Since my Triton is on a trailer now I'm thinking I need a way to easily step the mast by myself. What are your opinions on a hinged step or a tabernacle? The hinge looks nicer aesthetically to me, but??
John
Triton Yawl #15
Hinge or Tabernacle mast step?
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I don't know which is better, but I did find a neat way to lower and raise a mast single-handed. It's posted on the Alberg Site and uses an "A" frame that goes up to just above the spreaders. I made one for my boat (heavy Proctor 30' mast) and it works like a charm, both ways. I used chain link fencing galvanized pipe, and joined two ten foot pieces for each leg.
On my first attempt I had a friend stand by and operate the winch, but subsequently I've done it myself. I also move my boat to a less-occupied area of the marina ... just in case!
On my first attempt I had a friend stand by and operate the winch, but subsequently I've done it myself. I also move my boat to a less-occupied area of the marina ... just in case!
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Here's Jean De Suds mast raising system: http://www.capehorn.com/sections/M%E2ta ... system.htm
I'm working on a design for a tabernacle much like the westsail 32's had. The mast step, and lower inch or two of my mast are corroded. So partially in hope of saving the extrusion and also to go through the canals in europe... sure would be nice to save on crane fee's!
The two points I haven't found specs for are what size pin does it take before the extrusion can take the compression load without trying to buckle, or elongate the holes for the pin.
Haven't really found any fiberglass boats with aluminum masts that use a true tabernacle, though there are lots of wood boats to choose from that set the tabernacle at deck height and leave a hole for the mast to swing out. Most do not lower fully, and still require some heavy lifting/ A frame use to get them laying flat on deck.
Good luck! Keep us posted!
I'm working on a design for a tabernacle much like the westsail 32's had. The mast step, and lower inch or two of my mast are corroded. So partially in hope of saving the extrusion and also to go through the canals in europe... sure would be nice to save on crane fee's!
The two points I haven't found specs for are what size pin does it take before the extrusion can take the compression load without trying to buckle, or elongate the holes for the pin.
Haven't really found any fiberglass boats with aluminum masts that use a true tabernacle, though there are lots of wood boats to choose from that set the tabernacle at deck height and leave a hole for the mast to swing out. Most do not lower fully, and still require some heavy lifting/ A frame use to get them laying flat on deck.
Good luck! Keep us posted!
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John, Zach,
This past summer I lowered my mast while in the water by using a 'gin pole' - I learned how to do this first by watching the Etchells 22 sailors at the clubs raise and lower their masts with this method. I had a Soling mast that I cut down to 25 feet, I attached braided low stretch lines to act as stays on the Soling mast and set up my new 'gin pole' next to my mast with a 6:1 tackle set up on the gin pole. I picked the mast at the spreaders. The Triton mast is top heavy at this pick so you need to hang to the base of the mast so it does not get away from you - I used a tag line too. By bringing the mast base foward and lowering on the tackle the whole shooting match comes right down. Of course the stays have to let go on the mast to use this method. It works pretty well. My own experience with this proved that if I simplified a few things and was set up a little better in a few areas it would have been even better.
This past summer I lowered my mast while in the water by using a 'gin pole' - I learned how to do this first by watching the Etchells 22 sailors at the clubs raise and lower their masts with this method. I had a Soling mast that I cut down to 25 feet, I attached braided low stretch lines to act as stays on the Soling mast and set up my new 'gin pole' next to my mast with a 6:1 tackle set up on the gin pole. I picked the mast at the spreaders. The Triton mast is top heavy at this pick so you need to hang to the base of the mast so it does not get away from you - I used a tag line too. By bringing the mast base foward and lowering on the tackle the whole shooting match comes right down. Of course the stays have to let go on the mast to use this method. It works pretty well. My own experience with this proved that if I simplified a few things and was set up a little better in a few areas it would have been even better.
