white colored epoxy instead of paint

[deckhand]

After reading the post about the Bilgekote and realizing that I'm in somewhat of a similar position (my bilge is very much RAW at this point) I had an idea. Why not combine cheap pigments and epoxy for what I can only imagine would be the ultimate bilge sealing paint? There's no UV issues here (it would be in the bilge and under the sole or behind cabinetry) and I can't imagine a better chemical/moisture/mess/stain barrier. A trawler guy told me that all he uses in his bilges is 2 part paints because he always has some sort of fuel issue and it protects well.

I did the rough math and if you were to buy the 5 gallon resin kit and a 32 oz of pigment it works out to roughly $34 per gallon of "paint". Heck if you want to be really picky and put it all together with shipping it still only comes out to $42 a gallon. Bilge coat is almost twice that and I think there are hazard fees (no?)

Come to think of it most of us already have the epoxy so why not just buy some of that nice cheap pigment.

I'm thinking mix up a quart with a medium hardener, add a tiny bit of thiner (xylol probably) if needed and brush or even roll the goop on. If you have the scuba equipment, can you spray epoxy?

[Hirilondë]

I have used white pigmented epoxy to seal plywood shelves and mounting brackets for bilge and engine room areas. The biggest problem using the stuff as a coating is that it is hard to spread out and will continue to drool for hours after application. On large surfaces for which you have easy access, one can keep rolling until it is evenly distributed, but in the bilge this will be difficult. But then again maybe a few runs won't bother you? I would be leery of using any thinners, choosing a thin epoxy would be better. The new 2-part paints may adhere better to less than optimally prepared surfaces?

I'm trying to play devil's advocate here but having a hard time.

[Tim]

Bilgekote works great, is easy to apply even with less than perfect prep, looks good, and holds up extremely well.

Why look for a better mousetrap?

[Tim]

I should add that Bilgekote is an epoxy-based paint, which is one reason it's so costly...and also why it works so well.

[deckhand]

bilge coat isn't really an epoxy, you can't have a one part epoxy. It's like calling single part urethane and linear urethanes equal. I just thought using raw epoxy would be a cost effective way to get a nice hard, cheap bilge paint. I can see how the "runs" could be an issue, but it'll do a test first.

[Tim]

Yes, you're right. My mistake.

[dasein668]

I did the rough math and if you were to buy the 5 gallon resin kit and a 32 oz of pigment it works out to roughly $34 per gallon of "paint". Heck if you want to be really picky and put it all together with shipping it still only comes out to $42 a gallon. Bilge coat is almost twice that and I think there are hazard fees (no?)

It's 42/gallon, but you have to buy 265 worth of epoxy (plus shipping). I'd rather go down to my local boat store and spend 80 bucks on a one-part paint that I know for a fact will apply easily and not have to deal with a 3-part system with pot-life concerns. But other's mileage may vary...

[Figment]

Why not gelcoat?

[jollyboat]

This appears to be 'barks up the wrong tree'. Our bilges, though often will see some water at some time are not supposed to hold water for prolonged periods of time. It is not so much what is used in the bilge to seal it - it is to eliminate as much water infiltration as possible and remove what water that does make its way into the bilge as soon as possible. On 346, except for drips out of the stuffing box while the engine was running and shaft turning - through very concerted efforts - my bilge was kept dry. Before epoxy is used in the the bilge, try it on repairing the deck and re-bed deck fittings. Small amounts of water in the bilge for short periods of time (for cleaning for example) is the best approach. If this is the approach and a bilge paint is applied too - well so much the better and it makes cleaning easy too.