1968 Hinterhoeller HR 28
After a few small structural & cosmetic repairs on my O'Day Daysailor with hardware store resin with mat & cloth (it worked well enough), I've become convinced Epoxy may be worth the extra cost on my "big boat". I am not doing large-scale repair/replace projects, my immediate need is to layup a couple 18-inch under-deck stiffeners where there is the slightest bit of deck-flex under my ample girth (note, I am certain I do not have a core problem, the boat is all-glass without core). I plan on 3 layers of cloth over a piece of half-round foam pipe insulation to give the layup a rounded anti-flex form.
A Few Questions.
Am I correct that if my underdeck (raw unpainted polyester-glass) surface is well-prepared (clean and roughed) that epoxy-and-cloth will adhere to it sufficiently well?
Am I correct that with epoxy, I can simply lay-in 3 layers of cloth without the separation layers of mat that polyester resin requires?
Given that I am fine with every glass project taking 24 hours (or more) to cure... and I am not very accomplished at glass work so longer working times are a big help... is there any reason I should NOT get the West Systems Extra-Slow hardener?
Continued thanks... I love this site, but feel out of my league when I see pictures of others' work.
Epoxy Virgin; Which West Hardener & Fabric
Re: Epoxy Virgin; Which West Hardener & Fabric
Yes, but just to clarify "cleaned and roughed," I would probably go over it with a solvent, and also "rough" it with something like 50-80 grit sandpaper. This layer will be a mechanical bond, so I like to be sure I'm well prepped.hriehl1 wrote:
A Few Questions.
Am I correct that if my underdeck (raw unpainted polyester-glass) surface is well-prepared (clean and roughed) that epoxy-and-cloth will adhere to it sufficiently well?
Yes, you can use cloth without mat. I like the rolls of Episize biaxial tape (~5" wide), but others are fine too. (I do use biaxmat at times too though.)hriehl1 wrote:Am I correct that with epoxy, I can simply lay-in 3 layers of cloth ...?
I would probably go for the "normal" slow, myself. The extra-slow, as mentioned, is more expensive (although that wouldn't stop me using it if I felt it was best for the job), and I believe it also uses a different mix ratio, hence different pumps. With the regular slow it's the same ratio as the fast (I believe you can even blend them for "medium," etc, although I usually use a different brand).hriehl1 wrote:Given that I am fine with every glass project taking 24 hours (or more) to cure... and I am not very accomplished at glass work so longer working times are a big help... is there any reason I should NOT get the West Systems Extra-Slow hardener?
I've been glassing the past two weeks in 90º+ weather, and have had ample time with the slow, as long as I have things planned out and laid out in advance (think stir-fry). For example, I was doing some tabbing that was probably similar in size and scope to your job. I laid out the mixing sticks, squeegee, etc., laid out the cloth on a wax-paper covered plank (plastic is fine too), donned my three nitrile gloves per hand, and had everything else set to go.
First I poured some of the mixed, neat epoxy on the cloth strips and quickly spread it around on them. Then, while they were "soaking" (they will saturate more fully while I'm off doing other things), I coated the receiving surfaces with neat epoxy from the same cup (from which much of the epoxy was already spread out on the cloth).
Next, I took what was left and thickened it, then made the necessary fillets over the neat epoxy I just brushed onto the receiving surfaces. Then I went back and retrieved the cloth (making sure it was completely saturated) and applied it to the pre-wetted surfaces, working the air out, and etc.. In this case it was okay if my fillets didn't stay perfect, so I did not need to let them set up ahead of time. Anyway, I just wanted to give you an idea of what you could do with even the regular slow hardener in hot weather (and I had not pre-cooled the resin at all, nor did I use ice or anything like that to cool it down; mostly just spread the bulk of it out ASAP).
One thing that I find is that tidiness counts, and any time/work I put into prepping, masking off, and keeping the cloth neat will pay me back at the end of the job (fewer overslops, "poinks" to sand off, etc.). That said, there are times it's easiest to let the cloth run wild, and then trim it in the green stage, or post-cure with a saw. But for something like what you are doing, I go for the initial tidy.
Rachel
-
Zach
- Boat Obsession Medal Finalist
- Posts: 684
- Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 6:28 pm
- Location: Beaufort, North Carolina
- Contact:
Re: Epoxy Virgin; Which West Hardener & Fabric
Didn't mean to rehash what Rachel had to say... Typed last night and hit send this morning. Thinned out all the rehashed thoughts:
If the boat isn't a project remove all the cushions from the area, wrap everything up in plastic and have a shop vac with a yellow drywall dust bag, and a fine filtering cartridge. If possible, run the hose in a window, and vacuum while you hand sand, as the exhaust of the vacuum may pass glass fibers if the bag tears in mid job...
