hi all,
my bakelite mast head sheave is chipped around the edges and i would like to replace.
any ideas?
rebuild the exact same 6.5" O.D./ 0.5" I.D. sheave?
out of plastic?
out of aluminum?
re-do the system for 2 sheaves?
right now, i am planning on turning an identical replacement out of aluminum, but i just thought i would throw it out there to see if anybody has any ideas on the topic.
thanks,
carter
Mast Head Sheave on my Triton
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- Rough Carpentry Apprentice
- Posts: 54
- Joined: Wed Sep 23, 2009 9:57 am
- Boat Name: Hali'a
- Boat Type: Pearson Triton #345
- Location: Bristol, RI
Re: Mast Head Sheave on my Triton
It sounds like you will probably make your own, but just in case you are interested, I have heard good things about Zephyrwerks, who make sheaves:
http://zephyrwerks.com/
http://zephyrwerks.com/
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- Rough Carpentry Apprentice
- Posts: 54
- Joined: Wed Sep 23, 2009 9:57 am
- Boat Name: Hali'a
- Boat Type: Pearson Triton #345
- Location: Bristol, RI
Re: Mast Head Sheave on my Triton
ooh. them do look nice...
$100.
will go the self-made route this time. I think.
thanks!
c.
$100.
will go the self-made route this time. I think.
thanks!
c.
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- Boat Obsession Medal Finalist
- Posts: 684
- Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 6:28 pm
- Location: Beaufort, North Carolina
- Contact:
Re: Mast Head Sheave on my Triton
I'm going phenolic, like the old one. Phenolic is pretty much bomb proof... On my mast the axle was just a bolt with a lock nut on one side. No compression tubes. The side plates of the sheave were just two pieces of 1/8th inch aluminum held apart by a pin and a cotter key... Very basic, but hey... it worked for 50 years.
Order an offcut through a plastic distributor rather than trying to buy it at retail... saves some cash.
I'm figuring a circle cutting guide on router to get a round sheave. Mine uses a 1/8th inch pin to rotate on. I'd drill the hole on a drill press, and use it as the pilot hole to step it up to the correct size for the axle.
Then building a jig hold the blank vertically on a bolt between two pieces of 3/4 inch plywood with a cleat on each side, and screwing the router base down to another piece of 3/4 on top. Clamp the top in place and pick up on the centerline of the sheave. Then just fire up the router with a ball endmill the right size for your rope halyard...
Fire up the router, rotate... stops taking material shut it back down and lower the cutter.
A 45 degree endmill would do the trick if you are wanting to stay with a wire halyard.
Thats my two cents. For me it'd save driving 8 hours round trip to my folks machine shop. It'd be more accurate with a cnc mill, and turning the groove on a lathe... but big deal, its a masthead sheave.
Zach
Edited because I can't spell.
Order an offcut through a plastic distributor rather than trying to buy it at retail... saves some cash.
I'm figuring a circle cutting guide on router to get a round sheave. Mine uses a 1/8th inch pin to rotate on. I'd drill the hole on a drill press, and use it as the pilot hole to step it up to the correct size for the axle.
Then building a jig hold the blank vertically on a bolt between two pieces of 3/4 inch plywood with a cleat on each side, and screwing the router base down to another piece of 3/4 on top. Clamp the top in place and pick up on the centerline of the sheave. Then just fire up the router with a ball endmill the right size for your rope halyard...
Fire up the router, rotate... stops taking material shut it back down and lower the cutter.
A 45 degree endmill would do the trick if you are wanting to stay with a wire halyard.
Thats my two cents. For me it'd save driving 8 hours round trip to my folks machine shop. It'd be more accurate with a cnc mill, and turning the groove on a lathe... but big deal, its a masthead sheave.
Zach
Edited because I can't spell.
1961 Pearson Triton
http://pylasteki.blogspot.com/
1942 Coast Guard Cutter - Rebuild
http://83footernoel.blogspot.com/
http://pylasteki.blogspot.com/
1942 Coast Guard Cutter - Rebuild
http://83footernoel.blogspot.com/