Bathroom Remodel...

This is the place to post your ideas, thoughts, questions and comments as relates to general boatbuilding and reconstruction techniques and procedures (i.e. recoring, epoxy, fiberglass, wood, etc.)
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Charleston Rasmus
Bottom Paint Application Technician
Posts: 10
Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2023 8:36 pm
Boat Name: SV Allie Rose
Boat Type: Hallberg Rassy Rasmus 35'

Bathroom Remodel...

Post by Charleston Rasmus »

Allie Rose here, a beautiful 1972 Hallberg Rassy Rasmus.

The bathroom has been striped down and rebuilt with IPE wood. I've attached photos for anyone whose interested in seeing. Note - these photos are prior to the NFM windows that I installed, so it continues to look even better every day! I'll update these photos once the bathroom remodel is completely finished, but first, a few quick questions.

I had 40' of custom made 1/4" IPE wood trim made. It was ridiculously priced and totally unnecessary. If I have any extra and anyone would like it, I'm happy to give it away to another broke sailor if you Venmo me the cost of shipping.

Anyway - the questions:

1) IPE is VERY hard wood. I'm sure I could screw it in, but I'm also contemplating just using 4200 to secure it to the corners. Is that a terrible idea? Should I just find short enough fasteners and screw it in?
2) IPE oil is VERY hard for me to come by for some reason. Is Teak oil a reasonable substitute?
3) I've run plumbing for hot and cold water to the bathroom already. I have NOT, however, purchased an actual sink/shower head combo fixture to instal in the sink. As you can see, there is one output spot. Does anyone have a recommendation for what they would install?

My goal is to finish trimming out the bathroom and installing the sink fixture, and thereafter need to figure out how to use the same thru-hull that is use for the sump pump that drains the shower pan as the intake for a saltwater spray down hose on the deck.... That's a project for another day, and I'll post photos when the time allows. So yeah, for now, just a few questions about trim and fixtures. More questions about the thru hull and multiway input/output within in the near future. Just wanted to post photos today I guess.

Thank you!
Attachments
Bathroom1.jpeg
Bathroom 6.jpeg
Bathroom 5.jpeg
Bathroom 4.jpeg
Bathroom 3.jpeg
Bathroom 2.jpeg
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atomvoyager
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Re: Bathroom Remodel...

Post by atomvoyager »

You could glue it in but you need a way to secure it in position while the adhesive dries and in general it's better to have it fastened and removable, if possible. Doesn't matter how hard the wood it since you would drill the screw holes large enough to pass thru the Ipe and then have pilot holes of the right size for screws to go into the backing surface. Easier to countersunk the holes for flat head brass screws than to cut Ipe bungs or wood plugs. If the backing surface is fiberglass or hard wood then drive in stainless screws first to cut the threads and then replace it with the brass ones so not to break them.

Any wood oil should work since it is inside and not exposed to UV.

Is the head sink having a hot/cold pressure water system or foot pump? If foot pump then you only need a spout from pump to sink. Otherwise, you'll need to get some household fixtures that fit what looks like that household sink. Or if the shower head is to be integrated into the sink spout with a retracting hose then maybe a marine version is best? I'm not aware of the source exactly because I only install simple plumbing systems and avoid pressure water systems. Drainage can go to the sump box that drains the shower pan if you are trying to avoid another seacock. All that wood with open joints doesn't look suitable for a shower in the same area but I guess you have that sorted out?
Charleston Rasmus
Bottom Paint Application Technician
Posts: 10
Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2023 8:36 pm
Boat Name: SV Allie Rose
Boat Type: Hallberg Rassy Rasmus 35'

Re: Bathroom Remodel...

Post by Charleston Rasmus »

A few updates:

1. I've plumbed the salt water intake for the toilet flush to the same thru hull as the drain for the sink. I've tested this and it works well. By doing so, I also have the advantage of being able to close the thru hull, and while running the sink, flush the toilet with fresh water. There are several situations, such as an extended time away, where I could see an advantage to having fresh water flush ability. Similarly, I'd still be able to flush the toilet should the plumbing from the thru hull ever become leaky, or even flush the sink directly into the toilet if I didn't want the sink to go out into the ocean.

2. I've installed a residential style faucet, with both hot and cold taps, onto the sink. It works, and looks, great.

3. I have NOT installed any type of a shower in this room. Because I believe that taking a shower within the inside of the vessel would be a rare occasion for me, and because the NFM windows open, once I install an "aft" shower, likely in the cockpit, I could always run the hose from there all the way over to the window and just mount an attachment point on the wall. It'd be kinda a weird set up, but that's what I'm thinking would be best. Alternatively, I could always tap into the lines that supply the sink and install an interior shower, but I likewise think that it's not best idea for an interior shower with all the gaps in the wood.

4. I have NOT installed the quarter round. I'm just going to wait until I can get some help from a friend of mine who has more experience with finish carpentry, to help me get started. The stainless steel first, brass second, is something I already do. Saves me hundreds of screws.

Two quick questions:

1. There is a sump pump that pulls water from the "shower pan" should I ever have water ingress, or actually use the bathroom as a shower, that is plumbed to the same thru hull that I plan on using for the salt water spray down. Is this alright? Or does the thru hull need to be above the water line for the drain? I don't see why, but many others have shared that I am doing it incorrectly the way I have it set up.

2. It may seem silly, but is there a good mirror that you'd recommend to install? I want something that wont break that would be easy to install. I don't care about the size, but don't want to just 5200 a square of mirror directly onto the wall....
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atomvoyager
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Re: Bathroom Remodel...

Post by atomvoyager »

The shower sump pump is normally installed in a box that has several inlets and one outlet but I guess it doesn't have to be that way. But if you have a bilge pump taking the shower drain into a T to the seacock, the deck washdown pump might suck air through the shower pump rather than the seacock unless you have a shut-off valve on it. And then you might not be able to install a vented loop. So might be best to run the shower sump pump direct to a vented loop and then exit to a thru-hull above the waterline.

https://www.amazon.com/Rule-Shower-Drai ... ref=sr_1_5?

I don't know of an unbreakable mirror other than using a piece of highly polished stainless steel sheet metal as a mirror. Not as reflective as mirrored glass but should be good enough and you can have a small portable glass mirror in a cabinet for when you really need to see detail.
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