The easiest way to attach the foam is spray adhesive (only on the foam) or carpet tape. You may want to fillet the edge of the foam with a bit of cabosil or colloidal silica 406 and a west system mixing stick for a smoother looking job. If you are installing a headliner, though it is overkill in that the foam isn't the least bit structural. The shape of the glass, and height of the top of the arch off the deck is what gives it stiffness and strength. I would be tempted to do one strip without a fillet and see how it lays. You may want to put a tarp over the deck with a 1-2 foot air gap, if you fillet. Slow hardener against a 100 degree deck works fine for wetting out fiberglass, but can go up in smoke in a fillet, and curl off the foam.
Wet out your cloth on a board you don't care about, or a plastic sheet. Cut the cloth pieces... say not much longer than 30 -36 inches in length so it is easy (relatively...) to handle. I've done 6 foot tabs overhead out of one length of cloth, but it also fits the category of things I'm not planning on doing again! Roll the pieces up, or keep them laid flat, as they will heckle up at the folds. I take a rough eyeball with a piece of scrap laid over the stringer so that it overlaps to the flat deck by about 3 inches on each side Much less, and gravity doesn't like for it to hang there. Don't go overly nuts trying to keep the sides lined up, as the glass cloth varies in width about a 1/4 inch, depending how tightly it is pulled, over your 6-8 inch wide tabbing. Also the edge of the roll isn't straight when you unroll it, unless you straighten the cloth against a line or table edge.
You can also use 8in x 8in squares, with the sides butted if your first long strips feel like to much work. Butt the squares together, and on your second layer, stagger the seams by 3 inches or so. Not as good looking, but strong.
Back to the long stuff... Trying to straighten tabbing that goes over a stringer, generally means that you loosen the weave of the cloth, and end up with an air bubble in the fillet that stands proud. Overhead, it means that it drops on your head... Strike one index line, on one side of your foam with a sharpie and get close to that and rest easy that the other side will work out. If it goes wildly astray, take the piece back down and try it again.
Weigh out the cloth in ounces, and mix up an equal amount of epoxy for your first strip or two. This is to make sure that you aren't overly resin rich, which prevents the glass from falling off the ceiling. Wet out both pieces, rather than leaving anything to sit in the pot as it won't kick off as quickly. If you have room, after the pieces are wet out spread them out rather than making a stack.
You will want to pre-wet the deck and foam, lightly with a 2 inch chip brush or thick nap 4 inch paint roller. You can use fast and wait for it to tack, There is a time window where it helps by being just a little sticky, but if left to long you have to resin coat it again to be able to move the cloth. I wet out each run, with the same resin I'm using to wet out the cloth. This is more like painting, where the tip of the brush (1/2 inch) is wet with resin, and not the whole brush like when you are wetting out the cloth... otherwise it runs down your elbow... and drips in your hair. (An old T-shirt pulled over your head with the sleeves tied is a decent, albeit funny looking... head protector.)
With the glass wet out, hanging in your hands like a piece of linguini, Hold the glass about a quarter of the way in from each end, staying away from the ends, as the glass will unweave enough to not make a nice job... Place one end close to the inside corner of the deck, and stick it up against the deck. Lets say you are doing the starboard side piece. Your right hand will stick the first bit to the deck, attempt to get 6-8 inches of length stuck in place. Your left hand is still supporting the weight, trying very hard not to let the cloth in the middle sag. It might be an inch off the deck. When you get your 6 inches, rotate your cloth up into position pulling away from the stuff that is stuck ever so gently to take out the sag. Your right hand will rub the cloth to the deck, on its way to the middle of the boat. Work the cloth in the same direction, from outside towards the inside, if you are trying to work it down flat. Any other motions are just pats directly up to work out air.
This takes about 4 seconds. You want the cloth to go from clear, to dark, evenly along the side you are working. To line up or adjust the cloth you'll grab it with your hands together like you are clapping, and tug slowly in the direction you want it to go, with your force applied as close to the deck level as possible. Pinching tightly on the end and tugging results in a dry spot where you pinched...
