Rachel wrote:I should add: Wow, that is quite the thorough sanding job! Nice!
Now that you're really experienced, what tools, attachment, and/or sandpaper ended up being your "favorites"? (I know, I know, you're rolling your eyes at that concept.)
I was waiting to see if anyone else would reply on the Zinsser product, because I only really have a half-answer. That is that I didn't think shellac was so hot on a boat, because it's not very water resistant. That said, this may be modified, and also it might not be so important if you're going to be painting over it.
But, like Quetzalsailor, I believe there would be other primers that would work well. You probably already know this, but Interlux has a good tech help line (of course they'll recommend an Interlux product, but it might be useful information). They're at
www.yachtpaint.com
Rachel
Thanks Rachel,
Most of the work was done with 40 grit on a 5 inch disk. Then a quick once over with 80 grit and 120. I used GatorGrit disks found at Lowes and was impressed at how long each lasts. I also used that Norton -wire-wheel thing on the woven roving.
You know, for the shellac, I was under the same impression. I remember leaving rings when a glass of water left on a shellac covered surface, but Hamilton Marine has a copy of an article from Febuary 08 Wooden Boat Magazine regarding the use of shellac. I can't find the actual article on line, but found a second hand quote:
"(on treating end grain) Herreshoff boats, many which were double planked were so treated and after 70 to 80 years there is NO ROT !! U.S. Dept of Agriculture calculate that three coats of Shellac are 87% effective against the movement of water vapour into or out of wood, compared with 73% for varnish and 21% for Linseed Oil. Shellac effectiveness as a moisture barrier as well as its resistance to oil make it excellent as a sealer.Shellac dries in minutes. "
This made me think I'm underestimating shellac. I've used it extensively in my house as a primer..though my house stays relatively dry.
For a primer, I went against my gut feeling yesterday and bought a ridiculously expensive Interlux Pre-Kote primer. Even though I expect any good quality alkyd primer would work well with the Interlux Yacht Paint, the fear that some odd incompatibility issue would surface six months out did me in. I think I'll test the primer on a small section of the plastic laminate for adhesion first.
You noticed the work on the sole! Actually, those aren't sanding blocks, or high traction flooring boards, they are Interlix Flooring Adhesive Helpers #5678 designed and tested to work perfectly with Interlix Sub-Kote Sole Stiker. It can be bought at any Marine store. I know it looks like a cinder block, but each one is hand crafted from a secret composite blend of materials. I didn't mind paying $75 each. I figure I can re-use them for other projects.
