Sadler 25 Refit for Ocean Cruising

Rich P · Post by **Rich P** » Tue Jan 11, 2011 7:13 pm

Well here we go again!

I've left all this here for historical accuracy! This list is obsolete, some of it complete some of it not, all updates will be at the bottom!

I've finally got round to starting the blog for my new project, if any of you have read my old one you'll know that I now have a new boat that doesn't need half as much work!

This is my attempt to document the process, no doubt I'll need to ask for help and advice along the way, but thats the spirit of a forum :).

First off the planning! Its by no means a finished plan, but it gives me a direction for the moment and highlights what I need to be planning next.
Sadler 25 "Polaris"

Overview
The plan is to refit the boat in a manner that will allow me to live aboard in reasonable comfort, obviously being a 25footer there are limitations on this, but I think I should be able to manage a small well insulated cool box, some form of heating for when I'm in temperate climates, also to help dry out boat if its got soaked inside from bad weather etc. And preferably hot and cold running water, I know on this size boat its rather overkill, but if I'm living on board than I want some comfort! I'll use a hand pump when on passage.

I shall also be beefing up the various fittings etc for taking the boat offshore, I would like to do a transatlantic and possibly more, so a good well prepared boat is essential.

Areas that still require planning:

Electrical System Done!
Deck Layout
Heating/Water Systems Done!

Work to be completed:
Hull

Clean + Polish
Fill and Repair Gelcoat
Name + Stripe Vinyls

Deck

Complete Deck Layout Plan
Re-Bed Existing Deckhardware (Prevent Leaks)
Re-Seal Windows and Forehatch
Renew Guard Wire Ropes
Renew Non-Skid

Engine

Remove Old Engine Done!
Red Oxide Mounts Done!
Fit New Engine Done!
Change Fuel Tank Done!
Change Fuel Lines Done!
Change Water Inlet Hose Done!
Change Water Inlet Seacock

Mast

Replace All Lines
Replace All Blocks
Give it a thorough examination
Fit LED Tri-Colour
Fit Steaming Light

Interior

Renew Varnish
Make Interior Plan

Systems

Plan Water/Heating System
Un-stick all the blakes seacocks
Remove old water tank
Measure up for Windvane

Electrics

Remove all old electrics Done!
Re-site batteries
Design Electrical System Done!

Heating
Heating is going to be a blown air system from Eberspacher, it does draw a large amount of current initially, but once running is pretty economical on both power and fuel.
Eventually when I can (one day!) afford one, I'd like to switch to something like this which is VERY low power consumption! :)
http://www.kuranda.co.uk/new-wallas-heaters.html

Rich P · Post by **Rich P** » Tue Jan 11, 2011 7:47 pm

First steps!

When I first bought her, she was in a marina, and paid up till the 31st of December. The priority was to get the new engine in so that I could move her up to her new mud berth, which is around 10x cheaper, and also being a part of a sailing club is far better for working on board as the club house has warm water and the shed has a bench and vice!

Unfortunately immediately after I made my plans the UK was battered with lots and lots of snow, making work rather awkward, however needs must!
The first job was to remove the engine from the old boat, luckily the beam that had formerly supported the cover was ideal for a block and tackle:

In preperation I had already cleaned the engine area and covered the engine mounts in red oxide aboard "Dreadnought"
The boom was utilised on the newer boat and before long a new engine was in situ:

I bolted down the mounts and connected the coupling, and then hooked up all the electrics, controls, fuel lines and water inlet + exhaust. After turning the engine over for 15s with the valve lifer up I turned the key.
It thudded into life instantly, I was rather impressed, it was -3, the engine had not been ran in 2 years and it has no glow-plugs!

After running the engine on the berth in gear for some time I determined there were no problems with the installation, however there was a problem with the marina! It was frozen solid, I had to wait over a week for it to defrost sufficiently to get to the lock.

Eventually the marina cleared and I was able to make the 15 mile journey up the river to the mud berth:

Rachel · Post by **Rachel** » Tue Jan 11, 2011 9:07 pm

Well this is going to be fun to follow - thanks!

Plus, one is always reading about things such as "mud berths" in quirky/older British sailing tales, so it makes me feel like we're on an exotic adventure ;)

Rachel

Chris Campbell · Post by **Chris Campbell** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 9:36 am

She looks great, and I'm impressed that your motor transplant went so well! Were you replacing it with an identical engine?

I'd love to see some pictures of her in her mud berth, also, if you can manage it - that's not something we're familiar with on this side of the pond (certainly not in this part of this side of the pond, that is!).

Thanks,

Chris

Rich P · Post by **Rich P** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 12:16 pm

Do you not get tidal estuaries full of swatchways and creeks on your side of the pond?

Its an easy choice for me, around £200ish for a years berthing here, and use of all the showers, club house bar, facilities etc. Or I can pay over £2000 in the local marina... Not!

I've not told the full story, but I could tell I was getting tired last night because I was trying to write as quickly and as little as possible so I shall be updating more soon :)

I'll get some information about the mudberths as well!

