Nordica 20'

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peakwithwings
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Boat Name: Kolohe
Boat Type: Nordica 20'

Nordica 20'

Post by peakwithwings »

#1) Am I doing what I should be doing?
removed all the bulkheads, and was poking around under both the beam decks, when a few of the holes started dripping, on the port & starboard sides
removed most the glass from the undersides of these beam decks and exposed the wet plywood in its entirety
after a few days now, it seems the plywood is sturdy and has mostly dried out; it is still adhered to the beam deck above
initially i was going replace the plywood under the deck, but am not sure how to do so, and if it is really needed since it seems to be drying out

#2) Am I doing this correctly & addressing these tasks in the right order?
investigating the space between the foredeck and the ceiling above the V berth, i found what used to be wood of some sort
it crumbled out quite easily, and I am awaiting the purchase of an oscillating fiberglass cutting tool to remove the rest of the fiberglass ceiling and the V shelf just below the ceiling to make access there less cumbersome
once that is removed and cleaned i thought i'd fabricate a wooden template to use to cut a new wood deck to epoxy to the bottom side of the foredeck
then i figured i should do some sort of hull underside of deck join, and then glass the shelf back in place>
in the meantime i have been removing all the stuff where water has seeped through- places like the deck fittings, chain pipes, cleats, and stanchions, as well as the rubbing strip, sail tracks and slides-it looks like the sail tracks have 40 + bolts on both sides...
peakwithwings
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Re: Nordica 20'

Post by peakwithwings »

ok, so i am replying to my own message? cool. i usually talk to myself anyway, so this isn't new to me...

the plywood (doug fir-balsa?)on the starboard side was still spongy so i ripped it out using a chisel, pry bar, and vice grips.
the wood broke into 3 pieces, so i laid them out and will get a pattern going later
the plywood on the port side was in much better shape so it seems that'll be ok

while i was taking the teak handholds, hardware off the cabin on both sides of the hatch water stared coming out the holes the tiny bolts were in
so from the inside i ripped out a thin layer of fiberglass and exposed more pretty wood, it smelled good too! I hope the starboard dries out-the port side is just damp - no dripping water there

also, it looks like the the builders/designers inserted a full fiberglass liner into the hull interior
this liner includes the beam side berths, the V berth and the pseudo cabinetry amidships
the sole, and that pesky shelf under the foredeck

if i had that "drum melt" tool i'd try to remove it all- that way i could see the bilge under, and get great access to the interior part of the whole hull... then i could poke around from the inside and see how tough is and stuff- want to get it cleaned, smoothed and painted a dazzling white
perhaps

this is down the eddy aways, but was thinking of small storage areas, putting a 7 h.p. yanmar with a 15 gallon fuel tank in, efficient space for 20+ fresh water gallon jugs, a groover, and "gym balled" single burner stove, sort of sure it'd all fit . . . .

still figuring out how to get pictures loaded
svMira
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Re: Nordica 20'

Post by svMira »

Congrats, you passed the first test! <grin> I think most of us boat-heads talk to our self. On the water, I talk to the boat a lot.

Welcome here!

You're knee deep in one of the tough ones and we don't quite know what to say. Rotten core is rotten core, and it all needs to come out. The fact that you've tackled it from the bottom is just going to make your life a lot harder closing it up, and I bet pulling it out wasn't fun either. But it is so hard to know if your process is correct or not, without seeing/knowing more. The notion that opening it up for a few days drying it out is unrealistic, you've got to dig it all out till you hit the dry/solid/not-rotten stuff. I've done a bit of this and tried to play the optimistic card and every time when I come back and figure I'm ready to close up, I end up seeing one vein of wet that is still wicking out, go after that and end up opening up a spot twice as big as I had expected and end up doubling my waiting time. All this to say that we feel for you. And the fact that you're finding water in other places is just plain scary.

I'm also not very familiar with the Nordica 20. I don't know the construction, so I can't comment to the process of tackling her issues. Sorry. I haven't done pictures here yet either really. I think the real trick is to put them up on some public site and then link to them here. At least that's how most forums work.

How big is the Nordica production run? Have you been able to find 'the' Nordica community, if there is one? I had a Tanzer 22 that had a neat community, even though it wasn't too active by now, the archive of the newgroup from way back was a great resource. but it had over 2000 boats in the run. My Wanderer is from a run of 177 or so, there's no dedicated community around that boat. But it is close enough to the Alberg 30s and Tritons that I can get a good perspective from those boats.

