Let's say that "hypothetically" someone (who clearly didn't know what they were doing) was really dumb and managed to get overspray on their nice Willson supplied air face mask, since they neglected to purchase and apply one of those plastic protectors designed to prevent this very occurrence.
Let's say also that solvents don't seem to touch the stuff, which just might be LPU.
Would anyone have suggestions that this poor, uneducated soul might try to successfully remove this hypothetical (ahem) overspray?
Cleaning Face Shield
- Tim
- Shipwright Extraordinaire
- Posts: 5708
- Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2003 6:39 pm
- Boat Name: Glissando
- Boat Type: Pearson Triton
- Location: Whitefield, ME
- Contact:
Cleaning Face Shield
---------------------------------------------------
Forum Founder--No Longer Participating
Forum Founder--No Longer Participating
-
- Damned Because It's All Connected
- Posts: 2846
- Joined: Tue Apr 08, 2003 9:32 am
- Boat Name: Triton
- Boat Type: Grand Banks 42
- Location: L.I. Sound
Well, as it stands now you're buying yourself a new lens, right? Nothing to lose by trying wacky things?
Rubbing compound. Think of it as 80 grit paper.
followed by superfine rubbing compound. 120 grit.
followed by softscrub. 220 grit.
followed by a "cleaner-wax". 400 grit.
Followed by actual wax.
The lens will always be juuuuust a little bit cloudy. This will drive you crazy and you'll buy yourself a new lens. At least you had an hour's entertainment along the way!
;P
Rubbing compound. Think of it as 80 grit paper.
followed by superfine rubbing compound. 120 grit.
followed by softscrub. 220 grit.
followed by a "cleaner-wax". 400 grit.
Followed by actual wax.
The lens will always be juuuuust a little bit cloudy. This will drive you crazy and you'll buy yourself a new lens. At least you had an hour's entertainment along the way!
;P
- Tim
- Shipwright Extraordinaire
- Posts: 5708
- Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2003 6:39 pm
- Boat Name: Glissando
- Boat Type: Pearson Triton
- Location: Whitefield, ME
- Contact:
Finesse-it and light hand buffing with a cloth worked quite well on the lens, but didn't remove everything. I don't have a wool pad on hand, but at least the Finesse-it removed the worse of the spray and allowed me to continue using the mask.
I didn't have the guts to try any of the more aggressive treatments, at least not with two boats worth of spraying ahead and an immediate need for a workable mask. Now that that's done, I might try some more on the lens.
A new lens (or entire mask if I can't find a lens, which so far evades me) will be required despite all that.
Any leads on suppliers for the now-discontinued Willson 6000 series supplied air mask (silicone) would be appreciated, should anyone know.
I didn't have the guts to try any of the more aggressive treatments, at least not with two boats worth of spraying ahead and an immediate need for a workable mask. Now that that's done, I might try some more on the lens.
A new lens (or entire mask if I can't find a lens, which so far evades me) will be required despite all that.
Any leads on suppliers for the now-discontinued Willson 6000 series supplied air mask (silicone) would be appreciated, should anyone know.
---------------------------------------------------
Forum Founder--No Longer Participating
Forum Founder--No Longer Participating
-
- Bottom Paint Application Technician
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 7:07 am
- Location: Noank, CT
Tim, Just checking through the tool area of this site for the first time. For scratches and stuff on my face shield I use a buffing wheel and fine compound. You can polish out some pretty bad scratches in a short amount of time. It would definitly take away a bit of overspray, Steve.
Steve
S/V RAVEN
Cape Dory 30 cutter
Noank, CT
S/V RAVEN
Cape Dory 30 cutter
Noank, CT
- Ceasar Choppy
- Boat Obsession Medal Finalist
- Posts: 622
- Joined: Thu Mar 09, 2006 11:05 am
- Location: Port Starboard, MD
I think even Flitz would work. There are other more exotic rubbing compounds too. I've used Flitz on old sun glasses and it seems to work OK. The FinessIT II I think would be your final step as that stuff is finer than fine. Really need to get high speed with a buffing wheel too.
Theoretically, the LPU shouldn't stick too badly to the plastic-- think epoxy in a plastic mixing cup... but the plastic may be too rigid and I may not know what the hell I'm talking about.
Theoretically, the LPU shouldn't stick too badly to the plastic-- think epoxy in a plastic mixing cup... but the plastic may be too rigid and I may not know what the hell I'm talking about.
-
- Candidate for Boat-Obsession Medal
- Posts: 351
- Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2004 1:54 pm
- Location: Oakland California
- Contact:
hey tim I have found this stuff to be helpful. Novus # 1
http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=113&
r
http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=113&
r
-
- Boat Obsession Medal Finalist
- Posts: 684
- Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 6:28 pm
- Location: Beaufort, North Carolina
- Contact:
Go to the auto parts store and get a clay bar for automotive detailing. Use soapy water and rub it until it comes off. It works for light overspray, if you really laid it on gotta go for more destructive methods.
A blue or white plastic scrubber sponge, again with soapy water. Work in straight lines, not circles... circles catch light and cause haze, straight line scratches are harder to see. The hit it with the polish below.
Mequires makes a plastic polish for headlights/tailight lenses that is awsome. I use it on my face mask for metal grinding... goes clear in a few minutes work. It also works on tailights, and stuff with a vinyl coat that nothing else will touch.
I wouldn't wax anything you want to see through, because wax in small scratches catches light and makes things go funny... unless its a shower door, then its fair game!
If you do buff it, keep the lens cool! If the plastic has a film it'll cloud up with heat... and when that happens all you can do is get out a torch and hold the plastic up to it and flame polish it. (Hard... if its got a vinyl coat it goes grey/white the second the flame gets near it!)
A blue or white plastic scrubber sponge, again with soapy water. Work in straight lines, not circles... circles catch light and cause haze, straight line scratches are harder to see. The hit it with the polish below.
Mequires makes a plastic polish for headlights/tailight lenses that is awsome. I use it on my face mask for metal grinding... goes clear in a few minutes work. It also works on tailights, and stuff with a vinyl coat that nothing else will touch.
I wouldn't wax anything you want to see through, because wax in small scratches catches light and makes things go funny... unless its a shower door, then its fair game!
If you do buff it, keep the lens cool! If the plastic has a film it'll cloud up with heat... and when that happens all you can do is get out a torch and hold the plastic up to it and flame polish it. (Hard... if its got a vinyl coat it goes grey/white the second the flame gets near it!)
I just wore a full-face respirator for the first time last week (wow, what a relief compared to the half respirator + goggles = itchy fiberglass dust in all the gaps), so I haven't scratched it (yet).
I do have the sacrificial face-shield covers, but this is one of those posts I read and instantly think "I'll be searching for this in the archives one of these days...."
R.
I do have the sacrificial face-shield covers, but this is one of those posts I read and instantly think "I'll be searching for this in the archives one of these days...."
R.