Rachel · Post by **Rachel** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 1:40 pm

We might get the occasional marina slip where your keel touches at low tide, but no actual, on purpose "mud berths" that I know of in the US, or Canada (but I'm less sharp on Canada). That's why they sound so exotic --- you always read about them in British cruising books, which are also full of foreign ports, fell walking, pints, bills, firths, and etc. :)

Post by **Tim** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 2:16 pm

Is it possible that routine American stuff sounds similarly exotic to the English and others?

Rich P · Post by **Rich P** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 4:08 pm

Hmm, I'm not sure.
Britain seems to have a monopoly on sailing literature, I've never ready many cruising stories pertaining to America, in fact the only sailing novel I've read by an American is Sailing alone around the World - Joshua Slocum.

The only exotic things I can think of regards cruising in America is you call berths in marina's "slip's", and the fact you have such a vast cruising area at your disposal.

I'll give a bit of a description of these particular mud berths, I'm not sure if the mooring arrangement is unique to the Humber or not:

The boats settle completely up to their marks in soft mud, when you first put a boat on a birth you'll be listing when the tides out, but this goes after a week or so when the yacht has dug herself a hole.
You moor bow or stern to the pontoon, and to stop the boat swinging into others you have a stern line. This is simply a length of (non floating) warp to around the middle of the creek, its then attached to a heavy chain which carries on the rest of the way across and is attached to a stake driven into the opposite bank.
When the boats are floating the weight of the chain is suspended underwater from the stern cleat of the boat and holds the stern of the pontoon. The chains are long enough that a yacht can pass over them without the keel touching.

Access is only really 1 1/2 hours either side of HW, and on some neaps you'll only float at almost high water. The price for cheap mooring I guess :)

P.S. The engine was easy, it was a straight swap, a 1GM for a 1GM :)

Shoalcove · Post by **Shoalcove** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 8:57 pm

Well, we certainly don't have a set up like that in Canada's Maritime provinces! It does look like a great setup but I think we have a little too much winter to get away with that!
On the subject of sailing stories, there are plenty of sailing books published in Canada and the US ( although they are often very similar- "we sold our house, bought a boat and sailed to the Caribbean, or around the world and got in a storm but it was great!" ) My favourite is still Riddle of the Sands.BTW, as a proud Bluenoser I must point out that Joshua Slocum was a Nova Scotian.
Tim, you may be correct but American culture gets pretty good distribution. I'm curious to hear Rick's perspective.
Cheers!

Rich P · Post by **Rich P** » Sat Jan 15, 2011 4:09 pm

Well here's a photo of her in the mud for you:

Generally speaking the creek is pretty sheltered although on very large tides 9.1m + usually we can get waves over the river bank, the channel to get out is fairly straightforward at the moment, our sister creek on the other side of the river has had some silting problems and the channel is tortuous, you are completely out of sight of the river before even being halfway in!

We are about 30miles from the North Sea, but on springs tides can often reach 5-6knots in places, so if you go down with the ebb you usually make a fast passage. Although with that much tide, it can get quite nasty when you get a strong wind against tide.

Anyway back to the boat!

I've lately been getting on with 3 areas, the electrics, the water system and the fuel system.
Shortly after I first got the boat, I was listening in on some VHF chatter, when suddenly the whole system went dead, accompanied by an awful burning smell! I dived for the battery master switch in an attempt to prevent my new baby going up in ashes, fortunately I made it in time.
Well I finally got around to looking into the problem, and it re-confirmed my view that I was going to have to strip all of the electrics off the boat:

Its not easy to make out from the picture, but the chocolate block bus bar has fused into one plastic glob!

I decided the spaghetti had to go, so I ripped the lot out, I am now waiting on the wiring schematic I am making before I start installing the new stuff!

Next on the list of stuff to be ripped out was the water tank, it was an old flexible plastimo thing. The filler and tap feed lines were both green with mould! The water stunk when pumped out, it had to go.
Not much to say really apart from the fact that the area is a pig to access, and I manage to slap myself in the face with a hose full of stagnant water as I removed the sink feed.
(The tank makes use of the space under the cockpit, just aft of the mini-bulkhead behind the engine.

It looks like the P-Bracket is glassed in the same space, which will be a pain if I want to replace with a solid tank in the same location.

Rich P · Post by **Rich P** » Sat Jan 15, 2011 4:33 pm

I'd planned on leaving the fuel system for a while, however when the myriad of old brittle copper joints decided to start leaking, my hand was forced!
I'm planning on replacing the tank at the same time because the old mild steel one is covered with rust and best consigned to the scrap-heap.
So anyway, after sponging well over a litre of diesel out of the bilges I got to work,

The tank was bolted onto the bulkhead separating the quaterberth from the lazarette, you can see the puddle of diesel in the bottom. Apart from the access, the bolts came off easily enough, allowing me to extricate (with great difficulty) the tank from the locker. Diesel splashing everywhere of course!

Next I ripped out the fuel lines, there were some bodges to make even me proud! The feed pipe wasn't too bad, but the return was three different size lengths of flexible hose clamped onto each other with Jubilee clips hahaha, what a mess.

