Coronado 15 project.

Post photos and descriptions of your ongoing projects here. No project is too big or too small.
TampaBay
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by TampaBay »

Here are six new fasteners for the head of the main.

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This is what the back of the hatch looks like now. Epoxy with graphite powder. I filled some small pin holes and low spots, almost ready for another coat (more sanding.)
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TampaBay
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by TampaBay »

Here, is some tape from the auto parts store. Previously, I used plastic tape, but this is working far better.
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For protection, the edge is coated with an epoxy and graphite mix. This is a small boat, and the hatch will get knocked around.

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With the "left over" 5mm Birch faced ply; I applied graphite and epoxy mix to an unprepared surface (heavy, medium, and light.) The area was sanded with 100, 320, and 400 grit paper. Epifanes Clear was diluted 50:50 with paint thinner, and a first coat was brushed on.

Here is a question: Should I use a high quality brush with varnish? What I have are disposable versions, used for epoxy.
This image has a few distracting shadows; I will keep up with this, and get better pictures.

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ILikeRust
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by ILikeRust »

Yes, use a decent-quality brush with varnish to get the best results. Those foam brushes tend to not only leave bubbles, but also will start to disintegrate and leave tiny little bits of black foam in your varnish. Don't ask me how I know this.

And don't use those cheap "chip" brushes - they shed bristles like an old cat on a hot day, and even though you think you've gotten every one out of your wet varnish, you will find several more the next day after the varnish has dried. Again, don't ask me how I know this.
Bill T.
Richmond, VA

"All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake in the day to find that it was vanity: but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men, for they may act their dreams with open eyes, to make it possible." - T E Lawrence
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by TampaBay »

Happy Fourth of July!
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Last edited by TampaBay on Tue Feb 05, 2013 9:58 am, edited 1 time in total.
TampaBay
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by TampaBay »

The back of the hatch; starting to look much better. Epoxy was applied to the center section, but that was sanded off. This finish is one coat of Epifanes (diluted 50/50.)

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Last edited by TampaBay on Tue Feb 05, 2013 9:58 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by TampaBay »

The window seat, just off the kitchen, has become a storage area for most of the new boat stuff. Look close and you can see, many types of sandpaper.

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This is what I started with, and I can not think of a reason to ever buy this type again.
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I don't know what P stands for, maybe professional? It's much better than the General Purpose paper. The P320 was used dry, then I started wet sanding with the P400. I expected a very light effect on the finish with the P400, but it removed 2 layers of varnish without blinking.
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Next time, I will go easier with the P400. Before putting the workbench away for the night (my neighbors appreciate the tidiness,) I took some practice wet sanding with the 1000 grit (this paper has no P.) I will work through all these grits (1000, 1500, 2000, 2500.)
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ILikeRust
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by ILikeRust »

There actually is a lot to know about "sandpaper" and grit designations. There are at least three (probably more) different numbering systems for specifying sandpaper grit sizes - so a P120 is not the same as a 120 in a different system.

There are lots of other variables as well, including:

- type of abrasive (garnet, aluminum oxide, zirconium oxide, silicon carbide). The black stuff is silicon carbide and goes to very, very fine grits, usually used wet. Used by auto painters to get a very smooth and polished surface.

- type of backing (paper, cloth, other?)

- type of bonding (how the grit is glued or held to the backing

- whether the grit is "open" or "closed" (sealed).

The Wikipedia entry for sandpapergives a very basic, summary overview.
Bill T.
Richmond, VA

"All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake in the day to find that it was vanity: but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men, for they may act their dreams with open eyes, to make it possible." - T E Lawrence
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by TampaBay »

Thanks for that link ILR; able to learn a few things quickly.

I stopped by Lowes, and found new tools. The sanding blocks should be helpful; I've been using a rubber block with 3 nails set into each side (enough of that.) The paint brushes are a good quality (maybe the best they have at Lowes.)
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This block has a rounded edge, and a sharp edge: It is looking most useful right now.
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And, I needed new saws. This one is 26 inches.
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Induction Hardened teeth.
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And a smaller saw (12 inches;) the teeth have less offset. Two different brands, and the same Induction Hardened style of teeth.
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This is a smallish circular saw. It should be the right size for many projects.
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ILikeRust
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by ILikeRust »

I submit that you will find those new handsaws a chore to use and unpleasant. A good, old handsaw, properly sharpened, is a joy to use. Modern handsaws are not "hung" right, just don't feel right in the hand and don't glide through the wood the way a quality old Disston or similar quality saw does. Additionally, those impulse-hardened teeth not only try to be all things (rip and crosscut), they are brittle, so it is possible to snap them off, and you can't sharpen them. I have found they vibrate like mad and do not leave a clean cut.

