Com-Pac Interior
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- Deck Grunge Scrubber
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Thu Jul 06, 2006 11:08 pm
- Location: Morganton, North Carolina
Com-Pac Interior
It's been quite a while since my last post. But, I must thank all of you for the information and inspiration you provide on this forum!! Without your information I may not have tackled this project.
As you already know and I can confirm with certainty, all things are connected. Long story short, last year, I decided to tackle the old bottom paint job on my little boat and found blisters. So, tackled that job, too. Then realized the interior must be dry as well, so sought out that musty, moldy smell in the cuddy cabin. Let's just say I now understand how the term "bilge water" could be a curse word in the days of old.
So, here's the unsuspecting interior view:
Started snooping:
Kept looking:
Found it. I had already sopped up sponge-fulls of water. No telling how long it had been in their. PO, right. ::) Water is one thing in there, but the three small plywood squares (one in the photo) where completely soaked. I have never seen plywood turn to sponge before. The foam looks like a two part polyurethane poured on place. The plywood squares, I assume, were set up in place to prevent the expansion from interfering with the compression post access area.
Cleaned up, a little. You can't see it well in the photo, but the compression post bolt holes are elongated. Probably not a good sign. Didn't photo the forward side if the small bulkhead, but there was evidence of water damage there as well. In fact, prior to cutting the hole in the floor around the compression post, I tested the bulkhead plywood with a screwdriver. It pushed in quite easily.
Here's the "half full" foam:
Now for my reconstruction. I removed the remaining floor that was glassed in, leaving a small edge of the tabbing as a guide. I removed the bulkhead and used it as a template for the new, also leaving a small amount of tabbing (1-2mm) as a guide. The original plywood was probably Class B-C grade with on layer of loose fitting fiberglass tabbing. I did take the opportunity to peer under the berths. All clear. No evidence of water in those nether regions. Foam was OK, too. However, I must confess, I did replace the plywood with the same grade B-C. This, of course, happened after I viewed all the posts regarding marine grade plywood. But, I rationalize, the pieces are stiff (read small) and dry with minimal voids. I attached these with fillets per the West System instructions and glassed over the fillets with 4" biaxial tape followed by 6" biaxial tape on either side of the bulkheads.
I added the forward bulkhead, because the floor came out in two pieces. It would not have gone through the companionway as one big piece. So, I figured I could replace it in two pieces with the added benefit of creating three airtight compartments. This may serve as flotation and provide more stiffness than the foam.
I tabbed and glassed the forward section of floor yesterday, but have no photos as I write this. Will post later. Any input is welcomed.
Paul
As you already know and I can confirm with certainty, all things are connected. Long story short, last year, I decided to tackle the old bottom paint job on my little boat and found blisters. So, tackled that job, too. Then realized the interior must be dry as well, so sought out that musty, moldy smell in the cuddy cabin. Let's just say I now understand how the term "bilge water" could be a curse word in the days of old.
So, here's the unsuspecting interior view:
Started snooping:
Kept looking:
Found it. I had already sopped up sponge-fulls of water. No telling how long it had been in their. PO, right. ::) Water is one thing in there, but the three small plywood squares (one in the photo) where completely soaked. I have never seen plywood turn to sponge before. The foam looks like a two part polyurethane poured on place. The plywood squares, I assume, were set up in place to prevent the expansion from interfering with the compression post access area.
Cleaned up, a little. You can't see it well in the photo, but the compression post bolt holes are elongated. Probably not a good sign. Didn't photo the forward side if the small bulkhead, but there was evidence of water damage there as well. In fact, prior to cutting the hole in the floor around the compression post, I tested the bulkhead plywood with a screwdriver. It pushed in quite easily.
Here's the "half full" foam:
Now for my reconstruction. I removed the remaining floor that was glassed in, leaving a small edge of the tabbing as a guide. I removed the bulkhead and used it as a template for the new, also leaving a small amount of tabbing (1-2mm) as a guide. The original plywood was probably Class B-C grade with on layer of loose fitting fiberglass tabbing. I did take the opportunity to peer under the berths. All clear. No evidence of water in those nether regions. Foam was OK, too. However, I must confess, I did replace the plywood with the same grade B-C. This, of course, happened after I viewed all the posts regarding marine grade plywood. But, I rationalize, the pieces are stiff (read small) and dry with minimal voids. I attached these with fillets per the West System instructions and glassed over the fillets with 4" biaxial tape followed by 6" biaxial tape on either side of the bulkheads.
