Deck Painting

This is the place to post your ideas, thoughts, questions and comments as relates to general boatbuilding and reconstruction techniques and procedures (i.e. recoring, epoxy, fiberglass, wood, etc.)
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Charleston Rasmus
Bottom Paint Application Technician
Posts: 10
Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2023 8:36 pm
Boat Name: SV Allie Rose
Boat Type: Hallberg Rassy Rasmus 35'

Deck Painting

Post by Charleston Rasmus »

Hello Everyone!

I am the proud owner of a 1972 Hallberg Rassy Rasmus, and currently (like many of you presumedly are too) working on about 1,000 projects at once. One project that I can't seem to find the best solution for, is the products and methods to repaint the deck of the boat.

My current plan is the following:
1. Use a pressure washer to remove all areas of the gelcoat that are flaking off, until they can't be chipped up anymore.
2. Remove all deck fittings that are easily removable, namely the window flanges on my NFM portlights (the greatest purchase I've ever made in terms of function, beauty, and overall fitness of the vessel).
3. Sand the entirety of the deck with 60 grit sandpaper, primarily with my 6" orbital sander and dremmel for those areas that are tighter to reach.
4. Give the deck a final wash with Simple Green, and thereafter apply a "dewaxer". Product TBD.
5. Roll on paint to all smooth areas of the deck. Paint product TBD (see questions below).
6. Roll on KiwiGrip for all non skid areas (I'm estimating through my calculations that I'll need 7 liters, so I plan on purchasing 2 gallons. It comes in bags now, and Mr. Baldwin, AKA Atom Voyager, has a very informative youtube video on tricks he's used while applying it too).
7. Sit back and enjoy a NA beer while admiring my work (A recommendation I got from a friend of Bill).

My questions, in no particular order:
1. What product/method have you all used to "dewax" and prep the surface for paint?
2. What finishing paint have you used for the smooth surface of the deck?
3. I presume that it would be unnecessary to tape off the non-skid areas of the boat when applying the finishing paint to smooth surface of the deck, since I would just paint over it with kiwi grip thereafter anyway? What knap roller have you all used and had success with?
4. Anyone who has had experience with kiwi grip in the past, is white the best color to go with? Does grey look tacky?

This is my first post on Plastic Classics. I am very appreciative of your feedback on my proposed methods and products. I look forward to contributing more as time goes on and uploading photos of the project once I get underway! BOLO for additional posts here in the coming weeks for those of you with opinions that you want to share - lots of ongoing questions as I continue to learn the ins and outs of this up-fitting endeavor! Photos to be posted soon too, likely in other topics as I continue to ask questions from this knowledgeable community!

Talk soon,
SV North Star - soon to be "SV Allie Rose" - Charleston, SC
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atomvoyager
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Re: Deck Painting

Post by atomvoyager »

Welcome to the group.
I'm currently putting primer on and prepping to paint the decks on a Cape Dory 27 and 36. On the 27 I'm spraying Interlux Epoxy PrimeKote followed by Eggshell White Awlcraft 2000 on gloss trim areas with rolled Gray Kiwigrip for nonskid. On the CD36 because it is in a yard where we can't spray we applied the 3 coats of Primekote by roller and will roll and tip Alexseal Cloud White with Gray Kiwigrip. Alexseal has a roll additive we use to help leveling of roller stipple and brush marks. If conditions are perfect you can get away with roll only and no tipping. Tray a test panel day of painting to see how it goes - temps, humidity, wind, direct sun, reducer ratio, painter's technique all play a roll.

I'm assuming you plan to use two-part primer and paint rather than single part system such as Prekote primer and Brightsides polyurethane since they don't hold up well. But people who don't care that much or can't afford two-parts often go that way.

I've found the Redtree 1/4" short nap mohair roller available at West Marine and other places and good quality natural bristle brush works best.

60 grit is OK for nonskid but on gloss trim areas before primer I use 100-120 grit on gelcoat that's in good condition or 80 grit if needed to get it flat. Primer gets an initial sand with 220 followed by 320. Most paints need 320 sanding of primer but it takes too long to get the primer flat if you start with 320.

As you've seen in my video, the gray Kiwi is a light gray. It hides dirt better and will look better than white since it will be easier to keep clean and offers a nice neutral contrast to the typical off-white gloss trim areas. I might prefer a light beige or cream but the Kiwi cream color has a bit too much yellow for my taste. The other stock colors don't appeal to me. Custom tinting the white is possible but troublesome because the paint is so thick and in a bag like toothpaste and then may be hard to match the color if you need some maintenance touchup in future.

