Ballast

[Scott]

Hi, I'm new to the list, but have recently been looking around for an old Alberg designed sailboat to restore (too much time on my hands!!). My question is about older Tritons which I understand did not have encapsulated lead ballast. Has there been any (or many) problems with the bolted on ballast, and if so what should one be looking for? Is there anywhere a person can read up on what projects have ben done in this area?
Thanks,Scott

[Tim]

Has there been any (or many) problems with the bolted on ballast...?

Short answer: no.

But of course I never leave things with the short answer!

My own opinion is that external ballast is superior when properly installed. This is not to say that there's anything inherently wrong with internal (encapsulated) ballast. In the end, it doesn't make enough difference to ever sway one's opinion of one boat versus another. Of all the things to consider, internal vs. external ballast is very low on the list.

I like having the lead outside, as it avoids any issues with voids inside the keel (common enough), and also provides a softer, more shock-resistant surface should you ground the boat. Often, hard groundings on rock will severely dent an external lead keel, but cause no other damage to the boat; the boat can be sailed as is, and safely. Later, repairs would comprise grinding and hammering the lead smooth, and some fairing.

But the same grounding on an encapsulated boat might cause fiberglass damage that could open up a leak, either into the ballast cavity or even the bilge. This is certainly not to say that external ballast boats are immune from serious grounding damage--definitely not! But often they fare better in a "typical" grounding. I'd rather ground with external lead, if I had the choice.

Tritons have external ballast up to and including hull #381; all reports seem to indicate that Pearson switched to the encapsulated ballast with hull #382. Tritons are fortunate in that Pearson used Everdur bolts, a very durable, corrosion-resistant type of silicone bronze. The bolt heads are covered with fiberglass in the bilge, so inspection is virtually impossible. But I know of no confirmed reports of any ballast or bolt-on failures in these boats. I have never seen indications on any externally ballasted Triton that I have seen personally that the bolts were failing or loosening.

Some movement between fiberglass hull and lead ballast is inevitable, of course, which often causes a crack to form at the joint. It's also notable that the ballast pigs are rarely, if ever, perfectly shaped, so there was usually a need for some form of fairing compound/filler to fair the keel into the ballast. This is common and usually does not indicate any bolting issues.

Externally ballasted Tritons do have an Achilles heel, though: the false keel. This is a separately-molded fiberglass appendage that forms the deadwood of the keel aft of the ballast and to the trailing edge of the keel. You can see the outline of it in this photo, beginning at the upper rudder gudgeon and running diagonally forward (towards the orange jackstand handle in the photo).



The false keel, as it has become to be known, is typically lightweight in laminate and filled with foam. Many of these appendages have suffered damage over time, whether from improper blocking, water infiltration, or other structural failure. In one case, as documented by Joe Henson here on this forum, the fiberglass side of the false keel came loose and could be peeled away. This is an extreme case, but most false keel-fitted Triton owners have had to deal with some form of damage during restoration, or possibly afterwards.

You ought to check out Joe's pictures at this link. They show the keelbolts clearly (which are in great shape).

http://home.earthlink.net/~jrhenson2/id6.html

And here's a link to the problems I had with my false keel and the repairs thereunto:

http://www.triton381.com/projects/resto ... sekeel.htm

There's nothing wrong with internally ballasted Tritons, so don't let the type of ballast sway you if you look at two or more different boats. I wouldn't.

Oh, and welcome to the forum!

[Harry James]

And a further note, all WC Triton's had encapsulated keels, so you can have a number earlier than 382 that is encapsulated.

[Tim]

And a further note, all WC Triton's had encapsulated keels, so you can have a number earlier than 382 that is encapsulated.

Do the west coast boats have any numbers that high?

[Harry James]

I think 393 is the last WC Triton but I surely wouldn't bet money on it. I wouldn't bet money on any Triton "fact". I was just commenting that WC Triton's were an exception to your statement that Triton's had external keels up to and including #381. I probably wasn't clear, happens all the time.

[Allen]

There is some overlap in hull numbers between EC and WC boats, so Tim may be correct since he was referring to Pearson boats, not Aeromarine. The one thing you can count on is that you can't count on much with regard to Tritons. ;)

[jollyboat]

Scott,

As I understand it you have your hand in older boats already and so to this point my advise is most likely known. In that I am currently in the middle of putting to rights Triton 466 and having already gone through the same trials on Triton 346 I strongly suggest you consider the following.

1. Search the market for boats that are currently commissioned and being frequently used/cared for.

2. Stay away from 'abandoned' or left to rot boats unless you find one that the current owners or those in power to do so will sell the boat for a dollar. Seriously - look at some of the project boat photos that some of us have posted and also read how much it costs to rebuild a Triton - for example.

3. Spending between 6500- 9000 thousand dollars today will save you nearly double or more than that tommorow.

4. Whatever ever boat you decide to buy, Triton, Alberg, Tripp, whatever - have the boat surveyed and approach the sellers of the boat with a reasonable reduction in price if the survey calls for it. Knowledge is power. This will require the boat to be hauled but a survey will be well worth your while. Better to pay a few hundred today than thousands the next. Survey and hauling fees are at times split with the sellers as well, as even if you don't buy 'that boat' the sellers will then have some useful information too.

Good Luck with the search

[bcooke]

Do the west coast boats have any numbers that high?

My incomplete list shows #447 and 450 as being reported as West Coast built. Of course that doesn't mean they were but someone thinks they were.

Bill Bell, wrote that #393 was the highest west coast built Triton and that somewhere around there the Pearsons decided they could build a cheaper boat in Bristol even when the trucking costs were factored in.

Just adding my little bit of Triton lore.

-Britton