What's needed for a triton trailer?

Ask a question...get an answer (or two).
Post Reply
Doc

What's needed for a triton trailer?

Post by Doc »

*I'm on the hunt for a full keel trailer...

Triton is 8,000lbs and 12' tall by 8' wide-
What size trailer will be safe and can a 3/4 ton Van with V8
pull Triton home from Cali- over the Cascade mt's?

Doc
PDX
User avatar
Tim
Shipwright Extraordinaire
Posts: 5708
Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2003 6:39 pm
Boat Name: Glissando
Boat Type: Pearson Triton
Location: Whitefield, ME
Contact:

Post by Tim »

A 3/4 ton van should be sufficient for pulling the weight of a Triton and trailer, but be sure it is equipped with the proper hitch, receiver, and ball for the job. Figure on at least an overall trailer weight of 10,000 lb.

Also, be sure that the trailer's tongue weight is not only within the proper range for the vehicle and the hitch receiver, but also is appropriate to ensure safe handling characteristics on the road. For proper handling the tongue weight should be within a certain percentage of the overall trailer weight (offhand, I forget how much), and must also be within the weight rating of the vehicle's hitch.
---------------------------------------------------
Forum Founder--No Longer Participating
Guest

Post by Guest »

Tim..

Is there a certian size trailer that will work good for triton?

10,000lb rigged for full keel? center skid for ballast..
Sometimes I see duel axle's and then tripple axles!

Doc
User avatar
Tim
Shipwright Extraordinaire
Posts: 5708
Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2003 6:39 pm
Boat Name: Glissando
Boat Type: Pearson Triton
Location: Whitefield, ME
Contact:

Post by Tim »

So much depends. It depends on the axle ratings--dual axles should be fine, as long as they are rated for at least 5,000lb. each. There's probably not a need for triples, unless the axles used happened to have lower weight ratings. Much depends on the tires, rims, and frame.

One can make any number of rigs work for the task at hand. How effective they are and how safe for the chosen task are other topics. There's no one right answer, but there sure are a lot of wrong answers.

Short-distance hauling can be made with much scarier rigs than a longer trip. A breakdown is annoying to the tower, but could be very dangerous to unsuspecting passers-by, or other motorists. Just keep that in mind, no matter what trailer option you choose.
---------------------------------------------------
Forum Founder--No Longer Participating
Figment
Damned Because It's All Connected
Posts: 2846
Joined: Tue Apr 08, 2003 9:32 am
Boat Name: Triton
Boat Type: Grand Banks 42
Location: L.I. Sound

Post by Figment »

This is for a one-time trip? I gotta think that you could hire a yacht hauler for half the cost of building your own trailer, no?

When I bought Figment I had to transport from Annapolis to Connecticut. I happen to own a tractor. I had a loaned lowboy flatbed trailer. I still found someone else who did the haul for less than what my remaining costs (cradle, fuel, tolls) would have been.
Guest

Post by Guest »

Thanks.. Towing my prize 600 miles during winter
with zero experiance requires some prudent caution..

The triton will be in California Hyway Patrol country!

Much of the trip is Interstate.. but there are some
tall pulls uphill at the Oregon border. possible Ice too..

My Old man told me he would kick my *ss if I wound up
a trucker like him.. So.. word to the wise is sufficient!

*Now.. wish he hadn't parked the rig and took off the
doubleclutch'n workboots....

Tim, *I know a boat is in my future and it'll be somewhere
San Francisco to Seattle/Vancouver

this Modesto Triton fired me up, but it may not be my boat..

(Now play'n *Faded Love)

Doc
bcooke
Master of the Arcane
Posts: 2272
Joined: Sat Oct 04, 2003 10:55 pm
Boat Name: Jenny
Boat Type: 1966 Pearson Triton
Location: Rowley, MA
Contact:

Post by bcooke »

Much of the trip is Interstate.. but there are some
tall pulls uphill at the Oregon border. possible Ice too
I used to live in those hills. They are going to require some serious pulling power and braking. Commercial hauling would be the way I would go too. With a big engine (hopefully diesel) it will make it -slowly- but you need to think of the transmission. Plus you are going to need some serious trailer brakes. I would say everything is going to get real hot and there is definitely a risk of doing permanent damage to the tow rig. Throw in winter weather and I would go commercial. You might find they are not as expensive as you would think. You might even be able to get by with a jury rigged trailer and an underemployed logging trucker. Or better yet, just make the phone call, write the check, and watch TV while your boat makes the trip.