I added the forward bulkhead, because the floor came out in two pieces. It would not have gone through the companionway as one big piece. So, I figured I could replace it in two pieces with the added benefit of creating three airtight compartments. This may serve as flotation and provide more stiffness than the foam.
I tabbed and glassed the forward section of floor yesterday, but have no photos as I write this. Will post later. Any input is welcomed.
Paul
s/v Little Wing
Com-Pac 16
Com-Pac 16
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- Deck Grunge Scrubber
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Thu Jul 06, 2006 11:08 pm
- Location: Morganton, North Carolina
OK, so it's slow going for the newbie. ;)
I do have the forward floor in place. I have successfully dry-fit the aft section of the floor as well. But, before I tab that section in place, I measured the compression post hole. The first photo of this thread shows the original set up. However, I discovered the new bulkhead slants aft ever so slightly. Enough to offset the compression post 1.5" aft of the original attachment point in the deck. Easy enough to fix, I suppose, but here's my question: What effect will there be if the post is angled a few degrees rather than in line with the forces exerted upon it?
Note that the deck is solid fiberglass, except for the step, which appears to be a piece of solid wood measuring 6"x8"x3/4". The post is still positioned well under the step. The tabernacle can remain in it's location.
My second question has to do with painting topsides. How cool can the ambient temperature be and still get good results? Looks like it will be well into fall before I get a chance to paint. Usually NC is pretty dry in the fall, so humidity will be down, relative to summer.
Final question: What is the best method for removing 5200 from the gelcoat? 5200 remains after removing the motor mount, swim ladder, and chainplates.
Thanks,
Paul
I do have the forward floor in place. I have successfully dry-fit the aft section of the floor as well. But, before I tab that section in place, I measured the compression post hole. The first photo of this thread shows the original set up. However, I discovered the new bulkhead slants aft ever so slightly. Enough to offset the compression post 1.5" aft of the original attachment point in the deck. Easy enough to fix, I suppose, but here's my question: What effect will there be if the post is angled a few degrees rather than in line with the forces exerted upon it?
Note that the deck is solid fiberglass, except for the step, which appears to be a piece of solid wood measuring 6"x8"x3/4". The post is still positioned well under the step. The tabernacle can remain in it's location.
My second question has to do with painting topsides. How cool can the ambient temperature be and still get good results? Looks like it will be well into fall before I get a chance to paint. Usually NC is pretty dry in the fall, so humidity will be down, relative to summer.
Final question: What is the best method for removing 5200 from the gelcoat? 5200 remains after removing the motor mount, swim ladder, and chainplates.
Thanks,
Paul
s/v Little Wing
Com-Pac 16
Com-Pac 16
- Tim
- Shipwright Extraordinaire
- Posts: 5708
- Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2003 6:39 pm
- Boat Name: Glissando
- Boat Type: Pearson Triton
- Location: Whitefield, ME
- Contact:
It'd be best to have the compression post remain as vertical as possible. A slight angle won't be the end of the world, but a 1.5" offset seems a bit much to me. Columnar supports rely on being straight and remaining in column; seemingly smallish deviations can actually have a much more significant effect than one might think.PGplastic wrote:What effect will there be if the post is angled a few degrees rather than in line with the forces exerted upon it?
Can you correct the angle by shimming, or by milling a counter-angle on the bottom of the post to account for the angle of your bulkhead?
It can be annoying to discover these errors, but it's usually best to take corrective action rather than try and live with something that you know might not be as good as it could be.
That depends on the paint. The individual paint directions normally indicate a desired temperature range. Deviate from this at your own risk.PGplastic wrote:My second question has to do with painting topsides. How cool can the ambient temperature be and still get good results?
