Pearson Triton-Bluewater on a budget

Crazer · Post by **Crazer** » Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:07 pm

Well, I think the time has come to start a thread for the refit/restoration of hull #268. We are planning on a comprehensive, but fairly austere refit of the boat that will make her capable of sailing in an offshore environment. There's a long list of things to do and progress will be slow, especially since the boat is still 6 1/2 hours away! We have been planning to move her to Annapolis, MD for a couple months but things keep getting in the way. So for now, this thread will serve to get the conversation going and as a place for me to ask questions as I plan the refit. We're operating on a very small budget, so most of the time spent will simply be making the money we need to buy what we want for the boat. I have no idea how long this could take. I'd like to have her ready to sail by summer, but that's highly dependent on our financial situation. I have no idea how much this all will cost. Obviously, a lot, but I guess not as much as it could. I won't be doing anything I don't think needs to be done, the interior will be left as it is: pretty much stock Triton, i.e. bare bones. The interior won't be messed with except to rebuild the compression system and overhaul the electrical. And install a new head/holding tank/water tank.
I don't have a lot of experience sailing larger boats, so I will at this time be making no modifications to the rig and boat beyond simple repairs and structural upgrades. I will wait to equip her with electronics, make modifications to the rig, etc. as I gain experience and get a feel for what I want. The list of things to do is still long:

-Fair and paint deck (it was recored and left unfinished by the previous owner)
-Overhaul standing rigging, repair or replace (going to have a professional go over it and tell me what should be done)
-Replace chainplates and possibly make the move to external chainplates
-Possibly add a third set of shrouds
-Replace running rigging
-Replace compression beam/posts
-Overhaul electrical system
-Replace head and install a proper holding tank
-Replace water tank (old fiberglass tank=foul tasting water)
-Rebuild winches, rebed deck hardware, paint topsides, etc
-Make entire boat watertight

There is a heavy emphasis on the rig, mostly because I've read enough about boats losing their masts to be nervous about it. Obviously I won't be pushing the boat anytime soon, but any offshore sailor who sails long enough will end up in a storm and I want to be ready for it when it does happen. Otherwise, it's all pretty much standard old boat stuff. The only novel thing I want to do (relatively speaking that is) is to watertight all the hatches/exterior points of entry. So if/when I take green water none or very little of it gets below.
The two immediate things I need to think about are the chainplates and the shrouds. I've seen a lot of boats with a third pair of shrouds added. I've seen, too, a number of Tritons with external chainplates. How necessary are both, and in the case of the latter what are the benefits? Are they simply stronger? I'd like to hear thoughts from everyone, especially those with real experience sailing Tritons.

TritonSean · Post by **TritonSean** » Wed Dec 07, 2011 7:51 am

Hi There

don't know if this is any help but I pasted over my workplan for Jenny Marie.

she came to me with a beefed up rig already.
I definetly would go for external chainplates, otherwise, I think the rigs on these boats are pretty good.

One step at a time so that you don't get overwhelmed.
I have spent twice what I paid for the boat already and most of it was consumables like paint, sandpaper and epoxy.

Sean

“Jenny-Marie” – work plan, 2011/2012/2013

Green = completed
Red = pre-launch priorities

Purchased Feb, 2011
1. remove all gear from interior of boat
2. scrape bottom
3. go over engine for mechanical problems
4. reinforce cradle
5. remove ground tackle from bow rollers
6. clean out cockpit lockers

- patch false keel
- reconnect engine exhaust
- new bilge pump hose (hand pump)

Summer 2011
- finish keel patch
- drain fuel tank and fuel system – replace fuel filters
- repaint interior
- remove and seal opening vent, Stbd forward of cabin trunk
- Move and reseal opening ports
- Rebed leaky fittings
- Ensure electric and manual bilge pumps are operating

Fall 2011
- clean and reinstall fwd water bladder
- remove spray hood and wash
- remove and rebuild engine alternator
- hatches and bulkheads in head, replace, paint, fix.
- Shrink Wrap Cover ? (500.00 $)
- Remove paint, battery and put antifreeze in engine and toilet
- paint cockpit sole