-Britton
User avatar
Tim
Shipwright Extraordinaire
Posts: 5708
Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2003 6:39 pm
Boat Name: Glissando
Boat Type: Pearson Triton
Location: Whitefield, ME
Contact:

Post by Tim »

Britton brings up a point that I should have mentioned, becase it's one of the most important aspects of trailering: braking!

Going downhill is often more of a problem than going uphill. You absolutely need excellent engine braking when you get into the 10000 lb. trailer territory (plus the weight of the tow vehicle). You can't rely on braking alone--they'll burn out on long grades if used excessively. Diesels far outperform gassers when it comes to engine braking, but either way low gearing is recommended to prevent excess speed buildup going down a long grade. Remember that this hypothetical load exceeds the weight of the probable tow vehicle by 50% or more, and you can start to see the forces at work. Do not underestimate the potential for disaster on a long downhill slope. Trailer brakes are required, but are still insufficient in extreme circumstances (like long downhill grades) without the help of a low gear.

The long and the short of all this is as Figment said: if you really want the trailer long-term, then by all means build or buy yourself one that is suited to the job. For a one-time haul, where you don't already possess the bones of a trailer that you could possibly make to work, transport by a pro is the best bet. Costs have risen thanks to the increased fuel costs of late, but it's still remarkably reasonable.

Sketchy trailers can be OK for light loads and very limited, local use. For any serious road trip, a good trailer is always worth it. Such a trailer requires a substantial investment in money or time, or both. Transport costs are part of the deal when finding project boats, and are something that must be lived with.
---------------------------------------------------
Forum Founder--No Longer Participating
Guest

Post by Guest »

Heard and understood..

*Pro-Hauler is the way to go..
Safe- Sure.. and cost's what it does,
because that is what you buy.


A "Homebrewed" Trailer may be something tangible
that I can build while waiting for the next Triton deal
to "arrive"...

I'm not without resources or talent<G>

Doc
windrose
Candidate for Boat-Obsession Medal
Posts: 302
Joined: Mon Nov 24, 2003 8:50 am
Location: Shady Side, MD

Post by windrose »

I went the route Figment mentioned.... I bought a flatbed trailer for a backhoe/skid steer took it to a welding shop and had heavy duty mounts attached to it so that the cradle could be mounted on it. Then the cradle could also be removed and the trailer once again used to move heavy equipment .... much easier to resale and can be used for other things.

You might also be able to get a "back-haul" with a Pro if you live somewhere that boats are regularly moved to and from.... I have done this also and saved 1/3- 1/2 of the haul bill. Good luck.
s/v Wind-rose
Pearson Triton #215
West River, Chesapeake Bay
Guest

Post by Guest »

windrose wrote:I went the route Figment mentioned.... I bought a flatbed trailer for a backhoe/skid steer took it to a welding shop and had heavy duty mounts attached to it so that the cradle could be mounted on it. Then the cradle could also be removed and the trailer once again used to move heavy equipment .... much easier to resale and can be used for other things.
.
Did you have to extend the tongue of the trailer... *Or did the
cradle provide enough height for the bow to clear the tow vehicle?

How high over all is a Triton on a trailer?

Doc
Guest

Post by Guest »

windrose wrote:I went the route Figment mentioned.... I bought a flatbed trailer for a backhoe/skid steer took it to a welding shop and had heavy duty mounts attached to it so that the cradle could be mounted on it. Then the cradle could also be removed and the trailer once again used to move heavy equipment .... much easier to resale and can be used for other things.
.
Did you have to extend the tongue of the trailer... *Or did the
cradle provide enough height for the bow to clear the tow vehicle?

How high over all is a Triton on a trailer?

Doc
windrose
Candidate for Boat-Obsession Medal
Posts: 302
Joined: Mon Nov 24, 2003 8:50 am
Location: Shady Side, MD

Post by windrose »

The foot slopes up so quickly that when the boat was centered on the cradle and the cradle was positioned properly on the truck (I had a F350 super duty diesal at the time) there was more than enough room between the truck and trailer.