There's a product called Antibond 2015 that will release the bond of 5200 and other polyurethane adhesives. It actually does work (I've used it) as long as you can physically spray it on the adhesive itself. Between this and careful putty knife (or 5-in-1 tool) work, you ought to be able to remove the 5200 without damaging the gelcoat. Beware that if you force things, you run the risk of pulling chunks of the gelcoat off along with the adhesive. So take it slow, use the solvent, and hope for the best.PGplastic wrote:Final question: What is the best method for removing 5200 from the gelcoat? 5200 remains after removing the motor mount, swim ladder, and chainplates.
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Forum Founder--No Longer Participating
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-
- Deck Grunge Scrubber
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Thu Jul 06, 2006 11:08 pm
- Location: Morganton, North Carolina
Yes, it appears that either shimming or milling a counter-angle will work here. I am leaning toward the milling option at the moment.
Paint research begins. Thought I'd start with Interlux.
I'm not too worried about creating more work for myself. As you can tell, I'm pretty good at it. But, I am concerned about contaminating the gelcoat prior to painting. So, the Antibond will help in that regard.
Thanks. I'll keep at it.
Paint research begins. Thought I'd start with Interlux.
I'm not too worried about creating more work for myself. As you can tell, I'm pretty good at it. But, I am concerned about contaminating the gelcoat prior to painting. So, the Antibond will help in that regard.
Thanks. I'll keep at it.
s/v Little Wing
Com-Pac 16
Com-Pac 16
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- Deck Grunge Scrubber
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Thu Jul 06, 2006 11:08 pm
- Location: Morganton, North Carolina
Measured twice cut once. The compression post dry fits perfectly. Actually, I should give credit to a friend of mine who has his own woodworking shop by his house. Used to work for Drexel Furniture until it closed down. Skilled craftsman, he. Gave us a chance to catch up, too.
Regarding the paint research, I'm leaning toward Interlux. However, I find they are so proud of every topside paint, deciding upon one is difficult. This will be my first attempt. I like the idea of Teflon in the Brightside. Perfection seems a bit daunting, but by all counts, seems the most durable. I am concerned about the Toplac, as it has silicone. Isn't silicone a NO-NO on boats. There is so much information "out there" recommending avoiding silicone when preparing a surface that it now seems counterintuitive to use it in the paint. This is the same silicone, right? But, Interlux makes it sound like it is the easiest to apply.
Any recommendations are welcome. Thanks,
Paul
Regarding the paint research, I'm leaning toward Interlux. However, I find they are so proud of every topside paint, deciding upon one is difficult. This will be my first attempt. I like the idea of Teflon in the Brightside. Perfection seems a bit daunting, but by all counts, seems the most durable. I am concerned about the Toplac, as it has silicone. Isn't silicone a NO-NO on boats. There is so much information "out there" recommending avoiding silicone when preparing a surface that it now seems counterintuitive to use it in the paint. This is the same silicone, right? But, Interlux makes it sound like it is the easiest to apply.
Any recommendations are welcome. Thanks,
Paul
s/v Little Wing
Com-Pac 16
Com-Pac 16
- rshowarth
- Skilled Systems Installer
- Posts: 157
- Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2005 2:39 am
- Location: Los Angeles
A friend used Perfection, thought it was easy to work with and obtained a good result.
Last edited by rshowarth on Wed Oct 17, 2007 6:30 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Catalina 27
O'Day Rhodes 19 Custodian
Catalina 27
O'Day Rhodes 19 Custodian
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- Damned Because It's All Connected
- Posts: 2846
- Joined: Tue Apr 08, 2003 9:32 am
- Boat Name: Triton
- Boat Type: Grand Banks 42
- Location: L.I. Sound
I found "perfection" to be quite user-friendly when I used it on the jeep hardtop. Certainly not as daunting as it would seem. It's a 2-part so of course it's a smidge more hassle than the brightside or toplac, but I can already tell that it has superior color and gloss retention.
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- Skilled Systems Installer
- Posts: 194
- Joined: Thu Jan 12, 2006 6:04 pm
- Boat Type: Westsail 32
- Location: Erlanger, Ky
I used perfection and it is really quite simple All you need is the perfect mix, perfect temperature, perfect cloud cover, and perfect wind conditions. That is after all why they call it perfection. I'm kidding actually these factors affect all two part paints. I just need to match my free time to the right season. The only problem I had was one time I painted too late in the day and the dew ruined my gloss. Fortunately it was only on the smooth areas of the cabintop and an easy fix.