Winter 2011/2012
- interior work – plywood liner replacement
- engine stop cable – move, replace
- engine control cables
- make cutting board to fit over sink
- yard fees paid to June 2012
Cockpit Projects
- Stbd small cockpit hatch – replace with 10” round hatch and fix teak grate over it.
- reinstall new coamings.
- teak grates in cockpit – redo (get rid of grates on cockpit seats)

Other
- overhaul outboard motor or buy 6hp backup
- cedar strip ceiling in forepeak
- remove and rebed “seahood”
- shore up cradle support
- refurbish remaining two opening ports and install in forepeak
- reseal and replace large cabin trunk ports with Lexan – 10mm
- repair or replace inflatable dinghy
- engine control panel, evaluate, rewire
- fresh water tank, stbd galley – remove, clean , rethink
- remove and redesign galley
- mainsail – purchased used J27 sail.
- Source a summer mooring
- Work on second main
- Remove and clean/replace marine toilet

Spring 2012
- engine restart
- cables and control panel
- tighten cutlass bearing
- bottom and topside paint
- re-rig running rigging
- replace port side cockpit drain hose – check for leaks !
- check all hose connections, head, galley, engine
- repair access hole in port aft deck
- strengthen and/or inspect exhaust hook up
- reinstall solar panels
- reseal mast wiring thru deck and mast step
- re-launch – late May

Fall 2012
- Rebuild cradle/trailer
- Source work site/building
- Pull engine
- Pull rig

Winter 2012/2013
- forward hatch and cabin trunk recore
- Go Electric ????
- sink in head ?
- cabin trunk port lights replace
- install bronze cowl vent on foredeck
- lead halyards aft with winches etc.

triton318 · Post by **triton318** » Wed Dec 07, 2011 11:25 am

1. It always costs more than you thought it would.
2. It always takes longer than you thought it would.

I switched to external chainplates on my Triton to avoid ever having them leak (although it's certainly possible to have non-leaking internal chainplates). I also wanted a little more room on the side deck for movement.

I also added forward lower shrouds. Many people have added them to their Tritons over the years. If I had to replace all of my standing rigging again, I think I'd learn to splice wire rope -- you can save a lot of money by not having to have swagged terminals or buying mechanical terminals such as Sta-Lok fittings.

Good luck with your project.

Carl-A259 · Post by **Carl-A259** » Wed Dec 07, 2011 1:46 pm

Welcome, Have you had any time to visit James Baldwin's ATOM website, There is much real and very useful info there, to me it appears very factual and concise . It will always take longer than anticipated and costly as well, I think if you don't burden yourself with a lot of debt trying to do this and stay focused it certainly is doable. I work so slowly it's pitiful, but I do move forward and since the boat is in my yard, storage doesn't become a money pit. Good Luck.

Crazer · Post by **Crazer** » Wed Dec 07, 2011 4:35 pm

Sean-many thanks for sharing that. That's a nice, very comprehensive list. It gives me a number of things to contemplate that I hadn't thought of before. More on that later.

triton318-Yes, the issue of leakage was one of the things I was thinking about. It could save some maintenance. I was wondering if there were structural reasons for making the chainplates external?

Carl-I have had a good look at James Baldwin's site. It was actually one of the first things to push me towards the Triton and was a major factor in my decision to choose this boat. I'm modeling my refit on both Baldwin's Atom and, more directly, David Wilson's Answer. The thing I like about Answer is that David is always emphasizing how simple he keeps her. She hasn't undergone the kind of major reconstruction you see so often. As I understand it, she is largely original, which appeals to me since I like the simplicity of the original Triton design. I don't intend to make any major changes to 268, she will be improved over the original but will be kept close to original appearance inside and out.

I've heard that B.O.A.T. stands for "Break Out Another Thousand"...we shall see how far off I am with my mental estimates. I really do have no idea how much it'll all cost, so actually I don't really have any kind of dollar figure in mind. Probably a good thing.

