I am setting up a makeshift shop for building glued lapstrake prams (Nutshells) in my basement and a 12' John Brooks dinghy next summer (set up in my garage). The power tools I would eventually like to have are the usual dream tools but this winter for my Nutshell Pram i need to go bare minimum for cutting planks and parts for the boat and for finishing. I have all the hand tools I need; the power tools I am considering are:
1) an excellent jigsaw for cutting planks and the like
2) a small stationary, bench top belt sander (or portable power belt sander inverted on my bench)
3) a router with router table
4) a small circular saw
My questions are
1) can a jigsaw do well in cutting at angles? Often I need to cut bevels on the sides of the transom(s) on prams
2) should I go with a dedicated benchtop belt sander or a typical hand held one?
3) Could I do without a router...it seems ideal for trimming planks and flush cutting for various parts
4) the circular saw seems better for making jigs in terms of speed and power as well as rough cutting planks
Any brand recommendations would be awesome in addition to peoples' ratings as to how essential each is for building small boats. I have all the hand tools one could need.
Cheers,
Clint
Minimum shop power tools for building dinghies
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tartan30cirrus
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Minimum shop power tools for building dinghies
Clinton B. Chase
Tartan 30 #388 Cirrus
Portland, Maine
Tartan 30 #388 Cirrus
Portland, Maine
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CharlieJ
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some thoughts from my point of view.
1 - the jigsaw. Yes- you can cut bevels but I'd just as soon use a block plane. Also- the circular saw works very well for cutting curved planks, even with bevels on thin plywood. You can cut curves on 1 1/2 timbers as long as they are soft curves
2- I don't find a lot of use for a belt sander of any sort. I have one but seldom use it in boat building.
3 - A router is indespensable, the router table may be useful but I don't have one in my shop. I find that the hand held router is much more useful, and I really very seldom find a use for plunge router. The router that gets used the absolute MOST out of the three I have is my small trim router. I can use it in tight spots and also one handed.
4 - As I said earlier- a circular saw can be used to cut curves such as planks for a lapstrake boat. You can also mount one upside down in a sheet of ply and use it like a small table saw.
The one non-portable tool I find completely indespensable for boats is my bandsaws. I keep one of them VERY close to my work bench and use it frequently. If you can find the space at least a 12 inch one would be nice, but the largest you can get is better. This tool also will cut very nice bevels and can even be modified to cut winding bevels, with someone to assist you.
As far as recommending brands I'm not gonna do that. I'll tell you I have had years of use from Porter Cable, Bosch, Makitas. My small band saw is an OLD Craftsman. They USED to be pretty good tools.
There IS one other tool you absolutely HAVE to have- that's a GOOD shop vac :) I have a large one, but I also frequently use a small hand held Dirt Devil with the belt removed and the hose permanently installed, for use INSIDE boats.
one other small tool I'd recommend is a heavy duty ROS machine like the PC 7335. I use that almost every day in the shop.
1 - the jigsaw. Yes- you can cut bevels but I'd just as soon use a block plane. Also- the circular saw works very well for cutting curved planks, even with bevels on thin plywood. You can cut curves on 1 1/2 timbers as long as they are soft curves
2- I don't find a lot of use for a belt sander of any sort. I have one but seldom use it in boat building.
3 - A router is indespensable, the router table may be useful but I don't have one in my shop. I find that the hand held router is much more useful, and I really very seldom find a use for plunge router. The router that gets used the absolute MOST out of the three I have is my small trim router. I can use it in tight spots and also one handed.
4 - As I said earlier- a circular saw can be used to cut curves such as planks for a lapstrake boat. You can also mount one upside down in a sheet of ply and use it like a small table saw.
The one non-portable tool I find completely indespensable for boats is my bandsaws. I keep one of them VERY close to my work bench and use it frequently. If you can find the space at least a 12 inch one would be nice, but the largest you can get is better. This tool also will cut very nice bevels and can even be modified to cut winding bevels, with someone to assist you.
As far as recommending brands I'm not gonna do that. I'll tell you I have had years of use from Porter Cable, Bosch, Makitas. My small band saw is an OLD Craftsman. They USED to be pretty good tools.