Several of my favorite user handsaws are over 100 years old and work beautifully. Years ago I bought one of the modern saws, with impulse-hardened teeth, just to compare. It was awful. I gave it to my wife for her to use as a pruning saw.

I have no idea what that Kobalt saw is supposed to be for, but that tote angle looks all kinds of wrong to me.

Reading back over all that, I really sound like a curmudgeon. Well, OK, sometimes I am. But I guess I'm also a bit of an old hand tool snob. The vast majority of hand tools available at the big box stores today are absolute crap. Most of my hand tools - and in particular, all of my hand planes, saw and chisels - are quite a bit older than I am and perform better than anything you'll find at Lowe's or Home Depot.
Bill T.
Richmond, VA

"All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake in the day to find that it was vanity: but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men, for they may act their dreams with open eyes, to make it possible." - T E Lawrence
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by TampaBay »

I would not be surprised if those saws fall, well short, of perfection. The 26" saw was 20 bucks, and the smaller saw, 10bucks.

They are just for the most basic chores (tree pruning included.) They are, however, light years better than the one saw, I had previously: That saw is so terrible, I can't post a photo.

Where do I find good saws, and what are the prices?
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Rachel
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by Rachel »

I have been thinking I would like to try a Japanese style pull saw (which can be found at Lowe's etc. now, although I'm not sure how that compares to "real" ones).
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by ILikeRust »

It really depends on what you're wanting to do with it. There are all kinds of saws, for different purposes. You want a dovetail saw? A tenon saw? A carcase saw? A cabinetmaker's crosscut? A finish carpenter's crosscut? A ripsaw?

If you're thinking about serious woodworking, you're going to want to spend some money on good tools. I concluded long ago that life is to short to waste money on cheap tools. There's an old saying along the lines of "the man who buys quality tools cries only once." Yeah, it may sting when you drop $150 on a handsaw, but then you'll have it the rest of your life, you'll be motivated to care for it properly, and you'll enjoy using it.

Anyhow, I have been buying, selling, accumulating and using antique woodworking tools for nearly 20 years. I have found them at garage sales, flea market, estate sales and auctions, country auction, eBay, Craig's list, junque shoppes, anteek mauls, etc.

Often they need a little re-habbing, but for me anyhow, that's half the fun. It's how you learn about the tool - how it is meant to be properly set up, how to fettle it into fine tune, and ultimately how to hold and use it.

Decent handsaws typically can be had for under $10 a piece, but they might need a little cleaning, de-rusting and sharpening. There are a few (very few, unfortunately) old tool dealers who will re-hab old saws and then sell them, but you're going to pay more like $30 to $100 for them - but they're well worth it.

There are several tool-collecting clubs and organizations that have regular meets and auctions, which are great events for learning, meeting great people and building your arsenal. The largest is the Mid-West Tool Collectors Association (M-WTCA). Although they're called "Midwest," they have regional meets all over the country.

The biggest regular auctions in the U.S. are Brown's, which happens every October in Hershey, PA, and Martin Donnelly's "Live Free or Die" auctionsup in New Hampshire and occasionally elsewhere. The Fine Tool Journalalso is a regular publication that hold large tool auctions by mail regularly - but those mostly are high-end collector-grade tools, not users.

In the past 10-20 years, there has been a resurgence in interest in quality woodworking tools, so several small but high-quality tool makers have cropped up. If you want truly good-quality woodworking tools, these are the outfits to buy from, rather than Stanley or Sears or Lowe's or Home Depot. A sampling includes:

Lie-Nielsen
Garrett Wade
Lee Valley
Even Rockler has some decent hand tools. You might start there to find a reasonably decent, but relatively less expensive, Japanese pull saw.
Tools for Working Wood also has a lot of good stuff, including tools from Gramercy, which are good.

