Introducing Katie-J

[pmnfernando]

hi!

i noticed it like a couple of weeks ago
what do you mean about alibaba hitting you guys? i buy stuff there all the time

i post some sporadic photos on facebook, on a small Van de Stadt owners group, and also on boat design and PBO. i always tell ppl to come here for more info and photos, but ive been doing that for a long long time,
these crazy numbers only started a couple of weeks ago so it doesnt make much sense, why now?!

[pmnfernando]

a lapse into the future

months ago i got my cad drawings plotted and so now i could do the cut outs and transfer them to the G10 sheets

i then cut the long lines with the grinder and did the round sections with a jigsaw. those cut are far from perfect, some can be tuned up and some dont. im not that worried because the lid has a nice overlap so all those small mistakes are pretty much always hidden aniway.

it will take me some time to get ready to glass this piece.
i need to devise a system that will,not only enable to attach the hinges, but also to easily remove/replace them in the future.
For now im thinking i will use that poltruded fibreglass corner, cut where needed to fit and tapped for metal inserts.
All of this needs to be done before the piece goes in as it would be a nightmare to have everything line up working in such small and confined spaces.

i wont have much clearance from the bottom of the cabinet to the matress but i can always get a thinner one. the sample i got was 6 inches thick. Maybe 4 inches still makes for a comfortable bunk.

[atomvoyager]

Most people find 4" medium firmness cushions sufficient for sleeping on. My boat has 3" due to cabinet doors restrictions and when I developed some back problems in recent years I unrolled a memory foam cushion on top for more comfort just when sleeping. It seems my 3" foam was a bit too firm for my back so I'd suggest choosing the firmness correctly to suit your needs.

[pmnfernando]

hi atom

the memory foam matress is a great tip.
ive just checked my order and my sample is actually 4 inch and not 6 as i previsouly mentioned. the density is 50kg/110pounds.

i guess im defo slimming that to 3 or even 2 inch plus that memory foam to make it comfortable.
on he plus side it means less money spent on sunbrella for the covers!

[CapnK]

Still no idea why the brazillion hits on the post, but - it doesn't hurt anything, so...

I've been using a "foam sandwich" that has proven comfortable: 2 inch foam on the bottom, then a yoga mat (3/8", maybe 1/2"?) in the middle, and a "memory foam" mattress topper.

The yoga mat layer seems to firm things up just enough to be really comfy with no bottoming out.

[pmnfernando]

pushing forward on some other jobs

epoxy lining the inside of the water tank lids

glueing the supporting lip for the fwd lid

trying out an epoxy putty from a taiwanese brand called Rainbow. really thick stuff to mix and apply but cures pretty fast and hard
i gave it a light initial sand with 80 just to get a feel. 40 grit will be much better for a first pass then higher grits to fine tune
just after applying

after partially sanding with 80 grit

[pmnfernando]

V berth Portside Fwd Locker

dry fitting the piano hinge

dry fitting the lid

lid closed
there is a bit of spring back on the lid which tells me the piano hinge might be bowing a little. i dont thin this will be a problem and the lid will have locks to keep it closed

after fitting the lid i proceeded to paint the interior of the locker with one coat of primer and one of paint
i had some surplus on both times so you will noticed i took the chance and applied it to the cork panels to see how they would react to the products

primer

paint

i will apply more coats of paint, with some sanding to remove the bigger runs and imperfections but i will not waste much time on it. these are lockers after all, almost always closed, so i will focus way more on the visible sections of the interior

[atomvoyager]

It will be interesting to hear how the cork works out for you under paint. I have a roll of leftover 6mm thick cork here I'd like to use on some future project.

What type primer and paint do you use in lockers? I may have mentioned before that I like to use white Interprotect 2000e or equivalent epoxy barrier coat as my only coating in lockers since it always adheres well, is rock hard, goes on easy and fairly smooth with a short nap mohair roller and disposable chip brush for corners. But the downside is you have to wear an organic filter mask.