Happy re-coring,
Marvin - s/v Mira - 1971 Pearson Wanderer #174
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Re: Nordica 20'

Post by atomvoyager »

I agree with Marvin here but I'm not clear about what you found and what you're doing. And not familiar with "beam decks". Maybe you mean side decks (the flat deck area outboard of the coach roof? You have wood rot and water intrusion somewhere. I don't know how the N20 is constructed but in general our boats deck construction is a top layer of fiberglass with gelcoat on the outside, bonded to a core of balsa, plywood, or rigid foam, bonded to an inner skin of fiberglass. In addition, boats after around 1970 mostly had an inner fiberglass liner that either fits tight to the inner skin of deck or has an air space. Other options to a fiberglass liner are removable overhead panels with or without insulation above them. If you are talking about a chain locker or anchor locker, it could be a sunken locker accessed from a deck hatch that has a plywood floor, all above the waterline with a drain hole overboard or no locker door on deck and a vertical bulkhead separating the chain locker from the forward cabin. Those drain into the bilge and may have a locker door inside. In any case, if you have wood rot it almost always from deck fittings leaking. You can determine that by running a water hose over every fitting on deck and look below. If there are hidden areas then just assume all fittings are leaking and rebed them all using butyl where possible. If you can describe one specific repair area in more detail maybe I can give you further advice.

There may be other ways but the way I attach photos is first I have the image in a reasonable size of say under 500 KB or so that is located in a folder on my PC. After you type your message in the Message box or Post A Reply box, click Attachments under the message box, click Add Files. A dialog box opens and you select the image from whatever folder its in and click Open. Then under the black bar that says Filename, click Place Inline. Then click Preview and if it looks alright click Submit. By the way, sometimes when I click submit with or without a photo added I get an error message. I ignore it and go back to the message board index and the message has always been posted. Some people think it didn't post and then do a double post. Some bug in the system there. And so far I only do one photo per post because I was having some problem doing multiples.
A30 Chain Locker.JPG
peakwithwings
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Re: Nordica 20'

Post by peakwithwings »

Wonderful! Thank you! I'm working on it.
peakwithwings
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Re: Nordica 20'

Post by peakwithwings »

fotografs the day i bought it
Attachments
NordicaPICT (1).png
Nordica_pict (1).png
NordicaFoto (1).png
svMira
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Re: Nordica 20'

Post by svMira »

Looks like she'll soak up a good quantity of TLC. Nice thing with these old fiberglass boats, is that they take to cleaning up well. She looks quite shippy and serious. Should be fun. Are you hoping to be on the water this summer?
Marvin - s/v Mira - 1971 Pearson Wanderer #174
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peakwithwings
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Boat Type: Nordica 20'

Re: Nordica 20'

Post by peakwithwings »

Hi again everyone!
It's inspiring to know there are folks out there who actually know what they're doing.

I hope to have the interior/exterior of the hull, rudder, mast/boom/rigging, new hardware, sails, lines, electronics, the inboard engine, the trailer, and I don't even know what else to mention, finished some time in the future... Yep, I reckon it'll require way more time than I can accurately say at this time. We'll see!

Finally got an oscillating tool and was able to remove the shelf directly under the bow deck. This allowed me to cut a clean line of the aforementioned ceiling. Then I cut out where it was attached to the through-deck cleat hardware, I think it was. Then I put the spatula attachment on the tool, and cleared the ceiling of all its wet and epoxy-infused leftovers. Now it's all stringy glass fibers.

After that, I got under the aft berths and used vice grips to stop the nuts from spinning. So then I was able to remove the blocks, winches, mooring cleats, backstay anchor-thingy that goes through the side decks and . While I was down there I unbolted the manual bilge pump, and smashed a bunch of mud dauber dirt chunks.

After that, I got to the bolts where the lazerette is supposed to be, and got the aft stanchion off as well as some plastic shell-shaped pieces with holes under them. (exhaust in/out takes?) Then looking at two sawed off stumps of metal pipes, I realized it was where the traveler bar used to be. So I removed those as well as some cleat cams. I think ALL the stuff on the deck, fore and aft are now removed, labeled and stored. Oh, I still need to remove the rubrail.

Sitting down in the cockpit, I finally was aware of all the seamy stress cracks on the floor of the cockpit, the deck, and the no skid portions of the deck, so will have to address all that later too.