Hirilondë · Post by **Hirilondë** » Wed Dec 07, 2011 10:25 pm

triton318 wrote: I switched to external chainplates on my Triton to avoid ever having them leak (although it's certainly possible to have non-leaking internal chainplates). I also wanted a little more room on the side deck for movement.

It is also possible to have leaky external chainplates. It does give you the more room though.

bigd14 · Post by **bigd14** » Wed Dec 07, 2011 11:33 pm

The key to success in my opinion is to keep the end goal in mind and make a little progress each week. Be prepared to have major setbacks at times. Be prepared to make costly mistakes. Be prepared to learn more than you ever thought you could. Live for the important milestones. And never ever track how much you spend. Most of all enjoy the learning and doing process. And remember that all systems are connected so one action may require a dozen other actions prior to being implemented! Good luck and post lots of photos. This group will help you get through it as they helped me and so many others.

Doug

triton318 · Post by **triton318** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 12:53 pm

Hirilondë wrote:It is also possible to have leaky external chainplates. It does give you the more room though.

Most definitely. I guess I was thinking that leaking external chainplates won't affect a deck cored with balsa or plywood, whereas leaking internal chainplates have the potential to do so. But...not if you've prepared the area surrounding the chainplates by removing some core material and replacing with thickening epoxy.

Hirilondë · Post by **Hirilondë** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 1:55 pm

Yeah Jay, that is definitely a long term plus. Re-coring rates up there with sanding and grinding on the fun factor scale.

Carl-A259 · Post by **Carl-A259** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 4:20 pm

I like your plan very much. I also picked up a Triton (705) which has been parked on the hard since 1987. Luckily for me it had a nice large garboard drain that was left open so no water collected higher than the bilge. Which was really pretty critical because it had 2 1" holes drilled in the lazerette which allowed the rainwater to runoff into the bilge. The interior remains very nice, even the interior paint is good and the deck is firm with no signs of leaks. This is the 5th Pearson I've fooled with and the first one I've come across without serious deck problems, every time I say or type this it seems unbelievable. My point is I see no reason to redesign the interior of the boat till it's been sailed by me to know changes I want or need. Other than a new legal toilet system and some updates to help keep it afloat, like more and larger bilge pumps, new rigging , thru hulls etc. I have to replace the engine and then sand the entire boat for new paint and there is going to be a lot of sanding and filling. Having said that, the one "custom feature" is the chill box is coming out. Anyway Good Luck

Crazer · Post by **Crazer** » Thu Dec 15, 2011 9:50 pm

Carl, sounds like we're pretty much doing the same thing. My toilet system is technically legal, but the holding tank is just tucked behind the head at the moment and not secured in any way-not really a permanent kind of situation! I haven't decided on where to put my new permanent holding tank. What are you planning? I might be taking the icebox out too, although that's a little bit further down the line. I may glass over the cockpit access in the near future though. And #705-that has to be one of the last ones built. Does she have the opening ports on the forward end of the doghouse, or does she have the raised cabin that was built into some of the later boats?

Having considered the options, I've decided to go with internal chainplates, mostly in the name of keeping the "austere" in "austere refit." I was convinced by the fact that Atom has internal chainplates. I do think I'll be adding a third set of shrouds though, since that seems like a pretty straightforward procedure and will go a long way towards making me feel good about the integrity of the rig.

Carl-A259 · Post by **Carl-A259** » Fri Dec 16, 2011 11:41 am

Crazer, No forward facing ports and no raised coach there is a picture here on the Triton specific thread under: Triton numbers . The head has been removed so I'm going back with a Lavac and hope to put an 8gal tank behind the bowl. I would like to mount the tank above the water line but don't think that would be possible without a lot of modifications. The reason would be to eliminate a bunch of hose and Y valve. I too will be adding the extra shrouds at some point so I will be glassing in the knees and extending the shelves in that area. The A4 is DOA but I have a replacement A4 and a Yanmar 2QM diesel, both are obsolete engines but it would be simpler to just go back with the A4. 705 is very close to the end run I think 708 was the last, I believe that was a very custom Triton though. Cheers

Crazer · Post by **Crazer** » Tue Dec 20, 2011 11:49 pm

Aha! I thought about that boat, but I think you picked her up before I got a chance to go look at her. She looked good to me, although I dearly love the forward opening ports on our boat. I wasn't aware she didn't have them. Yes, what I've heard is that 707 Tritons were built and then a final one was constructed (for an executive?) as a special order and was highly customized.

