Allied Seawind 30 Integral Water Tank Build

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lsheaf
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Allied Seawind 30 Integral Water Tank Build

Post by lsheaf »

Hey guys,

Here are some photos of my AS30 integral water tank build.

I must say this has been the most challenging project I’ve undertaken so far, mainly because I live on board. Removing the old tank along and grinding back all of the thicken resin holding the tank in place was quite the job! However, I have been lucky to spend a few nights elsewhere while the fiberglass layup was curing.

I have cut all of the baffles out of 3/4” plywood but am becoming more concerned about possible water intrusion.

What do you guys think about solid fiberglass baffles? 4-5 layers of Biaxial fiberglass and then trace out the plywood baffles I have fitted already.
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lsheaf
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Re: Allied Seawind 30 Integral Water Tank Build

Post by lsheaf »

More pictures.

I did layup some biax in case I decide to make solid fiberglass baffles. If not I can always use it for backing pads and other projects.
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atomvoyager
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Re: Allied Seawind 30 Integral Water Tank Build

Post by atomvoyager »

3/4" ply is thicker than what's needed because it will have at least one layer of glass on each side. For these small baffles 3/8" is sufficient or 1/2" max. I just made an integral water tank using all Divinycell foam board for sides, top and baffles to save some weight and stop any chance of future rot. Your solid fiberglass baffles should work fine with the advantage over glassed plywood that they can never rot. You mention the number of layers, which I assume is a thick fiberglass such as 1708. In that case, depending how large the unsupported area is, they should be OK. You don't want them flexing and cracking so 1/4" thickness would be a good minimum. Larger panels, say over 16", would need to be thicker. In that case the cost and weight of solid epoxy/glass no longer makes sense and you should switch to foam core. Yours are not large so weight and cost of them is not much of an issue. You can also use G10 but may be cheaper to make your own.
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Re: Allied Seawind 30 Integral Water Tank Build

Post by atomvoyager »

It may be a photo illusion, but the white color in your new fiberglass in the bilge looks like it may have insufficient resin, or what's called a dry layup. Usually the glass is more transparent when properly wetted out. Not possible to fix it easily in this situation other than adding another thinner layer of cloth on top with plenty of resin to ensure water cannot penetrate the dry fibers below. In the future, to make sure you have the glass saturated on thick fiberglass such as 1708, first apply resin to the bonding surface, and then to the back of the glass, then lay it in and apply more to the top. Don't try to do too large an area at one time or it may start to harden up before you get it all wetted out.
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Re: Allied Seawind 30 Integral Water Tank Build

Post by lsheaf »

I did grind back most of the unsaturated fiberglass. I believe some of those spots absorbed water from the forward bilge after I left the boat. I did add another 1-2 layers of 1708 on top and I’m confident it is well sealed at this point.

In the next photos I prepare the new fiberglass baffles to be tabbed into the tank. To ensure the bottom of the new cabin sole sits flush with the top of the baffles, I made a template using plywood and small pieces 1” x 1” x 4” pieces of planed mahogany. I fit one side of a Mahogany piece flush with top edge of a given baffle, predrilled an 1/8” hole through the baffle and mahogany, and screwed together. Repeat for each baffle. Then on the bottom of a piece of plywood, I fit each baffle into place and screwed the baffle component into the plywood via the piece of mahogany.

This allows port and starboard adjustment of the latitudinal and longitudinal baffles in the tank by removing only a handful of screws when fitting the entire assembly.

I then cut two more pieces of planed Mahogany which are to support the removable arm supports for the entire assembly. The removable arms are measured to overlap the 2” existing sole flange by approximately 1/2”. The ends of the removable arms are wrapped with a thin plastic material to prevent epoxy bonding between the arm and the flange.

These are intentionally made to be removed one at a time so I could fiberglass over the tank flange with two layers of 4” wide fiberglass tape while still supporting the structure.
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Re: Allied Seawind 30 Integral Water Tank Build

Post by lsheaf »

Photos
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lsheaf
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Re: Allied Seawind 30 Integral Water Tank Build

Post by lsheaf »

A bad picture of one of the removable arms while fiberglassing the flange.
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Re: Allied Seawind 30 Integral Water Tank Build

Post by atomvoyager »

That jig solution is clever and will work but is more elaborate than what's needed to temporarily hold the baffles in place. I just make a cardboard pattern of the baffles using a string as a guide for the height with about 1/8" gap between baffle and tank top and then cut out the baffle. Once I've got it shaped to fit I secure it in place either with tape on one side and then start glassing in from the other side or if I need it held more securely I carefully drill a few 1/8" holes about 3/8" deep into the hull along the edges of the baffle and secure it with #8 x 1/2" stainless screws. Then I apply a bead of thickened epoxy along the edges and before it hardens lay the glass tape over it.

When I'm ready to place the tank top I put a bead of thickened epoxy on the top edges of the baffles and the perimeter of the hull to bond to the top as it's lowered down. Then only the top of the tank is glassed to the hull around its perimeter.
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Re: Allied Seawind 30 Integral Water Tank Build

Post by Lloyd »

Big project. Baffle jig looks really good. Holds them good while allowing plenty of room to work around.
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Re: Allied Seawind 30 Integral Water Tank Build

Post by lsheaf »

Looking back, I probably could have saved a lot of time by doing something more simple but I am pretty satisfied with the results. Sometimes I’m too much of a perfectionist and make things more complex than needed.

As for a water pickup fitting, will a plastic fitting sealed with silicone be suffice?
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Re: Allied Seawind 30 Integral Water Tank Build

Post by atomvoyager »

That will work. You may have noticed in my tank videos that I use a 1/2" mushroom outlet when, as in your case, the lower end of the tank is accessible. I've been using Multicaulk but silicone can work. Otherwise I epoxy in from the top a 1/2" OD copper pickup tube that reaches the bottom.
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Re: Allied Seawind 30 Integral Water Tank Build

Post by lsheaf »

Thanks for the response. I’ll look around and see what I can find for a mushroom fitting. Otherwise I have some 1/2” and 5/8” copper refrigerant tubing I can use.
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Re: Allied Seawind 30 Integral Water Tank Build

Post by atomvoyager »

West Marine has a Plastic Mushroom Head Thru-Hull Connection, Barbed for $12. I get them wholesale for $5. I guess it would be much cheaper to use the copper tube you have on hand and glass a piece in horizontally near the bottom of the tank. I assumed you'll use a Whale foot pump but if using some electric pump then maybe a different OD is needed.
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