You've worked a lot now with thin G10 board. We discussed it earlier but do you have any tips or warnings on its use now that you've worked with it so much? The long thin panels seem like they would flex a lot if not supported in some way, at least more than what's needed for a thicker plywood or a cored fiberglass board. Do you use it so much everywhere because you get it at a discounted price or just like the convenience in some ways as opposed to buying or making your own lighter weight foam cored panels with a thin layer of glass on each side. If waterproofness is you main concern then sealing the plywood with a couple coats of epoxy resin should make it last your lifetime and longer. Foam panels are more work to make I know and they don't hold fasteners well. Do you attempt to use short screws on your piano hinges that go into G10 or bolts with nuts?

[pmnfernando]

from research i knew the cork would take epoxy based products, so i knew the products would stick.
there is some inherent porosity (lacking a better term) to its surface, so this test was to see if the products would somehow fill those minute spots.
i will have to return to the boat and observe that but im pretty sure they wont be enough to fill the spots.

my initial idea was to laminate, with 3Oz cloth, all the edges of the cork panels to its adjacent surfaces (just a 1 layer lamination) and then apply a thin layer of fairing over everything to close the pores and provide a smoother surface for any other products.
i think im still doing that going foward

the products i used were: International Interprotect and International Perfection.

about the G10, i do get it straight from the manufacturer, which has its nuances.....by now we´ve established a relation over the years and ive bought quite a bit (for a private user). They are kind enough to allow me very small quantities, but wont sell less than one sheet (which for them corresponds to half a plywood sheet, so roughly 4 x 4 feet) and thats how i had to buy that 4 x 4 feet sheet of 30mm G10 which i can tell you isnt cheap even coming straight from the manufacturer.
The nice thing is that they also are keen to let me go by installments, so i could spread the costs over several months, then when i balance the total, they ship it.

I ended up choosing G10 because of the reasons you stated: i dont have to build/buy other composite panels and being solid fibreglass i know that i can drill it to install some piece of kit without worrying about having to drill-fill-drill, to avoid water intrusion over the years, which you will get with a plywood panel.
for a guy that plans to live full time on this boat in the coming years the idea was always to minimize the effort to clean and maintain it.
For example if i need to do a deep clean inside the boat, i need only to remove the stuff that cant be even partially wet and hose and scrub the boat, use the bilge pumps to dispose of that water and its done.

It is true that 3 mm G10 flexes a bit but it also depends on the span of said piece. in my last post you can see one of the biggest lids for the lockers, on one side its suppported by the piano hinge and on the opposite side its supported by a lip that was epoxied and laminated.
Although the space right above that portside locker is being used to store a foldable bike in the future, the bike will have it own custom made stand that might be even glassed to the hull (have to decide on that since now will have to remove some of the cork to glass such stand directly to the hull)even if some of the bike load will be on the lid, it wont go anywhere.

i think i mentioned it before, for 3mm thick, anything less than 500 mm span and being glassed on both side/edges is more than capable to withstand the loads.

For stuff that it is acessible , like the locker lid, im using bolts and nylocks nuts, but for things like the toerail, rubrail, tanks inspection lids and some of the interior hatches im going to use the metal inserts to attach them.
It turns a 2 man job into a single one, and thats the reason behind it. Its such a simple job when you have another person with you, but it turns into a multi day project and at times, a damn near impossible one without them.

i cant be bothered by needing another person to undo a bolt, so im investing time consuming planning and building now, to avoid all that in the future, as much as possible.

[atomvoyager]

Thanks for those details. The innovative work you're doing gives me some ideas to try out.

[pmnfernando]

closing the water tank

lining the fwd section with the epoxy coating product

laminating both lids
i dont actually use thickedned epoxy in between the contouring supporting lips and the lids, as that would create interior squeeze out which would then contact the water you will be drinking in the future.

i do place a bead of thickened epoxy, all around, but just as a filler -between the very edge of the lid and close surface itsd being tied of to- and as a fillet so that the cloth trasnsitions in a better way from horizontal to vertical direction.

