Clear Finish over Epoxy or Wood

[Quetzalsailor]

I'm closing in on the time for deciding what kind and brand of clear finish to apply to bare wood or wood which has been coated out in West System's 105 epoxy/ 207 hardener. Most interior and exterior hull surfaces are coated out with the West. I'm likely to leave the underside of the deck and the deck structure in bare 105/207 (not much sun there, and too hard to do after the deck's on). I'm likely to do the top of the deck, coamings, spray shield and rubrails in clear finish. Besides being a pain to get the epoxy suitably smooth, ease of repair down the line is my reason for clear finish alone. The boat will live in the garage or under cover most of the time.

So I'd like some good, firm prejudices and experiences from you for choosing a finish. Considerations include: longevity/cost; toughness; number of coats; brushability; preparation between coats; color effects over time between coated and bare wood; repairability. (I had imagined that an ordinary decent quality gloss spar varnish would be the choice, but the System 3 advertisement in the current WoodenBoat was attractive.)

Project is the Flying Dutchman restoration that I've been working on since 2001.

[heartofgold]

I am also looking to System 3's clear waterbased LPU for several upcoming projects. I am looking forward to what everyone else has to say. I will be ordering some in the next month to use soon....

[cmartin]

I'm very happy with Interlux Schooner varnish. Not my favorite thing in the world to do, but it sure looks nice after a few coats.

I bet everyone has their own preference.

[preserved_killick]

For this past season, on some of my exterior wood I used System 3's clear waterbased LPU over West 207, with mixed results. On my handrails, I really poured the stuff on. Thick coats. I can't remember but might have as many as six coats of LPU over 207 and those look pretty good still.

On my toerails and combing boards I have a couple thick layers of epoxy, then at least three coats of the LPU and the finish is worn through to bare wood in a few spots. Not worn by abrasion, since in many places the surfaces see no wear, but evaporated in the UV.

I had big hopes for the LPU. It goes on easy, but does not seem hold up to UV radiation, even in the UV of Maine's wettest summer ever!

Inside the boat is different, I used LPU on the cabin stairs, which saw lots of use and they are holding up great.

Sadly, plain varnish has held up the best.

-Jeff

[Triton 185]

Hello,

My comment is for the interior and previously unfinished wood. I recommend tung oil. I like to apply 5 or 6 coats. For the last coats, I wet sand with the oil and the resulting paste filler will provide an even low sheen finish. In general, tung oil is a low luster, durable, and reparable finish. It is also availalbe with UV inhibitive properties.

There are some that think an oil finish is overly time consuming to apply. (it is not so bad if you are aggressive about slathering it on and wiping it off before it begins to tack) I agree it takes more time to apply initially....but it requires much less maintainance over time and it is easier to repair than other interior wood finishes.

Good luck with your project!

[Tim]

Sadly, plain varnish has held up the best.

Why is that sad?

[preserved_killick]

Sadly, plain varnish has held up the best.

Why is that sad?

I guess I find varnish fussy in a way that I don't enjoy. The LPU goes on quick, I could do three coats a day, six coats in two days without sanding anything. I had hoped that through the marvel of modern chemistry we'd all be free from varnishing and would have years of trouble free brightwork!

Looks like I'll be varnishing this winter.

[Tim]

Funny how the shortcuts and marketing miracles rarely work out.

[Hirilondë]

Several companies claim to have developed clear materials capable of petrifying wood. I think all they have accomplished is to have developed a product that makes money and causes excess work down the line when the purchaser realizes it doesn't work and has to figure out how to get the material off. Science has definitely made life easier in many ways, but when it comes to bright shiny wood outdoors you just have to pay on a regular basis to keep it. (pay implies time and/or money)

[georgefmys]

There is a product out there I've had lots of success with that helps with some of the sadness-inducing aspects of brightwork application and maintenance. It's called Bristol Finish, their website has good info...I can testify to it's ease of use,excellent appearance[just like glossy varnish], and reasonable longevity.

[Hirilondë]

Bristol Finish does seem to stand up better than varnish over the course of a season. It has 2 serious negative properties in my opinion though. First of all, it uses isocyanates to achieve its shine. These are known and serious carcinogens. It is also known to promote central nervous system damage. On top of the health issue it is very difficult to remove when it comes time to deal with break down. Yes, this may be a few seasons, but it will happen. I don't think the temporary longevity is worth either, never mind both of these negative aspects.

Some day they may invent the really long term clear finish worthy of use on wood. I don't think they have yet.