I had heard about deck mounted chainplates on Tritons with the forward lowers. I didn't really have a clear idea of what was being described. It sounded to me like they were bolted through the deck, but that sounded too easy. Unless I find more on the subject I'll just do what you're doing. Are you posting pics of your progress anywhere? I'd love to see what's up.

I am going up to the boat on January 10th to pull the standing rigging, compression beam, compression posts, and whatever else I can get that needs repairs/replacing. The mast is currently resting on the deck (it's down) should I do anything about supporting the cabin roof while the compression beam is out? I'll be sure to grab lots of photos while I'm up there.

-Avery

Carl-A259 · Post by **Carl-A259** » Wed Dec 21, 2011 1:26 am

There were supposed to be some kind of factory updated kit for forward lower shrouds made from aluminum that bolted in and most corroded away over time.( According to internet lore) Is your compression beam damaged now or are you simply trying to upgrade. The pearson Ariel site has a nice mod you can do to improve the rigidity of the beam without major rebuilding that seems to work for the Ariel, I don't know yet about the Triton but I am going to check soon to see if there is balsa core under the mast step on deck. If there is, I plan to recore this area with matting when I recore the cockpit sole which is totally gone. I may post some pictures if I should get into some unique type of problem area. It just seems at this point with these boats there are very few areas that haven't been documented with text and pictures that it just becomes redundant to post more. Although the glamor shots are always enjoyable!! I'm concentrating right now on an Electra, I gave to my daughter for graduating, for a spring launch. It had gotten beat up on the rocks when it slipped it's mooring in a storm. I had several large holes in the hull and the entire rudder area had ground down to a nub. I just got everything below the waterline done last week, so I'll next be moving to the deck area and rebedding the through decks by backfilling with epoxy and boring holes and rebedding so it should be going a lot quicker than the hull work. I'm eager to get to the Triton.

mitiempo · Post by **mitiempo** » Wed Dec 21, 2011 2:19 am

If you use mat under the mast or elsewhere make sure it is epoxy compatible - most mat isn't. Better yet use biaxial, a stitched roving with epoxy compatible mat on one side. Mat has little strength by itself and its main use is between layers of roving to fill in the voids roving/roving has that would otherwise be all resin.

Crazer · Post by **Crazer** » Tue Jan 03, 2012 5:00 pm

Compression beam will either be repaired or replaced...not entirely settled on which, of course it partially depends on need, but if I find it to be intact and otherwise OK I'm undecided whether I will upgrade it or just replace. It partially depends on what kind of work space I have available to me. Can't wait to see some pics of the Electra work, I'll get back to work on the Electra website once I return from my holiday travel.

I'll post the first real update in a week once I've got up to the boat. Stay tuned!

Tallystick · Post by **Tallystick** » Wed Jan 04, 2012 11:22 am

My project is similar to yours. Also bluewater on a budget. The compression beam on my boat was significant rotted along the top interior surfaces directly under the mast step. This wasn't so obvious until the tabbing and beam were removed.

I've constructed a new beam from quartersawn 8/4 white oak using the old as a template. The lumber was $7 per board foot, and the board I got for around $70 was sufficient to make both support beams, and new motor mounts. Not so expensive for such an important structural component.

Crazer · Post by **Crazer** » Thu Jan 05, 2012 6:14 pm

I agree, that's the way that I see it. The things I'm doing are the best value for the money, and I believe that my efforts will yield a strong and capable boat. I'm finding that so far, costs are running well below my estimates which is a great feeling.

