Plastic Classic Forum

I'm still mulling this over and haven't researched tanks or connections or anything yet. Maybe it could be stored it in one of the lockers or the lazaret or under the cockpit sole where my tank is now. Perhaps a shelf could be built that could slide forward to gain access to the portable tank throu...

ABYC H-33 does not preclude the use of a portable tank for diesel fuel, and in any event ABYC H-33 is not a "required" standard in that it is not incorporated by reference into any legally-encorceable set of code requirements. Diesel fuel, being less volatile than gasoline, does not fall u...

And now for a real answer. I put mine up in the top outside corners of the bulkheads in the saloon. If I were doing it again, I'd choose the same location, but would use a small surface-mount cube speaker instead of the "flush" ones. Actually, truth be told I don't know if I'll install a s...

Right next to the compass is always good. ;<p

Click here for a description of compatibility testing procedures from the Awl-Grip website. The basic process applies to all paint systems.

When in doubt, remove the old paint. A good paint job is all about the prep and substrate.

I think I've seen that boat. Was she local to northern NE?

Here's one example. You can just see the bottom edge of the bronze raw water strainer at the top left of the photo. The salt water supply to the galley sink leads aft from the tee fitting. (The hose running through the bulkhead is an icebox drain and unrelated to this post.) http://www.lackeysailing...

Okay, I'm not Tim, but I think he means not that adding a "tee" is a detriment to clogs in and of itself; but rather that - assuming you are adding one - that adding it "after" the raw water strainer as opposed to "before" the raw-water strainer means that it won't be ...

Add a tee fitting to your engine raw water intake line somewhere downstream of the raw water strainer. This avoids the need for another through hull, if that's keeping you up nights (and a dedicated intake in this instance is probably unnecessary anyway, given the size and probable layout of your bo...

I don't seal mine since I remove them each year for maintenance.

No problem with the bend. If you need to, build a little jig using a scissor jack or whatever you have to press the new coamings into position (one at a time). This was the first one I used, improvised with the jack from my truck. http://www.triton381.com/images/installcoamings1.jpg This dedicated c...

Ice ice baby...

If you keep up that sort of "praise" I will have to stop. I hate Dr. Phil.

2 recore answers: 1. It depends on the size of the area. A small void, intended just to isolate the CP slots from the core material a small distance away from the slot, could be filled only with thickened epoxy, but a larger area would best be laminated from solid glass. If you are thinking of omitt...

Is that one of those pumps that has some fancy-dancy electronic switch that senses the water, rather than a good old-fashioned float switch? I dislike that sort of pump/switch because I've found the electronic do-dads to be unreliable, particularly at shutting down. I replaced a brand-new one in my ...

LPU is immune to paint thinner or related solvents. Even acetone is fine, used with care.

I think you need to prioritize your actual goals for this potential job. What really is the goal? Aesthetics? Strength? Minimizing time and cost? One can never have everything in one package. Decide what's the most important thing, and proceed towards that goal. Perhaps it won't take you where you t...

The hard truth isn't always pretty.

When it feels cured, it's fine for overcoating with varnish. How long it takes to get there will depend on ambient conditions. Polysulfide can take quite a long time to become tack-free and cured. If you're getting impatient, mist it with water to accelerate the cure. I find that it takes 2 weeks or...

Correct me if I am wrong but what's wrong with using good old fashioned butyl? Or dolifinite? These materials will not care about silicone (I think, I could be wrong). Butyl and Dolfinite are both excellent materials, but I'd still not apply either over a lingering residue of silicone. Rebedding is...

When will people learn that silicone is pure evil. All I can do is keep chanting and hope it somehow catches on with the unwashed masses of the boating world who may not read this forum and therefore haven't yet been informed. Careful use of a sharp carbide scraper is reasonably effective at removin...

Primers rarely level as well as topcoats, but if you have bad brush marks you may not have added sufficient reducer. In any event, you need to sand your primer completely flat if you want your topcoat to have a chance of being flat and level. If you go through the primer in many places during this p...

There are three likely possible causes: insufficient substrate preparation, insufficient cure before overtaping, or paint that isn't much good.