As always i do 2 layers of biaxial cloth. the lid is 3 mm G10 sheet

[pmnfernando]

not much done this weekend but prepped some things for the coming one

trimmed the excess pvc pipe running thru the swtb cabinets.

installed a T section which will enable running cables thru the inside of the water tank (Ie the battery bank and from here to everywhere on the boat) and out to the future switchboard

I could then install the pvc run that will run the cables to the cockpit locker and consequently to the aft lazarette locker
the future switchboard will be built around this pvc section enabling watertightness on its interior.

Im still brainstorming the final shape/volume for the switchboard.
For now im inclined to make it a continuation of the cabinets facade and by creating all that volume i would be creating all the space needed (one hopes) for fuse blocks, bus bars, MPPT controlers, DC to DC chargers, battery switches, and all that goes with that. The plan is also to install a couple of those low voltage computers fans (intake and exhaust) to keep air circulating at all times inside.

i could then rought fit some bits of cork for the insulation
After a couple of measurements it became apparent that i wont be able to install the inverter in aft portion of this space as initially wanted.
It will have to be installed in the aft lazerette locker.
this means running more cables fore and aft but it also frees up space on top of the water tank, which means storage.
So, even if not completely happy about the inverter, i cant honestly say im unhappy with more storage..... boats eh!

I also took some time to see how the cork painted areas faired so far and to be honest im surprised at the porosity coverage. its better than i was expecting.
i am still going to apply fairing compound and sand because i want a neat finish (and because the cork got dented from bracing it into shape with struts which exerted a fair amount of pressure to make it conform to hull shape) but if you have a clean glued up panel, i would venture that a couple of primer coats, plus 2 coats of paint will do the job.

[pmnfernando]

birthing a new locker

after some time having a look inside and out, i thought that an extra self draining cockpit locker to starboard was a possibility given that i have the space for in internally

installing the locker fwd wall

tabbing the bottom wall and keeping it level
you will notice an inboard slant to promote self draining

closing the space with the "back wall"

i could then sketch the cut lines on the cockpit seats

after cutting

all laminations done on the inside

cup of coffee for perspective

[pmnfernando]

isolating the engine room from the rest of the cabin

due to the way i built the water tank - with an inbuilt semi circle molding to make space for the ballvalves - that meant the engine rooam wasnt isolated from the main cabin.

i plugged those semi circles with cork layers and laminated over them to waterproof everything

i used 3 layers of cork, to a total of 90mm thick. that should help in keeping heat and sound contained

view of aft plug

after laminating

[pmnfernando]

reinforcing the stem

when i first started the refit i had bought a couple of solid grp round corner rectangular section to use in the main cabin for a specific project (not spoiling it, i will mentioned it when the time comes for that), but then i thought some more and ended up getting a different solution.

Well, i ended up with those, rather heavy actually, sections and no use for them.

i then thought that reinforcing the stem would be a good idea, not only because it would make it stronger, but it would also in fastening anything in the future should the need arise (say i wanted to fasten a bobstay chainplate for example).

With this in mind the first step was to shape the soild grp section to fit which i did by tracing it very loosely, cutting the bigger bits with and angle grinder and fine tuning with a flap disk

then i epoxied to the hull

because of its shape i felt the need to fill the space between the piece and the topsides as a way of bridging that gap.
at this stage i had numerous thin, bendy, leftover strips of 3mm G10

epoxying the strips

epoxying the strips really helped in saving resin by acting like a filler but the finish was still too rugged so i decided to slap some of that epoxy putty (brown patches), spread it as well as i could and with it still fresh i laminated one layer of biaxial cloth to smooth everything out. no problems during curing and i think that i have a good enough surface to paint

[pmnfernando]

"change of plans"

initially i thought about making this stb cabinet into 2 halves.
you can see the divider was yet to be finished as i had to laminate another piece of G10.

a few months ago i was using a tool - either the grinder or the driller with a large hole saw - and had one of them freakish incidents where the tools just escapes your hands and it crashed onto the divider - which was only epoxy tabbed to the hull and walls - and actually broke some of the tabbing.
yeah, it was that violent.
i cant really remember which tool i was using but it was an impressive impact.