The previous way had copper pipe from the tank through to the primary filter, (with a water separator), and a short length of copper pipe exiting this with flexible pipe clamped onto that, going to the engine.
I decided to run flexible pipe all the way through, its easier to fit, less subject to fatigue, and in an area of the boat where it shouldn't be damaged easily. Its also easier to replace.
I replaced both the in and out copper pipes on the filter with proper copper hose tails. (Sorry no pics till tomorrow!) and did the same for the pick up and return on the new tank.

I shall be using proper quality fuel hose as shown here:

Next we needed to create a base to install the new tank on, this was a horizontal tank, not one that bolted vertically to the bulkhead, its still halfway through the build, thought I have a couple of WIP progress pics, you can't see much.

The plan tomorrow is to give the area a good vac out, then with soapy water and a bit of bleach was out all of the lockers on the boat, some of which are a bit smelly and need a good lick of paint.
To this end I've emptied all of the lockers (its amazing how much stuff you can fit on board), quite impressed with the stowage space, should be an advantage when on passage.

Rachel · Post by **Rachel** » Sun Jan 16, 2011 12:01 am

Rich P wrote:...but the return was three different size lengths of flexible hose clamped onto each other with Jubilee clips hahaha, what a mess.

See what I mean? Even your hose clamps sound exotic and festive ;)

Sounds like you are getting in there and gettin'er done! Thanks for the posts/photos. That fuel line sounds like a nightmare.

Rachel

Rich P · Post by **Rich P** » Sun Jan 16, 2011 5:09 am

Rachel wrote:
See what I mean? Even your hose clamps sound exotic and festive ;)

Sounds like you are getting in there and gettin'er done! Thanks for the posts/photos. That fuel line sounds like a nightmare.

Rachel

They are actually called Hose Clamps here as well! However a really well known and respected manufacturer of them is Jubilee, so they often go by that name!
I guess for the same reason that we often call Vacuum Cleaners, Hoovers after the famous brand.

Rachel · Post by **Rachel** » Sun Jan 16, 2011 1:37 pm

Well we have a lot of those names too: Kleenex, ChapStik, Band-Aid, etc. But Jubilee Clips always cracks me up because typically, if you're working with a hose clamp, it's anything but a Jubilee. It would be like having that happen with a grinder brand called LovelyDay or MerryMaker ;)

(Maybe Festool is working on us subliminally?)

Rich P · Post by **Rich P** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 6:51 pm

I'll come up with a better name for it eventually! I'll still be posting here, because people appreciate the more technical nature of detailing a refit. The blog will be about what I get up to when I go, with a mainly picture based look at the refit, but I'll also be covering the other aspects, planning etc on it.
It's been a while since I've written apart from on forums or forms! So hopefully my writing style will improve as I go along and get a little less matter of fact :P

Anyway, I never got around to finishing writing my progress from the weekend :).
First of all, I got a little but important job sorted:

Work continued on the fuel tank platform, I did hope to have it glassed in, but the english weather had other idea's and rain setting in at about 3 put an end to that plan, heres a pic of it trial fitted in situ. Trimmed enough to give me access to the transom.

I also fitted the fuel pipes to the engine from the filter, with proper fuel hose, rather than crappy clear tubing! It looks far more professional, photo's to follow once its finished :)

I did discover some rather cavalier building practices however, the first picture is the bolts for one of the pushpit bases, hardly what you'd call a well secured installation.
Not quite sure what to do here, maybe some form of glassing to get a level with the deck joint then a massive backing pad. Any thoughts?

The next two photo's show the bolts that attach the rudder pintles to the transom, these bolts came LOOSE whist on the short 15 mile motor up to the boats current locations! They had only been hand tight, scandalous! They will be getting Nylock nuts with loctite threadlock as well.
However before all that, they need some backing pads... unbelievable that the rudder of the boat has no form of load spreading.
I will also be re-sealing the blocks they are mounted to as it looks like they have been weeping.

Thats it for today folks :)

bigd14 · Post by **bigd14** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 7:39 pm

Looking good! I overcame surface irregularities for my backing plates with lots of thickened epoxy (slow hardener, cold days) and mashed the backing plates into it. I also took to adding chopped fiberglass into my thickend epoxy for additional strength. Which is likely not needed for backing plates, but what the heck. Consider it a little gift to the next owner...

Rachel · Post by **Rachel** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 7:45 pm

A couple of thoughts:

1) On the stern pulpit bases, I think I would prep the area (it can stay somewhat uneven but I mean solvent-wash, abrade, etc.), and then "moosh" a solid FRP backing block in place with thickened epoxy. That way the block can stay "level" for the fasteners and yet still make good contact with the irregular underside of the deck.

2) On the rudder pintle fasteners - is that the transom they are coming through? The rusty "droozles" make me wonder if that area is cored, and if you might want to investigate/overdrill/fill, etc.

Rachel

Rich P · Post by **Rich P** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 7:59 pm

Thanks for the advice you two, think I'll go with that for the backing plate! :)

The transom isn't thick enough or stiff enough IMO to be cored, however I have also found that while all the other chainplates are substantial, the backstay is just a U bolt with a tiny backing pad going to the deck.
I was thinking about glassing an epoxy protected sheet of 12mm marine ply to the transom on the inside (well cut to fit obv) which should make the transom much stronger to bear the load a chainplate through bolted, and the self steering gear.