Crazer · Post by **Crazer** » Wed Jan 11, 2012 5:25 pm

Well I'm up here in Mattapoisett working on the boat. So far my friend and I have removed all the standing rigging, the compression beam and two chainplates. We're also stripping out the head in preparation for restoration. The owner before the owner we bought her from seemed to think paint was the solution to everything, so we've had several fights with frozen bolts and stuck screws. We had to physically destroy the bolts holding the compression beam in in order to remove it. We are currently trying to strip the paint off the bolts holding in the starboard chainplates and have met with mixed success. At the moment we're running around Mattapoisett looking for a store that sells a dremel or similar rotary cutting tool so that we can cut the bolts. So far we've tried three places with no success. The chainplates are the last thing on the projects list. We'll be stopping by at least one of the rigging shops in the area to get a quote on replacement. I still have not decided whether we will go with installing the sta-lock fittings ourselves or have a shop do the replacement. It depends on which ends up being more cost-effective.

Photos coming soon...

Jeremy · Post by **Jeremy** » Wed Jan 11, 2012 6:04 pm

Mahoney's is the only likely prospect for a rotary tool in Mattapoisett - up North Street toward 195, Mahoney's is on a road (called "Industrial Ave" I think) off to the right before the first entrance ramp, Otherwise, you're going to have to go to Fairhaven / New Bedford / North Dartmouth.

Off Route 6 in Fairhaven there is a Sears tool store, a Wallmart, and a K Mart. Not sure if there's a Lowe's or Home Depot, though.

For rigging, I highly recommend "Rigging Only" in Fairhaven (http://www.riggingonly.com/). Not sure if they do chainplates, but for those you may do just as well with a machine shop. There's one on the same road as Mahoney's. Good luck.

Tallystick · Post by **Tallystick** » Wed Jan 11, 2012 7:14 pm

I used an angle grinder with a metal cutoff wheel to cut the bolts, and then hammered a grade 8 bolt through to push out the stuck bolts. A dremel may work, but you'll probably break a lot of cut-off discs, and it will be slow.

Crazer · Post by **Crazer** » Fri Jan 13, 2012 6:42 pm

Mahoney's was our go to place most of the time when we were up there. Our boat is at Brownell Systems which is 7 Industrial Drive. Mahoney's is 1 Industrial drive :) We ended up going to the Sears in Fairhaven to get the tool we needed. Turns out we didn't. The nuts came off the next day after having paint stripper on them overnight. It looks like Rigging Only will be doing our rigging, I've got many good recommendations for them.

We used the process of cutting off the ends and tapping the bolts through on the compression beam and it worked like a charm. That's what we would have done on the chainplates too but they came apart before it was necessary. I found something interesting when I pulled the compression beam. It has the number 4 written on it in three places. It's probably just a reference marking used when building the boat, but it made me curious as to how exactly the hull number was written into the compression beam. My boat has no other number on the compression beam. It does have the number 268 written behind the electrical panel, but I don't know if that was added by a later owner. She has 268 on the sails but that means little. Sails were swapped all the time.

We have also "officially" named our boat. She is named Rumor after a Triton we did not buy, and which I have been feeling guilty about ever since. Last I heard the original Rumor was slated to be parted out and scrapped. I thought it would be a nice touch to name our new boat after her, and we liked the name a lot too.

Crazer · Post by **Crazer** » Mon Mar 05, 2012 3:52 pm

Well I have an update and the news isn't good. My partner on this project, who had been with me on it for a year, backed out. I am now just beginning to chart a new path for the boat and my life. Rest assured, Rumor will be restored, but I need to come up with a plan B. I will be going to Kenya for two weeks at the end of the month and travel has a way of clearing the mind and illuminating the way forward. Stay tuned, I continue on.

Crazer · Post by **Crazer** » Sun Sep 23, 2012 4:03 pm

I think it is safe to say at this point that this project will be going forward. I have a new job that seems more secure than my last and I hope to be able to get some updates on the Triton soon...

earlylight · Post by **earlylight** » Sun Sep 23, 2012 4:32 pm

I'm sure there are many of us looking forward to your future updates. Please keep us posted and best of luck with your project.