aniway, i carried on, unscathed, and told myself i would fix that later on.
fast forward a few months and i got a new layout idea for that space.
first thing was to remove the existing G10 sheet

then i took some measurements and basically scribbled 3 main lines:

with the lines scribbled on the side walls i could insulate this space.
instead of the 30 mm thick cork i opted to apply 2 cork sheets of 6mm each, to maximize the available space.

seeing how the new layout consists of a top shelf and 2 drawers, and my obsession about making the most out of every cubic mm/inch, i thought, it would be smart to take a moulding of the hull between those 2 side walls.
usually i just use cheap gaffa tape as a release agent, but was afraid the bond would be too strong towards the thin cork sheets and decided to apply a first layer with painters tape which has a far less sticky adhesive

then i applied the brown gaff tape and laminated 4 layers of biaxial cloth onto that area

it was ready for demoulding the following day

so for now i have the back of my future drawers done ensuring i can utilize as much space as possible.

stay tuned, more to follow!

[pmnfernando]

keeping on other jobs

got the grinder with a 40grit flap disk and went thru the aft deck and around the aft hatch

before

after grinding and rinsing

on the interior im trying to square the available internal volume since its much easier to build around right angles than curved surfaces
this small partition was glassed to provide a flat surface as well as a place for insulation, as it will be filled with PU foam in the near future

[pmnfernando]

new bow hatch

since i made the decision of installing a watertight anchor locker/collision bulkhead, it always made sense to make that space accessible from the deck rather than opening the bulkhead (which will be held in place by a decent amount of bolts)

After all, the only stuff it will house is the chain and warp so, in a pickle, i need to access that space to untangle anything that might have went awry.

i got hold of a nice 316 stainless hatch and placed on deck to have a feel for its best location, knowing it will always be to port since the chain will run to starboard
(that other opening - when will i ever stop!-, is for another project im currently building)

i had taken measurements from the hatch, made a cad file and had it cnc cut into a plywood template

with the template i was able to transfer it onto 6 mm G10 sheet, creating a "washer" that will level the deck making completely flat to receive the hatch.
luckily i had a hole saw that is the exact inner diameter. i cut the outside diameter with a jigsaw

dry fitting the washer to determine where i had to flush cut so it would fit the toerail moulding

i then put everything together marked where the bolts would be done and glassed the washer in

after curing i was able to tap threads

and install the metal inserts

and finally bolting it down

this project is almost finished. i will laminate a couple of layers of glass on top of the washer to ensure nothing will move in the future

[pmnfernando]

starting the drawers build

having established those 3 lines (see previous post) i now knew where to start, so i templated the top shelf ,the bottoms and sides of the 2 drawers

tabbing the top shelf

having cut the drawers side panels, it was time to create space for the sliders im installing in the near future.
they will be medium duty and lock in and lock out type ones.
i went online got their dimensions and added a few mm and got to a final dimension. with this info i then went to a nearby wood shop and had a strip of 9mm thick plywood cut.

i measured 30 mm form the top of the drawer, placed the strip a and scribbled the cut line

after cutting the panels and dry fitting the plywood strip/spacer.
the slider thickness is 12 mm and since the plywood is 9mm thick, that gives me a 3 mm clearance on both sides once everything gets put together

laminating the recess

demoulding the spacer

this is where i am currently.
i have yet to glass the bottom which will be followed by the hull shaped laminated piece

[pmnfernando]

"AC cabinet" works

This cabinet is one of the few features from the original design i havent completely altered.
I say completely because it used to be a "full" height cabinet and i decided i wanted a shelf, so it meant i would reduce the height, making it suitable - i hope - to house a AC unit and some other stuff.

