Teak plywood inlay in locker seats

Post photos and descriptions of your ongoing projects here. No project is too big or too small.
Post Reply
vanguard64
Rough Carpentry Apprentice
Posts: 54
Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2018 5:28 pm
Boat Name: Alegría
Boat Type: Alberg 30

Teak plywood inlay in locker seats

Post by vanguard64 »

My 1970 Alberg 30 Mk2 (liner boat) has teak veneer ply embedded into the cockpit locker seats. The teak veneer is gone from years of sanding and the wood is degraded. One of the options I have been thinking about is to remove the plywood inlay and treat it like a deck core job. My concern is whether there is enough width around the perimeter of the inlay area to grind down and adhere the new cloth on top of the new core. Any tips or other ideas are appreciated.

Marcelo Gentinetta
#441
Attachments
IMG_0049.jpg
IMG_0048.jpg
User avatar
pmnfernando
Candidate for Boat-Obsession Medal
Posts: 329
Joined: Tue Sep 08, 2020 9:45 pm
Boat Name: Katie J
Boat Type: Van de Stadt Pioneer 9

Re: Teak plywood inlay in locker seats

Post by pmnfernando »

you could do a female mould plug out of the whole locker lid, and then laminating a new lid inside it. you would have accurate dimensions.

if you want to keep as much wood/original material as possible, you could use the same female mould plug to bridge the areas where you had to remove extensive damage, knowing that you have the exact copy of that section to be laminated again, filled with thickened epoxy to give it a bit of "body".
User avatar
atomvoyager
Moderator | Revitalizer of Classics
Posts: 421
Joined: Thu Jul 12, 2018 7:48 am
Boat Name: Atom
Boat Type: Pearson Triton
Contact:

Re: Teak plywood inlay in locker seats

Post by atomvoyager »

I once did a relatively quick repair on one of these A30 seat lids when it was just the top couple plys that were loose and peeling. I ground off the damaged area and ground the fiberglass edge down just past the gelcoat and then built up new glass that overlapped onto the fiberglass for the inch or two that was available and that was good enough. Then faired and painted them. If you have to grind out deeper than say 1/4" then I would add a layer of whatever thickness ply or other core material I needed and put glass on top as above. In this application you don't need to worry that the fiberglass trim area is too small for a good bond.
Post Reply