There IS one other tool you absolutely HAVE to have- that's a GOOD shop vac :) I have a large one, but I also frequently use a small hand held Dirt Devil with the belt removed and the hose permanently installed, for use INSIDE boats.
one other small tool I'd recommend is a heavy duty ROS machine like the PC 7335. I use that almost every day in the shop.
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tartan30cirrus
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great tips Charlie...for the jig saw I was considering using it to cut planks and the transoms for the Nutshell Pram (but the transome edges are angled/beveled at around 30-48 degrees...it sounds like, in your opinion, that a bandsaw would do better (the transom pieces are not that big...10-20 inches wide). I could fit these on a bandsaw, no? Hmmm...food dor thought...maybe find a 14" bandsaw used.
As far as a router, sounds like you are using a laminate trimmer....? Will that do well on 1/2"-3/4" plywood?
TX again.
Cheers,
Clint
As far as a router, sounds like you are using a laminate trimmer....? Will that do well on 1/2"-3/4" plywood?
TX again.
Cheers,
Clint
Clinton B. Chase
Tartan 30 #388 Cirrus
Portland, Maine
Tartan 30 #388 Cirrus
Portland, Maine
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CharlieJ
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Yeah- it's a trim router. I normally keep a 1/4 round over bit in it to ease edges, etc I also use a piloted straight trim bit to work edges. I usually don't use it on heavier ply- for that I've got a 1 hp fixed base router.
I OFTEN just cut square edges then use a block plane, but yes, you can usually get stuff like transoms in there. Sometimes you have to mark on both sides so you can feed the waste through the throat, but you learn when to do that.
I've done a LOT of ripping on a 12 inch band saw. I built a 35 foot trimaran using a Craftsman 12 inch band saw, a jig saw and a circular saw and a router. We ripped 38 foot long stringers from 1 x 12 stock with that machine. Of course we did it outside and I had about 4 helpers, but we did it.
On my bigger one ( a 14 inch OLD, OLD Rockwell) I cut the taper on 20 foot masts too- that was fun !!
I OFTEN just cut square edges then use a block plane, but yes, you can usually get stuff like transoms in there. Sometimes you have to mark on both sides so you can feed the waste through the throat, but you learn when to do that.
I've done a LOT of ripping on a 12 inch band saw. I built a 35 foot trimaran using a Craftsman 12 inch band saw, a jig saw and a circular saw and a router. We ripped 38 foot long stringers from 1 x 12 stock with that machine. Of course we did it outside and I had about 4 helpers, but we did it.
On my bigger one ( a 14 inch OLD, OLD Rockwell) I cut the taper on 20 foot masts too- that was fun !!
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Tom Young
- Skilled Systems Installer
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I would think you would want a table saw first Clint,
even a small cheaper one would be handy for cutting the transom bevels, ripping the stock for the laminated frames, ripping seats etc. You'll always have a use for it even after you get a good one to replace it. I agree though, a bandsaw is the most pleasant tool made.
I think I cut the planks with a skil saw. Good tools but it's hard to get a finish cut with one(I've used them for decades) but it can be done. The Nutshell pram doesn't require too many tools, a good sharp block plane(and the ability to sharpen the blade often) was the most important as I remember. Most important that is,...AFTER having an opening to get the finished boat out-I did the 9'6" in a basement-it just barely went out a standard 4' x6' bulkhead without removing the stairs, just barely.
I think I cut the planks with a skil saw. Good tools but it's hard to get a finish cut with one(I've used them for decades) but it can be done. The Nutshell pram doesn't require too many tools, a good sharp block plane(and the ability to sharpen the blade often) was the most important as I remember. Most important that is,...AFTER having an opening to get the finished boat out-I did the 9'6" in a basement-it just barely went out a standard 4' x6' bulkhead without removing the stairs, just barely.
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Tim
- Shipwright Extraordinaire
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A bandsaw is almost certainly better for most of the cuts that a jigsaw might do, but the jigsaw does have the advantage of being more portable.
It's nice to have both, and hard to say which is the right one for you to acquire first. Because of its overall versatility, despite its drawbacks, I might say that the jigsaw makes the most sense to buy first, but if the portability of the tool is less important, you'll get better cuts with the bandsaw. Of course a bandsaw costs quite a bit more, if you get one that's worth buying. Used tools can be great, but you have to find the right one.