Some of the best saws you'll find anywhere for the money can be had from Wenzloff and Sons. If you're not used to what quailty hand tools cost, though, you might want to sit down before looking at their prices.

One of my absolute favorite saws is a big 28" 5.5-point rip saw made by Richardson Brothers, which disappeared from the planet in 1907. This saw was made in the 1880s. Properly sharpened, it blasts through planks. Of course, I usually use my table saw for ripping, but now and then for smaller jobs (or if my table saw is <ahem> covered...), I'll whip out the RB ripper. I paid all of $7 for it about 15 years ago in a second-hand junk shop. I cleaned it up and discovered it still had the original factory grind on the teeth - looked like nobody had ever used it. After a touch-up sharpening, it's a sweet saw.

Now look what you did - you got me monologuing on old tools... not hard to do!
Bill T.
Richmond, VA

"All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake in the day to find that it was vanity: but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men, for they may act their dreams with open eyes, to make it possible." - T E Lawrence
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Rachel
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by Rachel »

Yeah, that was pretty easy, wasn't it? It's interesting though and I enjoy reading it! And I agree with you -- I hate cheap tools. That said, I will occasionally buy something cheap if it's not something I would want to keep/use for years, or I think I can make it last by babying it a little. For example, I have a punch set from Harbor Freight that I'm sure is junk. But I rarely use it and it suffices. I couldn't bring myself to buy the HF multi tool though.... had to get the Fein (and love it).

Sadly, I don't do enough woodworking right now to be able to say "Oh, I'm going to be doing mostly ripping, so...." It's more like just grab a saw to make some small cut on an existing boat part, or cut a cleat or something (cross cut, but a very tiny one). I know that sounds cringe-worthy, but it's just how my "woodworking" goes now. If I had a real shop, real woodworking is something I would love to set up for and learn. I have to suppress that for now.

I do have one old saw that a friend fixed up and gave me for my birthday some years ago. It had been left at a jobsite and out in the weather for some time, but he fixed it up, re-finished the hand-grip part, and sharpened it. It really cut nicely. I didn't even know at the time that there were different saws for ripping, cross-cutting, and etc. but I used it for cross-cutting (and the table saw for ripping).

And, I just learned how to sharpen knives and chisels, thanks to a good friend visiting and showing me how. We turned three "junk" chisels someone had given me years ago (they were already junk chisels then, so I just continued the usage) into real, usable chisels. Wow, I had NO idea how useful chisels were (as chisels!). I had never used a real, sharp chisel. I got so hooked on them that I used them every day during a project I was working on and then "touched them up" in the morning on the stone (which also helped ingrain how to sharpen, which I hope I don't forget). Amazing.

It sure is a pleasure to use hand tools over power tools when possible. Ahhh, quiet!

I see the tool ramble continues.... :D
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by TampaBay »

Great info ILikeRust, thanks. I have been surfing through those links, and the older saws look very cool (I only want a few dozen though.)


The temperature in the yard is about 95, in the shade. Please,,,,, don't even mention the humidity. I was thinking about setting a work bench, including the garden hose; then it struck me (in the head,) like a bolt of LIGHTNING.

I can wet sand in the kitchen!
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Last edited by TampaBay on Tue Feb 05, 2013 9:59 am, edited 1 time in total.
ILikeRust
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by ILikeRust »

TampaBay wrote:the older saws look very cool (I only want a few dozen though.)
Old handsaws are like coat hangers. You put two of them together in a drawer or cabinet, and when you come back later, you find they've reproduced.

Over the past few years, I've sold most of the handsaws I had accumulated over the years, because I realized I need only a few good users.

I've managed to whittle the assortment down to probably about 40 now. Over time I probably have had a couple hundred, and I'm a piker compared to some guys I know.

Same thing with hand planes. I haven't put them all in one place and counted, but I'm "down" to probably about 30 or 40.

But you can't have too many clamps. In fact, I definitely need more. I actually do - it's one of the few tools I legitimately really could use more of.
Bill T.
Richmond, VA

"All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake in the day to find that it was vanity: but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men, for they may act their dreams with open eyes, to make it possible." - T E Lawrence
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by TampaBay »

I received an e-mail from my Mom yesterday; she asked "why no new updates to the thread?" This one is for you Mom.