Before the strip of fiberglass has time to think, put your hands together in the middle of the glass, and roll your fingers around the foam core. Slide your palms down the top of the foam, spreading your hands out. as you stick the glass around to the other side against the deck. Now rubbing the same direction from the outside of the hull to the center, rub your hand down the fiberglass against the deck.
If you rub in the opposite direction (from port to starboard) on the forward side of the foam stringer the glass will loosen, and relieve against the round. This side, you'll tuck the fiberglass flap in against the round, and run your hands down the length of the strip. Don't worry to much about the glass not being tight enough around the foam just now, that is easy... it is more difficult to work with a to-tight piece of glass that wants to pull out of the fillet or corner... particularly if you tighten it up so much that it pulls out of the other sides fillet.
After that piece is up, move to the port side, and do the most outboard strip. Then center. Overlap your middle piece 3 inches or so over the outsides rather than butting anything. You might also consider doubling up the center piece, as you'll gain more stiffness there than building thickness across the entire length.
Leave be the little hairs want to hang down until the glass has kicked. Air roll as best as you can around them once they start rolling up on your air roller the glass has a strong chance of coming down... A paint brush wet with resin, works well to get the fillet air free, as you mush the glass cloth over into place with the side of your hand
You may also experiment with a smear of almost peanut butter epoxy thickened with cabosil, or west systems 406 colloidal silica, before you apply the glass. It can be helpful to hold the glass fiber to the foam, which is quite slick.
Hope that helps...
Zach
If the boat isn't a project remove all the cushions from the area, wrap everything up in plastic and have a shop vac with a yellow drywall dust bag, and a fine filtering cartridge. If possible, run the hose in a window, and vacuum while you hand sand, as the exhaust of the vacuum may pass glass fibers if the bag tears in mid job...
The easiest way to attach the foam is spray adhesive (only on the foam) or carpet tape. You may want to fillet the edge of the foam with a bit of cabosil or colloidal silica 406 and a west system mixing stick for a smoother looking job. If you are installing a headliner, though it is overkill in that the foam isn't the least bit structural. The shape of the glass, and height of the top of the arch off the deck is what gives it stiffness and strength. I would be tempted to do one strip without a fillet and see how it lays. You may want to put a tarp over the deck with a 1-2 foot air gap, if you fillet. Slow hardener against a 100 degree deck works fine for wetting out fiberglass, but can go up in smoke in a fillet, and curl off the foam.
Wet out your cloth on a board you don't care about, or a plastic sheet. Cut the cloth pieces... say not much longer than 30 -36 inches in length so it is easy (relatively...) to handle. I've done 6 foot tabs overhead out of one length of cloth, but it also fits the category of things I'm not planning on doing again! Roll the pieces up, or keep them laid flat, as they will heckle up at the folds. I take a rough eyeball with a piece of scrap laid over the stringer so that it overlaps to the flat deck by about 3 inches on each side Much less, and gravity doesn't like for it to hang there. Don't go overly nuts trying to keep the sides lined up, as the glass cloth varies in width about a 1/4 inch, depending how tightly it is pulled, over your 6-8 inch wide tabbing. Also the edge of the roll isn't straight when you unroll it, unless you straighten the cloth against a line or table edge.
You can also use 8in x 8in squares, with the sides butted if your first long strips feel like to much work. Butt the squares together, and on your second layer, stagger the seams by 3 inches or so. Not as good looking, but strong.
Back to the long stuff... Trying to straighten tabbing that goes over a stringer, generally means that you loosen the weave of the cloth, and end up with an air bubble in the fillet that stands proud. Overhead, it means that it drops on your head... Strike one index line, on one side of your foam with a sharpie and get close to that and rest easy that the other side will work out. If it goes wildly astray, take the piece back down and try it again.
Weigh out the cloth in ounces, and mix up an equal amount of epoxy for your first strip or two. This is to make sure that you aren't overly resin rich, which prevents the glass from falling off the ceiling. Wet out both pieces, rather than leaving anything to sit in the pot as it won't kick off as quickly. If you have room, after the pieces are wet out spread them out rather than making a stack.
You will want to pre-wet the deck and foam, lightly with a 2 inch chip brush or thick nap 4 inch paint roller. You can use fast and wait for it to tack, There is a time window where it helps by being just a little sticky, but if left to long you have to resin coat it again to be able to move the cloth. I wet out each run, with the same resin I'm using to wet out the cloth. This is more like painting, where the tip of the brush (1/2 inch) is wet with resin, and not the whole brush like when you are wetting out the cloth... otherwise it runs down your elbow... and drips in your hair. (An old T-shirt pulled over your head with the sleeves tied is a decent, albeit funny looking... head protector.)