I repeat the advice that has been offered.... it is not the pulling, IT IS THE STOPPING! Pucker factor 10! Slow and easy, slow and easy.
s/v Wind-rose
Pearson Triton #215
West River, Chesapeake Bay
Guest

Post by Guest »

windrose wrote:The foot slopes up so quickly that when the boat was centered on the cradle and the cradle was positioned properly on the truck (I had a F350 super duty diesal at the time) there was more than enough room between the truck and trailer.

I repeat the advice that has been offered.... it is not the pulling, IT IS THE STOPPING! Pucker factor 10! Slow and easy, slow and easy.

Read you loud and clear-

The cradle.. slid on the flatbed with a winch/jack or was it lifted with fork truck's? made of wood?

also.. 13'6" is max legal for I-5
How tall after loading was your triton?

Doc~
windrose
Candidate for Boat-Obsession Medal
Posts: 302
Joined: Mon Nov 24, 2003 8:50 am
Location: Shady Side, MD

Post by windrose »

The cradle I bought was of tubular steel with 6 adjustable poppets. (I bought it from a bone yard, if there are such places in your area they will have plenty to choose from, cheap...I think I paid $300 for it and it was one of the higher priced, better made cradles) It could be lifted by having one person on each corner. I had heavy metal braces welded and thru bolted to the the cradle and removable through bolted ones mounted onto the trailer.

The keel rested on a 6"x6" on the trailer. I was well within both the height and width restrictions for highway driving.

One of the good things about going this route is the trailer will already have good brakes on it because it is made to pull heavy equipment. Good luck.
s/v Wind-rose
Pearson Triton #215
West River, Chesapeake Bay
Bob L
Rough Carpentry Apprentice
Posts: 72
Joined: Mon Nov 08, 2004 8:45 pm

Post by Bob L »

I just towed a 26' S-2, 4800lb displacement, from Long Island to North Carolina with a Chevy Silverado 1500 (using the bumper hitch!). It had an automatic and V-6. It would go 65mph, but no more. The trailer I bought (which is now for sale) is a 24' aluminum job with surge-actuated disc brakes (on the forward axle only) and a 10,000 capacity. See photos. The minimum bid I got from a professional mover was around $1700.

The trailer cost me $3500, plus $700 in expenses (two nights in a hotel [plus two in the back of the truck], travel lift, tolls, gas, food, beef jerky). If I get my $ out of the trailer, I will have saved some money, but not enough to matter. If I had to rent a UHaul truck, the economics would have been totally blown.

The best part about doing it myself (other than modifying the trailer) was control over the process. I thing a professional mover would have just tossed the boat on and then drove off, leaving stuff behind, or not securing the inside. I just don't trust other people to do things for me. Also, the boat is now mobile until I put it in the water. I can take it places to have things done, find a better deal for parking etc. without paying $ for a short move. (I found a cheaper trailer, half the price, and tiny bit smaller, that will be it's permanent "hurricane hole".

If you are still considering doing it yourself, see if you can leave it where it currently is for a few months, even if you have to pay a few hundred bucks. That way you'll have time to find a real deal on a trailer - that's the key. Look on eBay. You'll need tandem axel at least, surge brakes on both axels, torsion bar suspension and good trailer tires (not automotive, no dry rot). Then start sucking up to a friend with a truck with a big engine, preferably diesel. Standard transmission would be nice too. (A tow truck or horse hauling truck would be good.) You should also consider the height, and have someone like AAA plan a route for you.

Once you drive for a 100 miles or so you become "one with the rig" and it isn't too much of a problem. Driving at night and/or weekend is best.

If you like the idea of having a trailer after the move (good for me in hurricane country), I wouldn?t rule out DIY. But find the time to do it economically. If you want to see pics, send me an email at robert^^^^^langhorst@charter.net (remove the ^^s - antispam measure).

Bob
[/img]
Bob L
Rough Carpentry Apprentice
Posts: 72
Joined: Mon Nov 08, 2004 8:45 pm

Post by Bob L »

The trailer you need is on eBay, reserve met, currently $900, and in Seattle.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 74742&rd=1
windrose
Candidate for Boat-Obsession Medal
Posts: 302
Joined: Mon Nov 24, 2003 8:50 am
Location: Shady Side, MD

Post by windrose »

Surge brakes are illegal in some states.... better check out where you are hauling the ol gal. Electric brakes would be first choice.