Today, I found a couple of things at K-mart.
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Varnish drying in the garage, on the hood of my truck.

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TampaBay
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by TampaBay »

Here is a look at a typical summer day in south Florida. In the shady area, I worked at this small project, and then went back inside to the air-conditioning.

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The Dremel was bought just for this purpose. The tool seems to have a wobble; that stalled progress, but I am pressing forward.

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The first layer of epoxy has a few high spots, that show through the top layers of graphite. With the Dremel, these high spots were ground back.

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TampaBay
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by TampaBay »

Low spots filled with epoxy, thickened with graphite. At some point, work on this hatch will come to a stop; There are other projects,,, and I want to go sailing.

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TampaBay
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by TampaBay »

And so, the hatch is finished.

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The epoxy and graphite filled in this radius nicely (a bubble here and there, I will have to live with .)

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I had planned for the hatch face, to be finished as varnish, sanded with 2500 grit paper. This makes an attractive satin look, but I learned this; the surface is very porous like that. The graphite powder (from sanding) and finger smudges left a big mess. That mess was sanded off, the face refinished, and left glossy (sealed.)

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Here is my helper. The edge of the hatch is half epoxy, and half varnish. Max, the project supervisor, gives it the eyeball and OK's the hatch for service. :)

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Last edited by TampaBay on Tue Feb 05, 2013 10:00 am, edited 1 time in total.
TampaBay
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by TampaBay »

The deck grunge had become a public health hazard. The pictures don't tell the whole, dirty, moldy, bird dropping story.

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I rented this 2500 psi pressure washer from Home Depot, not cheap but worth the money.

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ILikeRust
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by ILikeRust »

TampaBay wrote:Image
Ha! I love that pic. He truly looks like he's carefully inspecting the finished product - like he's sighting down the edge of the board.

We have a cat that looks almost identical. Ours is a little beefier. I found him as a 6-8 week-old kitten running back and forth across the Downtown Expressway in Richmond, VA one morning on my way to work. How he got there and how he managed to not get splattered all over the highway, I'll never now. Or how I managed to grab him without getting splattered myself.
Bill T.
Richmond, VA

"All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake in the day to find that it was vanity: but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men, for they may act their dreams with open eyes, to make it possible." - T E Lawrence
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by TampaBay »

He and his brother were found as small kittens, living in the engine compartment of a junk car. My wife's co-worker is married to a Nissan mechanic (he found the cats,) so I get a call one day: "Hey, you want a kitten?"

His name is Max, after the Nissan Maxima that was his first home (that's how he came to appreciate good workmanship.) :)
TampaBay
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by TampaBay »

Here are the pressure washer "after" pictures.

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Not sure what to do with this clean wood, but it looks much better than the black grunge finish.
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Last edited by TampaBay on Fri May 25, 2012 10:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
TampaBay
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by TampaBay »

The new challenge involves the centerboard. I just learned that I've been sailing this boat with the board, backwards.

Here is how the board looks, when it is wrong. The steel brackets should slide into the trunk, and not be sticking up into the cockpit. This is how the boat was purchased, so I thought it was correct.
Yes,,It was slow.

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In any event, the board had wear. The leading edge had a couple sections scuffed away.

See the reflection of the wear against this flat surface (counter-top.)

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With a long piece of Saran Wrap taped to the counter, I troweled thickened epoxy under the edge.

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I filled a section, on both sides of the trailing edge, where the fiberglass had broke free (formerly the leading edge.)

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Last edited by TampaBay on Thu Jun 21, 2012 9:35 am, edited 1 time in total.
TampaBay
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by TampaBay »

Wet sanding today. The bottom was very rough, and although this won't result in a "glass like" finish, it will be a big improvement.

Th 3M 213Q Wetordry is holding up like a champ. I think one piece could finish the job.


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TampaBay
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by TampaBay »

From wood work, to stainless steel.

Does this weld look bad to anyone? It is the inside and outside of the "female" half, of the centerboard bracket (The board pivots on this sleeve, the male side broke away.)