Rich P · Post by **Rich P** » Tue Jan 25, 2011 5:39 pm

Well time for an update!

I've pretty much finished the fuel system now, there's a few problems I need to iron out, I'll explain later in the post.

This is the area that the tank was to go over, pretty grotty from diesel spills and neglect:

Fortunately a wash and then lick of paint soon rights it! The area will be out of sight, but I might as well leave it with some protection.

Next job was to affix the platform for the tank in place, I had already built a strong frame, and could probably have got away without glassing it in, but I thought in the interested of rigidity and just in case, I'd give it two layers of glass tape and epoxy..
Maybe its just me, but I'm sure whenever I look at photo's of Tims glassing it seems much more substantial and stronger, not sure if I'm maybe use to light a cloth? Any tips appreciated.

I took advantage of some left over epoxy to sort out some locker doors that had pulled the screws from the hinges.

While the epoxy was drying I got on with other jobs, namely sorting out the tank and filter fuel line fittings, these hose tails could probably do without Jubilee clips, a complete nightmare to pull them back off when you want to adjust something!

I also took advantage of the unnaturally mild weather to air out the sails a bit, and have a trial fit of the storm jib.

From the looks of things the sails have never seen an angry man.... Until they met me :)
The storm jib has hanks, which are a no go with the furler, it doesn't really matter because I'm going to have to rig an innerstay anyway. The mast is insufficiently supported fore and aft at the lowers due to very little to no sweep back on the shrouds and only one set of lowers.
The other reason is that even if I could hank the jib onto the forestay it would move the centre of effort way to far forward for the conditions in which I'd be using the sail, much better on an innerstay and not constantly blowing the head away from the wind.
I'll create a reinforced area of deck (not sure how I'll go about it yet) and then use a dyneema stay onto a deck eye.
Probably tensioned with a highfield lever.

mitiempo · Post by **mitiempo** » Tue Jan 25, 2011 6:02 pm

The storm jib hanks will chafe the Dyneema - best to use stainless.

Rich P · Post by **Rich P** » Tue Jan 25, 2011 6:06 pm

Once the epoxy was cured, I gave the whole tank area and platform a coat of bilgepaint... I often wonder if I should go with white as it would make the locker much brighter and easier to work in.

(Sorry no pics for this part.. yet)
I ran the fuel lines through to the engine, installed a fuel valve, hooked up the breather and filler. (More on that later!) Put 5l of diesel in the tank and bled the system.
It was low water so I couldn't run the engine at this point, but as I'd stripped the old electrical system I spent the time putting in some rudimentary electrics. (Basically I've just hooked the engine up to the battery!)
I also properly fitted the engine control panel, the panel was bigger than the one for the previous 1gm as it came with a tachometer and various other warning lights.
Bit of a squeeze fitting it into the panel, but I managed!

When running the loom I had to enlarge some of the holes previously cut for wiring in order to fit the larger plugs through, After some tweaking of the hole size:

By this point we were afloat so I thought I'd give it a go... be rude not to! Proof I can make things work occasionally:

At last I thought!
Time for a proper Sail, the next morning I was promptly down at 7:30 AM, we motored out onto the river and had a cracking sail, bright sunshine (rare in Janurary in England, or at all) and a lovely F3-4. She handled beautifully, perfectly balanced upwind with the helm bang in the middle, she had a beautiful motion over the wind over tide chop. VERY happy :)

I should have known something had to happen.... Afterall the mast was still standing, I tend to be quite disaster prone, and sure enough, sails down started motoring back into the creek... Revs die and then pick back up... Probably just an air buble in the fuel lines I tell my friend, a sailing novice who looked rather unsettled.
At this point the engine died away, a quick glance into the engine compartment reveals the glass diesel bowl only half full, I notice some air bubbles around its edge, I can't have fitted it back properly!!

With 3knots of ebb nows not the time to be fiddling below, I quickly hoist the main and furl out the genoa... Looks like we're sailing back in. Now I love doing this to show off, but usually not on my first outing with a particular boat.
We have to beat up the channel thats around 2.5 boat lengths wide, this is where I despise the masthead rig, with the wind dropped to almost nothing we can barely make headway against the ebb from the creek (fortunately we we're now out of the river proper or we'd have been going backwards!), everytime I tacked I lost speed and the combination of a tiny main and big genoa mean't the head got pushed off the wind, I also realised that rudders with skegs have their limitations! All my previous boats have spun in their own wake, not his one, ah well the price you pay for a better sea boat I guess :(
We made it back in eventually so alls well, just goes to show the importance of a shakedown run when the weather is benign :)

Thats all I've got for the moment, I'll leave you with this:

Rich P · Post by **Rich P** » Tue Jan 25, 2011 6:09 pm

mitiempo wrote:The storm jib hanks will chafe the Dyneema - best to use stainless.