I had a jigsaw long before I had a bandsaw. I now have a bandsaw, but have yet to tune it up and make it ready for use; it sits in a corner of the shop awaiting attention (soon!).
If the only stationary tool you have is a bandsaw, you'll find ways to use it for all sorts of cuts, as Charlie mentioned. I started out with a tablesaw first, so that's still the most versatile stationary tool for me. We had a discussion somewhere here a while back about the bandsaw vs. tablesaw choice, if you had to choose only one. You might search for that, FWIW. There is not one right answer; there are merits to each side of the equation. Mostly, it comes down to what tool one ended up with first, and how comfortable one is with that certain tool.
Still, I look forward to getting my bandsaw up and running properly--it's an older so-so Craftsman that was in storage for some time, so it's currently pretty rough.
As far as jigsaws go, I'm a fan of the barrel-handle Bosch saw.
On your other questions: a router is indespensible. Yes, you can do most of the same jobs with some other tool or another, but few will be as quick, efficient, and accurate as the router. If you can buy only one, I'd recommend considering a good versatile mid-range unit like the Porter Cable 690, (1-1/2hp) which I have and absolutely love. Plunge capability is not critical for your main router, but you can often find the 690 in a kit that includes a fixed base as well as a plunge base--the best of all worlds.
The laminate trimmer is also handy, and has myriad uses. They are great for tight spots, and are lightweight and easy to handle. Still, I'd get a decent 1-1/2 hp router with 1/2" collet first, as it is overall more versatile--unless you know that you only have need for the smaller trim router. Again, having one of each is the best solution. There are definite limitations to the capabilities of a laminate trimmer as your sole machine, whereas a slightly larger router can be more easily pressed into service for lighter-duty work.
It's nice to have both, and hard to say which is the right one for you to acquire first. Because of its overall versatility, despite its drawbacks, I might say that the jigsaw makes the most sense to buy first, but if the portability of the tool is less important, you'll get better cuts with the bandsaw. Of course a bandsaw costs quite a bit more, if you get one that's worth buying. Used tools can be great, but you have to find the right one.
I had a jigsaw long before I had a bandsaw. I now have a bandsaw, but have yet to tune it up and make it ready for use; it sits in a corner of the shop awaiting attention (soon!).
If the only stationary tool you have is a bandsaw, you'll find ways to use it for all sorts of cuts, as Charlie mentioned. I started out with a tablesaw first, so that's still the most versatile stationary tool for me. We had a discussion somewhere here a while back about the bandsaw vs. tablesaw choice, if you had to choose only one. You might search for that, FWIW. There is not one right answer; there are merits to each side of the equation. Mostly, it comes down to what tool one ended up with first, and how comfortable one is with that certain tool.
Still, I look forward to getting my bandsaw up and running properly--it's an older so-so Craftsman that was in storage for some time, so it's currently pretty rough.
As far as jigsaws go, I'm a fan of the barrel-handle Bosch saw.
On your other questions: a router is indespensible. Yes, you can do most of the same jobs with some other tool or another, but few will be as quick, efficient, and accurate as the router. If you can buy only one, I'd recommend considering a good versatile mid-range unit like the Porter Cable 690, (1-1/2hp) which I have and absolutely love. Plunge capability is not critical for your main router, but you can often find the 690 in a kit that includes a fixed base as well as a plunge base--the best of all worlds.
The laminate trimmer is also handy, and has myriad uses. They are great for tight spots, and are lightweight and easy to handle. Still, I'd get a decent 1-1/2 hp router with 1/2" collet first, as it is overall more versatile--unless you know that you only have need for the smaller trim router. Again, having one of each is the best solution. There are definite limitations to the capabilities of a laminate trimmer as your sole machine, whereas a slightly larger router can be more easily pressed into service for lighter-duty work.
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Tim
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I just reread your question and have a couple more thoughts.
Belt sander: probably a portable one is your best bet, rather than a dedicated benchtop--at least to start. Remember that you can always press your portable sander into service as a stationary tool by placing it upside down on a bench, or, if need be, building a simple jig to hold it.
I'm about ready to look into a stationary sanding center, but it's taken me almost 20 years of messing around this way to bring me to this point. I don't use a belt sander that much, though there are occasional times when it's the only tool for the job.