Crazer · Post by **Crazer** » Mon Sep 24, 2012 7:19 pm

Thanks, earlylight! I hope to get out to have a look at her next week and make sure that she's in good shape and ready for the winter, and more importantly, ready to be hauled to Ithaca early next year.

I've come up with a preliminary work list for the boat, obviously subject to change and expansion as I survey her condition and determine more fully what needs to be done in order to get her sailing again.

Work list:
Exterior:
Completely redo bottom paint, going from current red to new black
Refinish topsides??
New boot stripe, color TBD
Replace cutlass bearing
Fair and tape deck
Refinish deck with white-on-white non-skid scheme
Replace woodwork as necessary, repair when practical
Replace forward hatch
Build seahood and install
Replace lazarrette hatch
Stiffen lazarrette support beam
Eliminate icebox hatch
Rig:
Replace existing standing rigging
Replace chainplates and chainplate knees
Replace mast compression beam
Replace blocks where necessary
Fully replace running rigging
Wiring:
Replace all wiring throughout
Battery boxes
New lighting scheme
Rewire mast and replace mast lights
Rewire engine and related systems
Engine:
Remove and assess work needed
Teardown and rebuild (scope TBD)
Reinstall
Plumbing:
Replace water and hold tanks
Replace all lines and pumps
Replace sink
Replace head (possibly with a composting head)
New bilge pumps
Interior:
Refinish throughout
New formica on bulkheads and counters
New cushions
Replace trim as appropriate
New laminate over cabin sole
Bilgekote all spaces
Remove icebox

earlylight · Post by **earlylight** » Mon Sep 24, 2012 8:40 pm

Sounds like you've got a pretty good handle on your project planning. Lots of work, but as the work progresses there is a lot of satisfaction to be had. Be sure to take lots of pics to document your work (and to feed all the photo hungry folks here on the forum). Best of luck!

Crazer · Post by **Crazer** » Sun Sep 30, 2012 10:42 am

Thanks, I'll be sure to keep everyone updated! Today I'm going out to the boat, and I'm a little bit nervous about what I'll find seeing as I haven't been out there since last January. No matter how many times I repeat "I got her well covered" to myself I still can't banish visions of water above the cabin sole. Other fears include peeling paint, rotting woodwork, leaking batteries, and so on. I'm just not used to this whole "leaving the boat for an extended period of time" thing yet! Part of the point of this trip is to document in great detail her condition so I have a picture in my head of how I'll proceed. I'll definitely be posting some more photos of her when I get back.

Tallystick · Post by **Tallystick** » Sun Sep 30, 2012 2:03 pm

Water above the cabin sole wouldn't be a total disaster. If the cabin sole rotted you can always chop it out and drop it a few inches for more headroom. I did that on my Triton and also replaced the sole in the head with a teak grating that drains to the bilge so I can shower in the head.

My budget Triton bluewater project is almost done. Working on getting packed up to move into and launch the boat. I'll start a thread and post a bunch of photos hopefully next week sometime.

Carl-A259 · Post by **Carl-A259** » Sun Sep 30, 2012 7:59 pm

Crazer, Look the simplest way to keep water from soaking the entire interior is to simply drill a hole in the hull below the sole, anywhere in the keel/bilge will work. Of all the steps in refitting one of these boats patching a 1/2" hole is the easiest thing. It sure saves a lot of repair from water damage. I have an Ariel where the owner removed every piece of work from the interior because of rainwater damage. the rainwater literally ate the nuts off the head studs on the A4, Too big a project for me to refit, makes a good parts boat though.
Plan on putting a garboard drain drain in the keel somewhere down low where you can still reach it from the inside is ideal. I put one in every boat I do. I work a little different than most. I mount it from inside the keel so the plug is removed from the inside the boat, this leaves it flush on the outside of the hull. the only bump on the outside of the hull is the three heads of the carriage bolts I use. If this out of the question for you, try removing the hose from the lowest seacock.
I once saw a 40ft ketch with rainwater up to the counter tops, it looked and smelled terrible. How it even remained on the stands surprised me... At least the hull was water tight, LOL