I haven't bothered to use "de-waxers" but several paint suppliers sell them and no reason you shouldn't use them. I just use acetone or denatured alcohol after a wash with any detergent.

I do mask the edge of the nonskid zones before painting as a guide and way to help keep me from stepping in the wet paint but it's not strictly required.

We don't get much traffic here lately but hopefully someone else here can share their painting experience and ideas for us.
Charleston Rasmus
Bottom Paint Application Technician
Posts: 10
Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2023 8:36 pm
Boat Name: SV Allie Rose
Boat Type: Hallberg Rassy Rasmus 35'

Re: Deck Painting

Post by Charleston Rasmus »

Thank you James for your thorough instructions! Is there a spray gun that you use when spraying the finish areas? Do you find that the final product is significantly improved in comparison to rolling?
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atomvoyager
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Posts: 421
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Re: Deck Painting

Post by atomvoyager »

If you haven't sprayed automotive or marine paints before than there is a big learning curve and lots of equipment and setup and testing time needed. Spraying can give you a better finish in a shorter time but not worth it unless you will paint more than one boat. This $70 gun works OK for paint and for primer:

https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools ... 68843.html

They have a nicer $250 gun that I'm going to try out soon.
Charleston Rasmus
Bottom Paint Application Technician
Posts: 10
Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2023 8:36 pm
Boat Name: SV Allie Rose
Boat Type: Hallberg Rassy Rasmus 35'

Re: Deck Painting

Post by Charleston Rasmus »

I'll likely take your advice and just roll the paint then. It doesn't need to be perfect, and if you're telling me that's the best way to do it if I'm only going to be painting one boat, I'll trust your judgement.
Charleston Rasmus
Bottom Paint Application Technician
Posts: 10
Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2023 8:36 pm
Boat Name: SV Allie Rose
Boat Type: Hallberg Rassy Rasmus 35'

Re: Deck Painting

Post by Charleston Rasmus »

Everything is primed and I'm ready to apply the top coat. However, I'm getting nervous about applying the one part axleseal top coat. I'm thinking that the better way to go is the two part awlgrip 2000. I wanted to check with you first to see if you have any feedback? Is it better to go with the two part top coat? What are the advantages/disadvantages?
Charleston Rasmus
Bottom Paint Application Technician
Posts: 10
Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2023 8:36 pm
Boat Name: SV Allie Rose
Boat Type: Hallberg Rassy Rasmus 35'

Re: Deck Painting

Post by Charleston Rasmus »

James, if you can provide some clarity, it would be greatly appreciated. I reviewed the instructions from Alexseal, and on second thought, maybe I'm confused.

I've already procured 1 gallon of the Alexseal 501, and the micro-can of roll additive. I did this because they were on sale, but didn't think of asking questions at the time. I suppose I always assumed it was a one part top coat.

If, in fact, the Alexseal 501 that you referenced using on the Cape Dory 36 is a two part top coat and I was mistaken (which appears to be the case from the instructions) - perhaps all that is needed is procuring a 1/2 gallon of C5012 (the top coat converter), and a quart of the reducer (5015). Does that sound correct to you? If so, the last question I would follow that up with would be - do you recommend using the 1/4" nap mohair for the top coat, or some type of foam cabinate roller?

Thank you!
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atomvoyager
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Posts: 421
Joined: Thu Jul 12, 2018 7:48 am
Boat Name: Atom
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Re: Deck Painting

Post by atomvoyager »

Yes Alexseal is a two component paint. You need to buy the converter and read the application instructions Here:
https://www.alexseal.com/fileadmin/user ... _1_WEB.pdf

I use a 1/4" nap Redtree mohair roller. You can experiment with that and a foam roller and see what works best for you. I don't tip it off with a brush when using the roll additive but you do need a brush for hard to reach spots. Mix a very small amount and do some test panels to get mixture and technique correct for your conditions of wind, temp, humidity (avoid direct sunlight on a hot dry or windy day).

Mix 501 base 2-1 with converter, then add roll additive. let sit 15 minutes then add reducer. Example: 8 oz base, 4 oz converter, 4-5 oz reducer (try 4 oz first coat and depending on results use up to 5 oz next coat if needed), 2.5 ml roll additive measured with a syringe.

Here are some tutorials:
https://www.boatworkstoday.com/project-type/alexseal/
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