In effort to minimize deck clutter, I'm thinking about locating my breast cleats in a location that would allow them to serve double-duty as twing leads. Obviously, the downfall of this approach is that I only get one shot at getting the location right.
I'd love to hear any thoughts on optimal twing locations for a Triton.
George and Brock, your Triton racing days aren't in the too-distant past are they? Can you remember where you ran your twings?
Thanks all.
Spinnakering question: twings
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Sorry, Mike, but I don't have a Triton. In fact, the spinnaker I have for Heart is in pretty sad shape, and won't be replaced until this winter.
(I wish I had a new spinnaker. I wish I had a new spinnaker. I wish....)
(I wish I had a new spinnaker. I wish I had a new spinnaker. I wish....)
Doug
http://heartofgoldsails.com
"The cure for anything is salt water: sweat, tears or the sea."
Karen Blixen
http://heartofgoldsails.com
"The cure for anything is salt water: sweat, tears or the sea."
Karen Blixen
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Yall sure do talk funny up thar, Mike. You must mean tweakers. I haven't flown the chute from the Triton (I've got the chute but am missing some hardware). However, I race on a Jeanneau Sunrise and we snap them on the rail -- well aft of where breast cleats would be located on a Triton. I suppose they could do double duty with a long lead. The way I've set them (again, not on the Triton) is so they can be set and released by the pit guy. Of course, I'm on main so I really have no idea what I'm talking about. :)
Are you racing your Triton?
Are you racing your Triton?
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Yeah, I suppose I should reduce regional confusion by defining "twing":
On boats that don't bother with the complexity and spaghetti of having a sheet AND a guy line rigged to each clew of the spinnaker, a "twing" is used to let one line act as both sheet and guy. The twing is really just a small bullet block on a line. Run the sheet through this block on its way to the clew, and then you can alter the "lead" of that sheet so that it can also be used as the guy.
Their purpose is similar to that of a barberhauler, but kinda in reverse.
Oh, I may do the occasional plastic classic race. I'll also compete in some other events that really shouldn't be called "racing" at all. So I guess the answer to your question is "no, not really".
I'm one of those guys (so are you, evidently) that lets the other guy spend the crazy money keeping his boat in racing trim, and just tags along as crew.
As a baseline-thought, I think the proper twing location is probably a touch over 4' aft of the upper shrouds... about midway down the forward deadlight window. This is also roughly the point of maximum beam on the boat, which is what started me thinking along these lines in the first place.
I'm sure that I'm within a foot of the correct location (much farther aft and I might as well just use the genoa cars) but I figured someone else might have it REALLY figured out...
On boats that don't bother with the complexity and spaghetti of having a sheet AND a guy line rigged to each clew of the spinnaker, a "twing" is used to let one line act as both sheet and guy. The twing is really just a small bullet block on a line. Run the sheet through this block on its way to the clew, and then you can alter the "lead" of that sheet so that it can also be used as the guy.
Their purpose is similar to that of a barberhauler, but kinda in reverse.
Oh, I may do the occasional plastic classic race. I'll also compete in some other events that really shouldn't be called "racing" at all. So I guess the answer to your question is "no, not really".
I'm one of those guys (so are you, evidently) that lets the other guy spend the crazy money keeping his boat in racing trim, and just tags along as crew.
As a baseline-thought, I think the proper twing location is probably a touch over 4' aft of the upper shrouds... about midway down the forward deadlight window. This is also roughly the point of maximum beam on the boat, which is what started me thinking along these lines in the first place.
I'm sure that I'm within a foot of the correct location (much farther aft and I might as well just use the genoa cars) but I figured someone else might have it REALLY figured out...
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We don't use twings on good goose. Our spinnaker blocks are as far aft as possible and the lead seems ok. If I was going to use them I would try them on a stanchion or on my Genoa track. Most races its all we can do to get the thing launched, flying and back down again. It seems to work ok without the twings so we just go with it. Two less lines to forget to release less spaghetti. I would try it without first then add if needed.
My next chute is an asymetrical. Easier to fly with an inexperienced crew. quicker to set and douse. A little slower but I think it is more then made up for with faster trouble free sets with small crews. A boat in our class that I sometimes beat switched to an asymetrical and now they usually beat us. Due mostly to our poor spinnaker sets. We usually race short courses and the speed of the set is more important then the advantage a full spinnaker would give over an asymetrical.
Hopes this helps
Brock Richardson
My next chute is an asymetrical. Easier to fly with an inexperienced crew. quicker to set and douse. A little slower but I think it is more then made up for with faster trouble free sets with small crews. A boat in our class that I sometimes beat switched to an asymetrical and now they usually beat us. Due mostly to our poor spinnaker sets. We usually race short courses and the speed of the set is more important then the advantage a full spinnaker would give over an asymetrical.
Hopes this helps
Brock Richardson