So, I am trying decide if i should cut out all the interior fiberglass inserts. If so, I have a lot to learn about prepping and laying fiberglass!

Thanks again.
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Re: Nordica 20'

Post by markwesti »

Hi would you please post some pictures of the "interior glass inserts" you want to cut out ? And also why you want to cut them out , please . I mean really let's talk about this first before cutting , Thanks .
This will be a awesome boat when you are finished .
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Re: Nordica 20'

Post by svMira »

And, (only half in jest) with the amount that you are pulling out of the ceiling, you might want to roll your boat upside-down to glass that core and inner layer back in. That way you'll be working with gravity in your favour and could minimize the chance of getting voids in there.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JlwEJ_MvQuI
Marvin - s/v Mira - 1971 Pearson Wanderer #174
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peakwithwings
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Re: Nordica 20'

Post by peakwithwings »

Sorry about the delay. This is under the bow. The line where the shelf used to be is evident. There's also a section where 2 rectangular sections of ply were removed.
Will be grinding this down until it can take whatever it's called to put in new ply. Have to do a template for that ... I would have come in from above, but... I didn't. Sorry! I do have a bunch of those expanding bars that unscrew and are usually used for pull-ups in a doorway. Thought that might work O.K.
I think I need to clean up the ragged ares of where the glass has been "cut."
Should i reuse the fiberglass ceiling I removed once the ply is strongly affixed?
Attachments
bow2.jpg
Last edited by peakwithwings on Mon Apr 20, 2020 5:39 pm, edited 3 times in total.
peakwithwings
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Re: Nordica 20'

Post by peakwithwings »

Again, here the ply was dry, but had de-laminated from the glass/deck above. So I removed the glass below. The space between the deck and the ply is big enough for me to insert a pretty good sized syringe, so figured I could inject the stuff in there so as to make the wood stick up there just fine. (use those pull up bars to apply pressure)
The edges of glass are also ragged, so surmise I need to get that cleaned up before I reattach the glass I removed.
I have to study up on how to do this...
Also, the very dry ply under the port side deck is also detached and sort of visible. Hoping the same method previously will work.
Oh, the ply on both sides of the companionway are dry. Not sure what to do about the holes where the electronics used to be. Probably cut out ply pieces to fit in there...? Not sure if I will use the same holes.
Attachments
aft-ish2.jpg
Last edited by peakwithwings on Mon Apr 20, 2020 4:39 pm, edited 3 times in total.
peakwithwings
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Re: Nordica 20'

Post by peakwithwings »

Removed the glass around the forward hatch. The ply there was also dry, but easily pulled away from the deck above. Again, thinking with the syringe and pull up bars, I will be able to put in new ply using epoxy?

The small port window, partially seen, had only one rivet holding it in. Was able to remove it by hand. Not sure what to do next...
The same window on the starboard side has 3 rivets holding it in place. Guess I need one of those cylindrical bits to cut the glass around the rivets?
Attachments
nord6.jpg
Last edited by peakwithwings on Mon Apr 20, 2020 5:58 pm, edited 2 times in total.
peakwithwings
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Boat Type: Nordica 20'

Re: Nordica 20'

Post by peakwithwings »

Here is the glass and ply removed from under the starboard side deck. Will get some ply to cut
Am thinking I should use the broken pieces as a template, & the same methods I posited earlier?
Would reattaching the broken pieces of glass to the underside of the reattached ply be fine?
Attachments
starboard ply.jpg
peakwithwings
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Re: Nordica 20'

Post by peakwithwings »

here is the hole below waterline, which I think was cut out for a long shafted outboard. Part of the removed section near where the motor hung is seen.
Attachments
lazerette hole1.jpg
Last edited by peakwithwings on Mon Apr 20, 2020 5:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
peakwithwings
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Re: Nordica 20'

Post by peakwithwings »

view from the ground
a bit worried about the obvious metallic stain from that seam...
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lazerette hole 2.jpg
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Re: Nordica 20'

Post by svMira »

That's one epic can of worms you've got there, not gonna lie. I've done a good amount of glasswork in my time and I almost can't imagine trying to get a wetted out amount of glass up on the ceiling to cover those openings. Even if you re-use the old fibreglass panels (which I've often done), the amount of thickened you're going to have to put in there to ensure that you don't have voids while working against gravity is going to have epoxy raining down on you like some final judgement scene in a b-movie. Looks like a Nordica 20 is only 2500 lbs. I'm upping my vote for rolling the boat over if you're serious about fixing it. It sounds like a ridiculous amount of effort that isn't directly helping, but having gravity in your favour for that whole ceiling fix is going to make everything a lot easier, almost fun.

