Introducing Katie-J

Post photos and descriptions of your ongoing projects here. No project is too big or too small.
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pmnfernando
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Post by pmnfernando »

the keel bolts look new.
if it wasnt for the condition of the nuts, washers and end top portion of the bolts, this whole step would have been have been avoided.
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Post by CapnK »

Wow, nice! Amazing, really, for 60 years of age!
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Post by pmnfernando »

no photo today as i am still head scratching......
ive grinded the bottom of the keel, no bolts are showing, they must be all tapped into the iron....
.....meaning.....ive (literally) screwed myself big time but cutting them flush.
im having a friend weld a rod so that we try and unscrew them tomorrow, if that fails then i guess i need a mag drill, drill it them out, and tap new bolt a size up from the current ones.

i read somewhere that the minimum thread size should be 2.5 x the diameter of the bolts at the minimum. let me know what you guys think
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Post by atomvoyager »

I'd do everything possible to get the bolts out rather than tap new holes because that be easy.
The wooden boat guys on the following thread say at least 1 1/2 bolt diameters plus room for the taper at the end of the tap:

http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread. ... -iron-keel
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Post by pmnfernando »

bolts out!!

at least the 6 main ones. 1 inch thick.
the only 2 that i am unable to take out are the 2 that i try do drill out, the fwd one (19 mm) and the aft one (12 mm)
i think i will have to drill them out. not particularly fussy about the aft one, but defo want to replace the fwd bolt
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Post by atomvoyager »

If you have trouble drilling them out, say in case they are hardened steel, you may be able to sister in new bolts in new tapped holes nearby.
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Post by pmnfernando »

i was able to dril them with HSS drill bit. had i kept quiet those bolts would ve been out by now.....
the main issue is to drill it as close to vertical as possible, i bought a portable drill press/guide to help out in the beggining. not really sure if its going to deliver.

i am trying to shy way from sistering, as i would like to use the hole in the keel stub instead of filling it and opening a new one. but perhaps i will have to go down that road.

for the keel treatment my schedule will be:
wire brush it
apply Primocon (1st layer with brush, 2 other layers with roller)
fair it

and after some research decided to actual laminate 1 layer of glass cloth on it
3/4 coats of plain epoxy resin
epoxy primer
bottom paint

the plan is to do it with the keel inverted so i can reach the bottom and sides in 1 go. the top will be done after and overlapping the layers.

this will force me to get a decent rubber mat in which to roll the keel so i dont scrape the products off of it
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Post by pmnfernando »

bilge floor, before and after
did a couple of straight epoxy pours to level most of the surfaces, then applied thickened epoxy beneath the 6mm thick G10 sheet., finally one layer of biaxial cloth was laminated on top.
need to knock some peelply bubbles, fair some rough spots and on to paint.! will dril the keel bolt holes from outside
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Post by pmnfernando »

this is actually 2 boards butt joint together to make final lenght of 2.4 meters
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Post by pmnfernando »

keel up right
got it done this morning. some nasty dings from trying a controlled roll over (which didnt went so well..) but nothing that some sanding and fairing wont cure.
the red pain is antifoul. decided to paint some AF while i had good access (will touch up right before splash)
the green stuff if epoxy primer, the brown in some fairing, near the top is still on bare fibreglass as i will be laminating a continuous strip of cloth around the keel to protect the hull-keel joint.
the very top received a couple coats of primocon and 2 layers of cloth today.
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Post by pmnfernando »

nose piece out

was expecting a bigger fight so cant really complain
the piece is chromed bronze but it has been painted 3 times already
im having it chromed again to go with the stainless guardrail i will install at a later stage
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Post by pmnfernando »

also wasnt expecting this big void
im thinking to cover the inside of the nose piece with packing tape, thicken some epoxy and set the nose piece in order to fill all that and obtain a better surface contact between the piece and boat. plenrty of squeeze out to deal with though.
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Post by pmnfernando »

these pieces keep the transducers flat and parallell to the bottom
the circular ones are placed inside the hull and the eliptical ones, outside.
They definitely arent perfect and still need to be trimmed to a certain deadrise but it will work and will never rot as they are made of 30mm G10
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Post by pmnfernando »

got this done a couple fo weeks ago
stanchions and pulpit/pushpit bases epoxied into the toerail
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Post by pmnfernando »