Dyneema is lighter and stronger for the same diameter though... I think for the amount of time I'll be using a storm jib it should be ok, especially as I shall be going a couple of mm up on the size of the stay.
It also needs to be easily removable as It will only be used when its blowing a bit.

mitiempo · Post by **mitiempo** » Tue Jan 25, 2011 6:23 pm

You could use a different lay of stainless for flexibility, say 7 x 19. Or for much better chafe resistance than Dyneema use Dynex Dux which is a lot tougher. With either you should use softies instead of bronze hanks though.

Rachel · Post by **Rachel** » Tue Jan 25, 2011 6:48 pm

On the tabbing: If you used "regular" cloth, that could be why it looks thin to you. By regular I mean just a 90º woven cloth, like those potholders you might have made in grade school.

I usually use something like biaxmat 1708, which I think is similar to what Tim uses (although I'm not speaking for him here). That's a "reinforcement" that is made up of 17 oz. biaxial cloth (fibers are woven on two diagonals, for a sort of diamond weave), and 8 oz. mat. The biaxial is nice for something with a long "joint" such as tabbing because all of the fibers come into play, whereas with a 90º cloth half of them are parallel to your joint and so are not really being used to advantage. With the mat backing it builds up more substantially/quicker.

If you used something like, say, 10 oz. 90º "plain" cloth, it will seem really thin for a looong time (many layers), and you will have those 50% of the strands not really doing a lot.

One other thing I can't tell for sure (I might be seeing it wrong), is... do you have a good fillet in the corner? So that the cloth eases around a gentle radius and not a sharp inside corner? Also, it looks as though maybe the cloth is not totally adhered at the edges (looks white); that can give it a good start on peeling up, so I try to avoid that. Again, I may just not be seeing it properly in the photo.

Great update and photos! Really gorgeous spot you have there.

Rachel

PS: On the bilge paint. I do like a lighter color, although I have not used white on my own projects. What I have done is mix some grey into a larger amount of white (same paint brand/model) for a very light grey.

Rich P · Post by **Rich P** » Tue Jan 25, 2011 6:58 pm

Thanks for the helpful replies :)

The white you see at the edge of the tabbing is where they have some sort of thicker weave to stop the glass tape unravelling at the edges. Its by no means the best bit of tabbing that I've done, but access was an absolute pig and It was more just to give it that little bit extra, than a requirement :)

I do use nomal tape, I shall have to look for a supplier of that Biaxmatt in the UK, it sounds far more substantial!

Mitiempo, the plan is to use softies, I'll look into dyneema dux, thanks!

Rachel · Post by **Rachel** » Tue Jan 25, 2011 7:57 pm

Rich P wrote: I do use nomal tape, I shall have to look for a supplier of that Biaxmatt in the UK, it sounds far more substantial!

Rich,
Here is an example of the biaxial mat product. I don't know anything about this particular supplier (just came up in a search), but they do have a photo you can click on that shows you how it looks on both sides. (Also they are in the USA.)

http://www.fiberglasssite.com/servlet/t ... 8-5/Detail

It also comes in a tape-like shape in various widths, although the stuff I have used does not have that finished edge like your other tape has (on the other hand... no ridge either). I have used biaxial tape without the mat that is a bit more tidied up on the edge. I prefer the mat backing in most cases.

You will notice that it takes more resin and a bit more effort to wet out than the "regular" cloth, but then you get more out of it too, for tabbing.

Rachel

Quetzalsailor · Post by **Quetzalsailor** » Tue Jan 25, 2011 9:38 pm

Tapes have sort of a 'selvage' edge where the field weave is terminated at the two edges. It's where the weft is doubled back across the warp; hmmm, did I get that right? (I did; Googled to avoid a comment of greater accuracy) Indeed it's sometimes a bit thicker and a pain to have to go over, and they stack up in layers poorly. You trade the ease of working with a width of tape with the pain of having to cut your own strips.

Post by **Tim** » Wed Jan 26, 2011 7:48 am

There's something amusing about seeing a boat with all sails set...in a sea of mud.

Rich P wrote:

Rachel · Post by **Rachel** » Wed Jan 26, 2011 5:07 pm

Well then you might like this photo of a friend of mine. Someone had asked her where she sails since she lives in the Midwest :^)

By the way, Quetzal, I'm not sure if these would qualify as official "tapes," but I have often worked with biaxmat "tape" on a roll that does not have a selvage edge -- it's just "raw" right up to the edge. These tapes have been anywhere from about 6" to 14" or so, in my recollection.

(I've also used tape with the selvage edge, but it was just "plain" cloth or biaxial without the mat.)

Rich P · Post by **Rich P** » Fri Jan 28, 2011 2:33 pm

Well I had chance to have a look at the fuel system today, and I found a lovely diesel lake!
Sighhh!
Gonna go over everything with a fine tooth-comb tomorrow and find out whats wrong :|

Thank god its not a petrol engine hahah!

Rich P · Post by **Rich P** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 7:11 pm

Well, as it turned out it wasn't a lake of diesel, it was a lake of water with some residual diesel in it! More on that in a bit.