That hole in the back has me a bit concerned. James is the expert in putting holes in the back of sailboats <grin>, but I'm guessing it could use a little reinforcement. The line of direct force for the rear stay has been directly interrupted. I'd be looking for signs of flex in the hull. But, I also don't know how they are constructed, just going from what I can see in your pictures. What's left inline with the stay looks to be hardly longer than the aft chainplate itself.

I had a short shaft on an outboard bracket on my Tanzer 22. I've done a couple of sails where I forgot to raise the motor. One, where having the outboard in the water the whole time acted as an autopilot, keeping me on course for 4+ miles, the resistance was perfectly balanced for the point of sail. But, point being, having an outboard on a 20' boat that doesn't come out of the water is a significant drag. You don't mention if you are keeping the well or not, but what ever you do, I'd make very sure that I could raise the prop out of the water. Your boat will feel very sluggish if you don't. The difference on a boat that small will be very noticeable.
Marvin - s/v Mira - 1971 Pearson Wanderer #174
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peakwithwings
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Re: Nordica 20'

Post by peakwithwings »

OK-thank you SO MUCH for your input, and advice!
yep, that's unfortunate, wish I had the resources to get her off the trailer bed, and then flip her easily, like a lover, but I don't...

given that, could I make the epoxy thick enough to limit the dripping and cut smaller pieces of plywood sections to stick to the fiberglass above? (i read to coat until the wood stops absorbing-then it will adhere better to the glass)

& so once that's done, use enough of something called a "thickening agent" added to the runny epoxy resin, which I'd roll onto the underside of the plywood? (metal roller)

& then when the under side of the ply is sticky, cut the old fiberglass sections into smaller pieces, pieces that were already "wetted out" which means soaked with the epoxy resin, I am assuming ...

& then roll the area with heavy resin, lay the matt on and steel roll into the resin?

& then add more resin needed to finish, using 3/4 oz matt?

oh, I would also need to "wash with acetone" certain areas
I also saw a post to "lay in wax paper and use "door skins" to contour to the under side of the deck & screw in place," but think my expanding pull up bars would apply more pressure.

Lastly, yes, I would like to have an inboard diesel.
sorry I made this more difficult than it could have been!
and thanks again for your help!
peakwithwings
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Re: Nordica 20'

Post by peakwithwings »

Found this West System Manual online:

https://www.westsystem.com/wp-content/u ... l-2015.pdf

I looked at section 5.2.1 Re-bonding the skin, page 36

Comments?
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Re: Nordica 20'

Post by svMira »

I think you've got the idea.
Make sure you dry fit everything first. You don't want to be figuring out your clamps when everything is wet.
And, you can make a pile of sticks to hold up your glue-up, like they use to hold down guitar bridging.
https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/ ... e=original
I would have converted and pasted in the pic, but it was of an unknown format that my converter wouldn't recognize.

If you aren't reusing the old glass panel as your outside layer, I would cut some kind of thin ply as a holder of the wetted out layers of glass and lift them all up as one and then brace them from the bottom. Think of getting the structure up in one step and then after the bulk of it is in place and dry, you can sand/shape and then put on the finishing layer for looks. Some wax paper between the ply and the glass will ensure it won't stick. PeelPly seems to be quite in vogue, but I haven't had access to any yet. I'm sure that would be better than wax paper.
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peakwithwings
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Re: Nordica 20'

Post by peakwithwings »

OK, great. Thanks again for the encouragement. Now I just have to buy materials, and continue opening this "can of worms."
peakwithwings
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Re: Nordica 20'

Post by peakwithwings »

Well, had to get my "Orcas in a row" first, so got my workbench out of storage and set that up; then had to make more sawhorses for another work surface. Might be able to score some scaffolding to have the deck at waist level, but we'll see...
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Re: Nordica 20'

Post by svMira »

Cool. Been there, done that. Don't kill yourself. I had a path around one full side of the boat set up two years ago. Made working a breeze. But it was disconcerting how the levels and type of supports changed. Had to always watch my footing. And it was surprising how much higher the bow was. Had to make my scaffolding rise up at the front end of the boat more than I thought at first to keep the same working angles.