The shelf inkling came as an effort to make the interior of the boat appear more spacious, revealling the cabin top curves, whilst enhacing acess to the STB main chainplate nuts

I prepped the plywood partition, gave it a quick sand since it has been years since the begining of the works and i had dirt and epoxy splashes
outside

inside

i cut out of 3 mm G10, dry fitted it, had it levelled and then tabbed it in.

next day was time for some laminations
outside corners

inside corners

And i also decided to laminate a single layer of cloth on the partition plywood,
i have yet to laminate the interior, but i had time to do the outside.

This was done with leftover cutouts from previous lams jobs.
I keep some of the best pieces and then throw them together with a very slight overlap. The use of peelply helps in levelling the pieces, but since it will be as a painted surface, it will be faired and sanded so any imperfections will disappear

[pmnfernando]

A couple of posts ago i couldnt get around a spoiler by showing yet another hole ive done in my stb bow.

That opening is for a new compartment being built inside the anchor locker.
The idea came about because i realized i would need a tool to help me unscrew that shinning stainless access hatch ive installed.
So it made sense having it stored where it will be most used: at the bow, at night, when everything is going bonkers.
The aplications for that space quickly grew in order to house future windlass buttons, some cam lock fitting to help transitioning the water lines and cabling from the nav lights (future install) from the deck to the boat's interior.

I try not to make a big fuss when its time to puch a whole in the deck. pretty much all of it its "aesthetically eyeballed", meaning that if it looks right, it might be right. i do take some care ensuring i cut the surfaces whilst retaining a bit of a lip where i can tab and laminate should that need arise in the future.
In the photo thats apparent by the 50 mm distance between the toerail and the closest cut line

detail of gap between the deck and grp cabin liner

i still have soft spots on the deck,and seeing this made me think if they arent, apart from the boat age, one of the reasons why i have them.
because ive been rebuilding so much of the interior with vertical pieces that connect the hull to the deck, ive eliminated deck flexing to a great extent.
i will try to improve this situation by mixing very runny epoxy and just pour it down in the affected areas, effectively bridging these gaps together and maybe getting rid of the soft spots.

it was then time to pattern the aft and fwd walls of the compartment, making sure to include an outboard and forward going slant to make it self draining

tabbing the walls

tabbing the bottom

tabbing the last panel

you will notice this last panel is oversized.
i needed surfaces to apply the epoxy, to keep in place when i laminate it from the inside. after that it will be trimmed, rounded and laminated over

[pmnfernando]

in case you are left wondering what are those 2 holes to port below the big one for the hatch compartment, ive bought some neat polypropilene cam fittings.
These are watertight and will be used to enable a water line at the bow and as a way of pumping water out since i will have a permanent roving bilge pump installed, ready to be used at all times.
Propylene isnt UV resistant so so they have to be used inside.

Cam fittings

couple of views

when not in use they can be capped

[pmnfernando]

building the drawers

ive started to build them by doing the bottom one first.
building this one first will enable to set up a base where i can then lay the foundation for the top one

tabbing the bottom to the sides
i have used a 9mm plywood spacer to build the recess for the sliders, but i chose to assemble the drawers with a 15mm spacer instead. might be splitting hairs but we dont want to resort to drastic resizing because of a couple of mm, that'd be a time waster!

i didnt got a photo but after tabbing the sides to the bottom i reinstalled the laminated back piece and had it tabbed to the asembly
next photo shows it after removal from the cabinet

next photo shows the underside of the drawer still with the excess of the back piece just before it was trimmed

this is after trimming but before rounding up with the flap disk to a "cloth friendly radius", making it easier to laminate.
i use a 12mm rounding bit on a trimmer whenever i have straight surfaces but in these situations i just free hand being carefully not to remove too much material

epoxy gap filling ability 1

epoxy gap filling ability 2

with all the rounding done could proceed to laminated both the interior and exterior
always 2 layers
interior

exterior

now that i have a very sturdy assembly i could place it back onto the cabinet and start tabbing the upper drawer

i have yet to finish both drawers, as i need to epoxy and laminate the upper one and then trim both of them back in relation to their facade. both of them stand proud of the cabinet as of now.
maybe some adjustments will be needed about their respective height (nothing major, we re talking mm) so that everything fits in the end

[pmnfernando]