earlylight · Post by **earlylight** » Sun Sep 30, 2012 8:27 pm

You may wish to install the Garboard Drain from the outside. It can still be flush mounted as shown on my web site at: http://earlylight160.110mb.com/InstallG ... Drain.html
Mounting from the outside makes it much easier to locate it at the very lowest point in the bilge yet still easy to reach since you remove the plug from the outside of the boat once she is on the hard.

Tallystick · Post by **Tallystick** » Sun Sep 30, 2012 9:34 pm

You have a water tank replacement on your list. I still have the fiberglass tank so my water might taste nasty also. What I'm going to try is running an inline water filtration system, which I'll want anyways since I have rainwater collection setup from one of the deck drains. I'll let you know how that turns out. Hopefully a good carbon filter will remove any organics that are leeching out of the fiberglass tank. Another option I've considered is using some food grade paint that I have to coat the interior, but I don't know of a good way to coat the entire interior. Maybe there is a spray gun attachment that would work?

Crazer · Post by **Crazer** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:17 pm

Well my worst fears were confirmed. Go here for the story: http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6854

I'm not sure how to proceed, I'll do my best to save the engine but if it ends up needing replacement or a complete rebuild I'm not sure how feasible this restoration will be, given my time and budget constraints. Efforts are underway to evaluate my options. The only good thing about the whole situation is that there really wasn't much else other than the engine that could be damaged. Some tools, but those are easily replaced. Everything else was either non-functional or slated for replacement. If I *can* save the engine then the only harm done will be an nice oily mess on the inside. Annoying, but not a major setback. Tomorrow I'll do what I can for the engine.

Tallystick · Post by **Tallystick** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 10:20 pm

After you get the water out of the boat, you should make sure the exterior of the motor is dry, especially the electrical connections. Get a working battery, remove the spark plugs, and crank the motor to expel any water that is inside the cylinders, then spray wd-40 or pour in some marvel mystery oil and crank it again to coat the cylinders. Drain the oil and look for water. If it's not mixed with water, replace the oil, if it is, you'll need to flush out the water by cycling oil through and cranking. You can get free used oil from any oil change shop that will be fine for this purpose.

Once the water is out, you should check for compression. The autoparts stores have loaner tools including a compression tester that you can use for free.

First rule on troubleshooting any gas engine is that it needs compression, fuel, spark and timing to run. Check for each of these systematically and if you don't have one figure out what is preventing it. If you have all four the engine will start.

I highly doubt your motor is ruined beyond repair. The diesel motor on my boat was seized from rust internally when I got it, now it runs great and I didn't have to spend much rebuildling it. You might have to spend more time tearing into the motor than you'd like, but if you do you'll learn a lot and it will be a better motor than it was when you got it.

Now that the water is drained, you must cycle clean oil through the motor, otherwise you'll start getting rust in the cylinders and in the head if they are wet and exposed to air.

Carl-A259 · Post by **Carl-A259** » Tue Oct 02, 2012 1:12 am

I like Tim's method of cleaning an oily mess, which should work for you. Pressure washer and blast away! With your drain holes now in the hull, this problem won't happen again. In the cost of refitting, if your engine is toast, a replacement isn't a huge setback. For the Triton , a outboard well and a outboard would work nicely. Although I buy inboard engines for less than an outboard. I wouldn't get too upset if you only get to minimize further damage and not get much of what you have now corrected, that's a lot to get done in one day. I would suggest concentrating on one boat and not get sidelined with dragging home other boat projects. I have done this and it makes the progress move too slowly. One thing to seriously think about is, if your resources for this project are limited as you say, this boat boat sounds like a considerable undertaking of time and resources. Complete interior rebuild, including wiring, engine, etc. I'm sure deckwork as well, plus having someone to transport it to your home. I don't know, maybe this isn't the boat for you. This boat for myself would be a multiyear project and several thousand dollars, although if your not in a big hurry to sail, it certainly is doable. Good Luck!

