Strong track on Al mast help needed.

[dkall]

I'm ready to install the Strong track on the mast and the Strong people :) at the show said to use #10 PH SS sheet metal screws. (I'm using the clips as my track was external). Are those stronger than 10-24's? I don't mind taping the mast but don't like the idea of just driving in the PH's. Also what size pilot hole would I use in an Al mast for the sheet metal screws? Is there a tap for sheet metal screws?

Using sheet metal screw on the mast is a little new to me. Never used them before and I don't want to break off any heads or create any problems where there were none.

Thanks.

[The Good Goose]

Dave
I used sheet metal screws on my track and wasn't all that happy with them. you can tap aluminum really fast. chuck the tap in your drill at low speed and after the correct size pilot hole is drilled it is really fast. talk with your manufacturer and see if machine screws would work as well.
I coated all my fastenings with caulk. Some use loctite. You definately want to use something or otherwise the aluminum corrodes onto the stainless and you can't remove a screw. I ran a piece of white electrical tape on the back of the track to isolate it from the mast. I don't know if this is neccessary but it can't hurt.

Using the tap in the drill was the biggest time saver. I bet I tapped 50 holes in under a hour.

Brock Richardson

[jollyboat]

Hi Dave Brian here. OK here is the deal. Sheet metal screws are not the way you want to go. As Don Casey mentions in his book THIS OLD BOAT "sheet metal screws are for sheet metal not sailboat masts" Now I do not want to say that what Strong told you is wrong as this is all subject to great debate. (On a side note the Strong Track system is one of the best upgrade/aftermarket mast systems around so you are going in the right dirrection.) If you are going to screw the track to your mast drill and tap the wholes with the equiv. machine screws of what you were going to use in the self tappers. This is all very straight forward stuff - if you have not done it before you will have it down pat within a few screws.
Most screws come with some sort of guide as what size pilot whole to use but if not a good gauge is it hold the drill bit behind the screw threads, if you can just see the threads and none of the "root" then this is good for wood, sheetmetal and alum. for fiberglass you should go a size up from this in the drill size as fiberglass does not like to compress. Hope this helps - Good Sailing

[Figment]

Ya gotta ask yourself.... is your mast made of sheet metal?

As the son of an HVAC guy, I've done my share of work with sheetmetal screws. This is not the place I'd use them. To me, this seems like the Strong people are shooting for a good score in the "ease of installation" category by providing a self-tapping fastener.

In your place, I'd tap for 10-32 (better than 10-24 in such a thin-wall application I think) screws and have better peace of mind.

[Figment]

wow, three of us posting on top of each other in less than 2 minutes. that's gotta be a record around here.

and we actually agreed!

[jollyboat]

Yeah Dave - Good Goose is right on - the track is nylon however so if would like to skip the electrical tape option you can - no harm either way.
You are going to love the strong system! I don't have one on my boat yet but I sell them!

[Figment]

Whole other topic here, but I prefer to size the pilot bit to the tap, not to the screw. In aluminum, which is soft and cuts easily, I tend to undersize the pilot bit* just a smidge to ensure that I get the most thread-depth possible. Let the tap cut the final diameter of the hole.

*even when I'm using a tap set that comes with matched-size pilot bits.

[jollyboat]

Figment you are right on with that. Alum is easy tap but all rules should be paid attentioned to.

[jollyboat]

Do you think Dave is in shock right now? We really hammered home the the machine screw issue.

[dkall]

I was leaning towards machine screws and then the strong people sent me for a little loop.

I'll more than likely use 10-24. Even though my mast section is 0.250 " + a little I've had some experience of the fine thread not working well. It's easy to get a little sloppy in the taping and then the bolt doesn't want to hold well.

I kind of like a deeper thread and with the mast section of mine I'll have 4 -5 full threads in there with some meat to hold to.

I haven't use a drill to thread anything to. That kind of scares me. Was taught by a T & D maker to turn a little and back up a little to let out any of the cuttings. Kindof hard to do that with a drill. So I'll probably go a little slower and do them by hand. Can't take more than a couple of hours anyway.

Do appreciate all the feedback. You guys have helped set my mind at ease.

[Figment]

heh. I actually had a toolmaker scoff over my shoulder once when he saw me backing off the tap to clear the cut after each half-turn. "in a hard metal it's the right thing to do, but if you're only tapping aluminum it's a waste of time, just spin it in."

(once he was ten yards away I started the backing-off again)

[dasein668]

heh. I actually had a toolmaker scoff over my shoulder once when he saw me backing off the tap to clear the cut after each half-turn. "in a hard metal it's the right thing to do, but if you're only tapping aluminum it's a waste of time, just spin it in."

(once he was ten yards away I started the backing-off again)

He's not wrong, really. I tapped about 40 feet worth of holes in a mast (which was stepped, a real treat lemme tell ya) with the tap in a drill(!) A little lanolin on the tap and spin 'er right in. Used two taps for about 160 holes. And the one I broke was because I lost my grip on the mast with my legs while drilling due to a boat wake.

[Tim]

I'm ready to install the Strong track on the mast and the Strong people :) at the show said to use #10 PH SS sheet metal screws. (I'm using the clips as my track was external). Are those stronger than 10-24's? I don't mind taping the mast but don't like the idea of just driving in the PH's. Also what size pilot hole would I use in an Al mast for the sheet metal screws? Is there a tap for sheet metal screws?

Using sheet metal screw on the mast is a little new to me. Never used them before and I don't want to break off any heads or create any problems where there were none.

Thanks.

How many screws are required for your Strong track? My Strong track, which is also installed over an existing external track, only required one screw (at the bottom), since the track slides over the existing track. I guess I'm not familiar with the clips you're speaking of. Strong Track Installation

The track came with a self-tapping screw, but I drilled and tapped for a machine screw, which is a far better choice, as you suspected. Regardless of how many screws you need, I would certainly go with tapped holes and machine screws.

[JonnyBoats]

I realise this is slightly off-topic, but does anyone have an opinion on the relative merits of the Strong track ve Harken's Battcar track?

[Tim]

I don't know, but here are two thoughts:

1. The Strong track is outstanding

2. I bet the Harken system costs a lot more

[jollyboat]

I know for a fact that the strong track is less expensive than the Harken system. It is also lighter and less difficult to install than many (read that most) track systems. It is also one of the best systems in regard to bending and unbending the sail from the spars. There are no jointed or moving parts on the slides leaving less it less prone to failure and the Tides Marine batten recepticals are some of the best on the market - period. ( in my opinion )