"Orcas in a row', good one. Watched the youtube documentary on the yacht 'Octopussy' the other day. There was a northern European phrase I hadn't heard in there, "That guy really knows his onions."
Marvin - s/v Mira - 1971 Pearson Wanderer #174
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peakwithwings
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Re: Nordica 20'

Post by peakwithwings »

Onions, hee hee

found a couple boxes filled with these like, I sanded down the glossy side-
it was for tiling the library years ago-
was trying to decide if I could use them as core material-
they have 2 wires on the back-
each piece has 7 individual pieces, easily separated-
they seem like they'd absorb a lot of the stuff that goes on there-
not sure what kind of wood
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WIN_20200430_17_37_06_Pro.jpg
WIN_20200430_17_36_56_Pro.jpg
WIN_20200430_17_36_41_Pro.jpg
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Re: Nordica 20'

Post by svMira »

You don't want voids and you don't want metal in there. If you pulled them apart, removed the wire and stuck up the individual pieces with thickened epoxy between, it should word. But... not if that is red oak, normal hardware store oak. Then get it very far far away from your boat. The only test I know, is to put some alcohol in a dish and stand the end grain into it. If it wicks up stupid fast, it is red oak and it will transfer any water ingress far and wide. You can put that on the same shelf as the silicone that shouldn't be on your boat. <grin>
White oak has a closed cell structure that doesn't transfer water, red is like packed vertical straws and can suck liquid up in mere seconds. I did it with a small block once and it was almost instant. I was shocked. ....And I had used it in a rudder on a small boat earlier, before I learned it. So, that's why it was so heavy now. Whoops.
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peakwithwings
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Re: Nordica 20'

Post by peakwithwings »

That's what I thought.
I will get some balsa squares for the area above the V berth, and the same type of plywood I removed for starboard beam deck.
Thanks!
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Re: Nordica 20'

Post by peakwithwings »

Have had way too much to do besides working on boat. Pictures of dry fit and roller furling; it has a bend in it that looks inoperable? I have never used roller furling, and am pretty sure I will get rid of it and just have simple hank on stays.
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20200522_183754 (1).jpg
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Re: Nordica 20'

Post by atomvoyager »

You might be able to bend it back but I don't know if you can trust it not to break later at the bend. You could try to replace just the lower tube if one is available and it's not corroded in place. I don't recall if you said how much sailing experience you have but if not much you may want to keep the furler until you try it out. You probably already know this but for others who might not, hank-ons are more efficient if you always have the right size sail up for the wind conditions but on average may not be as you frequently carry too much or too little sail for the conditions out of a reluctance to go forward for what might prove a temporary wind change that causes you to frequently change back and forth. They are simpler in amount of gear but are far less simpler to use in changing winds in rough seas and mean you need to carry three jibs at a minimum and maybe four to cover all wind strengths. But a furler needs to be top quality and the installation perfect in order to avoid common problems and the headstay replaced now and then since it can't easily be inspected. If you're an athletic sailor with the right number of jibs then maybe hank-on is the right choice for you.
peakwithwings
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Re: Nordica 20'

Post by peakwithwings »

THANK YOU!
peakwithwings
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Re: Nordica 20'

Post by peakwithwings »

Hi All,
Whew. That took awhile! 3+ months? jeeze! Had to take care of the intricacies of liquidating real estate, relocation, etc.  
Anyway, have collected materials needed to fiberglass interior. Was about to begin, when I realized it'd look better if the electrical systems wiring were underneath the glass, rather than attached later with clip-ons.
Also, not exactly sure about what's needed. So have been attempting to figure that out. Would like to not rely on shore power, so Lithium battery(ies) solar panel(s) above and rear of stern might be good.  Found a vessel energy usage estimator (12 or 24 volt system) for 24 hour period.
Want all LED lighting. That includes anchor light [.25 amps]
tri-color mast head [.30 amps]
running lights [.50 amps]
mooring light for under 20' boats [.30 amps]
4 cabin lights [1.0 amps]
1 chart light [.20 amps]
1 deck light  and a night light in cockpit to read gauges without being blinded. 