With the glass wet out, hanging in your hands like a piece of linguini, Hold the glass about a quarter of the way in from each end, staying away from the ends, as the glass will unweave enough to not make a nice job... Place one end close to the inside corner of the deck, and stick it up against the deck. Lets say you are doing the starboard side piece. Your right hand will stick the first bit to the deck, attempt to get 6-8 inches of length stuck in place. Your left hand is still supporting the weight, trying very hard not to let the cloth in the middle sag. It might be an inch off the deck. When you get your 6 inches, rotate your cloth up into position pulling away from the stuff that is stuck ever so gently to take out the sag. Your right hand will rub the cloth to the deck, on its way to the middle of the boat. Work the cloth in the same direction, from outside towards the inside, if you are trying to work it down flat. Any other motions are just pats directly up to work out air.
This takes about 4 seconds. You want the cloth to go from clear, to dark, evenly along the side you are working. To line up or adjust the cloth you'll grab it with your hands together like you are clapping, and tug slowly in the direction you want it to go, with your force applied as close to the deck level as possible. Pinching tightly on the end and tugging results in a dry spot where you pinched...
Before the strip of fiberglass has time to think, put your hands together in the middle of the glass, and roll your fingers around the foam core. Slide your palms down the top of the foam, spreading your hands out. as you stick the glass around to the other side against the deck. Now rubbing the same direction from the outside of the hull to the center, rub your hand down the fiberglass against the deck.
If you rub in the opposite direction (from port to starboard) on the forward side of the foam stringer the glass will loosen, and relieve against the round. This side, you'll tuck the fiberglass flap in against the round, and run your hands down the length of the strip. Don't worry to much about the glass not being tight enough around the foam just now, that is easy... it is more difficult to work with a to-tight piece of glass that wants to pull out of the fillet or corner... particularly if you tighten it up so much that it pulls out of the other sides fillet.
After that piece is up, move to the port side, and do the most outboard strip. Then center. Overlap your middle piece 3 inches or so over the outsides rather than butting anything. You might also consider doubling up the center piece, as you'll gain more stiffness there than building thickness across the entire length.
Leave be the little hairs want to hang down until the glass has kicked. Air roll as best as you can around them once they start rolling up on your air roller the glass has a strong chance of coming down... A paint brush wet with resin, works well to get the fillet air free, as you mush the glass cloth over into place with the side of your hand
You may also experiment with a smear of almost peanut butter epoxy thickened with cabosil, or west systems 406 colloidal silica, before you apply the glass. It can be helpful to hold the glass fiber to the foam, which is quite slick.
Hope that helps...
Zach
1961 Pearson Triton
http://pylasteki.blogspot.com/
1942 Coast Guard Cutter - Rebuild
http://83footernoel.blogspot.com/
http://pylasteki.blogspot.com/
1942 Coast Guard Cutter - Rebuild
http://83footernoel.blogspot.com/
-
hriehl1
- Topside Painter
- Posts: 126
- Joined: Fri Aug 28, 2009 6:53 pm
- Boat Name: s/v Mooney Hahn
- Boat Type: '68 DS I; '68 Hinterhoeller 28
- Location: So. NH / Merrimac Valley
Re: Epoxy Virgin; Which West Hardener & Fabric
Great advice... wish I'd paid more attention.
Now what I have is a wasted day and botched job.
1. Never, ever think you can happily save $5 by cutting bulk cloth into 6-inch strips instead of buying nice edge-finished 6-inch tape. Oh, I saved $5 alright. And all those hanging down threads from unhemmed cloth made a real mess and made placing and forming the cloth near impossible. Friday afternoon at West Marine, I had the stinkin' tape in my hand, and put it back. I curse my own cheapness, my wife curses my cheapness... why do I persist?
2. Never, ever think wetted-out cloth will stay on an overhead the nice tight-fitting way you left it. I did not put down a thickened mixture for a fillet or underdeck basecoat... my bad. I thought (hoped? didn't think at all?) it would hold. 2 hours later when I returned, much had pulled free, has hardened and is near-useless. Gravity Sucks.