Got the round pieces epoxied and lightly glassed in.
was able to get them pretty flushed.
Next week will do the elliptical ones on the outside
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Post by pmnfernando »

fwd end of the bilge, before closing with G10 board
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Post by pmnfernando »

after
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Post by pmnfernando »

aft end of the bilge before
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Post by pmnfernando »

aft end of the bilge after
also check the marelon ball valves. the one on the left its a 2 inch, on the right its 1 1/2 inch. these things are GIGANTIC.
didnt even occured me to see the the overall dimensions upon ordering as i was only focused on the diameter. the 2 inch one is so ridiculously big i will have to build around it when times comes to glass my water tank in.
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Post by pmnfernando »

building the taper around the stanchions base so that water doesnt poll and flows aft to the drains.
used cheap duck tape to build the dam. then poured slitghtly thickened epoxy into. it is a quick, easy and cheap method but the weight of the thickened epoxy (and even plain epoxy) makes it "belly out" at times, for which (even) more sanding will be required.
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Post by pmnfernando »

after tape removal.
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Post by pmnfernando »

starboard side deck drain.
used pvc pipe and 45 degrees elbows to build it, then slapped some thickened epoxy and cloth around it. guess itsd there to stay.
did the same on portside
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Post by pmnfernando »

insertion of G10 (composed of 3 piecesx 6mm thick) into the sheerclamp to replace a rotten section.
it was then glassed over with one layer of biaxial.
in this specific location there will be a babystay chainplate applied outside. i will add another piece of G10 to increase the thickness and applying 3/4 more layers of cloth.
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Post by pmnfernando »

some fairing
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Post by pmnfernando »

apparently im the kinda of person who, once the can of 407 is cracked open, has to use all of it!
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Post by pmnfernando »

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Post by pmnfernando »

and this is what happens when you dont babysit things long enough
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Post by pmnfernando »

decided to switch gears from all that fairing today
not that it was a much nicer job as it involved removing paint from all hull-bulkheads tabing. but it must be done since i want to reinforce all of it on the boat.
used a belt sander which makes for an quick job, but makes an absolute mess. it does create unevenness on the wood and fibreglass, but its all going to to faired aniway even it its out of sight

before
WhatsApp Image 2022-01-20 at 20.54.37 (1).jpeg
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Post by pmnfernando »

after
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Post by pmnfernando »

look at the layer of dust!! im hosing the inside once all the tabing is done
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Post by pmnfernando »

more holes to fill.
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Post by pmnfernando »

1.jpeg
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Post by pmnfernando »

frame out
is it possible to observe that the top section is bent, so its need correcting
it will also be polished to mirror like finish as opposed as being painted

i am stiil thinking about the final solution when it comes to altering the its design. i definitely want to keep the frame as it is, in essence, a great shortcut from having a deck stepped mast to keel stepped one, not only making for a stronger boat overall but keeping the market value up in the future.
WhatsApp Image 2022-01-24 at 20.10.06 (4).jpeg
Last edited by pmnfernando on Mon Jan 24, 2022 10:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by pmnfernando »

the removal of the frame further exposed the aft corner piece
,
2.jpeg
previously installed and also bent
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Post by pmnfernando »

ths situation on the fwd face:
the top wood piece was hiding the metal piece
3.jpeg
4.jpeg
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Post by pmnfernando »

back to the aft face
we can see those 3 metal tangs which are screwed onto those laminated braces (the portside one being rotten). it was on these metal tangs that the bolts threaded thru the frame would sit and exerting upward pressure to counter the downward pull of the mast
i thought up until today that those tangs were welded to the corner piece
7.jpeg
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Post by pmnfernando »

i ended up removing all the metal pieces and cutting up the original fibreglass headliner on the v berth to access and remove those wooden braces
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Post by pmnfernando »

As i said before i dont have final solution when it comes to the deck reinforcement.

I am leaning towards a option where i replace the corner pieces with a flat sheet of metal, which follows the underside contour of the deck on the main bulkhead with extra supports welded at 90º to replace the wooden braces i removes
seen from the side this supports would take the shape of a triangle. this would be done on the fwd face.

on the aft one, maybe extend the frame, height wise, then install a steel plate to the underside of the deck and using the bolts as the "stoppers-adjusters" to keep everything tight.

i would be reinforcing the deck underside by laminating some biaxal and a 3 mm thick G10 board in a effort to make everything square before installing the steel pieces.

Would be great hearing from you guys
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Post by atomvoyager »

With stainless angle bars on front and back I'm surprised they bent at all. I think if you replace those with bigger angle bar backed by aluminum or stainless vertical flat plate and your large U-shaped weldment brace on the forward side you will get good support. You can augment the forward vertical supports any way you want but it seems the weak point is not there, its the unsupported center span that is the only thing bending. One that center span is augmented in any way that's convenient it will be strong enough. And yes, adding some G10 and fiberglass under the deck is a good way to start.
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Post by pmnfernando »

i sketch ths up in autocad
hope its clear
the first picture refers to the aft face
in green hatch it is the ss plate
in yellow hatch is the existing frame (which will have to be extended)

the aft ss plate will be bolted to the fwd ss plate
AFT BULKHEAD REINFORCEMENT.png
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Post by pmnfernando »

fwd detail

we can see both the fwd face and a side profile showing the bulkhead in red
and the ss plate and wedges. (in green and yellow to distinguish between the side and central one)

note that the top ss plate will extend aft
FWD BULKHEAD REINFORCEMENT.png
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Post by pmnfernando »

primed!!
one coat of Alexseal protective primer 161
managed to do the whole hull with one gallon of it
mixing ratio is 6 to 1 and they advise 10% reducing but for all people considering using this primer, thin it to 30%, this is some thick stuff.
really really nasty stuff to breathe as well. no mask isnt really an option.
i used a short nap (6mm long) roller. granted i used 4 inch rollers but i wasnt expecting to take 7 hours to paint the whole boat. specially considering that, in my mind, it would take 2!

