Plastic Classic Forum

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I didn't want to rain on your brand new parade because I really do like your new system (the volt and ammeter are GORGEOUS!!), but now that Tony has broken the dam... that SeaDog swich panel is total crap. I never had a problem with the switches, but those infuriating fuse holder caps have a 60/40 c...

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"wire it directly to house battery" vs. what? A fuse or breaker is mandatory. I'd connect it downstream of my ammeter, just because I'm a nerd and don't like un-tracked loads. I don't think it's necessary to have a cutoff switch, but again I'm a nerd and I like to know that NOTHING is draw...

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Figment: I’m with you on the “The traditional bridle method” or possibly just a topping lift on the outboard end? So what do you think…a 1/8”-3/16” piece of line or a small diameter coated piece of 7x19…like life line material to tie the two triggers together?? Having an "outboard end" of...

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I rarely use the reef cringles, and never EVER tie them around the boom, only to gather the reefed sail to itself.

The only time I ever bother with them is when sailing in heavy rain or spray. That pocket of sailcloth can hold a LOT of water weight in a really unhelpful place.

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NICE project. The birdsmouth section is stronger than the square upon which that table is based. I think your scantlings are fine, particularly if you do NOT rig the pole as shown in that "spin.gif" image. That "rings lashed to the pole" method is very tidy and convenient for the...

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Great. Now I need to go find a nice hollow miter-cut 130.

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Nick and Abby?

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She looks SO much bigger than 30'. Must be the depth of cockpit.

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Bottom paint only.

unless you count "barrier coat" as primer.

I'll get my coat....

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That's a Walker Bay. It just has to be a Walker Bay.

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The outhaul. A bowline is fine. Typically it goes from the end of the boom, to a turning block on the clew then to a turning block on the boom then forward to a winch or a cleat. Without some mechanical advantage you will never get enough teniion if you have to adjust it tighter in a blow. On a boa...

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I love tales of money well spent.

That cabintop winch with the 3-strand line.... what does that control?
I had a 3-strand dacron halyard for a while but quickly shifted it to mainsheet duty. Way too much stretch for a halyard.

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Dammit, now that I've gone and said that, it's nagging me.
"Cabin Sole" just made The List for 2011.

For attachment, I like the hot glue idea. Anything flexible and nonpermanent.

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Don't think, just drill. We're all leery of putting holes in our boat at first. You'll quickly get over this. Instead of a little deck plate, why not install a 12x12 or 12x18 hatch? In addition to actually making the through-hull installation easy, you'd have the ability to stow (lightweight) gear. ...

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Fleet of (4) Illusion Mini-12 meter boats for sale on Ebay

I LOVE THESE!!!!!

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Well my cabin sole is rotting plywood covered in nonskid-painted fiberglass with several different colors of paint and epoxy dribblings.

The cabin sole in the photo, I don't know. It's just a photo I came across on facebook.

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Isn't that just a sweet little detail?

Just thought I'd share.

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Paint a funky fat cove stripe.

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the Pequot! Branford to Fisher's is a moderate day's sail. The return trip is usually a long day against the summer southwesterly. I have a loose plan/thought to bring the boat down there 4th of july weekend or the one after, and then leave it on JollyMon mooring for a couple of weekends in which ot...

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or buy some 1/4" G10, cut to fit, goo in place, proceed with a lot less laminating and subsequent fairing work.

S&S 35???? We need pics!

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I've seen powerwashers blast chunks of mortar out of a stone wall, and blast the sand face off bricks. Yes it can hurt the gelcoat if the gelcoat is crazed or cracked or loose, but (one might assume that) you are NOT a blind orangutan, so you'll probably back the spray head off an inch or two if you...

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Without the Spring OS, when shall I collect said Mudslide?? All's well that ends well. Replacement engine obtained, rehabbed, and installed on launch day. A bit of tuning here and there, today was the first real run. Apart from some shaft vibration (the late-model A4 sits a good 3/8" higher tha...

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I think this might be the year I install an actual stereo in the boat. Getting tired of hearing the ipod-external-speakers thingy smash to the cabin sole while riding a big wake. Where does everyone have their speakers? High on the forward bulkhead of the "salon"? Kinda tough to find a pla...

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Depends on the marina. Is it a boatyard or a resort?
I've been places where it was odd to NOT hear someone running a sander or a drill.
I've been places where everyone gathers on the docks sipping daquiris in beach chairs while the kids run around with Super-Soakers.
Spend your goodwill wisely.

