Toe Rail Varnish & Protection

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Charleston Rasmus
Bottom Paint Application Technician
Posts: 10
Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2023 8:36 pm
Boat Name: SV Allie Rose
Boat Type: Hallberg Rassy Rasmus 35'

Toe Rail Varnish & Protection

Post by Charleston Rasmus »

I love the look of teak toe rails when they have a mirror finish similar to that of grand piano. I don’t know what it is - maybe it’s my desire to live up to the “bring on another thousand” slogan - but I decided that I wanted to clean up and protect the teak toe rail on Allie Rose. Thus far, I’ve spent countless hours scraping the old varnish, and removing attached chocks and hardware, and am close to starting the process of actually varnishing. I’ve also spent countless hours researching, and have landed on the products I plan on using. I will update everyone with photos once finished, but wanted to share my intended plan of action incase anyone has feedback on more efficient methods I should be employing.

Varnish -

Step 1 - The toe rails and handrails need to have all varnish removed (use scraper and heat gun to assist). I’ve already got most of it off. All the chocks should be removed too (DONE). Thereafter, I'm sanding the entirety of the toe rail with 220 and an orbital sander.

Step 2 - Use Teak Cleaner and Teak Brightener (I've used YouTube to watch people doing this and follow instructions. The cleaners are expensive. I may need to do 2 rounds of the cleaner and brightener. I am NOT using the "third step" (oil).

Step 3 - Take note of any spots where substantial caulk is missing/removed once finished. Wipe down the entire toe rail with Aceatone. Liberally us acetone. Teak is a VERY oily wood. The acetone will help remove the oils.

Step 4 - Thereafter, tape painters tape on both the outside, and inside, of the toe rail. Apply a beed of 5200 around the toe rail as caulking to prevent wanter intrusion underneith. I was planning on using white as the color. I'm not sure if I should do this pre-or post steps 5-7 (the actual varnish).

Step 5 - I am going to use a product called “Awlwood”, 2 coats of the primer (I think I'll only need one quart), and 8 coats of the top coat in gloss (I'll need one gallon). The product is expensive and I can’t really afford it right now, so I've only picked up a quart of primer and a quart of the clear gloss for now. I plan on applying with a foam brush. I plan on using 330 with my orbital sander between coats, until the final two coats, where I'll wet sand with 800 grit between coats.

Questions: Foam brush ok? Caulk or varnish first, and is 5200 good? Any point to add 12" protection strips to prevent rope chafe, or no?

After getting some feedback on this, I'll reply with a new proposed plan of action and photos once I start, and thereafter finish, this process. There's a section of toe rail that needs replaced on the port side bow, which I've already removed, that I need to size and cut still too. Everything is a project. Everything takes longer, and costs more than expected.

Talk soon - Allie Rose
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atomvoyager
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Re: Toe Rail Varnish & Protection

Post by atomvoyager »

Unless the wood is already smooth I usually hit it first with 120 then 220.
I use black polysulfide Lifecaulk to seal the edges and only after all varnish and paint is finished. I've found 5200 and other white adhesive/sealants don't hold up well to UV.
You don't need teak cleaner if you are stripping old varnish and sanding but I guess it doesn't hurt.
The Awlwood application sheet or tech support should tell you whether to use a foam brush. First coat is easy with a foam brush because most of it soaks into the wood. After that I usually use natural bristle because it's hard to get an even coat with foam as it loads up.
After years of maintaining all sorts of varnish and clear coats on teak, I've given up and generally use a lower maintenance low gloss Cetol Natural Teak. Whatever you use, expect mooring lines to chafe through the finish unless they don't lay against it so yes generally rubbing strakes will help that.
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