Cleat backing pads

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vanguard64
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Cleat backing pads

Post by vanguard64 »

Hi, On my Alberg 30, the SB original 6 inch Marinium stern cleat has developed a crack in one of the four feet by the bolt. These cleats are marginal and my plan is to replace them with 8 or 10 inch SS Herreshoff cleats at a close by location. What is your favorite backing plate material for cleats? G10, aluminum, SS, or plywood?
Thanks,
Marcelo
svMira
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Re: Cleat backing pads

Post by svMira »

I've been using aluminum for quite a bit of mine. Figure I'm making "extra large washers". In some areas, I'm thickening the underside with pieces of glass pieces cut from other areas in the boat. In other, I'm adding that thickening on top, so that my hardware isn't just mounted flush to the deck, but rather on a small raised area. The idea here is that I shouldn't have as much water seepage. Regular small amounts of water will flow down and off that raised area and would 'soak' against the epoxy glass/glass joint as opposed to the fitting/deck joint. I guess what I need to be careful of is to make sure that I don't create a hard spot around my fitting by making the top flange and bottom backing plate the same size.
I got Daniel Spurr's book for Christmas. He's quite adamant about making sure that the backing plates taper off at their edges, so that those hard spots are created. I think that's quite hard to do with aluminum. So I like to think of the aluminum as fastener pull through protection. As opposed to load area increasing. That I want to do with pieces of glass panel.
I won't use plywood. Why back with something that can rot when there are easy no-rot options.
Marvin - s/v Mira - 1971 Pearson Wanderer #174
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atomvoyager
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Re: Cleat backing pads

Post by atomvoyager »

Marvin makes some good points. I've also often use 1/4 aluminum plate as backing plates. I buy a standard length of 10 feet x 4" wide from a local metal fab shop and cut with my chop saw. You can use a jig saw or angle grinder but it can be slow going. If not sure what alloy you're getting you can always coat it with epoxy primer to prevent surface corrosion in wet locker areas like chain locker and lazarette.

Stainless is too hard to work with and gets heavy and even harder to drill if thicker than 1/8" so I don't often use it unless I happen to have something handy in stock to repurpose and if I need something low profile that acts like a big fender washer.

For large areas that need reinforcing like around an anchor windlass I use 1/2" plywood but make sure to seal it well with epoxy. Then I use a separate aluminum or G10 backing plates for each bolt. You could use ply for backing cleats and such but you need to dry fit then remove and apply with several coats of epoxy and then use fender washers, but not as good as aluminum or G10 for stiffness and longevity.

1/4" G10 is my favorite because it doesn't need any coating and is easy to cut and drill. It's pricey though so like Marvin I sometimes use pieces of solid fiberglass deck that I've cut away from other areas when making modifications.

The 10" cleats seem right size for the Alberg 30. You can get more lines on them and easier to slip an eye spliced mooring line through the center and loop around the top so it can't wiggle off.
vanguard64
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Re: Cleat backing pads

Post by vanguard64 »

Thanks guys,
Great explanations and suggestions on an important topic. It always amazes me how many manufacturers cut corners in this regard.
Marcelo
svMira
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Re: Cleat backing pads

Post by svMira »

Cutting Aluminum, particularly thicker stuff, with a jig saw is annoying. But, not as bad as cutting plexiglass. I've found that the trick is to slow down. A good sharp blade with medium to small teeth, but keep the speed down so that you don't heat it up and start melting the aluminum. I've gone in guns a blazing and melted my teeth full of aluminum that refused to clean out. This is a case where cutting slower is faster. Cutting Plexi uses the same principle, but even more obvious because of the lower melting temp.
Marvin - s/v Mira - 1971 Pearson Wanderer #174
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markwesti
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Re: Cleat backing pads

Post by markwesti »

In your order Marcelo G10 alum. SS I would say if you go the plywood way coat it with epoxy . Also there is this relatively new stuff called Coosa board .
http://www.coosacomposites.com/
vanguard64
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Re: Cleat backing pads

Post by vanguard64 »

I have had the same experience cutting aluminum as svmira. The first time, I went after it like I was cutting wood and the aluminum just melted on the blade. I was surprised by this as I figured aluminum would be much easier to cut than other metals but as svmira mentions, slowing down works much better.
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