated.
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cmartin
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Post by cmartin »

The only switch controlling all lights I remember seeing was ~$200, if that matters. I sure hope there are other options.

It doesnt combine all lights, but I like this idea:
http://www.sailorssolutions.com/index.a ... =LEDNAVSW1

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Tim
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Post by Tim »

What about a small separate panel for the nav lights? This one is just a representative suggestion that I found during a quick Google, but it's an idea that I have been harboring for the future.

http://www.borelmfg.com/nav_light.htm

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barrybrown
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Post by barrybrown »

What I have done in the past and will probably do with my current boat is to use a single breaker and separate toggle switches. Admittedly, I like Tim's solution more but not the price.

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cmartin
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Post by cmartin »

Nice find Tim. I looked for something like this earlier this year and this looks like the best solution yet.
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Ceasar Choppy
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Post by Ceasar Choppy »

I think you are looking for this from Aquasignal(?)

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More here: http://www.aquasignal.info/ecat/htdocs/ ... tem_id=655

I really like this switch-- except for the fact that you can't use your deck nav lights while sailing-- since this switch ties them in with the bow or steaming light. Wondering how hard it would be to eliminate that problem?
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Post by Peter »

Ceasar Choppy wrote:I really like this switch-- except for the fact that you can't use your deck nav lights while sailing-- since this switch ties them in with the bow or steaming light. Wondering how hard it would be to eliminate that problem?
The description at Ahoy Captainsays " In every switch position an additional lighting function, such as deck lighting, can be switched on or off by pulling or pushing the switch."
Is this what you need?

Cool switch .... I'll add that one to my re-wire wish list.
Thanks for the link!
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Rachel
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Post by Rachel »

Is it just me, or is everyone confused? I understand the symbols and what they do (propeller adds in steaming, anchor, etc.), but what does the little yellow staysail signify? And what exactly gets added in when you pull?

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fusto
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Post by fusto »

Rachel wrote:what does the little yellow staysail signify?
I'm pretty sure that's a foredeck light not a staysail.
ie: when you pull the switch out you get the foredeck added to your anchor, tricolor, etc. etc.
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Ceasar Choppy
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Post by Ceasar Choppy »

Yup. Pull out for the decklight.

I suppose I could wire it so that the steaming light comes on when pulled out, but it makes sense to have the decklight on that circuit since you may need it an any time. The steaming light is only on when you are motoring.

I have a tricolor and deckmounted navlights. It would make sense for me to wire in tricolor for sailing only but I use either the tri color or the deck-navs when I'm sailing. Wiring it the way they recommend would preclude me from turning on the deck-navs without the steaming light.

The only way I can see this working is to put the tricolor or the steaming light on a separate switch-- which sorta defeats the whole purpose of having everything on this switch. That, and I'd like a solution that does not allow for both tricolor and decknav on at the same time (don't get me started on the yahoos I've seen in sailboats this past summer with both tri and deck navs on).

Still, I think this switch is a great idea... kinda like the light switch on my old Benz.
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Rachel
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Post by Rachel »

Oopsie! Well that makes me look a bit dense. I just looked at it the first time and saw a yellow staysail. Hee.

It does seem odd that you couldn't run deck-level nav lights unless you were steaming. The switch is neat but I wouldn't care for that feature.

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Post by JonnyBoats »

I have a tricolor and deckmounted navlights. It would make sense for me to wire in tricolor for sailing only but I use either the tri color or the deck-navs when I'm sailing. Wiring it the way they recommend would preclude me from turning on the deck-navs without the steaming light.
Why not run the wire for the tri-color from that switch to a follow-on SPDT switch with one position being the tri-color and the other being the deck mounted running lights? That way you are assured that only one or the other will be illuminated, not both.
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Post by Hirilondë »

Ceasar Choppy wrote:
Wiring it the way they recommend would preclude me from turning on the deck-navs without the steaming light.
Reason enough as I see it not to use that switch, as clever as it may seem. Tricolor is really for off-shore. The Coast Guard still hasn't recognized mast top running lights. Not being able to use deck running lights alone, like you have expressed concern about, would be irresponsible if you ask me. The mini panel thing Tim shows allows any combination. It does however leave the responsibility of using only proper combinations up to the operator.
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Post by David »

I like the option of turning on any combination or all lights in an emergency situation.
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Ceasar Choppy
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Post by Ceasar Choppy »

Just a quick hijack/rant here:

Why is it that so many sailors who pride themselves in being so safety conscious and fastidious about things like the COLREGS unlike their powerboat brethren, like to flaunt the rules on proper navigation lights??? I do a lot of night sailing and I've seen it more and more over the last few years.