Circular saw: these are good for so many things, including around-the-house stuff, if you ever do that sort of thing. Buy a good one and it'll last forever. I need to replace my old Makita 7-1/4", as it got dropped on its table years ago and is all torqued. I also have a Porter Cable 6-1/2" "Saw Boss", which is a great tool and is handier to use most of the time than the larger saw, unless you truly need the capability of the bigger blade.
I once made a table saw out of some plywood, with the circular saw mounted beneath. I didn't use it long--it scared me to death, but it worked. I soon bought a small portable 10" table saw, and later traded that for a stand-alone contractor's saw that has served me quite well for over 10 years, particularly once I upgraded the fence.
I'm ready now for a true cabinet saw, and expect to have one next year. But I digress.
Belt sander: probably a portable one is your best bet, rather than a dedicated benchtop--at least to start. Remember that you can always press your portable sander into service as a stationary tool by placing it upside down on a bench, or, if need be, building a simple jig to hold it.
I'm about ready to look into a stationary sanding center, but it's taken me almost 20 years of messing around this way to bring me to this point. I don't use a belt sander that much, though there are occasional times when it's the only tool for the job.
Circular saw: these are good for so many things, including around-the-house stuff, if you ever do that sort of thing. Buy a good one and it'll last forever. I need to replace my old Makita 7-1/4", as it got dropped on its table years ago and is all torqued. I also have a Porter Cable 6-1/2" "Saw Boss", which is a great tool and is handier to use most of the time than the larger saw, unless you truly need the capability of the bigger blade.
I once made a table saw out of some plywood, with the circular saw mounted beneath. I didn't use it long--it scared me to death, but it worked. I soon bought a small portable 10" table saw, and later traded that for a stand-alone contractor's saw that has served me quite well for over 10 years, particularly once I upgraded the fence.
I'm ready now for a true cabinet saw, and expect to have one next year. But I digress.
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tartan30cirrus
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Curmudgeon
- Deck Grunge Scrubber
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The most versatile power tool I own is my bandsaw, and like Charlie I have an older Craftsman 12". It cut all the frames for a round-bilge 36' aluminium cutter, and the 1/2" plate for the keel - without complaint. Awkward cuts and cuts on odd-shaped pieces are far easier on a bandsaw, and they're inherently safer than most other types of saws. The only real drawback is the size of the throat. Hands down, I think a bandsaw should be the first power tool in the shop.
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tartan30cirrus
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Yup...it is lookin' good that my Pop will be giving me his oldy but goody 14" Delta and buying new for himself...now all I need is a belt sander and I am set!
Any thoughts on how to ventilate a closed up basement in the winter? I have a window that doesn't open and a door that can open and let out fumes/in very cold air. What to do?
Cheers,
Clint
Any thoughts on how to ventilate a closed up basement in the winter? I have a window that doesn't open and a door that can open and let out fumes/in very cold air. What to do?
Cheers,
Clint
Clinton B. Chase
Tartan 30 #388 Cirrus
Portland, Maine
Tartan 30 #388 Cirrus
Portland, Maine
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CharlieJ
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LOL- Living down here on the South coast of Texas ( that's also a song title by the way) where there AREN'T any basements and very little winter, I certainly can't advise you there. *grin*
Do arange to keep fresh air coming in someway though. Unlike Polyester resins, Epoxy fumes aren't really bad smelling but they are bad enough and you DO need fresh air.
Do arange to keep fresh air coming in someway though. Unlike Polyester resins, Epoxy fumes aren't really bad smelling but they are bad enough and you DO need fresh air.
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Figment
- Damned Because It's All Connected
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I can think of lots of ways to do it, but they all involve making the house above feel rather drafty. Probably not the best way to foster domestic harmony.
It's an awkward solution, but howzabout this... remove the glass from that one window and use your tricky new jigsaw to make a plywood replacement that holds an exhaust fan in one part, and a fresh air intake duct in the other. Outside the house, you'll need to run another length of duct to prevent the intake and exhaust from defeating each other.
It's an awkward solution, but howzabout this... remove the glass from that one window and use your tricky new jigsaw to make a plywood replacement that holds an exhaust fan in one part, and a fresh air intake duct in the other. Outside the house, you'll need to run another length of duct to prevent the intake and exhaust from defeating each other.