Primary filter location

[Figment]

I have two convenient options for the location of my primary filter.

1) (original location) in the step-box thingy at the base of the companionway. The drawback of this location is that the new unit is fairly tall, and collecting fuel/water from the bleed at the bottom will be messy. By 'messy" I mean "stuff paper towels in the bilge to catch whatever".

2) In the cockpit locker, right at the tank. Access doesn't get any better, but the height of the mount would mean that the filter is not self-priming unless the tank is nearly full. I haven't looked into it, but I assume that a priming bulb in the line is a no-no.

Which is the lesser evil?

[bcooke]

Cockpit locker. Your A4 might hiccup a bit but it won't suffer anything serious. You will probably only change the filter once a season in any case.

Install a shutoff valve at the tank outlet -before the filter - fill the filter bowl before you reinstall it and I bet you won't get much air in there in the first place. I really like a shutoff at the tank (and just before the carburetor) anyway. That way I don't worry about a stuck needle valve in the carburetor filling up my bilge with fuel and causing my boat to explode.

-Britton

P.S. I am thinking a tank installation like yours might make a good auxiliarly tank that would be empty most of the time except for when a long period of motoring is encounted. More pictures please!

[FloatingMoneyPit]

I don't know for certain if a priming bulb is a USCG no-no, but I doubt it.
I ran my A4 for part of a season using the bulb to cope with intermittent shutdowns (jumping down below to squeeze some fuel into the carb every 5 minutes--fun) and it's been an invaluable diagnostic tool. If that ain't enough reason to put one in your setup, then do it because Moyer highly recommends it! It does eliminate potential messes created while filling/replacing the Racor element, too.

Oh, and ditto on the shut off valve. Some sort of shut off immediately after the tank pickup is in fact a requirement.

[Tim]

I'd install the filter in the cockpit locker. No-brainer.

You're required to have a shutoff valve at the tank in any case, in any installation where siphoning may occur. There are other ways to provide this antisiphon protection as well, but a manual valve at the tank outlet is the simplest.

There is nothing specifically, or even generally, indicating that a fuel priming bulb is a bad thing. I'd install one if I were you. They are most helpful.

I had a priming bulb in my diesel system originally, but when my stinky, lousy old SB12 failed to run during its initial testing, I removed the bulb after listening to some bad advice (well, that's not really fair...the engine did seem like it was airlocked, and the thought was that perhaps the priming bulb was allowing air into the system somehow). The bulb wasn't the culprit, as it turned out; it was just worn rings, blown head gasket, improperly operating governor, and a host of other issues with the engine. What a piece of junk that was. (Invaluable lesson #1 learned.)

I haven't reinstalled the priming bulb so far, but there have been many times I wished for it. I'll probably put it back in the system eventually.

[jpmathieu]

I installed new fuel system in my renegade last year

I started with a new fuel tank because I was having never ending problems with sediment in the A4 carb, even with a filter. With the new tank I installed new hoses throughout, a shut off at the tank, a shutoff at the new filter with a water seperater which in Renegade dinette model I have plenty of room in the engine compartment. I also installed a primer bulb before the filter, after reading up on the subject from Moyer. I Finished with a new fuel pump from Moyer.

The Bonus of the whole setup was a new fuel gauge, no more opening the fuel fill in the cockpit floor and putting in a measuring dowel. ( Yes I did move the fuel fill also, It never made sense that Pearson would install a fuel fill in the bottom of the cockpit, water in my fuel was always on my mind, It was never easy using a jerry can).

When I first started the system , I crossed my fingers, primed the bulb, pushed the starter button, my A4 never, and I mean never started so fast, and it stayed running.

I am happy I finally replaced the whole fuel system, and used every suggestion I could find, it solved a boatload of problems.

Anyway, for my 2 cents, I suggest you give yourself some elbow room wherever you put a filter, and make sure its accessable in a pinch.

[Figment]

Now that you mention it, I do recall seeing a Moyer tip about the priming bulb somewhere along the line. I suppose my brain had classified it in the "not below decks" category with the red tanks and the rest of the outboard-motor accoutrements.

The shutoff valve was never in question. I'm quite happy to be discarding the old spinning-wheel gate valve for a simple little ball valve.

Thanks for the reassurance, fellas.

[Robert The Gray]

I myself used a "clacker pump" from napa auto between my tank and the racor filter for my volvo penta MD7B. I was advised to do this by some men in greasy coveralls. Was I led astray? This is the link to the pump I think I used. I am not sure if this is better or the same as an in-line manual fuel bulb. There is a small manual diaphragm pump on the engine but flicking the little lever to get the fuel all the way through the filter to the injectors is like jacking off a rat, pointless and it leaves me unsatisfied with scratched and smelly hands.

the pump
http://www.napaonline.com//MasterPages/ ... Cube+Type)

I wired it to the assc. pole of the started key. This makes refilling the filter bowl and bleeding the lines easy. I have had no problems with it so far........

r

[Figment]

flicking the little lever to get the fuel all the way through the filter to the injectors is like jacking off a rat, pointless and it leaves me unsatisfied with scratched and smelly hands.

That one's going to stick with me for a while! I needed a gool laugh today. hank you.
(primarily because it's SO friggin true)

[Tim]

Just be sure that any electric pump installed in a gasoline system is rated for ignition protection (aka spark proof). Many automotive pumps may not have enclosed housings. If it doesn't say it's ignition protected somewhere on a pump or in its documentation, then it's not.

Robert, I've never heard a description of the futility of priming an engine with the engine-mounted fuel pump lever stated so...um...eloquently! hehe

[Ceasar Choppy]

The Bonus of the whole setup was a new fuel gauge, no more opening the fuel fill in the cockpit floor and putting in a measuring dowel. ( Yes I did move the fuel fill also, It never made sense that Pearson would install a fuel fill in the bottom of the cockpit, water in my fuel was always on my mind, It was never easy using a jerry can).

Not to hijack this thread too much, but I'm curious as to where you relocate the new fill?

[Robert The Gray]

Thanks guys,

The comic loves to hear laughs.
The silence after the submit button is horrifying at times.
Should that brain litter have been composted?
It is nice to feel part of the community.

r

[jpmathieu]

[Not to hijack this thread too much, but I'm curious as to where you relocate the new fill]

After a lengthy contemplation on the matter the only place that seemed to work for me was between the mainsheet track and the rear lazarette hatch. There is about 6-8 inches which allowed for a flush install while keeping the fill hose tucked to the front side of the rear lazarette which also proved to nice run for the hose. I also tryed to keep it on the centerline of the boat for obvious reasons. I'm working on a site which will include pictures (actually I relegated my wife to work on it for me).

Sorry for going off on a tangent.