I traced the fuel problems back to the filter, there was a crack in the glass bowl, this was letting air into the filter, and starving the engine of fuel... I was going to remove it, but a hard frost did the work for me and the bowl shattered!! Glass all over the bilges :P
With the filter assembly duly replaced I made sure the top of the tank was sealing properly and hooked up the fuel lines (again) and had another go with the engine.... Perfect, it ran for an hour on the berth with no issues :)

After much messing about, due to clearance issues over the new tank I've had to move the fuel filler cap, I shall be filling the old one in due course:

And of course being me, it wasn't going to be as straight forward as that! The first sail highlighted a new problem I hadn't spotted which explains the lake of water. The exhaust hose, or the skin fitting, not sure which yet is leaking as the engine runs... AGHHHHHH IT NEVER ENDS!!

Video of it here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Wdz5YgP6pM

On the bright side I've ticked some more jobs off my list (top of the page) and i've settled on a name, 'Wanderlust' struck a chord with me, so that's what she's called now :)

Rich P · Post by **Rich P** » Sun Feb 06, 2011 8:10 pm

Slow but steady progress, not an awful lot to report.

I've started painting out the lockers on board, some of them smelled a bit and looked mucky even after repeated scrubbing, it's been a slow process because I can only do so many at a time, needing the others to stash stuff in!

I've sussed out my exhaust leak, it turns out I'd exposed another bodge!
On the end of the hose was the type of connector that you would use on a fire hose, it screwed down onto the thread of the through hull, I can't really fix this till I get the boat in the yard so I shall have to leave it for the time being! I've covered it with duct tape which should temporarily stop it leaking.. (It's only seeping now I've had a play around)

I'll now move on and explain the next round of bodges I've found!!!

First up the access to the area under the anchor locker should be through a hinged door in the forwardmost bulkhead, for some reason this has been screwed in and a bloody piece of plywood backing put behind it... no idea why! Another bloody thing to do!

One of the leaks I've found. the deck glands for the mast head wires, also some nice chocolate blocks!

When upgrading winches, don't bother filling the holes, just dab some silicon in, also no need for backing pads, it's only winch and cleats...

I've decided it's going to make the project go quicker if I don't sail the boat for the next few weeks, what I intend to do is take all the gear out the cabin, every last thing! Remove all the cupboard doors, bunk boards etc for varnishing off the boat, and while I've got a nice empty interior I can blast away at the jobs I need to do.

I'm going to convert the bottom of the hanging locker into shelves with cupboard doors, when I'm living aboard it means I'll have somewhere to stash my clothes rather than a bag.
I think installing a cupboard instead of just a divider behind the galley will be an excellent thing to do also. While I'm at it, the galley top needs new formica, there also seems to be lots of wasted stowage round the back of the galley, I'll have to have a look at what I can do.
The floor needs repainting, while I'm at it I can neaten up the companionway steps :).

I'll run all the wires and install the electrics, much easier with everything out, then I can do my best to cover the backs of instruments and disguise the runs.
Finally I'd like to insulate the hull, I've been reading a lot on this, and I've decided on the material: Plastazote, its been used by other to great success and apparently makes a WORLD of difference below decks, requiring very little energy to keep the boat warm.
I'm not entirely sure the best way to go about it though, do I just insulate the exposed bits off hull in the cabin, or do I insulate the bits of hull inside lockers right down to where the bilge starts. Or do I insulate the locker doors and sides and tops, so it's only the main space in the cabin thats covered.... agh decisions!

One Way David · Post by **One Way David** » Mon Feb 07, 2011 1:22 am

Rachel wrote:Well then you might like this photo of a friend of mine. Someone had asked her where she sails since she lives in the Midwest :^)

By the way, Quetzal, I'm not sure if these would qualify as official "tapes," but I have often worked with biaxmat "tape" on a roll that does not have a selvage edge -- it's just "raw" right up to the edge. These tapes have been anywhere from about 6" to 14" or so, in my recollection.

(I've also used tape with the selvage edge, but it was just "plain" cloth or biaxial without the mat.)

All of us midwesterners know both corn and soybean are high in oil content. Makes for slick sailing.

Anon.

Rich P · Post by **Rich P** » Tue Feb 08, 2011 4:31 pm

Just as an aside, I had decided to name the boat Wanderlust, and then I noticed there was a Wanderlust on NYR pages! I must have read it and unconsciously chose the name :P

Rich P · Post by **Rich P** » Tue Feb 22, 2011 6:45 am

I've had barely any time to work on the boat because I've been moving house, but that's all done and its a miserable rainy day outside so I'll do a quick update on where I'm at.

The next stage is sorting out the deck leaks, and re painting and varnishing the interior. Also I'm recovering the worktops in the galley an rewiring the electrics.

I started by getting out the fiddle at the back of the galley, I plan to put cupboards in there eventually.

The centre piece is actually removable to get at a small space underneath, I'm going to put a bottom in this and gain a small amount of storage, as you can see I'll need another fill piece, I can't think of why the made the original out of that crap!

Next I got rid of all the vinyl covering that was on the Galley, I also removed all the bits and pieces so it was ready to be re-surfaced. I eventually had to chop the tap into two pieces it was that siezed!! Fortunately I have a foot pump to go in its place :)

I'd already painted out all of the under bunk lockers, the next job was all the smaller lockers, these ones in white.

