Wrinkled Varnish
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- Bottom Paint Application Technician
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Wrinkled Varnish
Help.
Sorry to start another varnish thread but I'm a little stuck. Tried searching and didn't get what I needed (I'm sure super search Rachel could find the answer!)
I decided to apply west system before varnishing with Epifanes (old wood needed filling and sealing) I did three identical pieces and got great results on one and wrinkles on the Varnish coats of the other two. I might have applied the Epifanes too thickly
Can I wait for the Varnish to dry and sand flat, then re-apply, or do I need to remove the varnish back down to the epoxy?
Sorry to start another varnish thread but I'm a little stuck. Tried searching and didn't get what I needed (I'm sure super search Rachel could find the answer!)
I decided to apply west system before varnishing with Epifanes (old wood needed filling and sealing) I did three identical pieces and got great results on one and wrinkles on the Varnish coats of the other two. I might have applied the Epifanes too thickly
Can I wait for the Varnish to dry and sand flat, then re-apply, or do I need to remove the varnish back down to the epoxy?
Steve
"Good Hope"
Tripp/Lentsch 29
"Good Hope"
Tripp/Lentsch 29
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- Skilled Systems Installer
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Sounds like solvent entrapment to me. You're just going to have to sand it down 'til it's smooth and revarnish. Sometimes when you sand, you'll break thru the outer surface into still wet varnish. Wipe the wet stuff away with some mineral spirits, sand, and revarnish.
Celerity - 1970 Morgan 30
How much deeper would the ocean be without sponges in it?
How much deeper would the ocean be without sponges in it?
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- Candidate for Boat-Obsession Medal
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Steve, I'm not sure you have to wait until the wrinkles dry. Tim showed me a little scraping tool that you use to scrape drips off with. It worked quite well for me on my drips and it might work on your problem too.Steve'O wrote:Thanks Balance I was hoping someone would say that.
I'm going to have to wait until the wrinkles dry out which might take a while (it's been a week already) I might just use the pieces the way they are and sand flat this winter.
http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/4,1303.html
I have a couple of Pro-Prep's regular sized scrapers (only slightly larger, actually) and I love them.
The one potential problem that comes to mind with scraping wrinkles vs. drips is that with the wrinkles being over a larger area you might run a bigger risk of scraping down (shudder) to bare wood. Drips can kind of "pop" off while just contacting the center of the scraper, but wrinkles might not (?)
That said, it may not be a concern with the epoxy base - I don't typically use that as a varnish base so I'm not sure about that.
The one potential problem that comes to mind with scraping wrinkles vs. drips is that with the wrinkles being over a larger area you might run a bigger risk of scraping down (shudder) to bare wood. Drips can kind of "pop" off while just contacting the center of the scraper, but wrinkles might not (?)
That said, it may not be a concern with the epoxy base - I don't typically use that as a varnish base so I'm not sure about that.
Last edited by Rachel on Thu Jul 17, 2008 12:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- Candidate for Boat-Obsession Medal
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Steve, yes it saves time sanding through a mound of hardened varnish and in my case, helped keep me from over sanding.
Rachel, I just decapitated them then sanded, but for a larger area, like a run you might just scarpe them level, let it dry and then sand. This might help with the "bare wood" problem. The problem I had in sanding drips without scraping is I usually sanded through the surrounding varnish before I got the drip leveled.
But then I'm not the expert on varnishing so for the final word Tim would be a much better person to ask than I.
I did find that varnishing was quite enjoyable though, you go through these stages of it looks better, it looks even better, it looks great. Quite satisfying actually. :)
Rachel, I just decapitated them then sanded, but for a larger area, like a run you might just scarpe them level, let it dry and then sand. This might help with the "bare wood" problem. The problem I had in sanding drips without scraping is I usually sanded through the surrounding varnish before I got the drip leveled.
But then I'm not the expert on varnishing so for the final word Tim would be a much better person to ask than I.
I did find that varnishing was quite enjoyable though, you go through these stages of it looks better, it looks even better, it looks great. Quite satisfying actually. :)
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- Wood Whisperer
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From my perspective, after 28 years in the furniture refinishing business, and quite a few years doing boats, I'd let the wrinkled stuff dry WELL, then sand it. Scraping might work ok, but you do run the risk of scraping too far on something like that. It's different than taking off a drip or run. Plus you may find that you still had little tell tale lines where all the wrinkles were, so you'd STILL have to sand the underlying surface, which you need to do anyway.
If you don't wait long enough you can just get into more problems and wind up taking longer to do the job than if you waited, then redid it.
If you don't wait long enough you can just get into more problems and wind up taking longer to do the job than if you waited, then redid it.
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- Bottom Paint Application Technician
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Thanks Charlie. I'm going with your suggestion. I have a coat of west system down and two coats of varnish so that should be enough UV protection for the epoxy . I'll put the wood back on the boat for the remainder of the season and sand her flat over the next winter. That should give the varnish plenty of time to dry out. Even with the wrinkles the exterior wood looks a 1000times better pictures to follow...
Steve
"Good Hope"
Tripp/Lentsch 29
"Good Hope"
Tripp/Lentsch 29