need to wait 32 hours, minimum, to apply fairing compound but the best news is: no prior sanding required if you are either recoating it more primer, fairing compound, for 6 MONTHS!
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Post by pmnfernando »

a friend went by the marina today with just the right tool for this job.
we got the stern tube out in less than 15 minutes. i was dreading this job, as it took me 3 hours to move it a measly 20 mm a few weeks ago.
since its out i will replace the cutlass bearing
WhatsApp Image 2022-01-29 at 23.06.51.jpeg
stern tube
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Post by pmnfernando »

a bit more sanding on those partial bulkheads to prep the surfaces for more cloth reinforcement

before
WhatsApp Image 2022-01-29 at 23.06.52.jpeg
after
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Post by pmnfernando »

what you see here are a couple of plywood stringers that help stiffen the hull.
these are original and the plywood is moist and delaminating specially at the top.
WhatsApp Image 2022-01-29 at 23.06.53 (1).jpeg
i cut them in half, height wise, to check is they were sound. and turns out they are not so bad so im keeping whats left because the whole thing is still firmly attached to hull. i will be glassing over to reinforce and help spread the loads.
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Post by pmnfernando »

after i cut those stringers i wanted to start sanding the area in between them because it had a strange texture that ive noticed right from when i bought the boat. little did i know what was i going to discover....
WhatsApp Image 2022-01-29 at 23.06.50 (1).jpeg
turns out, that whole area was stuffed with compound and some foam (open cell foam for sure) and not only it wet is all dirty will oil.
this is just above the stern tube channel so i have yet to discover is there any actual ingress water points.
all good but wasnt really expecting this
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Post by pmnfernando »

fairing compound applied
need to wait at least 36 hours, but maybe its going to be longer since the temperatures are really down this past few days in Macau.
Had no choice but to apply the compound below the minimum recommended temperatures of 15C (59F), but thats life.
The manufacturer ( Alexseal) says that the compound needs to be block sanded, and the grits to be between 36 and 120
stating that above 100 it reduces the risk for scratch printing.

Could i not machine sand this to 80 grit and then finish with block sanding to 100?
I dont see why not, but input from more experienced guys would be greatly appreciated.
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Post by pmnfernando »

....whilst the fairing cures.....


decided to glass over the entire main bulkhead.
was a good boy and actually used the orbital sander as opposed to the belt one.

before
WhatsApp Image 2022-02-02 at 22.14.58 (1).jpeg
after
WhatsApp Image 2022-02-02 at 22.14.58.jpeg
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Post by pmnfernando »

used the multitool to cut the headliner in order to access the rest of the wooden bracing, which was removed after.
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atomvoyager
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Re: Introducing Katie-J

Post by atomvoyager »

I don't recall why you applied fairing compound over the entire transom surface. Possibly there were uneven repair areas or the factory finish had waves or ripples in it that you wanted to improve the appearance of or wanted to fill gelcoat porosity or other widespread crazing that you felt primer alone would not fill. If the original surface was flat and fair then you can safely use your 5" random orbital using 80 grit initially to get it close to level and then finish with 120 to remove the 80 scratches and get it perfectly level. When finished you will have sanded 95% or more of the fairing off and be down to the original fairly level factory gelcoat finish. The next primer coats will fill the 120 scratches. I sand the primer halfway with 220 to get it level and finish with 320 to remove the 220 scratches and it's ready for topcoating. The reason not to sand it with 320 only is because it takes too long, particularly if the primer did not go on perfectly smooth.
If the fairing compound was put on to cover low spots then block sanding with a long board is the best way to get it level. Using 100 or 120 grit initially will work if it's not too thick but as you know it's a laborious process to block sand. If you apply enough high build primer it will cover the 100 to 120 scratches. Or you could go over the surface lightly with 120-150 on the orbital sander just to remove the long board scratches if you think the primer won't cover them. Block sanding gets things level better than an orbital but 120 grit scratches from hand block sanding are harder to hide under primer than 120 scratches from the orbital because the orbital has that random swirling pattern. If you're using an air longboard then it will also have less visible scratches than the hand longboard for the same grit.
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