unseizing a ball valve?
unseizing a ball valve?
Does anyone have any advice on how to get a ball valve moving that has frozen up? The valve in question is to the through hull to pump the head out. Oddly enough, the head is brand spanking new, and plumbed up but the valve won't move. Actually, the valve arm looks pretty new too. I've applied penetrating oil to the parts I can see, but I'm assuming that it is the ball itself. Thanks.
agreed, a brand name and image would help a lot, but I do have one question. Did you plumb the head and did you use any kind of sealant? I once made the stupid mistake of keeping a pvc valve open while I was gluing it up. Well, needless to say it stayed open and I had to cut it out. Fun. Also on that same thought, I hope the valve didn't have a polymer-based seal for the ball, penetrating oil might eat it for lunch.
I am going to the boat this afternoon, so I will see if I can find a brand name on the valve. We bought the boat about a month ago, so I had nothing to do with the plumbing. That said, I don't know what was used. Like I said, the valve looks pretty new, but won't budge. Someone suggested pouring vegetable oil into the head, thinking that would get some lubricant to the actual ball, but that sounds like a very stupid idea. I'll see if I can find a brand.
I could not find a brand name on the valve, and it is not as new as I remembered it. It looks like the previous owner just replaced the arm. It does have a square fitting on the side that I am assuming allows you to lubricate the valve, but I didn't do anything with it, because I didn't know what to use so as not to break down the material as someone said. So would you say that vegetable oil would be advisable in this fitting? Would wd-40 also break it down? I never would have thought of that.
- Ceasar Choppy
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I think there are two commonly available ball valve seacocks: Groco or Apollo. There may be others, but you might want to check them out on the net to see a diagram of what is inside and how it works.
Are you positive it is a ball valve and not a tapered plug valve? I'm guessing your seacock is 1.5" and is a true seacock (i.e. not just a valve screwed on to the through hull).
As has been previously mentioned, on a ball valve, the ball is usually seated in some kind of plastic-- the solvents in WD-40 would probably work to break the plastic down and you may loose any seal between the plastic and the ball. Of course if you can't get it to close, the point is moot.
Have you tried to move the handle a little by gently using a BFH? (I know that sounds contradictory and I'll probably get flamed for suggesting it, but as long as you don't bust the seacock free from the hull or the TH, the worst you could do is bend the handle.... and it sounds like you'll be replacing at next haul-out anyway).
Are you positive it is a ball valve and not a tapered plug valve? I'm guessing your seacock is 1.5" and is a true seacock (i.e. not just a valve screwed on to the through hull).
As has been previously mentioned, on a ball valve, the ball is usually seated in some kind of plastic-- the solvents in WD-40 would probably work to break the plastic down and you may loose any seal between the plastic and the ball. Of course if you can't get it to close, the point is moot.
Have you tried to move the handle a little by gently using a BFH? (I know that sounds contradictory and I'll probably get flamed for suggesting it, but as long as you don't bust the seacock free from the hull or the TH, the worst you could do is bend the handle.... and it sounds like you'll be replacing at next haul-out anyway).
Thanks for the advice. I really need to get an image up. I have only owned small boats, so at every turn there is something new. I have been trying to just get the boat ready for my dad to use. He lost his 38' Easterly a few years back from a lightning strike that blew out a transducer and sunk the boat. It probably wouldn't hurt to haul out and check everything out. The facilities are there. I was just hoping to dodge that kind of thing for a while so he could get sailing again.
- Ceasar Choppy
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Here's the Groco Seacock & a maintenance sheet:
http://www.groco.net/catsvcman07.htm
Conbraco/Apollo seacocks are very similar.
A tapered plug seacock looks like this:
The tapered plug type is a different animal than than ball valve.
http://www.groco.net/catsvcman07.htm
Conbraco/Apollo seacocks are very similar.
A tapered plug seacock looks like this:
The tapered plug type is a different animal than than ball valve.
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- Master of the Arcane
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If you have a ball valve, you can see that it was assembled. Normally, you never take one apart, simply lubricate. Browse the Groco site cited above. Dissassembly should give you access to the ill-lubricated bit or remove pressure on it.
You really can break ball valves. I towed a friend home after his engine cooling seacock handle broke off in the off position; dead calm.
If you have a classic plug-style seacock, you can readily get the nuts and handle off but getting the plug out requires great finess, force and extreme gentleness, all at once. Pretty easy to mush the threads and make scrap of it. Once apart, clean and lap the plug and taper, clean and lubricate, reassemble, and never let it corrode again.
You really can break ball valves. I towed a friend home after his engine cooling seacock handle broke off in the off position; dead calm.
If you have a classic plug-style seacock, you can readily get the nuts and handle off but getting the plug out requires great finess, force and extreme gentleness, all at once. Pretty easy to mush the threads and make scrap of it. Once apart, clean and lap the plug and taper, clean and lubricate, reassemble, and never let it corrode again.
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Clearly, no kids!
See Babies and Colds These things are more commonly called Bulb Syringes, but I prefer Baby Nose Sucker, myself.
See Babies and Colds These things are more commonly called Bulb Syringes, but I prefer Baby Nose Sucker, myself.
Nathan
dasein668.com
dasein668.com
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