I would also be cautious about those mobile home axles, I have a friend that is in the business of moving mobile homes for a living. I was told to never travel near one on the interstate that the axles are way under-rated and are simply an accident waiting to happen. I was instructed to pass it and get away from it as quickly as possible....yikes...not what I want to trust my good old boat to.

Bob is right about having the mobility....it sure is a nice thing.

Good luck.

When the problem of moving the boat came up for me, their were several folks needing a trailer. May still be that way, you might consider "co-op"ing with some folks or renting one from someone....or you may even want to buy one that you could then rent out to folks when you are not using it. There is a definant market.

I have a hard time spending $$ on professional haulers, I have done it when I absolutely had to, but it feels like I am just blowing money that if I could somehow get the boat moved could go to better things. $2000 buys a lot of epoxy, plywood, paint, etc.... If we were "loaded" we would not be rehabbing an old boat....some of us might still be, anyway :)
s/v Wind-rose
Pearson Triton #215
West River, Chesapeake Bay
Tony
Skilled Systems Installer
Posts: 223
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2003 8:14 pm
Boat Name: S/V Bonnie Blue
Boat Type: Catalina 22
Location: Portland, Oregon
Contact:

Post by Tony »

Ahh..mobile home axles>

Whe we bought Solace, she came on a DIY trailer that was built with these axles. We sold the trailer, since we didn't need it and need the $$.

The following year, the guy we sold it to had taken a boat to baja, and was on the way back (with an empty trailer, thank God!) when one of the axles literally broke in half. The trailer is still in baja pending repairs during their next visit.

Keep in mind, this was an old trailer, but if you get one, make sure you have a qualified individual inspect all the welds, etc to make sure it's really going to be reliable.
Last edited by Tony on Wed Dec 15, 2004 6:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Tony
Doc

Post by Doc »

Tony wrote:Ahh..mobile home axles>

Keep in mind, this was an old trailer, but if you get one, make sure you have a qualified individual inspect all the welds, etc to make sure it's really going to be reliable.
Right on..

Here's where the process is leading-

*Before the "Boat Deal".. I need to figure out a trailer and
a winter moorage in the yard. I'm not totaly without resources
in getting a simi-professional trailer built, as a "Buddy" owns a trailer
building facility and I have a sweet '28-9 Ford rat rod project
to trade. Tim seemes to lead the way with his tall pole barn and
hunt for a trailer.

The first sport to master, is... *Prepare ye the way for the
arrivial of the "Mystery Yacht"... keep hunting but also start
the barn build with the measurements of a 30' boat in mind.

Keeping a generic classic plastic Yacht in mind as the goal..

I'd go with a flatbed and cradle situation. When the boat
is hauled it gets set in the cradle on the trailer. When the boat
is in the water.. I have a big flatbed to loan or use for hauling.

*Thanks for firming up the planning..

BTW- *ego brused just a bit by getting kicked out of a marina
on sauvies island for just walking on the dock... It made me
wonder what kind of club I'm working to join. Right before was
a string of 45' bluewater boats.. some green with moss and lines
black with weather- derilct ect.

"Hey you.. we don't want you "looking" this is privet property!"

*If being a a-hole is required- forget it.

Doc
Vancouver/Portland
Tony
Skilled Systems Installer
Posts: 223
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2003 8:14 pm
Boat Name: S/V Bonnie Blue
Boat Type: Catalina 22
Location: Portland, Oregon
Contact:

Post by Tony »

Doc,

I live on Sauvie Island...which marina were you at? Was this the one right at the turn onto Reeder road? (Just curious, since I was considering moving to that marina. We keep our boat at Jantzen beach right now). The only other "marina" I can think of is the set of docks out by the nature preserve that PYC runs. They are REAL boat snobs...they've even turned out people from those docks (which are only used maybe 5% of the time) who had mechanical failures and needed help.

Gee, it's great to have someone on this board who actually lives close by :-)

Tony
Tony
Post Reply