Finally I've made a start on revarnishing the bunk boards that go under the cushions, these don't need to look perfect as you'll only see them when you lift the bunk.
I'm after some way to keep up some ventilation beneath the cushions / in the lockers... any idea's?

Rich P · Post by **Rich P** » Sun May 22, 2011 2:05 pm

Well it's been a while since I've posted to this, to be honest I just got fed up of taking photo's of everything I was doing :P

Got an awful lot more done since the last update, the boats starting to get nearly there, I'll give an update in pictures:
- Painted Floor
- Replaced Backstay Eye
- Galley completely cleaned up and much improved
- Most electrics done, got a few more circuits to do
- I changed the gear box on the engine from a 3.2 ratio to a 2.2 ratio, know can motor at Hull speed :D
- Got a tender, need to come up with some idea for a fender on it, also it's ridiculously unstable!!
- More fiddling with the fuel system, finally stopped it leaking!
- All instruments now hooked up and working
- Managed to shear autopilot bracket on its first outing haha, need to think of a stronger way to secure the tiller pilot
- Water inlet changed for ball rather than gate type
- Engine impeller changed
- Various bits of varnishing and painting
Tons of stuff I can't remember

Rich P · Post by **Rich P** » Tue Feb 03, 2015 8:27 pm

Well at last an update for you all!
4 Years, on, and there no longer seems to be much activity on this forum, is there another website about boatbuilding you've all migrated to, or has everyone been busy?

Basically I ended up running out of money mid refit and having to get another job. I worked for a year on tugs and to be honest I spent that much time on a boat and this one was neglected. Pretty much between late 2011 and spring 2014, all that happened was I got the hull resprayed and a few odd jobs. Sailed perhaps 2-3 times. As I worked 4 weeks on 2 off I just never fancied it.

However recently I've been cracking on with jobs again, I now work a much more manageable 2 weeks on 2 weeks off shift pattern, (They even promoted me to master, which must be scary for other water users!) so here goes!

I don't have any pics of the respray as it happened, but heres some of how she looks now.

I also put carpet tiles down inside, not as pretty as wood, but a 100 times better than the terrible GRP deck paint surface I had before.

I was never particularly happy with the previous 12v installation I made back in 2011, so last summer I started a new one, but work and life got in the way and it was never completed.
A few weeks ago I got myself a 2nd hand table saw, and what a revelation! I'm convinced that if I'd had one of these when refitting my last boat I'd have actually finished it, apart from big sheets of plywood, everything is so much easier with it, I made myself a neat cross cut sled and can't get over how awesome it is.

Using my new table saw I set about making a battery box, it took a while as the last one I attempted I fudged the measurements and wasted a load of plywood, I was determined not to do the same to this one.

The box is strapped down with a webbing strap going onto two strong attachments, one through the mini bulkhead of saloon seat, and the other through a glassed in platform the battery sits on. Batteries are chocked with plywood wedges.
The 1-2-Both switch is mounted on the box and the outputs sent to a positive and negative terminal posts. From there they feed the engine and up some conduit to the switch panel.

The wiring runs are less than a metre so I should have next to no losses. Also the inside of the box has been saturated with West System Epoxy, which is apparently impervious to battery acid. Hopefully I won't be testing that out!

Rich P · Post by **Rich P** » Tue Feb 03, 2015 8:40 pm

The problem with the old switch panel was the long wiring runs, the batteries were in a location that wasn't really suitable, but moving the batteries meant that all the power feed wires had to cross the engine from port to starboard, I decided I wanted to keep them as much to one side as possible as I like to keep potential magnetic fields away from the compass which is mounted (or will be ) on the starboard side.

Since I have some 'spare' space on he portside where the bunk recesses slightly under the cockpit I made up a panel enclosure to fit the switch panel into, its pretty much impossible to lean onto and theres plenty of room behind for terminating the cables. The power feed comes up through the aft end from the batteries in the locker below. Unfortunately I don't have any teak face plywood so for the moment I think I'll stain the panel and varnish over that. And in future when I can justify the expense I'll get the teak ply.

Today I also started on the mast, and I definitely picked a good day for it.

I've always had friction on some of the sheaves, and in fact some of them plain didn't work and the previous owner just hadn't used them (external topping lift etc), so I was on a mission to get them out. And strip the mast as much as possible ready for painting when we're closer to spring.
The state of the original sheaves it pretty evident from the photos, I definitely think plastic replacements are the way to go.

Sadly not even the mighty impact drive could bother the bolts attaching the spreaders to the mast. I'm slightly at a loss with what to with them. Maybe boiling water and penetrating oil would do the job.

Cruiser2B · Post by **Cruiser2B** » Wed Feb 04, 2015 7:33 pm

Great work, i am beginning a refit. Hopefully 2-3yrs will be all it takes. Keep us posted on your progress!

TampaBay · Post by **TampaBay** » Thu Feb 05, 2015 10:02 am

Excellent work on this boat. I thought you sold it?

pjesus · Post by **pjesus** » Fri Feb 06, 2015 6:31 am

Those sheaves look like they've done their share of business and deserve some rest now :)
Also, they seem to be V-grooved instead of U-grooved. If so, they were meant for wire halyards and will chafe syntethic ropes. Get U-grooved sheaves.
I have also replaced all halyard sheaves on my boat and I had to have one of them custom built as I didn't find a suitable one on the market. Vela Sailing Supply did it and the result was excellent.

