The bow-frame boat barn/greenhouse style frame is quite popular for temporary (or nearly permanent) shops and boat barns. I'm sure one could come up with the proper arch and template on their own, but Stimson Marine has a template plan that is widely used in the industry:
http://www.by-the-sea.com/stimsonmarine/bowroof.html
These make a nice sturdy structure that should be plenty strong for snow loads, etc. If additional height is needed, knee walls can be added at the bottom to raise the height of the arch.
Tim
Bow-Frame Boat Barn
- Tim
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Here is a nice example of a home-built bow-frame structure. The boat is a 38' Tripp Javelin.
http://www.tritondaysailor.com/boatshedex2.htm
Tim
http://www.tritondaysailor.com/boatshedex2.htm
Tim
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These seem to have a really sound basic structure. I bet you could do well by replacing the plastic sheathing with something like that corrugated fiberglass panelling to create something even more durable. Obviously the cost would go up, but you wouldn't have to worry about UV degredation etc....
Nathan
dasein668.com
dasein668.com
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The Stimson Shed will probably be my "indoor" storage solution for the deck recore job this winter.
Tim, what was the ridge height of the shed you built for the Glissando restoration? Were you happy with that height, or would you have done it differently the second time?
How about width? I'm thinking 14' (at deck height) should be more than sufficient.... beam plus 3' per side.
Tim, what was the ridge height of the shed you built for the Glissando restoration? Were you happy with that height, or would you have done it differently the second time?
How about width? I'm thinking 14' (at deck height) should be more than sufficient.... beam plus 3' per side.
- Tim
- Shipwright Extraordinaire
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My sidewalls were 10' high, and the roof pitch was approximately 4:12, maybe even 3:12. (I'll leave the math to you...)
I could stand easily in the cockpit, but not on the foredeck. I did all my work from staging, so this was a minor inconvenience, height-wise. One has to compromise between the best height and the practicality of the building construction too. For a recore, there's little reason to stand on the decks, so the reduced height is OK. But not so much that you have to crab-walk if you want to go forward on deck. Stooping is OK. When in doubt, go higher and wider. In a boatyard, you probably will run into width problems, though.
14' of width at gunwale height should be fine. 3' of true clearance there is plenty. It's about what I had. If you can eke out another foot, do so.
I could stand easily in the cockpit, but not on the foredeck. I did all my work from staging, so this was a minor inconvenience, height-wise. One has to compromise between the best height and the practicality of the building construction too. For a recore, there's little reason to stand on the decks, so the reduced height is OK. But not so much that you have to crab-walk if you want to go forward on deck. Stooping is OK. When in doubt, go higher and wider. In a boatyard, you probably will run into width problems, though.
14' of width at gunwale height should be fine. 3' of true clearance there is plenty. It's about what I had. If you can eke out another foot, do so.
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