Last edited by jollyboat on Fri Feb 22, 2008 2:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Brian
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Sepi,Triton #346 (1st, Triton)
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Sepi,Triton #346 (1st, Triton)
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John
I have a tabernacle on my boat. My thinking was that a Tabernacle gave me the ability to lower the mast to the stern. If you build one fabricate it so the pivot height is a little higher then the companion way hatch cover. It seems to me that lowering to the stern would be preferable to lowering forward as the mast would be near its pivot point when it was on the stern rail. Unfortunately I have been too chicken to try mine so I can't report on its operation.
Brock
I have a tabernacle on my boat. My thinking was that a Tabernacle gave me the ability to lower the mast to the stern. If you build one fabricate it so the pivot height is a little higher then the companion way hatch cover. It seems to me that lowering to the stern would be preferable to lowering forward as the mast would be near its pivot point when it was on the stern rail. Unfortunately I have been too chicken to try mine so I can't report on its operation.
Brock
I might have mentioned this before, but Ray Alsup bought a hinged mast step from Ballenger Spars, in California, and installed it on his West Coast Triton, "Pegasus."
I liked what Ray said about Ballenger:
"My search for a hinged mast step started in 1998 while visiting several firms specializing in rigging. The response I got was generally the same; they brought out a catalog of rigging fixtures, asked me how long my boat was then showed me a step you might find on a Catalina 25."
"Then one day while driving down the coast I stopped at Ballenger Spar System's, Inc., in Santa Cruz, California. The minute I walked into the shop I knew my step was here. Buzz Ballenger walked me through what was available (he builds several styles) that would handle the job without fear of marginal capabilities. "
Here's a link to his web page with information about the project (photo page linked to from within this page):
http://www.geocities.com/pegasus256/Rig.htm#Step
Ballenger Spars is here:
http://www.ballengerspars.com/
I liked what Ray said about Ballenger:
"My search for a hinged mast step started in 1998 while visiting several firms specializing in rigging. The response I got was generally the same; they brought out a catalog of rigging fixtures, asked me how long my boat was then showed me a step you might find on a Catalina 25."
"Then one day while driving down the coast I stopped at Ballenger Spar System's, Inc., in Santa Cruz, California. The minute I walked into the shop I knew my step was here. Buzz Ballenger walked me through what was available (he builds several styles) that would handle the job without fear of marginal capabilities. "
Here's a link to his web page with information about the project (photo page linked to from within this page):
http://www.geocities.com/pegasus256/Rig.htm#Step
Ballenger Spars is here:
http://www.ballengerspars.com/
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I have the kenyon pinned step shown in the rig-rite site. Seems to work very well, although the boat is only 25'. I have forward and aft lower stays and only pin up the aft stays and back stay when raising from the stern. I cleat off the jib halyard to the mast and run it through the block for the tack line of the assymetrical chute and back to a sheet winch. I support the mast on a small wooden "A" frame about 6' tall lashed to the pushpit stanchions. I also use this to support the mast when on the hard. The first few feet of lift is a bit of a grunt, so I use a clear 2 X 4 as a temporary gin pole from the mast base vertically at 90 degrees to the mast with a couple of lines to the upper shroud chain plates to keep it centered. This will fall free when the mast reaches about 35 degrees from the horizontal and the angle of the hoisting line is not so acute. I use the spinnaker halyard to keep it from crashing down. I've seen folks use the boom as the gin pole as well but it seems to require a great deal of padding so as not to take all the paint off everything.
I raise untill the slackened backstay comes up tight then pin the forestay and relax, since the rest is without fear.
The biggest thing seems to be keeping all the stays and running rigging organized and out from under foot. The first time I did it I had the topping lift looped around a spreader and I had double checked everything!
Feetup.
I raise untill the slackened backstay comes up tight then pin the forestay and relax, since the rest is without fear.
The biggest thing seems to be keeping all the stays and running rigging organized and out from under foot. The first time I did it I had the topping lift looped around a spreader and I had double checked everything!
Feetup.
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