3. Never, ever think a foam pipe insulation cut into half rounds alone will suffice as a stiffener form. The one pre-glued peel-off edge held great but I didn't glue or otherwise set the other edge... I thought one well-attached half-round edge would suffice. Bad idea. Its ample flex allowed it to drop. Though only dropping 1/4 inch, along with the glasswork tabbing over (under) it, that was enough to get the tabbing started on its pulling away from the under-deck. Did I mention that Gravity Sucks? Actually, the foam pipe insulation cut into half-rounds was a good choice of material, perhaps my one good decision of the day. It was my corner-cutting method using it that was the problem.
I don't even want to go out there today to see what I need to do to recover. Of course, these are only character-building revelations to me; most of you learned these lessons long ago. Zach and Rachel alluded to them all if I had read more carefully and LISTENED.
Life's mistakes really are our best lessons.
Now what I have is a wasted day and botched job.
1. Never, ever think you can happily save $5 by cutting bulk cloth into 6-inch strips instead of buying nice edge-finished 6-inch tape. Oh, I saved $5 alright. And all those hanging down threads from unhemmed cloth made a real mess and made placing and forming the cloth near impossible. Friday afternoon at West Marine, I had the stinkin' tape in my hand, and put it back. I curse my own cheapness, my wife curses my cheapness... why do I persist?
2. Never, ever think wetted-out cloth will stay on an overhead the nice tight-fitting way you left it. I did not put down a thickened mixture for a fillet or underdeck basecoat... my bad. I thought (hoped? didn't think at all?) it would hold. 2 hours later when I returned, much had pulled free, has hardened and is near-useless. Gravity Sucks.
3. Never, ever think a foam pipe insulation cut into half rounds alone will suffice as a stiffener form. The one pre-glued peel-off edge held great but I didn't glue or otherwise set the other edge... I thought one well-attached half-round edge would suffice. Bad idea. Its ample flex allowed it to drop. Though only dropping 1/4 inch, along with the glasswork tabbing over (under) it, that was enough to get the tabbing started on its pulling away from the under-deck. Did I mention that Gravity Sucks? Actually, the foam pipe insulation cut into half-rounds was a good choice of material, perhaps my one good decision of the day. It was my corner-cutting method using it that was the problem.
I don't even want to go out there today to see what I need to do to recover. Of course, these are only character-building revelations to me; most of you learned these lessons long ago. Zach and Rachel alluded to them all if I had read more carefully and LISTENED.
Life's mistakes really are our best lessons.
-
Zach
- Boat Obsession Medal Finalist
- Posts: 684
- Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 6:28 pm
- Location: Beaufort, North Carolina
- Contact:
Re: Epoxy Virgin; Which West Hardener & Fabric
Bummer! Mistakes make for a faster learning curve. I lost a pony tail to overhead glass work a few years back.
With a nice pair of scissors the tabbing is pretty string free and cut Two or three layers thick at a time. You might have 1 string a foot. With a not so nice pair of scissors, or in some cases a rotary cutter that grabs one of the stitches and pulls the run out... it can be a royal pain to work with.
I use these 12 inch Wiss industrial scissors. http://bodico.com/detail.aspx?ID=821
Just promise never to use them when stuff is wet out and they'll last rolls and rolls of cloth.
Rather than just grinding off what is there you can use a metal cut off wheel on a mini grinder to cut the rounds off, pop out the foam with a putty knife or chisel and then use some 36 grit grinding discs to knock the rest down flat. Make sure that you hold the grinder flat so that the flat part of the pad is doing the work not the edge. I sand the edges of the tabbing and high places down first before getting rid of all the rest. if the edge gets caught under the tab you'll have a wildly flying grinder. Deadman switches and lower amp tools are nice for overhead work, as you can't really see behind the other side, and are over-reaching.... I use the little hitachi 40 dollar specials from Lowes. They are 6 amps, but lack the deadman switch. 10 amps you lose when they bind, 6 they drag down and you still have a hold of them.
Sanding pads don't much care for tabbing that has air voids as the paper wads up and gets torn on the edge of the void. If you have a sticky backed pad, you can get E or F weight cloth backed paper that will hold up fairly well... but the pad still pays the price if you use the outside edge and don't hold it flat.
Good luck!
Zach
With a nice pair of scissors the tabbing is pretty string free and cut Two or three layers thick at a time. You might have 1 string a foot. With a not so nice pair of scissors, or in some cases a rotary cutter that grabs one of the stitches and pulls the run out... it can be a royal pain to work with.
I use these 12 inch Wiss industrial scissors. http://bodico.com/detail.aspx?ID=821
Just promise never to use them when stuff is wet out and they'll last rolls and rolls of cloth.