Beyond that, I've read that inverter[idk]
microwave [50.00 amps]
VHF-receive/transmit [5.25 amps]
radar [7.0 amps] depth sounder [.25 amps]
AIS w/transmitter [1.75] are good to have, but then there's the
marine GPS plotter [3.25 amps]
( I used to have a boat with no electricity, and used paper charts only by headlamps, and had kerosene night lanterns. ) which is a nice supplement to paper charts. 
I guess this means I'd need to have WIFI [idk] and
PC [5.0 amps] capabilities.

Need to figure out total amps at anchor, and total at sail, and then acquire batteries/solar as needed to power all that, no?

Need to finish interior fiber glassing. (Still deciding if I want / need to glass / close off all through hulls, the hole in the stern keel where a long shaft outboard used to go, and create /mold a lazerette hatch later)

Need new canvas, hank on forestays, etc. etc.!

Oh my, I had another 2 week interference/absence from the boat !
CV19 has been a doosy to deal with, but am back and just need to smash my phone...lol
.
I took off the rub rails and gouged out all the old caulking in the riveted seam which connects the deck and hull

AS I mentioned above, I figured that before I glass the interior I should put conduit for the wiring in and glass over that...
but
I am not even close to actually installing the electrical system!

I do have a shopping list..
how does this sound?:

I have:
one 155 amp deep cycle battery/ventilated/sealed/battery box 
(Tesla battery: 250 amp hours at 24 volts, 500 amp hours at 12 volts, parallel battery bank configuration/series connection??) 
solar charge controller-40 amp-150V PV, smart plug for shore power- with disconnect circuit breaker less than 10' from point of shore power, 15 amp circuit breakers  7" to 30" away battery switch, 
800 watt converter, 
positive and negative bus bars, 
switch panel/boxes, fuse panel/box,
terminal switch, 
4GA marine grade wire (UL1426)- larger amp rating-larger the wire,  
red=positive wire, 
black=negative wire, 
grounding conductor=green, 
navigation lights=grey, 
instrument feed=purple, 
cabin & instruments=blue
still figuring out [map] where each piece of equipment goes...stuff like depth finder, VHF, GPS, lights, etc. 
still have to locate fuses, bus bars, switch panels too
User avatar
atomvoyager
Moderator | Revitalizer of Classics
Posts: 421
Joined: Thu Jul 12, 2018 7:48 am
Boat Name: Atom
Boat Type: Pearson Triton
Contact:

Re: Nordica 20'

Post by atomvoyager »

That's a big subject to cover here but I can comment on a few points. I don't know what a 500 AH Tesla battery is or why it's needed on a 20' boat unless you are trying to cook all the time without shore power using a microwave oven or run a small heater or other high loads. But even then you won't have enough solar to sustain it. Instead I would not try to run a microwave unless on shore power. Then I would think 200 AH AGM sufficient and 300 max for your boat. I don't bother with fully color coded wires because it's too much trouble to buy many different lengths of different wires. Just put number tags at the ends and make up a wiring schematic of the boat for reference. You can try to calculate your average and max electric loads in AH per day but it gets confusing if you aren't that familiar with the real life numbers you will actually use. Fortunately, you don't need to do all this work. If you want a boat set up similar to what I do then you can just follow the steps in the video below and make minor changes to suit your different needs:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PofFOg9H_6Y
peakwithwings
Bottom Paint Application Technician
Posts: 23
Joined: Sat Apr 04, 2020 6:49 pm
Boat Name: Kolohe
Boat Type: Nordica 20'

Re: Nordica 20'

Post by peakwithwings »

Voyager of Atoms:
Your video was very helpful! Yes, lithium/tesla battery: too much $!
Decided to just do a DC boat-makes it much easier.
Great idea about the wiring.
Thank you very much.
peakwithwings
Bottom Paint Application Technician
Posts: 23
Joined: Sat Apr 04, 2020 6:49 pm
Boat Name: Kolohe
Boat Type: Nordica 20'

Re: Nordica 20'

Post by peakwithwings »

Howdy!
Well, finally got around to my V berth ceiling "solution."
I epoxied in pieces of Cedar shaped in various squares, trapezoids, and triangles.
Smeared in thick, pasty mat and epoxy mix where gaps were.
Then glassed it all, haphazardly, with bondo, mat and biaxial fiberglass.
Later I went topsides and jumped around on the foredeck and it was SOLID.
It ain't pretty, but I guess I fixed it.
Am now painting it, and prepping to re-install the shelf just below the ceiling.
Photo on 1-13-21 at 1.34 PM #2.jpg
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