I believe Morris Yacht and Tayana and maybe some other builders have used that approach. Sure, those look great, but there are numerous details to the installation and construction that won't work on the awful port cutouts I've seen on every Triton that I've had the pleasure of being on. Morris and...

Chris Campbell wrote: ...Maine being practically Canadian!...

And here I was, thinking Canada was almost Maine... ;<)

Blocks of ice are heavy and tend to slip (ice being slippery and all) and fall into the icebox. Fiberglass protects the box from the inevitable impacts.

I like to ensure the core is thoroughly bonded before applying the new top laminate. To this end, I prefer to leave the core clamped/weighted overnight to allow the epoxy to cure sufficiently. Epoxy doesn't reach full adhesive strength for many hours. Core needs to be well bonded, or else one runs t...

With gasoline, any item needs to be ignition protected. Most automotive-type pumps, etc. are not. For diesel, this is not the issue it is with gas, and ignition protection requirements/standards don't apply to diesel-powered boats. Ensure that any item installed in a fuel system meets the basic stan...

This cheeky stove, eager to please as he may be, is clearly in denial of his decrepit surroundings.

H&H is a joke. I have abandoned them forever for reasons that I've documented elsewhere in detail. I've now used Hamilton for shafting with good results; they'll fit and face your coupling with the shaft if you provide the coupling. Pricing is fair and the turnaround was quick. NE prop is anothe...

Do you have to sand the bottom by chance? That would be a good place to learn the feel of your sander before attacking the topsides. DA sanders are powerful tools and can cause damage it misused. It's all about experience, so start with less visible areas and feel your way along and learn how the to...

No, it would not be dumb not to apply barrier coat. I wouldn't. I think they're hooey.

Ouch!

Your best bet as "level" reference points will be the waterline mark (probably a factory scribe) at the stem and centerline of the aft waterplane. If you level the boat based on these two points, you can then determine what, if anything, in the inside of the boat can serve as your level ba...

I believe someone took an Alden Challenger like Tom's across the Atlantic not to long ago. I think the boat was named Fleana. I recall they did some refitting but I do not recall what they did. http://www.fleana.com/ She's a beautiful boat. I'm honored to share Buck's Harbor with her. http://www.la...

Props are on a tapered shaft, jammed on by design by the nuts.

You need a puller to remove a prop. Don't use a hammer.

Looks like you have gaff-headed mainsail that doesn't belong with your boat.

Thanks to everyone for the comments.

The reasoning behind the rudderpost extension is well explained somewhere back in the logs from last September. Rather than rehash it here, here's a link.

Seeing what you're seeing (i.e. pictures) would help determine if a problem exists.

Those external bearing housings are usually just bedded and screwed (or lagged) into the deadwood from outside. Removal ought to be straightforward, but I don't know the ins and outs of your particular boat. I remember your coupling from some questions you posted last year, and agree that you should...

I've increased the number of attachments in a single post to 10 from 3.

Individual maximum file size for each attachment remains at 256K (per photo).

Thank you for the link!

Page 6 of Professional Boatbuilder , number 124, April/May 2010, features an interesting letter refuting the claims put forth by the manufacturer of one the epoxy products mentioned in the first post of this thread, "EcoPoxy". I will leave it to the reader to draw their own conclusions reg...

I didn't remove the rail, but I had the stock rubrail.

The Ensign I had (1447) had a head mounted beneath that cutout in the berth when I bought the boat. I don't know class rules, but have trouble imagining that it'd be a problem to create a full-length berth in its stead. I think the head was probably a factory option, and not even installed on many (...

I love my hot glue gun--it's absolutely invaluable to me. I've been using one for 20 years, and I am sure I'd figure out how to proceed without one, but to me it sure makes life easier. Usage varies, but typically I'd omit the "real" adhesive from a couple strategic spots on whatever I was...

Here's one.

All part of my evil plan...

It's easy. Start by fastening one end securely, then bend a little and add about every 3rd or 4th fastener as you go. The track takes most typical curves with ease using this method.

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