TampaBay · Post by **TampaBay** » Tue Oct 02, 2012 10:31 am

The yard might loan you a lift. You could pull the engine and take it home, for a winter project.

Crazer · Post by **Crazer** » Wed Oct 03, 2012 3:47 am

Well my resources aren't that limited in the long run, it's mostly time as opposed to cost. I could afford in monetary terms to replace the engine but I really would like to not have to take a multi-month detour to find a new engine, get the old one out, tune up the new one, and install it. I will be working on this boat full time once I get it here, and my budget is ~$10k for the whole project. The decks are already done, they just need fairing, so really it's just the interior that needs work. I'm in it for the long haul for sure but tackling an engine replacement was never in the plans. I dunno, I'd do it if it had to be done, one look at that sweet hull and I knew I couldn't walk away from her. It's just time and money. Besides, I want to make a career out of this so I'd better get pretty good at it.

earlylight · Post by **earlylight** » Wed Oct 03, 2012 8:20 am

Since the decks are basically done with the exception of the fairing, you are fortunate. A friend of mine replaced his Atomic 4 in a Triton with a used 2 cylinder Yanmar of approx 12 HP that he paid less than $1 K for and with another $300 in misc items he had a smooth running diesel which has served him very well. I guess my point is, take your time looking for a good used diesel (try marinas that do a lot of re-powering jobs) but don't give up on the project.

We will all be watching for your project updates!.
Best of luck!

Tallystick · Post by **Tallystick** » Wed Oct 03, 2012 12:37 pm

It helps to have your boat as close as possible to your house when you are refitting. Saves a lot of transportation time and expense. If you have a place to keep your boat on a trailer, that might be a big help to your project. The trailer my Triton is on will be for sale soon if you are interested.

Carl-A259 · Post by **Carl-A259** » Wed Oct 03, 2012 8:02 pm

I don't think the engine replacement will be as big a deal as you may think. it's actually a good time to jerk it out of there and rebuild or replace while the interior is out of the boat. With the engine out it makes it a lot easier to clean and replace thru hulls etc. in that area of the Triton. If engine work is something that your new to, the A4 is really simple engine to mess with. People either love em or hate em. I have two good running 77 model A4s and one Yanmar 2 cyl. diesel. The engine in my Triton needs replacing as well. I'm trying to decide which obsolete engine to use to replace my Triton's obsolete engine with! LOL

Tallystick · Post by **Tallystick** » Wed Oct 03, 2012 11:07 pm

Agreed, I enjoyed rebuilding the old Isuzu 2cyl diesel in my boat. I don't think the A4 will even need to be replaced. Even if there is internal rust from being submerged, the bottom end is probably fine. Rusted cylinders can be honed easily enough, and if the valves are rusted they can be cleaned and reseated. My isuzu diesel was seized from internal rust and now it runs fine. Rust from the head had fallen into the valve seats and wouldn't let the valves fully close for the motor to turn over completely.

You'll be fine.

Crazer · Post by **Crazer** » Mon Oct 22, 2012 3:20 pm

*deleted*

Crazer · Post by **Crazer** » Mon Oct 22, 2012 8:31 pm

*deleted*

Carl-A259 · Post by **Carl-A259** » Tue Oct 23, 2012 2:46 pm

Thought you giving the boat away? or donating it?

Crazer · Post by **Crazer** » Mon Oct 29, 2012 10:28 pm

Sold her today. It's sad, but happy too, and I'm very relieved. I made the right call. She'll have a better home than I can give her. I have another boat, a much simpler project, in my sights. So stay tuned, I continue on.

earlylight · Post by **earlylight** » Mon Oct 29, 2012 11:54 pm

Sorry to hear that you were not able to see your project through, but at least she will have another chance. Best of luck with your "smaller" project. I look forward to your future posts here on the forum.