Good work with the refit!

pjesus · Post by **pjesus** » Fri Feb 06, 2015 6:38 am

One more thing, if I may...
While you're refitting the mast, you could use a galvanic isolator such as Duralac to isolate all stainless steel fitting from the aluminium mast. Easy to use and it's one less thing corroding on the boat :)

Rich P · Post by **Rich P** » Sun Feb 08, 2015 5:59 am

I sold the first boat, the quarter tonner 'Chicane'.
This is the one I bought which needed far less work doing, Chicane was a full rip out and rebuild.

pjesus, yes I fully intend to use Duralac on all mast components, I've a stock left over from my aircraft fitting days so that should do me. I'm planning to add a solent stay for the storm jib, and a bracket for a steaming light. Monel rivets, plenty of duralac.
Also going to fit a new VHF antenna.

The sheaves are being replaced with plastic ones for rope, and I'll be adding some exits further up from the base of the mast to help 'sweat' the spinnaker and genny halyards.

Heres a pic of how the electrics are coming together:

Won't be any progress for around a month now, I'm just leaving to go and sit my GMDSS GOC, following that I'm back on shift on the boat for another 2 weeks.

Rich P · Post by **Rich P** » Sun Mar 29, 2015 7:23 pm

Well she's now out of the water, the advantage of a mud berth is that after 2 years afloat, no fouling!

Theres been a lot of behind scenes stuff going on with the wiring that I haven't bothered taking photos of, wiring runs, brackets etc.
But the shore power is now installed, garage consumer unit with RCD and 2 MCBs. 1x 10A for the double socket and 1x 6A for the battery charger.

Power comes in through the coming cuddy and though a gland, all 240v wiring has been ran in conduit in its own so there is no chance of it coming into contact with any other wiring, sharp objects etc. (I've since covered the exposed wire you see in some photos)

Battery charger also wired and installed, the wiring has since been tidied.

Navigation lights added, the plywood brackets are a proof of concept as there are no existing solutions that will work with my pulpit. I'll get some made in stainless for next year, for now I'm glad to have them working!

I've also added the 2nd switch panel for the nav lights and wired everything in, but not photos as yet.

Rich P · Post by **Rich P** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 3:42 pm

Well after a long time (most of it unfortunately spent at work and not on the boat), the deck is nearing completion.

I removed all the old fittings, sanded back, filled and faired, filled and faired some more. I went with a single pack paint as I didn't want to have to remove all of the old paint. The results at the time were fantastic, but I feel the gloss got effected by the cold and damp on a night.
As it is, the paint isn't perfect, but you can't tell unless you're close and for a job done in an often windy yard i'm pretty happy.

Nearly all the deck fittings are now back on with Butyl for the main part. Just the hand rails to do, one of which I've had to replace.

Removing stuff: (The forehatch put up a fight!)

Chainplates cleaned up nicely

Old and replacement handrails:

Applying the gloss white:

Ok so onto the non-skid, I used Kiwi grip which is fiddly to apply, it looked good...

Unfortunately I applied it late that afternoon, and unforecast rain led to this

I could have cried, paint down my lovely white topsides, through the windows, down the chainplate slots, through the genoa track bolts. I just rinsed and brushed it off as well as I could.

Fast forward a few months and an unseasonably warm autumn let me finish the non skid, fit new windows and pretty much refit all the deck fittings.

My method of testing the halyard leads without the mast.
It was a nightmare getting the line organizers symmetrical, I spent ages with a tape measure checking from various datum points until I realised that the coach roof itself wasn't symmetrical! The hatch is offset (not deliberately I'm sure) to starboard, meaning there's less room for lines down that side. In the end I got the fore and aft dimensions right and eyeballed the others.

Oh and some boring photos of my new masthead sheaves for you photo whores!

Just have to put the hand rails and some wear guards on and that's the deck done. (OH and paint touch up)
Then its re-rig the mast, run new wires etc for masthead lights and instruments.

Finally fit new engine mounts (have to lift up the bearers to make these ones fit), re-secure and plump in the fuel tank, new stern seal (might need a new shaft depending on the wear), yeah still plenty to do!

Cruiser2B · Post by **Cruiser2B** » Sat Dec 05, 2015 7:51 pm

wow, progress looks great!

Rich P · Post by **Rich P** » Wed Mar 02, 2016 7:44 am

Project completed!

Well as much as it ever will be haha.
Time to start enjoying it, I'll close up this 5 year old thread with an in action shot:

Lloyd · Post by **Lloyd** » Sat Mar 05, 2016 2:16 pm

Well it looks like all the work paid off. Very nice shot. Lovely lines. Hoping you will be enjoying it for many years.

Cruiser2B · Post by **Cruiser2B** » Sun Mar 06, 2016 6:17 pm

Congrats.....I know that first sail after all that hard work had to feel great! Good Luck with her!