Usually its just using both tri color and decknavs while sailing. Sometimes its tricolor and steaming light while motoring. But the worst is decknavs, steaming light AND anchor light. To someone who does a lot of night sailing, the latter looks a LOT like a tug pulling a barge less that 200 meters.

So even though you might think the belt and suspenders approach to lighting is a good one, just think how others out there will actually see and interpret (or misinterpret) your lighting configuration. The COLREGS on navlights are pretty simple and there is no reason you need to make a personal exception!
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Rachel
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Post by Rachel »

I hear you, Caesar. The first boat I cruised on, I was just crew, without much to say about the way the boat was run. The skipper felt that it was best to put "all his lights on" at night in order to be seen (I'm not talking about an imminent collision here, either). It drove me nuts. Like, let's just go down the road with headlights and taillights on all four corners of the car, so we're sure to be seen. :tears hair:

I think if I wanted to improve my chances via lighting, I'd stick with the prescribed lights but just get bigger, brighter ones.

Okay, rant off!

Rachel
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Post by Capn_Tom »

I've requested a quote for a complete custom dc panel from mobile marine electrical to include an off + 4 rotary nav light switch. If the price isn't too much more than stock panels I will purchase the custom panel. If the price scares me I may just have them make me up a small nav switch panel.
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Post by Ceasar Choppy »

Let us know the details when you find out. I might be interested in the same or similar idea.
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Post by Hirilondë »

Ceasar Choppy wrote:Just a quick hijack/rant here:


Usually its just using both tri color and decknavs while sailing. Sometimes its tricolor and steaming light while motoring. But the worst is decknavs, steaming light AND anchor light. To someone who does a lot of night sailing, the latter looks a LOT like a tug pulling a barge less that 200 meters.
I don't think many sailors realize that the light configuration tells you what the boat is any more. Again, it is failure to learn the need skills and info. Light patterns are becoming less and less reliable as information as more people invent their own.
Dave Finnegan
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Capn_Tom
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Post by Capn_Tom »

Well the panel quote finally came back. $1300 for an m series dual battery selector, linklite, rotary nav light switch, and 14 breakers. Too rich for my blood. I have the same components from Blue sea plus an auto charging relay and 3 24 hour breakers priced at $760.

Have any of you ever used any of the Blue Sea 360 components? It seems like a way to build a professional looking panel while maintaining flexibility on it's contents.

Individual modules are available from multiple sources but if you want them tied together in a single panel you have to order through one of Blue Sea's "partners". I am curious how the modules connect together and if it's possible to assemble a professional looking panel on one's own.
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Capn_Tom
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Post by Capn_Tom »

I am wiring my panel and the first 4 breakers are 1. Running (deck lights) 2. Tricolor 3. Steaming and 4. Anchor. In my adled mind the plan was to have two running light options, runnning and tricolor. Now that I am actually doing the work I realize I can't follow the ABYC single switch guideline and wire the steaming light and the 2 running light options using breakers alone. I could wire the deck lights with the steaming light and leave the tricolor as the only running light option or I could ignore ABYC and turn on both the steaming light breaker and the running (deck) light breaker when under power. Thoughts?
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Hirilondë
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Post by Hirilondë »

Breakers are primarily for protecting circuits. You could make a switch panel for exterior lights and power the whole thing off of one breaker. This would save breakers for other stuff and still be ample protection, even when a couple lights were on. It would also mean you could use any needed combination of lights and be ABYC compliant.
Dave Finnegan
builder of Spindrift 9N #521 'Wingë'
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Post by Capn_Tom »

I guess what I am doing a poor job of asking is if there is a way to wire the switches so that the steaming switch illuminates the steaming light and the bow and stern lights and the running switch lights the the bow and stern lights. In my head the only way to make this work is to wire just the steaming light to the steaming switch and the bow and stern lights to the running switch and to turn both switches on when under power. This would seem to be at odds with the ABYC single switch rule.
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Post by Tim »

ABYC A-16.6.6 indicates the following:
ABYC A-16.6.6 wrote:EXCEPTION: Auxiliary powered sailboats may use additional switches to satisfy underway conditions for both sail and power.
I think that covers your concern. Clearly there is not a way to make one switch do it all when you require two separate lighting schemes depending on whether you're under power or sail. ABYC has taken this into account with this exception.
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Post by Capn_Tom »

Just in time. Now I can sleep tonight instead of running impossible schematics through my mind!
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