Rather than just grinding off what is there you can use a metal cut off wheel on a mini grinder to cut the rounds off, pop out the foam with a putty knife or chisel and then use some 36 grit grinding discs to knock the rest down flat. Make sure that you hold the grinder flat so that the flat part of the pad is doing the work not the edge. I sand the edges of the tabbing and high places down first before getting rid of all the rest. if the edge gets caught under the tab you'll have a wildly flying grinder. Deadman switches and lower amp tools are nice for overhead work, as you can't really see behind the other side, and are over-reaching.... I use the little hitachi 40 dollar specials from Lowes. They are 6 amps, but lack the deadman switch. 10 amps you lose when they bind, 6 they drag down and you still have a hold of them.
Sanding pads don't much care for tabbing that has air voids as the paper wads up and gets torn on the edge of the void. If you have a sticky backed pad, you can get E or F weight cloth backed paper that will hold up fairly well... but the pad still pays the price if you use the outside edge and don't hold it flat.
Good luck!
Zach
1961 Pearson Triton
http://pylasteki.blogspot.com/
1942 Coast Guard Cutter - Rebuild
http://83footernoel.blogspot.com/
http://pylasteki.blogspot.com/
1942 Coast Guard Cutter - Rebuild
http://83footernoel.blogspot.com/
Re: Epoxy Virgin; Which West Hardener & Fabric
Ouch - that sounds like a nasty day. I bet you will do a lot better on round two. Hopefully you were able to clear away much of round one before it completely hardened.
1) (As you mentioned) Cloth does not behave well when it has to bridge gaps (nor does it ultimately work as well/strongly). So fillets are your friend in corners (you can sometimes cut the underlying foam or other foam to make inside-corner fillets, depending on what you are wanting the fillets to do).
2) A good way to make cloth stick to an overhead surface is this: When you wet out the overhead surface with neat epoxy, let it get tacky instead of putting the cloth up right away. This tacky epoxy will "grab" the cloth and help to keep it on the overhead. Blue tape can work as well (or boards and prop sticks, but they are easier for flat surfaces).
I hope round two goes a lot better.
Rachel
A couple of comments on the above:hriehl1 wrote: 2. Never, ever think wetted-out cloth will stay on an overhead the nice tight-fitting way you left it. I did not put down a thickened mixture for a fillet or underdeck basecoat... my bad. I thought (hoped? didn't think at all?) it would hold. 2 hours later when I returned, much had pulled free, has hardened and is near-useless. Gravity Sucks.
1) (As you mentioned) Cloth does not behave well when it has to bridge gaps (nor does it ultimately work as well/strongly). So fillets are your friend in corners (you can sometimes cut the underlying foam or other foam to make inside-corner fillets, depending on what you are wanting the fillets to do).
2) A good way to make cloth stick to an overhead surface is this: When you wet out the overhead surface with neat epoxy, let it get tacky instead of putting the cloth up right away. This tacky epoxy will "grab" the cloth and help to keep it on the overhead. Blue tape can work as well (or boards and prop sticks, but they are easier for flat surfaces).
I hope round two goes a lot better.
Rachel
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CharlieJ
- Wood Whisperer
- Posts: 649
- Joined: Fri Aug 19, 2005 7:42 pm
- Location: South coast of Texas, Matagorda Bay
Re: Epoxy Virgin; Which West Hardener & Fabric
I have one question- why WEST? It's, bar none, the most expensive epoxy on the market. MAS is cheaper as is RAKA and both are quite good. But for the last five or six years I've been buying epoxy from B and B Yacht Designs. Very good service and very competitive prices, for a really good epoxy.
I've built 6 boats now using it, plus two interior rebuilds.
It isn't shown on their website- you'll have to email or call Carla, but I'll bet you'll be pleased.
on edit-
I've been asked to add- I have worked with WEST Sys epoxy since 1976. Built 5 or 6 boats using it, including a 35 foot trimaran. Excellent epoxy and excellent tech support from the Gougeon Bros. It has simply gotten too expensive for me to keep using it, when other epoxies are so much less, and quite good..
I've built 6 boats now using it, plus two interior rebuilds.
It isn't shown on their website- you'll have to email or call Carla, but I'll bet you'll be pleased.
on edit-
I've been asked to add- I have worked with WEST Sys epoxy since 1976. Built 5 or 6 boats using it, including a 35 foot trimaran. Excellent epoxy and excellent tech support from the Gougeon Bros. It has simply gotten too expensive for me to keep using it, when other epoxies are so much less, and quite good..