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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Fri Nov 12, 2021 8:00 am
by pmnfernando
the keel bolts look new.
if it wasnt for the condition of the nuts, washers and end top portion of the bolts, this whole step would have been have been avoided.
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Fri Nov 12, 2021 11:18 am
by CapnK
Wow, nice! Amazing, really, for 60 years of age!

Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2021 9:02 am
by pmnfernando
no photo today as i am still head scratching......
ive grinded the bottom of the keel, no bolts are showing, they must be all tapped into the iron....
.....meaning.....ive (literally) screwed myself big time but cutting them flush.
im having a friend weld a rod so that we try and unscrew them tomorrow, if that fails then i guess i need a mag drill, drill it them out, and tap new bolt a size up from the current ones.

i read somewhere that the minimum thread size should be 2.5 x the diameter of the bolts at the minimum. let me know what you guys think

Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2021 9:02 am
by atomvoyager
I'd do everything possible to get the bolts out rather than tap new holes because that be easy.
The wooden boat guys on the following thread say at least 1 1/2 bolt diameters plus room for the taper at the end of the tap:

http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread. ... -iron-keel

Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2021 8:33 am
by pmnfernando
bolts out!!

at least the 6 main ones. 1 inch thick.
the only 2 that i am unable to take out are the 2 that i try do drill out, the fwd one (19 mm) and the aft one (12 mm)
i think i will have to drill them out. not particularly fussy about the aft one, but defo want to replace the fwd bolt
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2021 10:04 am
by atomvoyager
If you have trouble drilling them out, say in case they are hardened steel, you may be able to sister in new bolts in new tapped holes nearby.

Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Wed Nov 17, 2021 2:49 am
by pmnfernando
i was able to dril them with HSS drill bit. had i kept quiet those bolts would ve been out by now.....
the main issue is to drill it as close to vertical as possible, i bought a portable drill press/guide to help out in the beggining. not really sure if its going to deliver.

i am trying to shy way from sistering, as i would like to use the hole in the keel stub instead of filling it and opening a new one. but perhaps i will have to go down that road.

for the keel treatment my schedule will be:
wire brush it
apply Primocon (1st layer with brush, 2 other layers with roller)
fair it

and after some research decided to actual laminate 1 layer of glass cloth on it
3/4 coats of plain epoxy resin
epoxy primer
bottom paint

the plan is to do it with the keel inverted so i can reach the bottom and sides in 1 go. the top will be done after and overlapping the layers.

this will force me to get a decent rubber mat in which to roll the keel so i dont scrape the products off of it

Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Tue Dec 14, 2021 8:46 am
by pmnfernando
bilge floor, before and after
did a couple of straight epoxy pours to level most of the surfaces, then applied thickened epoxy beneath the 6mm thick G10 sheet., finally one layer of biaxial cloth was laminated on top.
need to knock some peelply bubbles, fair some rough spots and on to paint.! will dril the keel bolt holes from outside
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Tue Dec 14, 2021 8:47 am
by pmnfernando
this is actually 2 boards butt joint together to make final lenght of 2.4 meters
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Tue Dec 14, 2021 8:56 am
by pmnfernando
keel up right
got it done this morning. some nasty dings from trying a controlled roll over (which didnt went so well..) but nothing that some sanding and fairing wont cure.
the red pain is antifoul. decided to paint some AF while i had good access (will touch up right before splash)
the green stuff if epoxy primer, the brown in some fairing, near the top is still on bare fibreglass as i will be laminating a continuous strip of cloth around the keel to protect the hull-keel joint.
the very top received a couple coats of primocon and 2 layers of cloth today.
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Wed Dec 15, 2021 9:52 am
by pmnfernando
nose piece out

was expecting a bigger fight so cant really complain
the piece is chromed bronze but it has been painted 3 times already
im having it chromed again to go with the stainless guardrail i will install at a later stage
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Wed Dec 15, 2021 9:59 am
by pmnfernando
also wasnt expecting this big void
im thinking to cover the inside of the nose piece with packing tape, thicken some epoxy and set the nose piece in order to fill all that and obtain a better surface contact between the piece and boat. plenrty of squeeze out to deal with though.
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Tue Dec 21, 2021 2:26 am
by pmnfernando
these pieces keep the transducers flat and parallell to the bottom
the circular ones are placed inside the hull and the eliptical ones, outside.
They definitely arent perfect and still need to be trimmed to a certain deadrise but it will work and will never rot as they are made of 30mm G10
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2021 11:32 am
by pmnfernando
got this done a couple fo weeks ago
stanchions and pulpit/pushpit bases epoxied into the toerail
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Sat Dec 25, 2021 2:56 am
by pmnfernando
Got the round pieces epoxied and lightly glassed in.
was able to get them pretty flushed.
Next week will do the elliptical ones on the outside
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Sat Jan 08, 2022 9:14 am
by pmnfernando
fwd end of the bilge, before closing with G10 board
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Sat Jan 08, 2022 9:14 am
by pmnfernando
after
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Sat Jan 08, 2022 9:15 am
by pmnfernando
aft end of the bilge before

Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Sat Jan 08, 2022 9:21 am
by pmnfernando
aft end of the bilge after
also check the marelon ball valves. the one on the left its a 2 inch, on the right its 1 1/2 inch. these things are GIGANTIC.
didnt even occured me to see the the overall dimensions upon ordering as i was only focused on the diameter. the 2 inch one is so ridiculously big i will have to build around it when times comes to glass my water tank in.
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Sat Jan 08, 2022 9:26 am
by pmnfernando
building the taper around the stanchions base so that water doesnt poll and flows aft to the drains.
used cheap duck tape to build the dam. then poured slitghtly thickened epoxy into. it is a quick, easy and cheap method but the weight of the thickened epoxy (and even plain epoxy) makes it "belly out" at times, for which (even) more sanding will be required.
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Sat Jan 08, 2022 9:27 am
by pmnfernando
after tape removal.
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Tue Jan 11, 2022 8:49 am
by pmnfernando
starboard side deck drain.
used pvc pipe and 45 degrees elbows to build it, then slapped some thickened epoxy and cloth around it. guess itsd there to stay.
did the same on portside
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Tue Jan 11, 2022 8:54 am
by pmnfernando
insertion of G10 (composed of 3 piecesx 6mm thick) into the sheerclamp to replace a rotten section.
it was then glassed over with one layer of biaxial.
in this specific location there will be a babystay chainplate applied outside. i will add another piece of G10 to increase the thickness and applying 3/4 more layers of cloth.
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Tue Jan 11, 2022 10:17 pm
by pmnfernando
some fairing
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2022 11:46 am
by pmnfernando
apparently im the kinda of person who, once the can of 407 is cracked open, has to use all of it!
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2022 11:47 am
by pmnfernando
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2022 11:48 am
by pmnfernando
and this is what happens when you dont babysit things long enough
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2022 9:07 am
by pmnfernando
decided to switch gears from all that fairing today
not that it was a much nicer job as it involved removing paint from all hull-bulkheads tabing. but it must be done since i want to reinforce all of it on the boat.
used a belt sander which makes for an quick job, but makes an absolute mess. it does create unevenness on the wood and fibreglass, but its all going to to faired aniway even it its out of sight

before
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2022 9:07 am
by pmnfernando
after
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2022 9:08 am
by pmnfernando
look at the layer of dust!! im hosing the inside once all the tabing is done
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2022 9:09 am
by pmnfernando
more holes to fill.
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2022 9:32 am
by pmnfernando
1.jpeg

Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2022 9:36 am
by pmnfernando
frame out
is it possible to observe that the top section is bent, so its need correcting
it will also be polished to mirror like finish as opposed as being painted

i am stiil thinking about the final solution when it comes to altering the its design. i definitely want to keep the frame as it is, in essence, a great shortcut from having a deck stepped mast to keel stepped one, not only making for a stronger boat overall but keeping the market value up in the future.
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2022 9:38 am
by pmnfernando
the removal of the frame further exposed the aft corner piece
,
2.jpeg
previously installed and also bent

Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2022 9:44 am
by pmnfernando
ths situation on the fwd face:
the top wood piece was hiding the metal piece
3.jpeg
4.jpeg

Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2022 9:51 am
by pmnfernando
back to the aft face
we can see those 3 metal tangs which are screwed onto those laminated braces (the portside one being rotten). it was on these metal tangs that the bolts threaded thru the frame would sit and exerting upward pressure to counter the downward pull of the mast
i thought up until today that those tangs were welded to the corner piece
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2022 9:55 am
by pmnfernando
i ended up removing all the metal pieces and cutting up the original fibreglass headliner on the v berth to access and remove those wooden braces
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2022 11:08 pm
by pmnfernando
As i said before i dont have final solution when it comes to the deck reinforcement.

I am leaning towards a option where i replace the corner pieces with a flat sheet of metal, which follows the underside contour of the deck on the main bulkhead with extra supports welded at 90ยบ to replace the wooden braces i removes
seen from the side this supports would take the shape of a triangle. this would be done on the fwd face.

on the aft one, maybe extend the frame, height wise, then install a steel plate to the underside of the deck and using the bolts as the "stoppers-adjusters" to keep everything tight.

i would be reinforcing the deck underside by laminating some biaxal and a 3 mm thick G10 board in a effort to make everything square before installing the steel pieces.

Would be great hearing from you guys

Re: Introducing Katie-J

Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2022 11:31 am
by atomvoyager
With stainless angle bars on front and back I'm surprised they bent at all. I think if you replace those with bigger angle bar backed by aluminum or stainless vertical flat plate and your large U-shaped weldment brace on the forward side you will get good support. You can augment the forward vertical supports any way you want but it seems the weak point is not there, its the unsupported center span that is the only thing bending. One that center span is augmented in any way that's convenient it will be strong enough. And yes, adding some G10 and fiberglass under the deck is a good way to start.