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West marine has a paint shaker?

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Don't use it for a fillet. It will collect dust and other grime from the air for WEEKS and look like hell. Mask well for ease of cleanup and leave the least possible amount showing. The elastic properties of the material really obviate the need for a fillet anyway. It's not going to fail by cracking...

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A name once proposed yet thankfully never employed: A Lackey of Judgement :D

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That tee will also be a handy place to introduce antifreeze solution to your system come winterization time.

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Hard to tell from the photos, but are the missing chunks greater than 3/16" in any direction? If not, then do nothing. You'll want to chamfer out about that much as a sealant bed anyway. If so, then still don't do much. Clean up the chunked-out area with a chisel or something, reinsert the chai...

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Yes, but after time in service with a coating of loc-tite, you need only break the fairly predictable bond of the loc-tite, which has probably done a fair job of preventing the completely unpredictable bond of corrosion and/or galling of the threads.

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hmmm.... saran wrap would allow easier remover of the whatever upon completion. Nice idea.

Bear in mind that you don't want the hole to be precisely the size of the chainplate, you need some room for sealant, so a bit of thickness built up by a dozen wraps of plastic would be a good thing.

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I dunno about "consensus", but my own personal practice with such things is to either use never-sieze, or to use loc-tite. One or the other. If it's the kind of thing you're going to undo periodically (more than once every few years), I'd go with never-sieze. I know a lot of people are lee...

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strips of HDPE or similar plastic, cut to the same size as your chainplates and clamped in place, make great avatars for the real thing to keep the slots in place and open during this process, eliminating the need to recut the slots later (which can be a pain) and leaving you with nice neat opening...

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410 is the "microlight"???

That stuff is SOFT. (yes, I know you know that)
I'd use it for pinhole-filling only, not for bulk fairing.

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Hmmmm. Actually it looks like a fine restoration candidate to me. It doesn't report that she was holed. The rig and the interior are probably fine. The keelbolts are worth inspecting, but really I'd be surprised if they were compromised. That hull work is ugly as the day is long, but in many ways th...

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Dwyer Mast Tangs.

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Removal: A blowtorch and a pipe wrench.

Replacement will be the product of a whole-system selection you'll make much much farther down the road.

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It is a shame though because I was just perusing an old calculus textbook last night ( anyone feel the need to comment?) and was in the mood for some no nonsense, left brain, clear logic, straightforward answer to a question. Mike, I take rain checks. Just for you, Britton! (King of the Dredge!!!!!)

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Don't go poking holes in the mast for something that can so easily be properly addressed next time the mast comes down.

For now, ballast the boat to induce a bit of a list to one side.

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I'll jump in here so Tim doesn't need to soil himself on the A4. The gate valve is the one in the bottom left of the photo with the blue enameled wheel. This is your cooling water inlet. This hose leads aft to the engine's water pump (dismount this to change the impeller. really.) The water then cou...

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Interesting setup for the mast step too. Nice way to keep things dry and a handy attachment point for the vang. I disagree. Stretching the vang attachment aft means that it will flatten the sail more as the boom swings out. Just like the mainsheet. (so why have a vang?) Particularly odd since I can...

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Are you still running the Atomic 4? Be aware that it is a challenge to cable-operate the transmission lever on that engine, since it was designed for mechanical activation. Tim is being polite. I'm less so. The A4 came with a big clunky shift lever for a reason. The elegantly simple gearbox is a fu...

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hmmm. All I read is "The winch must be mounted such that the loose sheet falls correctly into a secure stowage position". A perfectly nonspecific punt of an instruction which roughly translates to "mount it however you like, but don't come crying to us if you foul it all up because yo...

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sail_fix wrote: BTW, I have some photos of our installation from '02 on another forum if you want the link.

Yes, please.

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I'm quite confused.

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well yeah, but what kind of mahogany?

Like asking what's for dinner and being told "meat". :D

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What is that smoky green hull to windward?

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full disclosure... I was on a charter called "Pro-Fish-In-Sea" at the time.

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Having trouble getting the pic off the camera(phone), but spotted in FL last week: Wasted Seaman

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Those wind-driven vents are fine for a shrinkwrapped boat, but a shrinkwrapped boat doesn't have the ground moisture source that the shed has. I'd install those 2x2 vents right away. Devise some sort of closure for them for the times when you want to hold heat, but the default situation needs to be ...

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