Bending wood.

[Idon84]

Last year I spiled on my rub rail by scarfing together 3, - 10’ - 8” boards then laying out my pattern on the board and cutting 2 pieces, for each side, with my jig saw. This used a lot of excess material due to curve of the deck. (RubRail pic)

When I think about scarfing on my Bulwarks I pause to think about how much material I will be wasting to pick up the curve of the deck. Also with this method there doesn't seem to be an easy way to get the boards to sit tight next to each other having to cut each board independently. (I made the cover boards sit tight against the rub rail by leaving the rub rail tall and then sanding flush to hull deck joint)

Other than the cross section drawing picture below, there is nothing written as to the method of installation.

When looking at the parts list provided by the manufacture, what is called for doesn’t look like is leaving much room for the curve of the deck on their raw stock... Meaning that the boards are probably scarfed, cut and then steam bent on or...?

Would a 2.5” wide 13/16” thick 29’ long board bend to each stanchion base, which are spaced roughly at 30” apart, without steam? How does someone do this? Is spiling the only way for the DIY’er?

I plan on using the cap rail, being only 1.5” thick, this manner. That then is screwed and 5200'd onto the the 2.5” boards.

Also, as you will notice the plans call for 5200. 5200 on raw stock? Any thoughts or ideas you have on this would be greatly appreciated. I've tossed the idea around of hiring someone and got a quote for $2,500 labor + materials, but I think I can do this... maybe.

Thanks all!

[Hirilondë]

Last year I spiled on my rub rail by scarfing together 3, - 10’ - 8” boards then laying out my pattern on the board and cutting 2 pieces, for each side, with my jig saw. This used a lot of excess material due to curve of the deck.

It sure would. I think I would have scarfed the pieces together on a pattern of the curve. Then done the final shaping. I think I would use a similar method for your "bulwark". Get some door skin plywood and make a pattern. The curve of the hull can almost surely be bent to, but the curve in the deck will have to be cut/shaped to. By making a full size pattern out of plywood you can lay out the pieces to the shape and save on the scrap. Make a full size pattern, then draw the seams where each piece meets the next onto it. Now you can make each piece to the pattern.

I plan on using the cap rail, being only 1.5” thick, this manner. That then is screwed and 5200'd onto the the 2.5” boards.

Also, as you will notice the plans call for 5200. 5200 on raw stock?

I would never use 5200 to glue wood to wood where it was going to be bright. You will have a white seam. If you carefully make and fit each "layer" and install, then the next, etc, then you can epoxy them together for the installation step. Carefully make, shape, fit, drill etc. and do a complete dry fit of each piece, take apart and install with epoxy. 95% of the shaping will be to the pattern, and the last 5% in place.

90% of the work for a project like this is in the layout and shaping. It is a tedious bit of work that can only be achieved by careful, methodical, step by step procedure.

[Idon84]

Hirilondë Wrote: (how in the heck do you get your name in the quote field...?)

I think I would have scarfed the pieces together on a pattern of the curve.

I used 1/4" plywood cut into 4, 1' X 8' long strip then hot glued together to pick up the rub rail curve on the deck. I mentioned above that I scarfed first in error. I did lay out the patterns on the mahogany cut the wood then scarf. Is this what you meant by your quote above? The last pic shows the board on the 1/4" ply beneath.

So I'm onto what needs to be done and I think I can do this but unlike the rubrails I intend on buying longer (16') stock so I only have 1 scarf right where the hawse pipe block attaches near the mid cleat for extra strengh. That would mean a longer run on the board with more curve meaning I have to plan on buying a lot of extra or wider stock. you can see in the picture below just how long and curvy the board is.

Just had a though. I could install the stanchion bases, use the 1/4" ply to pick up the curve then lay out 16'
sections on the floor to get a rough idea of how wide of stock I would need to make 4, 30' boards total.

The idea of using 5200 was something I didn't think I wanted to do. I 5200'd my bobstay on before realizing why I should not have used it. I went to remove the bob stay due to an error I made and ended up damaging the underlaying laminate trying to get it off. In the end it took a toarch, several razor blades and a rubber mallet to get it off.

[Tim]

(how in the heck do you get your name in the quote field...?)

Code: Select all

[quote="Idon84"]This is what it looks like to install a quote that contains the user's name.[/quote]

The result of the above code is this:

This is what it looks like to install a quote that contains the user's name.

Or, simply use the "quote" button located at the bottom of each post (and which automatically inserts the quoted user's name) and cut out the unnecessary parts of the post, leaving only the relevant line you need for your quote.

(I think it's easier to use the simple code as presented above in most cases.)

[Idon84]

Thanks Tim! Happy B-Day... lovin watching the motor sailor. What a sweet boat with a TON of character.

[Hirilondë]

I did lay out the patterns on the mahogany cut the wood then scarf. Is this what you meant by your quote above?

I think so. By using the boards to follow the curve before cutting/shaping them to the exact curve you save on a lot of the potential waste.

So I'm onto what needs to be done and I think I can do this but unlike the rubrails I intend on buying longer (16') stock so I only have 1 scarf right where the hawse pipe block attaches near the mid cleat for extra strengh.

A good 8:1 or better scarf joint is as strong as the wood, so no need to buy longer stock. Shorter stock means less scrap to following the deck curve. Longer stock does mean less joints, and some people don't like the look of joints. It is all a matter of preference.

Just had a though. I could install the stanchion bases, use the 1/4" ply to pick up the curve then lay out 16' sections on the floor to get a rough idea of how wide of stock I would need to make 4, 30' boards total.

I have always found planning ahead, especially concerning expensive material, to be a good idea.

The idea of using 5200 was something I didn't think I wanted to do. I 5200'd my bobstay on before realizing why I should not have used it. I went to remove the bob stay due to an error I made and ended up damaging the underlaying laminate trying to get it off. In the end it took a toarch, several razor blades and a rubber mallet to get it off.

I hate 5200! Well, actually, what I hate is that it is misused way too often. It has it's places, just that there are very few of them. It's great for the joint when attaching exterior ballast to the keel. I use it to attach wooden cleats to the inside of hulls to attach settees and cabinets to after they have cured in place. I figure I can always remove the cabinet and then chisel the cleat off should I need to remove it some day.

[Idon84]

I don't mind the look of the scarfs, I'm just a little uneasy about them for no reason. The scarfs were coming apart when I bought the boat but it had set for 6 years without any TLC or varnish so it is no surprise that the scarfs were bad.

I think I'll just repeat the procedure for the rub rail paying more attention to the line where they fit together. I can always over cut and shape to size later.

Thanks again!

[Quetzalsailor]

I would have thought that those 1" x 2 1/2" vertical boards would willingly take the curve, both horizontally and vertically. That's why the drawing calls for the two boards. The cap would be less likely but might make it. The 'covering board' surely would not. You could make a quickie steam box with 2" x lumber or galvanized stove flue and insulation. Mahogany is not particularly enthusiastic about being steamed, unlike, say, Ash, Oak, or Beech, but you can gain something with the effort.

Here's a two-off steam box and one of the mahogany stringers for my FD. Simple jig which was usable for port and starboard.

It's the sister of the outboard one on port. Funny how that steamed stringer doesn't look curved in this view; I only steamed the outboard ones.