STB cabinet works

some post ago i showed the facade of the STB cabinet in place, mentioning that i still had a lot of work to do before that happens.
and all that work starts with epoxying the poltruded grp corner piece to the inside of the cabnet piece
i chose to get a full run as it is much easier to get everything lined up to the same height when the time comes to attach the hinges.

the hinges will be placed in a template fashion, onto a 3mm piece of G10 which will, in turn, be bolted to the GRP corner piece. this way it possible to expedite the process whilst making sure that each lid will be pretty much identical (thats the theory!)
it also means that any future repairs ensure that the lid is taken out as one piece (lid plus hinges) which i think helps

this photo is the classic "the more clamps the merrier", i thought 6 clamps would be enough...ended up using 10....

after cure detail

before trimming

after trimming
here i trimmed lenghtwise and also making space for the partitions wall between the different spaces
[attachment=1]after trimming lengt and partition wise.jpg

[pmnfernando]

"spring clean"

i dont think i will have time to do much more on the boat as its already warming up "Asia style" in this place.
this means that its impossible to work inside until october (fingers crossed for this year, because in 2023 one could swear we were in July, mid November!)

with this in mind i thought: maybe cleaning the boat its not a bad idea

i was sincerely expecting a bigger difference but i can assure you its eons better than the effing palaver it was!

[pmnfernando]

Mast compression works

Since the very begining this was an area in need of work seeing how the existing arrangement has failed.
It was comprised of a goal poste in the aft face of the main bullkhead and a simple metal angle piece (6mm thick) on the fwd face. both were bent.

Going back a couple of pages you will find my solution.
I designed the pieces in Cad and had it made by a metal shop.
The guys at the metal shop actually bent the metal sheet as opposed to welding them together at 90 degrees at one another, as i had initially specified. i actually think bending makes the whole thing stronger.

It was the time to get the whole system together, which i did and had a slight slant towards portside that i said i wouldnt correct. i lied.
i ended up correcting it as you will see

to begin with i epoxied a G10 3 mm sheet to make for the flatest surface possible onto which the metal pieces will be affixed.
i opted for this choice after the firsts dry runs and observing how the surfaces werent matching.

prior to glueing the G10 it was time to correct the slant
so i plugged all the holes minus the one which would enable me to hinge the whole piece with the least amount of overall change

fwd surfacing in G10

with the vertical surfaces done i one again used the metal pieces, bolted them to the bulkhead and simply stuffed the gap with previously cut G10 sheets and loads of thickened epoxy in order to have everything squeezing out on me. and i did! i had resin in my hair for days!

before demoulding

after demoulding

after demoulding 2

from the deck it was apparent that i was unable to completly fill the last couple of mm

i mixed some pure resin and poured it untill all was filled

after this i could cut the vent holes with a hole saw

still more filling to do, im not worried about these gaps it wont affect anything structurally

[pmnfernando]

Lastly, i drilled the hole in the metal piece with a hole saw. that was a bit of a fight and i need a new hole saw to finish the second vent hole- i was able to have the pilot hole done so it will be pretty easy to do.

this project is almost done, i still need to do one more application of thickened epoxy in order to completely fill all the spots missed during the previous runs.
i will be using the metal pieced as clamps for that.

[CapnK]

Resin in your hair for days.

I'll be doing similar to Katie Marie soon, finishing up the inside area where my mast brace will be mounted to the overhead. Your 3mm G10 solution works better than did my try at wrapping the overhead support in waxed paper and using it to hold and shape wet glass up against the overhead... My brace is 3 flats at angles to each other, center horizontal, side angles following those of the overhead, loosely. Ideal would have been to get the aluminum guy to make a nice bend. Couldn't take boat to his shop, however..

[pmnfernando]

i can only hope what i did will hold up in the future.
if this metal work gets bent....i will be thinking that this boat is untamable! ahah

i had "fun" at times.....epoxy coming from all places, both hands full, heavy pieces, bolts to insert, things wading and slipping as you pushed on them ehehhe,

dont forget to share those photos!