Bad weld?
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Bad weld?
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by ghostwriter247 »

The bead looks good to me tho maybe someone with more experience will probably speak up. it just looks like they didn't fill in the bottom so they wouldn't have to grind it flat. Did it get a little thinner on the opposite side of the first picture?
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by TampaBay »

Thanks for the input. Yes this is the front and back of the same part, and the other side of the big divot looks slightly thinner.
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by Tallystick »

Weld looks fine to me. I'm no expert welder, but I've been teaching myself welding. I took some work that looked worse than that to a welding shop for feedback and advice, and they told me my welds were fine. Totally functional, and the welds get prettier with practice.

The metal in the weld is generally twice as strong as the base metal, so I think you're fine so long as there aren't any cracks.
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by TampaBay »

.
.
The head of the centerboard has cupped.

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So, I placed it in the sun to heat up, and then clamped it flat against a section of square tubing (steel.)


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It did not work, to un-warp the board. I have to try something else.
..
..
Last edited by TampaBay on Thu Jun 21, 2012 9:43 am, edited 1 time in total.
TampaBay
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by TampaBay »

Here, I resort to "plan B."

Multiple kerfs were made, on both sides (3/16th deep,) and without much concern for neatness (planning to cover my tracks with paint.) When the board is clamped into a flat shape, the kerfs get filled with thickened epoxy (it will work, maybe.)

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Also, I will run kerfs (neatly,) along the length of the board, and epoxy into place some threads from this carbon fibre tape.

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TampaBay
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by TampaBay »

Any input is appreciated. Also, I am considering the alternate spellings, "centreboard," and "fibre." Its cooler right?
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by Paulus »

When you say it has cupped, is this something recent? Wood works all the time and if it started cupping, this may be due to the conditions it is or has been seeing. If it has been stored on its side the exposed top side may have dried (faster) than the bottom and cupping may have occurred. If the board is x years old and never was cupped, simply restoring it to what it is used to "see" may bring it back to its original relaxed shape. So, if it is used to hang in the centerboard slot and get wet once in a while, this could very well fix your problem.

Once wood is no longer green and has dried to it's new permanent existance, it usually stops working, until one intropduces "change". Take a beautiful mahogany cabinet from Maine down to Florida and chance are it will cause the drawers to stick a little...

Take it back to Maine and chances are it might function again as it did before the move...

If the warp on the board is permanent, you may consider fairing it to foil shape - adding compound on one side and removing wood from the other, so both sides are perfectly faired.
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by TampaBay »

I have owned the boat for going on 8 years (maybe.) I have been out on only 3 short sails. Mainly, the boat is stored for long periods of time, and I work on these small projects when possible. Until now, I have never spent much time looking at the centerboard, so I don't know what condition, it used to be in.

The board has been in an air-conditioned house for 10 weeks now, and it has not changed one bit. It must be made flat, because it swings on a close tolerance steel bracket, in a very narrow centerboard truck.

If the board project ends up all wrong, I can drive up the road to Catalina Yachts, and buy a new one. :)
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by Tallystick »

I think you might be better off taking enough material off to remove the cup and allowing room for covering the wood with a layer of fiberglass, and then fairing it to fit.

I'm afraid you might get delamination between the wood kerfs and your reinforced epoxy. Stiffening the epoxy filler is not the answer here IMO, as that makes it more prone to delamination when the board flexes or sees thermal expansion. I'd use West's Gflex or similar epoxy with sawdust filler to fill those kerfs.
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Boat Type: Coronado 15

Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by TampaBay »

TS,

The gamble is that the epoxy added to the kerfs will not be as willing to stretch, or compress.

At the pivot end of the board, the kerfs will be at right angles to each other, and form a grid pattern. Filled with thickened epoxy, that should encourage the shape to hold flat. It's a balancing act between strength, and shape. If the kerfs are to deep, strength is lost, if they are very shallow, shape is the compromise.

Of coarse, in the event of a capsize, the board performs "second duty." That's what the carbon fiber is for. Epoxied into the foil lengthwise, it will (in theory) add enough strength.
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Boat Type: Coronado 15

Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by TampaBay »

Here is the transfer of the foil's shape to the plywood template.
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Last edited by TampaBay on Sun Dec 20, 2015 1:08 pm, edited 2 times in total.
TampaBay
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Boat Type: Coronado 15

Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by TampaBay »

Today, I catch up on a couple of boat projects. Bought this jig saw at Lowes.