On the other hand I think the folks at Interlux are colorblind. I painted my nonskid with Interdeck beige and everyone comments on my new pink cabintop.
On the other hand I think the folks at Interlux are colorblind. I painted my nonskid with Interdeck beige and everyone comments on my new pink cabintop.
The board does not cut itself short!
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- Deck Grunge Scrubber
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Thu Jul 06, 2006 11:08 pm
- Location: Morganton, North Carolina
Funny you should say that. I was concerned about the nature of their non-skid based on photos I'd seen. I was optimistic and chalked it up to the lighting in the photos, but then again....On the other hand I think the folks at Interlux are colorblind. I painted my nonskid with Interdeck beige and everyone comments on my new pink cabintop.
I like the current color of my non-skid. Is there a way to match it? Or, one color beige fits all. I'd prefer the flattish, palish beige rather than an intense beige.
s/v Little Wing
Com-Pac 16
Com-Pac 16
- Tim
- Shipwright Extraordinaire
- Posts: 5708
- Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2003 6:39 pm
- Boat Name: Glissando
- Boat Type: Pearson Triton
- Location: Whitefield, ME
- Contact:
I recently had good luck mixing 50/50 beige and white Interdeck to create a more pleasing shade of lighter beige.PGplastic wrote:I like the current color of my non-skid. Is there a way to match it? Or, one color beige fits all. I'd prefer the flattish, palish beige rather than an intense beige.
Custom Mix Beige (1/2 beige, 1/2 white)
Stock Interdeck Beige
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- Skilled Systems Installer
- Posts: 194
- Joined: Thu Jan 12, 2006 6:04 pm
- Boat Type: Westsail 32
- Location: Erlanger, Ky
I was planning to mix in white if I found the beige to be too dark but when it actually came out looking pink I figured adding white would just give me a paler pink. From your pictures that doesn't appear to be the case. I guess I need to spend 2 more hours of taping for 20 minutes of painting.
The board does not cut itself short!
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- Skilled Systems Installer
- Posts: 200
- Joined: Wed Jan 11, 2006 12:50 am
- Location: Massachusetts
- Contact:
-
- Deck Grunge Scrubber
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Thu Jul 06, 2006 11:08 pm
- Location: Morganton, North Carolina
That is so cool. Thanks for the tip. 50/50 mix is my preference on my project.
I can't help be wonder if the beige is more compatible with the darker wood of the Daysailor. What's the color scheme for the brightwork of your current project? I have very little teak on the CP-16. It's a very little boat, after all. My plan is to clean the teak and oil it. So, I figure the paler beige will be compatible.
Paul
I can't help be wonder if the beige is more compatible with the darker wood of the Daysailor. What's the color scheme for the brightwork of your current project? I have very little teak on the CP-16. It's a very little boat, after all. My plan is to clean the teak and oil it. So, I figure the paler beige will be compatible.
Paul
s/v Little Wing
Com-Pac 16
Com-Pac 16
- Tim
- Shipwright Extraordinaire
- Posts: 5708
- Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2003 6:39 pm
- Boat Name: Glissando
- Boat Type: Pearson Triton
- Location: Whitefield, ME
- Contact:
I don't mind the stock beige and don't really see the pink coloration.
That said, I much prefer the 50/50 mix of white and beige, having used it once now. Note that the photo of this color, seen under fluorescent shop lights, is not even particularly accurate; the color is a bit less "yellow" in natural light, and even more attractive than it looks here, I think.
That said, I much prefer the 50/50 mix of white and beige, having used it once now. Note that the photo of this color, seen under fluorescent shop lights, is not even particularly accurate; the color is a bit less "yellow" in natural light, and even more attractive than it looks here, I think.
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Forum Founder--No Longer Participating
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- Tim
- Shipwright Extraordinaire
- Posts: 5708
- Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2003 6:39 pm
- Boat Name: Glissando
- Boat Type: Pearson Triton
- Location: Whitefield, ME
- Contact:
No, no. That's a space-age mast boot fabric.Tim Mertinooke wrote:Am I seeing duct tape around the mast step?
(Actually, it's #225 silver masking tape, not duct tape. Someone didn't get around to conceiving a mast collar and having made a mast boot.)
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