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TampaBay
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Boat Type: Coronado 15

Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by TampaBay »

Used the jig saw to remove an old bulkhead, just forward of the cockpit: The class guys say it's worthless. It is very thin, brittle, and made from chopped strand. I downloaded a template for a replacement, from the C15 website.

Also, I drilled out bungs from the coaming (12 total.) When the bit landed against the stainless screws, it dulled,,, allot. These Forstner bits are not cheap, glad I only had to remove one dozen.


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earlylight
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by earlylight »

Here's another trick to remove the bungs.
1. Drill a small hole in the center of the bung with a regular bit. As soon as the bit hits the screw head beneath the bung, stop drilling.
2. Drive a sheet metal screw into the hole you just drilled. When it bottoms out on the screw head under the bung, just continue to drive the screw in and the threads on the sheet metal screw will draw the old bung out.
Dick Coerse
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Sabre 34 MK1
Solomons MD

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TampaBay
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Boat Type: Coronado 15

Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by TampaBay »

Hello earlylight: It dulled a new bit quickly, but was worth the price. Next time though, I'll give the sheet metal screw a try.

The bulkhead after removal. It came out in sections, some parts cut, and some parts ripped out by hand.


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The chopped strand (about 2.5mm thickness.)

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TampaBay
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Boat Type: Coronado 15

Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by TampaBay »

Here is a look under the cockpit after bulkhead removal. See the extra stick of teak, at back right? I found 2 of these pieces on that side (thanks Catalina.)

I did get a Shop-Vac into this space. The strange glob of resin loops under, and holds a Styrofoam floatation block in place, on the opposite side of that board. Also, it looks like a "foot" for the cockpit stringer (is that a pad I see on the hull?).


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TampaBay
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Boat Type: Coronado 15

Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by TampaBay »

Had a coupon from West Marine; picked up a new main sheet (white 3/8th,) and a main halyard (blue 1/4.) Also found, two good PFDs.

The rollers, I found at a place called Trailer Depot. The upgraded rollers make a big difference.

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galleywench
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by galleywench »

TampaBay wrote:Used the jig saw to remove an old bulkhead, just forward of the cockpit: The class guys say it's worthless. It is very thin, brittle, and made from chopped strand. I downloaded a template for a replacement, from the C15 website.

Also, I drilled out bungs from the coaming (12 total.) When the bit landed against the stainless screws, it dulled,,, allot. These Forstner bits are not cheap, glad I only had to remove one dozen.


Image
A little late to this thread, but removing bungs should not require power tools. Driving a small chisel or a flat head screwdriver into the center of the bung should split the bung. You can then pry out half of it with the screwdriver or chisel. The other half will then collapse toward the center of the hole without much trouble. Then you can just flick it out. I just removed ~150 bungs this way last week. You won't dull any bits or damage the underlying fastener this way either.
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Boat Type: Coronado 15

Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by TampaBay »

Hello galleywench,

I'll give that a go next time; having never done this sort of work before, and being the only man on this job, I have to move forward on projects and learn as I go.
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by galleywench »

TampaBay wrote: I have to move forward on projects and learn as I go.
That's what it's all about... Moving forward and learning as you go. Keep on keeping on. This forum has saved me countless mistakes (of course I've made countless mistakes along the way as well).
1963 Rhodes 19 #731
http://www.fernhollow.net
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Boat Type: Coronado 15

Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by TampaBay »

For example, consider this project. The centerboard is cupped at the pivot end. Will all this kerfing, clamping, carbon fiber and epoxy work? It's just too early to say, really.


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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by TampaBay »

Step one: Clamp warped sections against a fulcrum, and a steel bar. Slightly overtightened to account for spring-back.

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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by TampaBay »

Step two: Take board out to the garage, and load kerfs with epoxy (hard to see, but the epoxy is there.)

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TampaBay
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Re: Coronado 15 project.

Post by TampaBay »

Next morning, the board looks better than expected. The pin, is through the pivot bushing; it might be 1 degree off. The angle of the bushing determines foil orientation, under the boat. This is a view of the leading edge, from the rectangular head sections, down to the wet sections.

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